Cabernet Sauvignon, a small and thick-skinned grape, packs quite a punch in Napa Valley wines.   As discussed earlier this week, depending on the fruit’s origin, the components found in the wine can vary greatly allowing Napa Valley to produce a collection of Cabernet Sauvignon wines boasting unique characteristics.   Some areas produce grapes with cherry flavors, others contribute dark berry fruit and some set forth a dusty component.  If a Cabernet Sauvignon wine is made with only grapes from a specific hill or officially designated American Viticulture Area (“AVA”), the wine’s label will specifically refer to that AVA.  If more than one AVA or hill is combined, then the wine is referred to as a “Napa Valley” Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Is one AVA better than another or is the quality of a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon a lesser wine?   That would be arguable by the individual palate.    However, when grapes from these diverse AVAs in Napa Valley are combined, it produces a wine with the unique capability of painting a geographical picture on the palate setting forth diverse layers of flavors and nuances.   

Given the regional diversity of the fruit contributed to a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, the resulting wine easily translates into a red wine lover’s delight.   Looking for the proper balance in representing the different AVA’s, Artesa Vineyards and Winery (“Artesa”) offers a wonderful example of a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

Artesa’s Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve consists of fruit from Atlas Peak and Oakville, among other areas.   Because of this combination, the nose and the palate is met by the spice of anise and a cornucopia of different berries:   raspberry, blackberry, blueberry and a surprise dash of cranberry in the finish.   Taking on aspects of the soils were the grapes are grown, the wine’s bouquet demonstrates a hint of tobacco while also showing off the presence of oak barreling with warm aromas of cedar. 

On the palate, the wine itself is smooth, light-bodied, easy drinking, yet rich due to the elements contributed from the different regions of the valley.   Rich romantic blackberry reminds one how daring and challenging that berry can be.   Rich spice, herb components, berry juice and yet balanced tannins so that the wine is very accessible with little decanting required or cellaring.  This is what I would refer to a “drinkable cab” meaning that you could have it today or five (5) years from now.  It is easy going and for those nights where one is not feeling as culinary adventurous, this wine readily qualifies in my book as a “good cheeseburger” wine.  

Pairing food with Cabernet Sauvignon generally requires dishes loaded with protein and fatty components to combat high alcohol content and tannins.    As silly or mortifying as a “cheeseburger” may sound, it does represent many of the simple elements required for a successful food pairing with Cabernet Sauvignon:   cheese, beef, bread, and fat content.   However, when you do discover a Cabernet Sauvignon such as Artesa’s Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, the wine’s accessibility allows you more latitude with food pairings and the opportunity to be creative.   To demonstrate, this week’s menu offers:

1)      Almond-Crusted Grilled Pork Chop With Blackberry-Blueberry Sauce; and

2)     Herbed Wild Rice With Cranberries and Sautéed Sweet Onions.

While Cabernet Sauvignon generally pairs brilliantly with beef, Artesa’s Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve can pair with other dishes because its tannins are balanced.   Creating an Almond Crusted Grilled Pork Chop with Blackberry-Blueberry Sauce presents an entrée that is specifically tailored to accentuate the nuances found in the wine.   Because the pork chop dons an almond crust and a blackberry-blueberry sauce, it has dressed for the occasion and this cabernet sauvignon does not overwhelm.   These additional elements give the pork chop more strength to stand up to the otherwise powerful cabernet sauvignon grape.    The almonds help work to continue to clear the palate from any tannin in the wine and the blackberry-blueberry sauce mirrors the fruit found in the wine.   Putting the pork chop on a charcoal grill also creates char, plumping it with a savory flavor of smoke which ties the nose back to the tobacco notes found in the wine.   

Starches generally have trouble pairing with tannic Cabernet Sauvignon wines.   Picking a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon which emphasizes the fruit in the wine, more than its tannic components, will not overpower a well-planned starch dish.   Wild grain rice pairs nicely and represents an earthiness typically found in Cabernet Sauvignon.  The cranberries are intentional to mirror the finish of the wine and similarly they help to cleanse the palate and start the tasting process over again with the next sip of wine.  

Cabernet Sauvignons tend to warm the soul.  When they represent fruit from several different AVAs, they offer layers of complexity with its diverse flavors and spices and take the palate on a tour of Napa Valley.   

