Sparkling wines and the holidays go hand in hand.    Determining which Bubbles to break out for your guests and on which holiday can be daunting, particularly if you are looking to do something a bit unique.    As Thanksgiving approaches, it is timely to remember that there is one type of sparkling that is particularly appropriate at this time of year:   Sparkling Rosé. 

Sparkling wines in the United States are not all created equally as previously acknowledged in earlier articles.   Different grapes are blended to create color, complexity, depth and distinction in sparkling wines.   Perhaps no greater of an acknowledgment belongs to Sparkling Rosé wine as it readily stands out by virtue of its coloring (an almost salmon or coral hue).    Of the Sparkling Rosé wine choices in Napa Valley, Schramsberg consistently produces its Brut Rosé with balanced acidity and showing off unique fruit ranging from strawberry, blood orange to rhubarb.   Schramsberg’s Brut Rosé presently consists of 68% Pinot Noir grapes and 32% Chardonnay grapes (hailing from Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino and Marin counties).   The combination of the two types of grapes from various vineyards creates a sparkling wine characterized by vibrant fruit, spice and length in its finish.     Given the depth found in Schramsberg’s Brut Rosé, it is a versatile sparkling wine that can be paired with an assortment of food items, menus and occasions.    Given the bevy of side dishes and turkey that typically graces one’s table with the Thanksgiving holiday, this is the primary reason that I find Schramsberg’s Brut Rosé seasonally fitting.  

However, as we are still leading up to Thanksgiving and are not yet inundated with heavy food preparation, there is still time to prepare one last casual gourmet meal.    Taking into consideration the vibrant fruit in Schramsberg’s Brut Rosé and its dry nature, the meal paired should also have some depth to its flavors and be kept in tune with the autumn season.   This summer I grew butternut squash in my garden and it was prolific.   Even though I am nearing late November, I am still picking butternut squash and creating unique recipes.   Also still thriving in my garden are carrots and a varied selection of lettuces.    Considering items that are both seasonal and sustainable, this week’s menu hosts:

·         Butternut Squash-Ricotta Gnocchi with a Browned Butter Sage Sauce with Cranberries; and

·         Simple Garden Side Salad with Pear Vinaigrette.

Making Butternut Squash-Ricotta Gnocchi is time consuming, but it is not impossible.   The dough consists of baked butternut squash, ricotta cheese, parmesan cheese, salt, nutmeg and flour.    As with using flour in any recipe, the more it is beat into the dough, the tougher the gnocchi will be.  Keeping the gnocchi light is important to parallel the texture and consistency of the bubbles in Schramsberg’s Brut Rosé.   The flavor of butternut squash goes naturally with the fruit flavors found in a Sparkling Rosé.    After the gnocchi is made, it is crucial that the accompanying sauce be light as well.   Hence a browned butter sauce is ideal, seasoned with sage and dressed up with rehydrated dried cranberries.    Once assembled, flavors of butternut squash, sage and cranberry paint a perfect autumn picture.   

To accompany the gnocchi is a light simple salad prepared with of a mixture of lettuces from the garden.   Butter lettuce, red lettuce and other varieties are abundant as they prefer Napa Valley’s cool autumn mornings and afternoons.   Adding some carrots from the garden, a few nuts, dried cranberries, and pear vinaigrette creates a lively side salad to start the meal. 

Pairing Schramsberg’s Brut Rosé with the Butternut Squash-Ricotta Gnocchi serves a festive, flavorful meal.   The various fruit flavors in the wine dance perfectly with the notes of cranberries, sage and butternut squash in the dish.   Given the wine’s balanced acidity, it does not fight with the cranberries in the sauce.   

As the countdown begins towards the kick-off of the holiday season, look at the wine selection for your guests and consider adding a Sparkling Rosé among the usual suspects.   It is certain to enliven any table, pair with nearly anything, and festively greet the on start of the holiday season. 

