One year ago, as rain relentlessly poured, I stood in a winery and listened to a sage industry veteran talk about obscure grapes and which were his favorites.   There was no doubt which was his favorite:   Malbec.    As he effervesced with passion and his face lit with emotion, he forgot his post in the tasting room, ambled over to a particular bottle and poured himself a glass of dark red wine.   It was clear, due to the weather, that no one else would be coming in that day and as this man leaned on the tasting bar with a glass of wine in hand, he started to tell me the tale of his enduring love affair with Malbec.   It was the tannins, the fruit, the spice, the structure, yet the notable easy-going nature of the wine that had him hooked.    As he continued his tale of how the wine inspired him, his smile broadened, his silver handlebar mustache crept across his face and his eyes twinkled until he ultimately confided in a whisper, “I even barbeque in the rain.”

Anyone who has spent significant time in Northern California in the winter knows that the days of constant heavy rain often seem endless and that sunshine filled blue skies feel like a distant memory.   The weather is more than chilly and damp; it is outright cold and soggy.  There is no doubt that if a person is committed to barbequing in the rain, that person is passionate.   And if a certain wine inspires them in that passionate pursuit, then therein lies something special.

This week as I looked out over the seemingly continual pouring week-long rain in Napa Valley, I could not help but think of this cowboy over the mountain in neighboring Sonoma County.   Envisioning the smirk, the twinkle in the eye and the mischievous handlebar mustache, I was certain that a grill was fired up somewhere and that spiced grilled meats and Malbec were sure to follow.   And if it could happen there, it could happen here, too.

It may surprise some, but Malbec is a French red wine grape notably grown in Bordeaux.  In most French Bordeaux blends, Malbec is combined with Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot.   More recently, Malbec has been taking wine publications by storm with featured vintages emerging from Argentina (where it is widely planted).   When found made well, the wine is dark in color and robust tannins are present.   Being thin-skinned, the Malbec grape needs more sun and heat to grow well.   With this in mind, my search for Malbec in Napa Valley lead to the Stag’s Leap District AVA and a visit at Steltzner Vineyards (“Steltzner”).

The Stag’s Leap District in Napa Valley has been recognized as an American Viticultural Area (“AVA”) since 1989, recognized as an ideal AVA for growing Cabernet Sauvignon.  It  is located just north of the city of Napa and runs south along the Silverado Trail for three miles from Yountville Crossing Road.   At Steltzner, the vineyard receives eastern sun exposure and receives the cool evening breezes from the San Pablo Bay.   With eastern sun exposure, the Malbec grapes will receive optimum sunlight.   Steltzner is committed to making structured wines and its 2006 Estate Malbec is no different.   The wine itself consists of 98% of Malbec and 2% of Petit Verdot and is aged for sixteen months in mixed French oak.

Pouring Steltzner’s 2006 Malbec into the glass, the coloring is dark, rich red hues which as they settle hint at a darker inkier wine.  Its bouquet is conducive for being tucked away somewhere warm on a wintery rainy day:  capturing one’s attention with aromas of violet, black cherry, warm spices and a hint of leather.   Taking a sip, the Steltzner 2006 Malbec caresses the palate smoothly, yet remaining mindful by presenting a distinct structure.  While tannins are present, they are not as prevalent as in a Cabernet Sauvignon and the palate experiences nuances of black dried cherry, blackberry, cola and baking spices.  With an alcohol level of 14.3%, this is a wine that should be paired with food.

After tasting Steltzner’s 2006 Malbec, my culinary imagination wandered to Argentine cuisine and moreover, Argentine beef.  Argentina, most notably recognized for its quality beef, is recognized for its European and predominantly French influences in its cuisine.  Given the structure and tannins present in this wine, the innate inclination was to stoke up the charcoal grill for beef.  Taking into account the spices, fruit and aromas of this rustic wine, it is evident that something more exotic will pair beautifully and liven up a dreary day.    Deciding upon Argentine cuisine, this week’s menu hosts:

1)      Sweet Potato-Apricot Tortilla Espanola;

2)     Chimichurri Sauce;

3)     Charcoal Grilled Matambre Pinwheels; and

4)     Marion Blackberry Empanadas Dulces.