Why is it that Cabernet Sauvignon wine in Napa Valley can taste so different?    Where the grapes are planted influences wine greatly.   It is often said that “location” is everything and that is particularly true with wine.   In Napa Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon is king due to its ease of growth and adaptability to the region’s geography, which consists of hills receiving moist fog or marine air, dusty warm valleys and western and eastern mountains of varying height.    Cabernet Sauvignon is a small grape which can be known for intense flavors and is a great grape to use as an example to show how soil and climate can influence its flavor.     The following is a discussion of the main geographic hot spots for Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa Valley:

1) Mt. Veeder:   Located at the southern end of Napa Valley and at the start of the valley’s western Mayacamas Mountain Range has a cool and moderate climate.  Many vineyards are above the fog line, however, Mt. Veeder is close to the neighboring cool Carneros region of Napa Valley and can easily have first pick of the cool marine air that frequents the region.   Its soil is unique to any other area discussed here as it is not volcanic but instead known for oceanic qualities which include sand and loam.    The sandy quality of the soil encourages drainage so Cabernet Sauvignon does grow here with berry and earthy flavors and firm tannins.  Hess Collection has a Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon and at the base of Mt. Veeder, Hendry Ranch similarly offers a Cabernet Sauvignon (although it is grown on a bench land, as opposed to a mountain-side vineyard).

2) Spring Mountain District:  Located in St. Helena, Spring Mountain is known for its cooler temperatures and high elevation.    Both of these characteristics promote acidity.    The soil itself is composed of sandstone and is loamy exhibiting good drainage.   Cabernet Sauvignons hailing from this region will often exhibit dark fruit flavors with very present tannins and herbaceous qualities that remind the connoisseur of the forest floors.   Terra Valentine and Robert Keenan Winery both produce notable Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignons.

3) Atlas Peak:   Located at the southern end of Napa Valley on the eastern Vaca Range, Atlas Peak is cooler than Napa Valley’s floor in the summer.    It is alleged that here summer temperatures rarely reach above 90 degrees.    Its altitude is high enough that the grapes grown here are typically above the fog line.   The soil itself is shallow and volcanic in origin.   The fruit itself is known for more acidity, which lends age ability to any Cabernet Sauvignon produced from this region.   Characterized by bright cherry flavors, if made well, this wine can be a true treat.    Girard Winery has an Atlas Peak Cabernet Sauvignon which is showing potential but with time will be a fun Cabernet Sauvignon to watch.   Ready and accessible now is Sequoia Grove’s elegant 2005 Stagecoach Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon.  

4) Rutherford Bench:    Sitting in the middle of Napa Valley, just north of Oakville and south of Zinfandel Lane, is the famed Rutherford Bench.    Given its location in the valley, the soil is often described as well-drained and loamy.  The soil also has immediate access to layers of river deposit and volcanic soil.   As winds come from the West, the dust of the Mayacamas Range is brought down to the Rutherford Bench and rumored to settle into the top soil where the vines are planted.    Whether this is the true contributor or not, any Cabernet Sauvignon made from Rutherford Bench fruit will often exhibit a certain dusty factor that is readily recognizable.   While difficult to precisely describe, it is most often noted as a certain dusty mocha taste in the wine, accompanying traditional berry and spice components.   Tannins are present in these cabernet sauvignons, however, if made well they will be in balance yet providing structure to the body of the wine.   While there are many notable producers of Rutherford Bench Cabernet Sauvignons, wines to explore include Elyse’s Morisoli Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon and Sequoia Grove’s Rutherford Bench Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.  

5) Pritchard Hill:   Looking down upon Lake Hennessey and characterized by rocky eastern slopes in Napa Valley, Pritchard Hill is not an officially recognized American Viticulture Area (“AVA”) but that does not deter the quality and reputation of Cabernet Sauvignon which is produced from the grapes grown here.  The grapes are commonly recognized for intensity which is attributed to Pritchard Hill’s steep slopes and volcanic soil.   Typically found on the palate will be blackberry, black cherry, currant, dark chocolate, and other spices.    While famously known for Chappellet’s Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignons, Girard Winery also produces an award-winning wine “Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon” (which the 2005 vintage notably received a rating of 90+ points from The Wine Spectator and Robert Parker).

6) Stag’s Leap:  On the eastern side of the valley, slightly south of Yountville and at the foot of the Vaca Mountain Range, is famous for historic wine and the Cabernet Sauvignon wines produced from this area are known for lesser, softer tannins.   The area itself is warm but receives afternoon marine winds to cool down the region.  Its soil is characteristic of that of the valley floor, consisting of both volcanic and a gravel loam.   The hillsides in this area are said to not be as fertile as bedrock can be found as easily as two feet beneath the soil to six feet below.   Cabernet Sauvignons in this region tend to have not only softer tannins, but are recognized for red berry fruit (such as raspberry) and cherry notes.  Stag’s Leap Winery is famous for their Cabernet Sauvignon from this region.    

