In the midst of the holiday season, sweets, cookies and baked goods bombard the senses.   Despite the potential for sugar overload, there is the possibility to pair a wine that is semi-sweet:   Riesling.

Riesling is most notably planted in Germany, but can be found planted in France, Italy, the United States and other countries.   In Napa Valley, each year Casa Nuestra Winery (“Casa Nuestra”) releases a small production of an off-dry Riesling (hailing from old vines planted in 1966) with notes of green apple, white peach and slight minerality.  

Riesling is highly influenced by where it is planted, taking on the characteristics of the terrior.  This white wine is generally characterized by a floral, if not perfumed nose, a variety of bright, crisp fruit flavors and high acidity.   Because of the high acidity, Riesling can actually age and is not a white wine that has to be quickly consumed within a year or two of initial bottling.  If the Riesling in question happens to be “off-dry” (meaning semi-sweet), the sugar contained in the wine will act to help preserve and extend the cellaring potential of the wine.   Aside from contributing to the ability to age a bottle of Riesling, the balance between its sugar content and acidity also allows it to pair well with a variety of food items.   For main courses, it pairs well with fish, pork, Thai, and sushi.  However, it also pairs well with certain desserts.

Riesling’s ability to pair alongside desserts provides a crisp, light off-dry alternative to sugary dessert wines or port.   My heritage is primarily Norwegian and as tradition follows in my family, Norwegian cookies and baked goods are made each December.  Norwegian cookies (such as Kringle, Spritz, and Sandbakkles) are not overly sweet or sugary.   It is also not uncommon among Norwegians to share their style of baked goods with a glass of wine in the late afternoon and a wine such as Casa Nuestra’s Riesling is a good candidate.

Also typical during the holidays is a warm spiced fruit pie.   To make something specifically paired with the Riesling, this week’s menu holds:

·         Spiced Apple Crumb Pie

When making an apple pie, the type of apple that is selected is crucial in determining the favor and the texture of the pie.   Taking into consideration the flavors found in Casa Nuestra’s Riesling, making an apple pie with crisp Fuji apples will mirror the notes in the wine and its acidity as well.  Loading the pie with several cups of apples and baking it for approximately forty to fifty minutes will cook the apples while maintaining a certain crisp consistency.  Considering that Riesling also pairs well with certain spicy cuisine, coating the apples in a mixture of sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg ensures a heavenly match with the wine.

As holiday gatherings continue, use creativity with your wine pairings to inspire lively alternatives to the usual fare and delight your guests.

Colder temperatures descended upon Napa Valley last week and were only banished from the region by the arrival of several days of rain, mist and clouds.   Wintery weather has finally arrived and nearly all of the autumnal leaves have fallen from the grape vines.   Accompanying these conditions is the distinct chill of oceanic dampness in the air which leads to an instinctive reach for a glass of warming red wine.

When searching for a hearty red wine that could warm even the coldest of souls, consider a robust blend wine.   Elyse Winery (“Elyse”) in Napa Valley has over the years made one such blend red wine called “Nero Misto”.   Nero Misto in Italian means “mixed black”.   Such name is appropriate when reviewing the grapes blended in the 2007 vintage of this wine:  37% of Petite Sirah; 25% of Zinfandel; 19% Carignane; 12% Primitivo; and a 7% blend of Charbono, Barbera and Vadiguie.    

What are those grapes?

If you only recognized Zinfandel in the list of the above grapes, do not be hesitant.   Many of these other grapes will be explored in depth in future articles posted in early 2010 on this web site.   For now, however, many of these grapes are some of the darkest red wine grapes planted (save for Alicante Bouchet) and when blended together, they have the propensity to create a rich, velvety dark mystical red wine that can warm one on a chilly day and yet easily pair with a wide range of food.

Upon opening a bottle of Elyse’s 2007 Nero Misto, the nose is met by aromas of strawberry, plum, black pepper and anise.   On the palate, the wine presents a velvety texture accompanied by flavors of black raspberries, plums, a hint of black cherry, strawberry and spice.   It is medium-bodied with silky tannins and its aromas and flavors mystically enchant the senses.  Additionally, given the fruit flavors, spice and pepper notes, it is easy to understand why this wine will also pair well with a variety of food, including spicier southwestern dishes.