Since Argentine cuisine is influenced by the French, it is not surprising that eggs are used in various dishes and the Tortilla Espanola is not an exception.   Traditionally a Tortilla Espanola will consist of eggs, potato, sautéed onion and pepper.   Other Argentine dishes (such as stews) will use a variety of potatoes and even dried apricots.  Seeking to create depth in the dish, I elected to use primarily traditional sweet potatoes (not yams), one white potato, rehydrated dried apricots, sautéed sweet yellow onion, pepper and eggs.   Once baked in the oven, the consistency was perfect with just a hint of egg flavor yet the eggs helped hold the other ingredients together to create a rustic thick tortilla.   This dish can either serve as tapas (as a precursor to the main dish) or can be served alongside.  When consumed alongside the wine, the wine’s spices become more pronounced as if to naturally tango with the pepper in the Tortilla Espanola.   The apricot provides a tangy zip to the dish and gives it more flavorful depth.

No Argentine meal is complete without the classic Chimichurri Sauce, whether it is used for the upcoming beef dish or drizzled with the Tortilla Espanola.

Matambre in Argentina is a beef dish which is traditionally roasted in the oven and then served chilled (in order to slice properly).   The dish itself involves flattening beef with a meat mallet such that cooked chopped spinach, carrots, onions and chopped hardboiled eggs can be layered on top.   Next the meat is rolled and tied with cooking string and roasted.    Seeking a creative twist on Matambre, I elected to use my charcoal grill instead.   In preparation, I first marinated my lean thinly sliced steak in a combination of Malbec wine, fresh thyme and garlic gloves for six (6) hours.   Once marinated, I seasoned the meat with some sea salt and spices, and proceeded to layer chopped cooked spinach, cooked julienned carrots, thinly sliced sautéed sweet onion, and finely chopped hardboiled egg.   Carefully rolling the beef, I fastened it with toothpicks and inserted skewers appropriate for the grill.   Next I sliced the rolled beef into pinwheels and moved the extra pieces to the end of each skewer.

Once assembled, the skewers were placed on a hot charcoal grill, cut side down and the lid for the grill was lowered to help infuse more smoke flavor.   After being grilled on each cut side a few minutes, the pinwheels emerged, still intact and ready for consumption.

After personally feeling like a culinary magician, the Matambre Pinwheels proved a savory grilled delight.    Rolling the marinated beef helped maintain tenderness and juice.   The hardboiled egg again helped hold the contents together but also added a slight creamy consistency and flavor to the dish as a whole.  The layers of various flavors actually provided structure to the dish which made its pairing with the wine even better.  The carrot picked up the flavor of thyme from the marinated beef.  Slicing into a Matambre Pinwheels proved heavenly as the flavors melded together to create the proverbial “perfect bite”.   Taken together, the meat is smoky and spiced and the wine is rich and lush.

To finish, a sweet version of Empanadas was created.   Typically Empanadas can be filled with beef, cheese or vegetables.   However, they can also be created as a dessert provided that the filling is sweet.   Thinking about the fruit flavors in the wine, Marion Blackberry conserves would create a perfect filling for properly paired sweet empanada.   Once the Marion Blackberry Empanadas Dulces emerged from the oven, they were quickly tossed in a mixture of sugar and cinnamon.  The cinnamon was chosen to accentuate the spices found in the wine.

Finishing the meal it was easy to understand why that “wine cowboy” in Sonoma spoke so passionately about barbequing and Malbec.   The smoky grill, structured tannic Malbec, varied flavors and spices soulfully complement one another.  Taken together, the exotic meal and the rustic wine enlivened the senses on an otherwise soggy, cold day.   As winter continues, release your inner-gaucho, follow your innate sense of adventure and explore Malbec.

Mad for Merlot?   Is this possible?   Have I finally tasted enough wine to have lost my own wits and sense?   Hardly.  Instead, let it be known that anyone who turns up his or her nose at the possibility of being “mad for merlot” cannot claim to be a true wine aficionado.