7) Diamond Mountain:  Located just north of St. Helena and south of Calistoga, sits Diamond Mountain on the western Mayacamas Range.    Benefiting from the warmth due to its proximity to Calistoga, when combined with its altitude Diamond Mountain still has cooler temperatures than the valley floor.   Its soil is fine and of volcanic origin, yet yields other sediments.  Cabernet Sauvignon wine from this mountain tends to be rich with strong black fruit flavors, cedar notes, spice and solid structure.   Notable Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignons can be found at Schramsberg Vineyard, Girard Winery, and Laird Family Estate.

8 ) Howell Mountain:  Towering above the eastern side of Napa Valley near St. Helena, Howell Mountain is powerful in its presence and the wine produced from its grapes is equally as powerful.   While its climate is similar to that of St. Helena’s other mountains, it does tend to be warmer as it faces west.  The soil is volcanic but shallow and with good drainage.    Cabernet Sauvignon from Howell Mountain will represent blackberry and currant flavors, with spices evidencing the volcanic soil and big tannins to provide a powerful structure.    These Cabernet Sauvignons are not for the faint-hearted.    Goosecross Cellars traditionally offers a Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon which begs for dark chocolate but, for the true cab-lover, Bremer Family Winery makes a captivating powerful Cabernet Sauvignon from their estate Howell Mountain fruit.

9) “Napa Valley” Cabernet Sauvignon:   A bottle of cabernet sauvignon labeled as “Napa Valley” is not indicating that it is merely from Napa Valley.   Instead, the labeling is to indicate that the Cabernet Sauvignon in question is a blend of cabernet grapes from various vineyards throughout Napa Valley.   A Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, which is truly going to showcase the best that the valley has to offer, will be a collection of grapes which come from many of the areas described above so that the discerning palate can note a hint of mocha dust, bright blackberry fruit, cherry notes, leather, among others and the slight presence of tannins to provide structure to the wine yet miraculously allow it to be readily accessible (meaning that it does not require much cellaring or aging).   Some favorites include Sequoia Grove’s 2005 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Alpha Omega’s 2006 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, and Artesa’s 2005 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve.   

In conclusion, it is easy to understand why Cabernet Sauvignons can vary in Napa Valley.   Each weekly wine and food pairing article on this web site starting this week and for the next several weeks will feature a different Cabernet Sauvignon from some of the areas listed above.   The food pairing will be tailored in an attempt to coax out some of the nuances that are found in the wine due to its geographical location.   As temperatures start to drop this autumn, it is the perfect time to start dusting off warming cabernet sauvignons from the wine cellar.  

*Do you have a favorite Cabernet Sauvignon from one of the regions listed above?    Join the Fan Page for “The Casual Connoisseur” on Facebook and post a comment to share yours and why.   Cheers!

Yes!   A thousand resounding times, “Yes!   Red wine and Fish!”   Typically when you are sitting in a restaurant and you ask your server for suggestions about what wine to pair with what food, the drill is simple:  (i) white wine with fish and chicken and (ii) red wine with meat and pork.   While this is generally true, for the more adventurous taste buds, certain fish can pair marvelously well with certain red wines.

Red wine generally pairs well with beef because a heavier meal like beef manages to offset the tannins (which generally overwhelm the palate) found in most red wines.   That being said, not all red wines are alike and some red wines are lighter, more delicate in style:   one, by example, is Pinot Noir.  

Pinot Noir, which was discussed earlier this year in my article titled, “Romancing the Senses:  Pinot Noir”, if made properly, is a lighter, dry red wine that shows the palate a variety of nuances akin to delicate layers peeling back.   Because it is lighter in consistency, it can pair well with some of the fattier fishes such as salmon.  

Naturally when attempting to pair Salmon properly with a Pinot Noir, the attributes of the very wine selected must be taken into close consideration.

Elyse Winery (“Elyse”) presently offers a Pinot Noir that sets forth lots of black cherry, a tease of red raspberry, a hint of anise and the faint aroma of smoke on the nose.   The palate is met by juicy black cherry, followed by a warm dash of black licorice and a spiced finish which drifts off the back of the palate into the horizon of an autumn evening.   Regardless of where you might find yourself, this Pinot Noir warms you and presently is showing well.  It evidences light layers of flavor which can be delicately peeled back to reveal a semi-complex wine which changes slightly with its attitude as it opens throughout the evening.

Given the wine’s light layers, dry nature and slight acidity, it is primed for pairing with salmon.  Salmon is a heavier fish known for its fatty consistency.  In order to offset this fatty consistency, a wine that has some acidity should be paired.   While the mind again might immediately leap to certain white wines, Pinot Noir with its light dry style and mild acidity fits into this category.    When preparing the salmon, knowing that acidity is permissible, this opens the cook to an array of choices.    Certainly citrus would be an easy choice if white wine were paired, however, given that Pinot Noir will grace the table, tomatoes should be considered.