As the holiday season is in full swing and there never seems to be enough time to get everything done, a simple flavorful, spicy one-pot meal is timely to serve with Elyse’s 2007 Nero Misto.   This week’s menu thus holds:

1)      Chili with Garden-Fresh Carrots; and

2)     Honey Cornbread Muffins.

Chili recipes can vary, but given the diverse blend of black grapes mixed into the wine, I found it fitting to start with my grandmother’s time-tested chili recipe.   Her recipe entails the usual suspects of chili powder and chili beans, but with the right amount of simmering on the stove, added sautéed sweet onion, oregano, cumin, garlic and pepper (among other spices) contribute more depth.   To add something still available in my garden, I chopped some fresh carrots to simmer which added a certain sweetness to the chili.   Allowed to simmer on the range for quite some time, the flavors in the chili marry and combine to create a blend of sweetness and spice.   Once finished, the bowl is topped with some freshly grated cheddar cheese.

To pair alongside, warm cornbread muffins crumble and fall apart in the mouth, as the honey contained in the recipe oozes a sensation of sheer comfort.   The simple substance of the cornbread muffins also helps to offset the alcohol content found in the wine.

Once paired with the wine, there is the distinct satisfaction and pleasure of knowing that a wine does indeed pair well with chili.   The wine’s spices and fruit meld instinctively with the sweet and spicy flavors found in the chili.   Simply prepared and simply paired, this meal and wine brings warmth and spice to any busy table or soul this holiday season. 

‘Tis the Season . . . for Dungeness Crab and Sparkling Wine!    While December can bring colder temperatures and often inclement weather, it makes up for it by delivering fresh Dungeness Crab to the Bay Area.   In the Bay Area, Dungeness Crab season typically begins in December and thus the delicious seafood finds its way into many dishes and holiday celebrations.    During the weekend, markets were loaded with fresh fully cooked Dungeness Crab and there was a tinge of excitement in the air since residents have waited most of the year for crab again to be seasonal.    Given it is the start of the season, there is no better way to celebrate its arrival than by pairing it with some quality Sparkling Wine.

Considering Sparkling Wines to be paired alongside Dungeness Crab, it is a natural decision to select a vintage of Schramsberg’s Blanc de Blancs.   Schramsberg’s Blanc de Blancs is made from one hundred percent (100%) Chardonnay grapes obtained from various vineyards in wine country.  To make the wine, small lots of malolactic- and barrel-fermented wines are added.    By combining these two styles of Chardonnay wines, not only does the resulting Sparkling Wine have complexity but it also has a unique light, if not “fly-away” consistency of bubbles in the mouth.   If you are thinking that this wine is special, you are on target because it was the 1972 vintage of Schramsberg’s Blanc de Blancs that then President Nixon served at the historic “Toast to Peace” in Beijing, China.

Depending on the vintage that either you have in your collection or you purchase today, Schramsberg’s Blanc de Blancs will present aromas of citrus, green apple, pear, apricot and honey.  Despite the presence of citrus, the acidity is balanced in the wine and contributes to a sophisticated, lingering finish.   Given the quality of Schramsberg’s winemaking, the Blanc de Blancs will age nicely.  If you are fortunate enough to have an older vintage on hand you will note that the wine is smoother and richer in the mouth, yet still maintains a light “fly-away” sensation.   These very same characteristics permit Schramsberg’s Blanc de Blancs a slightly broader spectrum of food pairings than the average Chardonnay based Sparkling Wine.

To create a seasonal casual menu serving Dungeness Crab alongside Schramsberg’s Blanc de Blancs, this week’s menu holds:

1)      Dungeness Crab Tostadas With Oaxacan Guacamole; and

2)     Mexican Wedding Cakes With Sliced Strawberries.

Dungeness Crab and Schramsberg’s Blanc de Blancs go together like soul mates on a warm sandy beach.   Even served simply alone, fishing out freshly cooked Dungeness Crab from its shell will pair beautifully with the Blanc de Blancs.   

Oaxacan Guacamole involves some cilantro, lime juice and green onion.  Since the green onion is a milder onion, it does not overwhelm the Sparkling Wine (which is crucial).  The buttery nature of the avocado reminds one of the deeper Chardonnay characteristics of the wine.

If you are entertaining guests, creating a tostada is quick and easy.   However, in this case choosing to make a tostada is intentional when considering the wine paired.  The consistency of the tostada sets forth a light texture so as to not overwhelm Schramsberg’s Blanc de Blancs (which is also light in the mouth).   Spreading a thin layer of the Oaxacan Guacamole on the tosada and adding some fresh Dungeness Crab on top with a lemon wedge along the side is a perfect accompaniment for this beautiful Sparkling Wine. 