Merlot is a grape that (as discussed this past summer) is found as the predominant grape in red Boudreaux blend wines, found blended from time to time with Cabernet Franc, and moreover is found standing on its own to create one hundred percent vintages.   As noted in my earlier article, “In Defense of Merlot”, many budding wine enthusiasts took a wrong turn under the influence a certain beloved pop culture wine film from the last decade which had a detrimental effect on the prior popularity of Merlot wines.    Wait, last decade?   Why, yes, and how passé!    If the start of a new decade is to be associated with new cultural trends, make one to join the current wine movement to bring back Merlot.    Such an undertaking is easy since the revitalization of Merlot does not involve anything remotely altruistic or overly committed.  Even with minimalistic research you will learn that Merlot can be presented in a remarkable wine, if it is indeed made well.

Some of the finest red wines made in the world consist of one hundred percent Merlot grapes.   Merlot, originally hailing from France, has been successfully planted in many parts of the world with its abundance determined by regional tastes and likes.   If planted in an area ideal to the grape, it can result in a smooth, supple and elegant red wine certain to capture and captivate one’s taste buds.   In 2001, Markham Vineyards (“Markham”) produced a Reserve Merlot worthy of such accomplishment.

What does “Reserve” mean?

One of the greatest secrets in the wine industry is that there is no legal definition for the word “Reserve”.   This means that the word “Reserve” is particular and independent to the winery in question.    On the bright side, it could denote that higher quality grapes are used, estate grapes are used or that a particular vintner made the wine, etc.   On a darker side, it could also be a marketing ploy to imply quality when that is not the case.   As a result, if you are visiting a winery and you see a “reserve” wine on the list, do not jump to conclusions.   Simply ask your tasting room assistant for the meaning of the word in relation to the winery and more importantly, let your taste buds make the decision for yourself.   Much about wine appreciation truly stems from what you  like and in the case of “reserve” wines, your palate will not mislead you.

With respect to the 2001 Reserve Merlot that Markham produced, there is not a shadow of a doubt that quality fruit and quality winemaking were involved in this wine.  If elegance could emerge from a bottle, it does here.   One characteristic of a quality Merlot is the coloring of the wine in the glass.   While the grape itself may be a beautiful shade of blue-black, the wine will result in a medium to dark-red color.  Here, the 2001 Reserve Merlot is of similar coloring.   Further demonstrating its quality, the wine is velvety on the palate and nuances of raspberry, cherry, tobacco and dark chocolate lilt through the mouth, flirting with one’s taste buds.   Any prior misperception of Merlot softens instantly and before you are even aware, a slow relaxed smile has already crept across your face.   While the complexity of multi-layers of flavors and aromas are not present, this does not detract from the wine itself.   Sometimes when something is simple, but done exceptionally well, it is better.   It immediately grabs hold of your senses and continues to present a full round, supple velvety mouth feel until the wine itself is simply fading into the horizon.   This wine exudes a simple strong elegance and results in being simply sensual.

With this in mind, an array of recipes comes to mind.  However, given that winter still strongly grips Napa Valley in January with colder temperatures and driving rain, something warm, sensual and comforting appropriately pairs:

·         Italian Sausage Beef-Bolognese Lasagna

When the dregs of winter arrive in January, there is no room for polite meals.  Instead the warmth and comfort of a good red sauce, pasta noodles and cheese command center stage.    Despite the spices in the Lasagna, the wine is not overwhelmed.   It stands up well and holds its own alongside this Lasagna (which has sautéed sweet onion, garlic, diced tomatoes, and a cabernet marinara sauce).   The cheeses involved (ricotta, parmesan and mozzarella) are soft and comforting similar to the wine.

Finishing the meal, it is easy to pour an additional glass of the Markham 2001 Reserve Merlot and simply sip with sheer enjoyment.   By itself, the wine is relaxing, elegantly sensual and the notion of “comfort” personified.  With such a description it is easy to understand how this particular wine can enchant the senses and leave one delightfully dizzy and moreover, mad for merlot.