Agli-what????   Aglianico, pronounced “Ah-lee-on-ee-koh”, is as unique as it sounds.   Grown most recognizably in Southern Italy, only a handful of growers in California grow this black grape.   The grape itself thrives in a bed of volcanic and rocky soil, seeking hot temperatures to spur its growth.  Taking this into consideration, there are certainly areas in Napa Valley where the grape would thrive.   While the Aglianico grape remains a mystery to many, there are a few growers in wine country who have plantings and harvest annually.    When it is found made well, the grape is used to create big bold dynamic red wines.

The Aglianico grape made into wine by itself can produce a burly, tannic red wine which frequently merits aging post-release.    However, the wait is worthwhile because the wine renders most notably a cherry flavor not found predominantly in other wines or blends.    Add this component to notes of leather, earth-like components, firm tannins and a lingering finish, Aglianico can become a unique red wine to give a hearty Cabernet Sauvignon a run for its money.   

Benessere Vineyards (“Benessere”), known for specializing in creating top notch Italian varietals in Napa Valley, is fortunate to neighbor a vineyard that grows Aglianico grapes.    Years ago, winemaker Chris Dearden produced an Aglianico wine which after some years of cellaring was a delicious unique alternative for the traditional big red wine.   But no sooner had the word been whispered through Napa Valley that this Aglianico was “ready” and it sold out.    Fortunately, Benessere continues to produce a wine, called “Sorridente”, incorporating Aglianico grapes such that one’s wine collection can remain diverse.   However, the wine is a blend (which is also a typical Italian varietal blend found in Italy), in which Aglianico grapes are introduced to percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.   Once the 2006 vintage is released for purchase, it is a blend of simply Aglianico and Merlot.    For the purposes of this article, I have pulled a 2003 Sorridente from my collection.

To test the merit of Aglianico’s ability to age, I have set aside a bottle of Sorridente from the following years:  2003, 2004, and 2005.    Sorridente has always been a favorite wine of mine given its unique character and its ability to dance across the palate with a lively lingering finish.   Given that the wine from these years is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Aglianico, you readily recognize components of all three grapes in the blend:  dark berry fruit, leather and tobacco from the Cabernet Sauvignon; smooth mid-palate fruit of the Merlot; and cherry, spice and notable tannins from the Aglianico.   As a wine ages, the fruit generally subsides and the tannins soften.    Opening the bottle of the 2003 Sorridente, the nose was met by black cherry aromas and similar bright flavors on the palate due to the predominate Aglianico.  However, given that the wine was allowed to cellar for a couple of years, there was a predominant smooth character to the wine which would not normally be found upon immediate release.    As a result, while the wine still exhibited tannins for structure, its smooth character shows off sophistication while being celebrated by cherry and spice from the Aglianico.

Since the Sorridente is an Italian varietal, and a substantive red wine, a traditional filling Italian dish is fitting.   This week’s menu simple hosts:

·         Zucchini Lasagna

Do not be fooled by the name “Zucchini Lasagna”.    The dish is not vegetarian, however, to give a unique and healthy twist, it does not use any pasta noodles.    To substitute for lasagna noodles, zucchini was cut into long strips, approximately 1/8^th of an inch thick.   Once cut, the slices were allowed to sit out on paper towels to absorb some moisture.   During this time I prepared a seasoned browned meat with sautéed sweet onions, chopped garden-fresh Black from Tula heirloom tomatoes and with marinara sauce.    Once simmered to cook off some of the excess liquid, the zucchini strips have dried a bit in the air and are ready for assembly.    Putting together the lasagna, (layering on ricotta, the meat and sauce mixture, shredded mozzarella, and then another layer of zucchini strips and repeated), the key is to layer the ingredients in a manner such that the liquid of the meat sauce does not sitting entirely directly on the zucchini.   Zucchini by nature releases water as it cooks and if in contact with too much liquid from the sauce, the lasagna would risk being runny and not holding together.   However, layering as done, the zucchini cooked to a perfect tenderness yet with enough substance and crispness to hold together as bona fide lasagna.  