Taking these elements into consideration, this week’s menu hosts:

1)      Grilled Salmon With Red Wine Heirloom Cherry Tomato Sauce; and

2)     Roasted Fennel Atop Sautéed Spinach with Garlic.

How you elect to prepare your piece of salmon will also determine whether it is compatible with a red wine, such as Pinot Noir.   Putting the salmon on a grill, for example, will create a certain degree of char which is more compatible with red wine as opposed to a lighter pan-seared version.   Keeping this in mind, my salmon was cooked on a smoky charcoal grill with thyme sprigs and olive oil.   Using some of the wine, heirloom cherry tomatoes from the garden and shallots, a red wine sauce was created to top the grilled salmon.  Putting the pinot noir together with the heirloom cherry tomatoes creates a bright juicy cherry flavor to mirror the wine and adds a nice dash of acidity to offset the fattiness of the salmon.  

Roasting fennel should be just as much of an autumn culinary tradition as roasting butternut squash.   Fennel is an odd looking vegetable resembling an onion with its bulb and also dill with its feathery green tips.    As exotic as it may sound, fennel is something that most people are all familiar with in the form of the spice of anise or fennel seed, which is found in many recipes.    Once roasted, fennel softens and proffers forth rich, warm licorice flavors.   Roasted Fennel on top of sautéed spinach in garlic, butter and balsamic vinegar brings forth the deeper richer components of Elyse’s Pinot Noir.

Putting together this meal with a silky Pinot Noir such as Elyse’s invokes warm autumn spices proving a seasonal meal and contradicting traditional wine and food pairing guidelines:  proving that while summer has passed, culinary adventure has not. 

Cool autumn evening temperatures are descending upon Napa Valley and for many, backyard patio entertaining has retreated indoors.   Some still brave the fading hours of daylight, perhaps with the hope of cozying up to a significant other.   It is in those moments that a good glass of Bubbles can hold its own.    

As noted in my July article titled, “For the Love of Bubbles,” wine that would otherwise be referred to Champagne in France is referred to in the United States as sparkling wine.  More lovingly and casually among its true aficionados, it is also known as “Bubbles”.

Not all sparkling wines are created equally and they exhibit different nuances on the nose and palate.   J Vineyards, located in Sonoma County, California, has produced a bottle of Bubbles which transitions the palate through varying stages of fruit, nuts and spice, “J Cuvée 20”.  The J Cuvée 20 has achieved notoriety by scoring 90 points from The Wine Enthusiast, but its true success comes from the blend of grapes and wine which is combined to make this unique bottle of Bubbles.    In tribute to J Vineyards making wine for twenty years, its winemaker elected to fuse “old with new” in the making of this sparkling wine.   Using the current vintage, he blended reserve wines to create an alluring personable bottle of Bubbles.   The final blend consists of 49% Chardonnay, 49% Pinot Noir and 2% Pinot Meunier, signifying its capacity for depth and the potential to entice one’s senses.

Initially light and flirtatious with a hint of lemon zest, the J Cuvée 20 warms the mid-palate with flavors of almond and hazelnut and rounds out the finish with substantive lush flavors of pear and stone fruit.   Sipping this sparkler is much like the initial stages of a relationship:  fresh and charming it awakens your senses, yet hints of depth worthy of further exploration.   And just like when you have met someone with potential, you want to take your time with this wine and discover the nuances that it can deliver.

Seductive and coy with its own respective depth, the J Cuvée 20 is the perfect Bubbles for romantic entertaining when accompanied by some well-paired small plates.   This week’s menu, focusing on the concept of “small plates” (so as to not overwhelm the Bubbles), holds:

1)      Ricotta-Risotto Cakes on a bed of Miniature Greens With Pear Vinaigrette;

2)     Crab-Stuffed Mushrooms; and

3)     Grilled Peach Slices With Tupelo Honey and Mini Vanilla Bean Scoops.