Mexican Wedding Cakes are the perfect seasonal holiday dessert to quickly pair alongside Schramsberg’s Blanc de Blancs.    If made well, Mexican Wedding Cakes will be light and almost airy in consistency (which is compatible to the wine).   Combining this aspect with the cookie’s light outer coating of confectioner’s sugar and walnut or pecan chunks hidden inside, it pairs perfectly with Schramsberg’s Blanc de Blancs and accentuates the wine’s own subtle nutty notes.   Add some slices of strawberries for color, decoration and a simple extra dash of sweetness to finish off the last bit of sparkling wine in your glass. 

While the weather may begin to turn frightful this December, remember that light and festive seafood may be coming into season depending on where you live.   Pair it with a fun glass of Bubbles and spirits lighten instantly. 

Thanksgiving has come and gone, but its wake has left most refrigerators loaded with leftovers and a waning interest in them.    If culinary doldrums were not enough to wrestle with, hectic holiday schedules kick off this week with events, office parties, shopping, and parties with friends and neighbors on the nearby horizon.    Despite these constraints, there is no need to think that a creative wine and food pairing is beyond your reach.

First, do not shun those Thanksgiving leftovers quite yet.   Perhaps the traditional reheating of the dishes on their own lacks interest at this point, but using them to create a new creative dish can revitalize even the most cantankerous of palates.   And with any creative dish, a wine pairing is always possible.  

When looking for something that will pair easily with an array of leftover dishes from Thanksgiving, Rosé is a light, fruit-focused casual wine that should be considered.    As discussed earlier this year in a separate article, Rosés are made by one of three different methods and despite their pink appearance in the glass, they are primarily made from red wine grapes.   Depending on the vintner, a variety of characteristics can be found in the wine.   This week, given that I am going to create a dish from Thanksgiving leftovers, I have selected B.R. Cohn’s Rosé to pair with the meal because it is predominantly characterized by nuances of peach and spice.   

B.R. Cohn, located just north of neighboring Sonoma, makes a fun, seductive and lively Rosé.   Among the grapes used in the wine are Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsault.   Combining these grapes resulted in a semi-dry French Rhone style Rosé setting forth enticing aromas and providing raspberry, peach and spice on the palate.   The mere description of this wine triggers found memories of warm summer afternoons in the backyard, but by no circumstance should this wine be shelved until warmer months. 

Seeking a casual setting and a casual food pairing, Rosé finds its proper place no matter the season.   Scanning the Thanksgiving leftovers in my refrigerator, it is readily apparent that this week’s menu should simply hold:

·        Turkey Green Chile Quesadillas with Cranberry-Apple-Rhubarb Chutney

To add some spunk to the quesadilla, I spread some leftover Cranberry-Apple-Rhubarb Chutney on a flour tortilla.   Making the Cranberry-Apple-Rhubarb Chutney for Thanksgiving was a creative take on the traditional Cranberry Sauce while not using as much sugar.   While temperatures are lowering at night and frost warnings rumbling across Napa Valley, my garden is still producing a few items such as lettuce, cherry tomatoes, carrots, herbs and rhubarb.    With a desire to practice sustainability, I picked the rhubarb from the garden and incorporated it into my chutney.  Adding the rhubarb introduced a different twist on the chutney, followed by a dash of nutmeg and apple to sweeten.    It is these same fruit flavors and spice which pair compatibly with the Rosé selected.  

Any Thanksgiving that I have the opportunity to prepare either a turkey or turkey breast, I use the recipe that I posted last week on the web site’s Facebook Fan Page.    The trick to maintaining moisture in the poultry is roasting the turkey in a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc.   The turkey takes on a light flavoring of the wine and the result is a succulent bird.   

With plenty of leftover turkey, some was shredded and lightly peppered for the quesadilla.   Adding some sliced green onion, green chilies, and shredded jack cheese, the quesadilla is ready to be grilled and let the blend of flavors melt together.  

Once prepared, the Turkey Quesadilla is loaded with vibrant flavor and it is difficult to envision that previously these were lonely leftovers on the refrigerator shelf.  The meal and Rosé are a lively duo and while sitting in the afternoon backyard sun, the hustle and bustle of the holiday season seems far off.   Given the minimal food preparation and the casual nature of Rosé, this feeling of staving off the stress of the holidays does not have to be a simple December daydream.  