Once the Sorridente is paired with the Zucchini Lasagna, a lively meal ensues.   The marinara sauce and sweet onions tango dynamically with the bright cherry flavor contributed by the Aglianico in the wine.   The zucchini brings forth the earthier notes from the Cabernet Sauvignon in this blend and the Merlot adds that certain indescribable smoothness that rounds out this blend wine.    And the meal itself?   It is filling without leaving one with a heavy feeling.  

If you are a fan of big bold red wine, start exploring Aglianico or Aglianico blend wines.    They have a brighter, spicier character than Cabernet Sauvignon wines, are certainly something unique to add to a growing wine collection and will spark interesting discussion among guests.  

Having now focused on the western side of Napa Valley for Cabernet Sauvignon wines, how does the eastern side of the valley compare?

Again, the answer is based on the specific geographical vineyard location.   It is not enough to merely be located on the eastern side of the valley.    Is the vineyard on a foothill, edge of the valley floor, or on a mountain?    If it is located on a mountain, is that mountain at the northern end of the Vaca Range or the southern end of the Vaca Range?  To focus this query, Atlas Peak has been selected for this week and it is renown for its famed Stagecoach Vineyard.   

Atlas Peak (located in the eastern bordering Vaca Range), rises to an elevation of 2,663 feet above sea level and is located towards the southern end of Napa Valley.   In 1992, Atlas Peak was approved as an American Viticultural Area (“AVA”), but given that it is known as a “mountain appellation”, its actual elevation can range from 760 feet to 2,663 feet.   Given that the region is on the eastern side of the valley, it receives full sunlight all day.   At higher elevations, the region benefits from cooler mountain-like temperatures and can easily be ten degrees cooler than the Napa Valley floor.

The appellation is primarily known for cabernet sauvignon grapes, which partake from benefits of the location’s climate and also the soil composition itself.   The soil is rocky and volcanic but shallow or thin (which promotes good drainage).  If you venture up to Atlas Peak you will note steep slopes, various rock formations and that it is not populated with forests of redwood trees (as opposed to Spring Mountain and Diamond Mountain on the western side of the valley).   Despite the desolate rugged mountain terrain, cabernet grapes thrive here and are capable of creating truly expressive wines.

Numerous vintners flock to the growers located in the Atlas Peak AVA and one vineyard in particular is most notable for producing wonderful cabernet sauvignon grapes:   Stagecoach Vineyard.    The vineyard exceeds 1,200 acres from the western slope of Atlas Peak to the edge of Pritchard Hill and over fifty wineries purchase grapes from this vineyard.   This week’s featured wine is Sequoia Grove’s 2005 Stagecoach Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon.  

Sequoia Grove’s 2005 Stagecoach Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon tumbles into the wine glass dark and foreboding.   Its bouquet wafts with dark fruit such as black cherry and cassis with a hint of “come hither” spice.   With its tannins in check, this wine is one smooth cat as it coasts across the palate with a slight sensation of earthiness and coyly reminds you of its dark fruit components.   It lingers pleasantly on the palate with bits of black cherry wandering into its finish.

Given the dark, expressive nature of this particular wine, a more rustic flavorful meal is merited.   This week’s menu hosts:

1)      Ropa Vieja;

2)     Broiled Polenta Cake; and

3)     Olive-Vegetable Ragout.

Ropa Vieja, while traditionally a Cuban dish, was introduced to me years ago in Mexico and often was considered a “clean out the fridge” type of meal.   It was hearty, simple, used a variety of ingredients and spices and was a different savory take on shredded beef.    Here, the ingredients are kept to a minimum so as to not overpower the wine or the other side dishes to come.    A collection of typical seasonings for steak, garlic, sautéed sweet onions and chiles, collectively slow-roasted and ultimately simmered to perfection, creates this Mexican-influenced Ropa Vieja.  