Using ricotta in my miniature risotto cakes was a crucial decision to make the dish feel sensually lighter on the palate.    Since this is the starting “small plate”, the airy, fluffy nature of ricotta is compatible with the same initial light and flirtatious feel of the Bubbles.   To further match the risotto cakes to the wine, I used a carefully calculated blend of chive, basil, minced garlic, gruyere and fontal cheese.  While the risotto cakes are small, the flavors found within float past like a culinary slide show on the palate.   Next, instead of creating a salad with regular lettuces, using miniature salad greens creates a myriad of quick flavors and a similar sensual light feeling in the mouth.   Adding seasonal pomegranate seeds make the flavors of the salad pop and bring forward the brighter fruit components in the sparkling wine.   Again this adds depth to the salad and ricotta cakes which is in line with the complexity found in the Bubbles.   Finally, a simple drizzle of pear vinaigrette ties to the pear finish in the wine.   This salad while a small plate, uses small miniature ingredients to provide big, bursting flavor and sets off fireworks on the palate akin to the lightning bolts of a good first date.   

Next, Crab-Stuffed Mushrooms are a wonderful small plate pairing for this wine as it seems to coax out the deeper notes of the pinot noir grapes.    The darker, more romantic flavors of the wine are brought forward when paired with the crab filling and the rich flavors of the baby portobella mushroom caps.  Also, when choosing an onion to incorporate into the crab filling, it was necessary to select one that would be lighter in flavor so as to not overwhelm the wine.    Green onions worked exceptionally well, although spring onions would be a suitable substitute if in season.    

Finally to finish a light menu of small plates, a grilled peach is not only a seasonal simple dessert, but it refocuses the palate’s attention on the pear and stone fruit finish of the Bubbles.   As this is paired with a multifaceted sparkling wine, the dessert hosts a subtle layer of flavors:  miniature scoops of vanilla bean ice cream, a drizzle of Tupelo honey and a sprinkle of cinnamon.   A perfect light dessert for two and much like the wine, there is more going on here than readily meets the eye.  

Small plate dishes when paired with the right glass of Bubbles can command the attention of one’s senses in a very big way.   It is often the little things in life and relationships which mean the most and this is no exception.  

Ah, comfort food. . . it is generally warm, soothing, sensual and aptly named for its comforting side effects.  Everyone has a favorite.   Similarly everyone has a favorite time or triggering event that merits it.   Indeed it is a fact that comfort food is very personal.  

Given the personal nature of “comfort food”, it is only fitting that a Cab/Syrah Blend be the wine paired alongside.    Cab/Syrah Blends are the New World fusion of red wine.   In Napa Valley, where Cabernet Sauvignon is king, Syrah has been more recent to gain popularity among wine connoisseurs.   But when you blend the two wines together, nearly half-and-half, the result is a warm red wine that has the capability to soothe the tired soul.     Cabernet Sauvignon wine is typically quite rich and often heavy for a red wine.   Its characteristics on the palate are typically characterized by notes of cherry, tobacco, and spice and similarly is renown for a stately long lingering finish.    Syrah is known for blackberry, leather and spice and is historically recognized for its boldness and often described “brambly” nature.   Add a talented winemaker with carefully selected grapes, and suddenly red wine is taken to a whole different proprietary level.

Laird Family Estate (“Laird”) produces an excellent example of a vibrant Cab/Syrah Blend wine.   Known for its exceptional vineyards and grapes in Napa Valley, it is only natural that the winery would create a delicious, juicy Cab/Syrah Blend.    Known as “Jillian’s Blend”, the wine’s percentages vary with each vintage but this past year’s release, the 2005 Jillian’s Blend Red Wine, consisted of a blend of fifty-five percent (55%) Cabernet Sauvignon and forty-five (45%) Syrah.    As the wine pours into a glass with a lively tumble, it is rich and ruby colored as if to convey its very decadent nature.   On the nose, the wine has an alluring bouquet of blackberry preserves and spice; it follows through on the palate with not only blackberry preserves but notes of cherry and a warm spiced finish from its Cabernet Sauvignon component.    Laird immediately tags Jillian’s Blend as best paired with comfort food, such as pasta or even steak.    

Comfort food indeed goes with this wine and to personalize the notion of comfort food in a seasonal and sustainable spirit, this week’s menu simply holds:

·         Garden- Fresh Vegetable Casserole

Summer has ended and autumn has begun.    In my vegetable garden there are still heirloom tomatoes, carrots, green beans and zucchini, among others.   Also present for harvesting are enough herbs to create Herbes de Provence.    Adding crimini mushrooms, Vidalia onion, rye bread, mild cheddar cheese and some other seasoning to these vegetables and herbs, a filling, healthy garden-fresh casserole is made.  

Pairing this Vegetable Casserole with the Jillian’s Blend creates all of the comfort sensations that one appropriately expects from comfort food.   Warm tomatoes, zucchini, mushrooms, onions, cheese and rye bread blend harmoniously with this rich red wine.   When both are put together, a cool autumn evening is suddenly warm and inviting, just like a Cab/Syrah Blend.