January in Napa Valley typically brings strong rainstorms from the Pacific Ocean, creating cold dark and stormy nights.    Candles are lit in living rooms and the air outside is permeated with the smell of wood fires burning in neighboring fireplaces.   As the winds bluster, the rain falls and a chill fills the air, it is only fitting to enjoy a warm red wine on such evenings.  

Charbono is a unique grape which (in the United States) is presently known to be only grown in California in Napa and Mendocino counties.  Compatible with winter weather, Charbono is a dark and brooding wine.   Mysterious by nature, not much is known about the Charbono grape except that it may originally hail from the Savoie region of France and that it can produce a typically tannic and acidic wine.   If made well, the wine is extremely dark in color, alluring to the nose, and characterized by black fruit flavors, a firm structure and a notable finish.   For those who are Cabernet Sauvignon fans, Charbono serves as a formidable challenger in the world of big, bold red wines.   Trying it, you will not be disappointed as you will secretly personalize your wine collection with the discovery of a beloved strong, rustic red wine (which many do not have, nor of which many are aware).

Selecting a Charbono to feature is an easy task as I have a favorite in the few that are made in Napa Valley.   Elyse Winery (“Elyse”) in Yountville has a second label, Jacob Franklin.    Under that Jacob Franklin label, the winery produces a Charbono.  Having recently obtained access to the new 2007 vintage of the Jacob Franklin Charbono, I was excited to not only try the new release but feature it since it is one of my favorite wines.

Opening the Jacob Franklin 2007 Charbono, the cork reflects promise as it is stained by dark, inky wine.   As the wine pours into the glass, its appearance is dark (if not black) and the nose is met by aromas of spice, smoke, leather and dark fruit.  On the palate, the acidity of the Charbono is readily noted with flavors of black plum, black cherry, a slightly earthy component and a finish noting flavors of anise and a hint of smoke.   The 2007 vintage contains twelve percent (12%) of Barbera which lends a slighter brighter taste to the otherwise dark fruit in this wine.    Not to disappoint, the Charbono rolls smoothly across the palate with a notable finish that lingers just long enough to entice another pour.

While easily enjoyable on its own, the Jacob Franklin 2007 Charbono is an excellent wine to pair with food.   With the combination of acidity, tannins and dark flavors, the pairing possibilities are endless.   If someone hunts or is a fan of “wild game”, Charbono serves well alongside fattier sides of protein.  This is not to imply that vegetarians should veer away from food pairings with Charbono.    Because of the notes in the wine, earthier flavors found in fennel, spinach and mushrooms pair well, too.   And if someone is a lover of Italian comfort food, this wine will go marvelously with hearty lasagna.   This week, however, to demonstrate the versatility of this wine, the menu holds:

·         Roasted Fennel Topped With Italian Sausage and Mushrooms on a bed of Sautéed Spinach With Minced Garlic and Dressed With Parmesan Cheese Shavings

Each ingredient in the above dish is purposefully included based on the aromas, flavors or elements found in the wine.   As previously noted, spinach, fennel and mushrooms compliment the earthy components experienced in the Charbono.   The fennel was sliced relatively thinly before being roasted in some white wine and a bit of balsamic vinegar.  Once roasted it is placed atop the bed of spinach and then topped with sautéed crimini mushroom slices and crumbled brown Italian sausage.    The fatty consistency of the Italian sausage helps cut the tannins in the wine and the seasonings also compliment the wine’s spicier components.   Adding shaved Parmesan on top of the meal simulates the wine’s smooth finish.

Taking in the various flavors of the meal with the Charbono creates a rich, robust myriad of flavors which induce rustic senses and invoke dreams of old world charm.   In the glass, the Jacob Franklin Charbono is delicious, smooth, dark and enticing, as if beckoning the bottle for another glass.   And as rain continues to visit Napa Valley, a glass of Charbono warms on a cold, dark and stormy night.

Stop scratching your head.   Stop wrinkling your nose.   Good aged white wine?  Could it be possible?

Visit countless wineries and you will hear the same advice repeatedly:   “Drink your white wines young, maybe one or two years post release.”    And generally, this advice is true.  However, there are some white wines which can be aged (such as Chardonnay) and depending on the grapes incorporated into a white wine, some blended white wines can age as well, too.   