As opposed to serving Ropa Vieja with tortillas, polenta was another classically rustic dish that would blend harmoniously with the Ropa Vieja.   Since polenta is based from corn meal, its starches would not fight with the paired cabernet sauvignon.    While many love to pair potatoes with beef, potatoes are not a natural companion for cabernet sauvignon as the starches in the dish often fight with the wine.    That considered, even the polenta will need some seasoning.   Rather than reach for the salt, I used parmesan cheese.  Parmesan cheese offers a salty sensation yet keeps the sodium lower in the dish (which is important since the Ropa Vieja is seasoned).    Once properly made into creamy polenta, the polenta was then transferred to a baking dish to chill overnight in the refrigerator.   Cutting it into thin squares, it was placed the next day on the heated broiler to firm the outer edges, yet warming the soft creamy polenta filling.   Topping the Broiled Polenta Cake with Ropa Vieja simulates the concept of the tortilla, yet incorporates a rustic Old World traditional dish.  

Next, to add some color and a vegetable side dish, an Olive-Vegetable Ragout was created using the last of this fall’s green beans picked fresh from the garden, diced tomatoes, zucchini, black olive slices and seasonings.   Making a ragout is similar to sautéing and making a stew at the same time.  The juice from the ragout serves as a great dressing over the Ropa Vieja.   Similarly, if there is a vegetarian guest at the table, the Olive-Vegetable Ragout on top of the Broiled Polenta Cake is hearty, filling and rich with flavor.  

Once all of these dishes are taken together with Sequoia Grove’s 2005 Stagecoach Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, the flavors harmoniously blend together.    The food is wonderfully rustic and warming in its flavors and the wine sidles up naturally, reminding every so often of those lovely black cherry notes.   The food is filling, yet not heavy, and the wine is smooth and silky.   

Whether you are cleaning out the refrigerator this November in anticipation of the upcoming holidays or cleaning out the final fresh vegetables from your garden before frost, a warm, lively rustic meal easily awaits only to meet a dark, expressive Cabernet Sauvignon.   The two together are a well-suited match and can liven up any dining table on a dark November night.  

Autumn continues to settle into Napa Valley, bringing brisk northern winds, cooler temperatures and a continued yearning to explore warming hearty red wines.    To continue the Location Series with Cabernet Sauvignon, this week there is no area better to feature than Rutherford Bench.  

Rutherford Bench, which sits on the western central floor of Napa Valley, is famed for producing top Cabernet Sauvignon grapes.     Located north of Oakville and south of Zinfandel Lane, the famed Rutherford Bench contains deep alluvial soils which drain well and contribute to producing high quality Cabernet Sauvignon grapes.    These grapes typically produce a wine that has depth in its fruit flavors and herbal qualities.   However, the distinguishing characteristic about these grapes is that there is a certain dusty quality in the wine that is produced.    While it is readily easy to sense the dusty component in a Rutherford Bench Cabernet Sauvignon, it is not as simple to describe exactly what this component represents on the palate.     To walk through the components of an outstanding wine like this, a fantastic example is Sequoia Grove’s 2004 Rutherford Bench Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.

Sequoia Grove’s 2004 Rutherford Bench Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is dark in color with lustrous ruby notes.  Its nose offers mystery and suspense as aromas of blackberry, cassis, leather and mocha dust come forth.  

Wait… mocha dust?  

Sipping the wine, it is discovered on the palate as silky smooth with similar romantic, subtle dark berry fruit, spice and a confirmed sprinkle of mocha dust.    The dusty character of Rutherford Bench fruit is often described by many as being similar to mocha dust and this wine exhibits no different.  

Taking these components into consideration, it is easy to imagine this wine paired with warm hearty dishes or beef dressed with a spiced sauce.   Combining both of these ideas, this week’s pairing consists of:  

·         Sautéed Top Sirloin Strips in Red Wine Sauce With Balsamic Caramelized Sweet Onions and Garden Green Beans Atop Brown Rice

While the above dinner may sound simple or potentially bland, rest assured there are thoughtful gourmet aspects to dress up an otherwise straight-forward meal.   Irrespective, when enjoying a very good bottle of wine (particularly if more than a casual sum was expended) a far more liberating lesson to be learned is that the meal does not have to be equally as lavish.   By keeping the cost of the meal low, the guilt of enjoying a more expensive bottle of wine lessens.   And more importantly, by avoiding the pressure of creating a lavish menu, the meal is kept under control and in balance with the wine being served.   It is in these moments that the wine is truly allowed to stand out as the centerpiece of the dining experience.