As Thanksgiving nears this week, there seems to be not enough time to get everything done and not enough room in the refrigerator as it continues to fill to capacity pending the upcoming feast.   Yet, for many, guests are starting to arrive in advance.   These same guests are still looking forward to be entertained and more importantly, fed.   But before one gets overwhelmed, there is nothing to fear as there are a bevy of wines that suitably pair with the theme of Thanksgiving and with the meals leading up to it.

One red wine that pairs well at Thanksgiving and with poultry is Pinot Noir.   Earlier this summer on the web site, Pinot Noir was paired with roasted chicken with herbes de provence and later with salmon.  

How is it that Pinot Noir can have such diversity despite being a red wine?   

Typically the age old rule is that red wine pairs well with beef or pork and white wines pair well with poultry and fish.    Generally, this standby rule is true.  However, when a red wine (such as Pinot Noir) has lighter characteristics, its pairings can be more versatile.   More importantly, depending on the other components and ingredients to the meal, the wine can be paired based on these elements and not solely upon the type of protein served.

Searching through my wine collection, this week I elected to select a Pinot Noir made by Laird Family Estate (“Laird”).    Earlier this summer, I featured Laird’s Ghost Ranch Pinot Noir, but the winery also produces a second pinot noir simply known as their “2007 Napa Valley Pinot Noir”.   The fruit is sourced from other vineyards in Napa Valley (as opposed to one vineyard) and creates a different flavorful personality from Laird’s Ghost Ranch Pinot Noir.   Laird’s 2007 Napa Valley Pinot Noir is characterized by Bing cherries, spice and a slight tobacco or leather note which triggers a nod to slightly earthier components.    Tasting this wine, its flavor components peel away delicately and lightly in layers as any good Pinot Noir should.  

Given the wine’s delicate nature, spice, leather and tobacco notes, a simple meal can be created to pair perfectly to mirror with warm earth spices.    This week’s menu holds:

1)      Butternut Squash Risotto; and

2)     “One-Pot” Chicken Marsala and Mushrooms.

Having planted butternut squash in my backyard garden this summer, I am still finding ways to incorporate the prolifically producing vegetable into my recipes and daily cuisine.   It is a perfect autumn vegetable and graces many a table at Thanksgiving.    Given that I am preparing “One-Pot” Chicken Marsala with Mushrooms, using roasted butternut squash in the risotto will be a perfect flavorful companion to the meal.    Once the risotto has been made, simply fold mashed roasted butternut squash gently into the risotto.    To add some spice and depth, I add nutmeg to the squash and some butter.    Next, toss in sautéed minced shallots with shredded parmesan cheese.  

While the risotto is cooking, my covered non-stick casserole is heating on the stove top.   Tossing in sliced skinless chicken breast (seasoned with a bit of salt and pepper), I allow the outside to brown slightly before adding marsala sauce and sliced crimini mushrooms.   Covering the casserole on the range and heating the pot for another twenty minutes, presents a tender, savory, earthy chicken and mushroom dish to keep company with the Butternut Squash Risotto.  

Serving the Butternut Squash Risotto alongside the “One-Pot” Chicken Marsala creates a rich flavorful meal which is simple, yet dynamic enough to entertain the taste buds of any guest staying with you prior to Thanksgiving.   

And what about the Pinot Noir?  

Laird’s 2007 Napa Valley Pinot Noir sips perfectly alongside this meal as its notes of cherry and spice compliment the Butternut Squash Risotto.  The surrounding earthy notes of the “One-Pot” Chicken Marsala with Mushrooms demonstrate how a red wine such as this one can pair harmoniously without overwhelming the poultry.   As Thanksgiving nears this week, remember that Pinot Noir can also grace your table with turkey, cranberry, stuffing and other side dishes.   Since there are enough varied side dishes during the typical Thanksgiving feast, the main protein course does not have to strictly dictate what wine is served and a lighter red such as Pinot Noir will serve well.

*In the spirit of Thanksgiving, The Casual Connoisseur is extremely thankful for her fans and reading audience.   Search “The Casual Connoisseur” fan page on Facebook and get my recipe for wine-basted succulent turkey.    Happy Thanksgiving and Cheers!