Assembling this meal is done in the concept of creating a “bowl dish”, which while casual in appearance brings together all of the flavors of the ingredients to create depth similarly found in the wine.   Beef, as previously discussed, pairs naturally with cabernet sauvignon and helps to offset the wine’s natural tannins.    To insure that the steak will remain tender once sautéed, I marinated the meat in some red wine and seasoning and allowed it to sit out at room temperature for a bit prior to cooking.  

Since brown rice is being used (which can sometimes be described as dry), I have elected to create a Red Wine Sauce to drizzle over the meal and to coat the steak strips.   The ingredients of this Red Wine Sauce make the sauce unique and tailored for this wine.   Thinking about the components of the wine, the one element that stands out the most is the sensation of mocha dust.    As I carefully reduced the red wine with some minced shallots in the sauté pan, I began sprinkling cocoa powder into the sauce.   Later adding some Worcestershire sauce (among other ingredients) and allowing the sauce to thicken a bit, the Red Wine Sauce was created.    Tasting it, the cocoa powder does not overwhelm the other ingredients.    Instead it adds a different rich dimension, creates a similar dusty sensation, and really makes the flavors “pop”.   

To add some vegetable to the meal and help accentuate the herbaceous notes found in the wine, pieces of steamed green beans from the garden and Balsamic Caramelized Sweet Onions are added to the mix.   Finding garden green beans at this time of year is not impossible in my garden.    Presently, there a few blossoms set on the plants despite having produced heavily throughout the summer.    However, unsure of what autumn yields my plants would produce this year, I blanched and froze green beans from the garden.    Taking a few from the freezer, the green beans were steamed for a few minutes; the revitalization worked and near-freshly picked flavor came forth for the dish.    Similarly, to create an earthier or darker taste in the meal, balsamic vinegar was used at the end of the process to caramelize the sweet onion.    Both of these elements when taken into account with the wine accentuated the spice and the herbal notes found in the 2004 Rutherford Bench Cabernet Sauvignon.

Once assembled, the dish offered all of the hearty, earthy rich elements that one could attribute to a Rutherford Bench Cabernet Sauvignon.   

The next time you are exploring Cabernet Sauvignons, plan to stop and explore those offered along the Rutherford Bench in Napa Valley.    They are smooth, rich, elegant and mystical.    Try identifying that dusty factor and associating it with mocha.   If you dare, invite that wine into your kitchen and add the allure of cocoa to a dish or sauce and bring out the subtle sensuality for which Rutherford Bench is known. 

Diamond Mountain, located on the western northern end of Napa Valley on the Mayacamas Range, is one of the taller peaks bordering Napa Valley and is home to famed Cabernet Sauvignon grapes.   Diamond Mountain is a highly regarded American Viticultural Area (“AVA”) and is recognized for producing deep, expressive fruit that can hypnotize your palate and romance any meal into sheer decadence.   It is no secret that Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are some of my favorite grapes.

In order to do this special AVA proper justice, naturally a truly spectacular Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon would be selected to be highlighted in this article.    In my opinion, no wine is better to demonstrate the characteristics of this AVA than Laird Family Estate’s (“Laird”) 2003 Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon (“Laird Diamond Mountain”).   While Laird itself does not sit upon Diamond Mountain, due to a long-standing relationship, the winery sources the grapes from one of the most respected Diamond Mountain vineyards.    The result of this sourcing produces a wine consisting not only of high quality grapes, but of one hundred percent (100%) Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon grapes.  Since the wine is comprised of only Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, it indicates that it is capable of standing alone without the assistance of Malbec, Cabernet France or Merlot (which are typically added to Cabernet Sauvignon wine to help fill out the palate).    Laird’s Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon treats your palate to a uniquely velvety, rich and lush wine.

A pour of the Laird Diamond Mountain introduces the wine glass to deep gorgeous ruby notes.    The wine is an elegant cabernet sauvignon at first sight and its rich velvet-like coloring easily entices you to explore that which it has to offer. 

Venturing further, the nose is not disappointed as it is greeted with a bouquet primarily of licorice and blackberries.   However, as you linger to take in the aromas, there is a slight earthiness reminiscent of the porous volcanic soil of Diamond Mountain, accompanied by the scents of eucalyptus and rose petals.

As the wine finally meets the mouth, it is primarily spiced with anise and fruit-driven with big blackberry fruit on the entry followed by cherry as it crosses the palate.   The sensations from this Cabernet Sauvignon are akin to a rich full mouth from the onset.  Alone, this wine is rich and dreamy triggering sensations of velvet.  It could be paired with something as simple as cheese and crusty bits of bread.   The tannins are in check and do not hijack your palate to communicate that the wine would benefit from cellaring.   Instead, this Cabernet Sauvignon is very balanced, has the presence of tannins to provide structure and is a very accessible wine.   The wine itself is hearty, showing solid structure and sets forth a strong lingering finish.    

While this wine could be enjoyed by itself in all its Diamond Mountain glory, it does pair extremely well with food.    It could easily pair with a rich sensuous meal or something heavier like a steak.   Taking this wine’s individual attributes into consideration, this week’s menu hosts:

1)      Fresh Garden Side Salad with Blue Cheese Dressing;

2)     Grilled Top Sirloin Peppered Steak with Moliterno with Truffle Crumbles; and

3)     Drunken Portobello Mushrooms Au Gratin.

The salad featured is frankly a way to make you feel a little better about the richness to come.   It is also a great way to incorporate some seasonal vegetables from the garden (featured here, a variety of late ripening heirloom tomatoes, carrot and lettuces) into your meal and drizzling with some blue cheese dressing which pairs well with steak and cabernet sauvignon.   Taking a quick initial sip of the wine, the salad primarily allows the blackberry fruit to come forward; which for those skittish about tannins, this provides an excellent way to build your confidence and prepare your palate for what comes next.  

Steak and Cabernet Sauvignon go together like hand and glove.    Depending on the cut of meat and how it is seasoned will greatly accentuate the nuances found in the Cabernet Sauvignon paired.   Given that the Laird Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon is primarily fruit driven and has balanced tannins, a leaner cut of steak will pair well.    Some pepper on the steak will help to flush out the spice in the wine, but the real accolades belong to the cheese crumbles selected to sit atop the steak.   Moliterno with truffle is a pecorino cheese made from sheep’s and goat’s milk which originally hails from Italy and is recognized for its rich, earthy flavor due to the black truffle infused into the cheese.   Crumbling a bit of this aged pecorino cheese atop a piece of steak as it finishes on the charcoal grill adds a certain richness to the meat which pairs beautifully with the wine.  

To accompany the steak is a side of mushrooms.   However, this is no ordinary side of mushrooms but Drunken Portobello Mushrooms Au Gratin.   In order to tie the wine intimately to the meal, some of the wine was sacrificed to sauté slices of Portobello mushrooms.  While the steak finished on the grill, the mushrooms were put into a ramekin and topped with Moliterno with Truffle shavings.   Heated in the oven, a small mushroom au gratin side dish results and brings a whole new level of decadence to the meal.   

Pairing this wine with Drunken Mushrooms Au Gratin and a fresh cracked peppered steak is a meal fit for a king.    The Laird Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon wine by itself is rich and warming.   Incorporating the wine in the sautéed Portobello mushrooms brings forth berry fruit to mingle with the earthiness of the Portobello and the cheese’s truffle.   Couple this ensemble with the grilled steak and prepare for absolute decadence.  

Laird’s Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon is good for a chilly evening or even that first autumn storm that reminds us all that winter is just around the corner.    Rich and lush, this wine can stand solidly on its own and romance your palate with abandon.   Despite its bold individuality, this Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon pairs well with food.  Pair this wine with some protein or something of substance because this is no ordinary date, and this wine unabashedly lets you know its sensual side.