If this is still too much to process or too great a risk to take on your own, do not fear.   Thanks to the generosity of a friend, I have two older vintages of a delicious white blend wine with which to experiment.

Having confidence to try an aged white wine (let alone have the courage to age one) can definitely create a dilemma.  Given the present undertaking, it is appropriate that the wine selected is called “Conundrum”.  Conundrum is a great California blended white table wine.  While the actual composition of the wine is kept a secret, it is commonly known to consistently contain Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat Canelli and Viognier.   Each one of these white grapes will lend different aromas, acidities, flavor profiles and mouth feels to the ultimately blended wine.  Viognier is best known for its tremendous capacity to provide highly aromatic and floral bouquets.   Sauvignon Blanc can lend crisp acidity and often times green apple or lemon flavors.   Chardonnay is the classic butterball, adding aromas of vanilla and a creamy mouth feel.   Muscat Canelli is typically used for dessert wines so while it is certainly added for sweetness, it can also be known to add a bit of fizz or slight carbonation (as traditionally made in Italy).   Finding a bottle of the recent vintage of Conundrum at a local restaurant or wine shop will not disappoint the palate and does not require any aging.    However, what happens if a bottle is set aside for a few years?

As noted, a friend kindly presented me with two older vintages of Conundrum wishing that I would taste them, compare them and share my thoughts.   Given that I just finished discussing the aging of red wine, it was timely to explore aged white wine.    The two wines that are up for tasting are (each) bottles of the 2002 Conundrum and the 2003 Conundrum.

Interestingly enough, at first observation, the 2002 vintage uses a cork and the 2003 vintage uses a screw-cap.   A screw-cap?    Before you are distracted by memories of your dad storing cheap wine in the garage, there are benefits to using a screw-cap as a closure with wine.   The screw-cap does create an air tight seal, which is important to preserving aromas and flavors found in a wine.   While a cork also creates an air tight seal (as it expands to close off the wine from oxygen after bottling), if the wine is not properly stored on its side to keep its cork moist and fully expanded, it will eventually dry out possibly leak and even run the risk of creating a phenomenon called “corked wine”.   If a cork is faulty, it will create a chemical compound called 2, 4, 6-Trichloroanisole (TCA) which will lend a musty and moldy characteristic, ultimately ruining the wine.   As a result, the screw-cap can be a smart alternative.

Opening first the 2002 Conundrum, at first inspection, the cork is still intact and still moist.  Pouring a bit of the wine into the glass, there is no musty or moldy smell and at first sip, the wine is still easily drinkable.    Next, opening the 2003 Conundrum (which sports that controversial screw-cap), the wine has a more pronounced bouquet and equally tastes fine, but with a bit more acidity.   Upon initial comparison, both wines have aged well and it is quite possible that the screw-cap has made a difference in preserving the wine’s attributes given the floral bouquet is more pronounced and the acidity lends itself to almost a tiny bit of fizz which a more recent vintage would show off more.    However, given that the winemaker does not reveal the exact composition of the grapes each year, there is no way to verify if some of the differences initially noted are due to the different closures or due to differences in percentages and the types of grapes used.

Revisiting the two vintages (now confident that both have aged well and that one was not corked), the differences in the aroma, palate and mouth feel are quite distinct:

2002 Conundrum:    Slightly darker in coloring, the wine is beautifully (yet subtly) aromatic despite having aged now eight years, presenting notes of melon, butterscotch, and french vanilla which easily reminds one of crème brulee.   The wine impresses the palate with a smooth creamy consistency with flavors of crème brulee and a hint of tropical fruit.  The traditional fizz noted in young vintages of Conundrum is not present in the 2002 vintage but strangely, it is not missed.   The body of the wine is still noticeable, thereby not rendering it flabby.   Of particular enjoyment, the wine’s acidity is in perfect balance making it an exceedingly pleasant, easy drinking aged white wine.

2003 Conundrum:   It is with fascination that one wonders if the more markedly predominant bouquet is due to the screw-cap closure.   The nose on the wine is indeed stronger, representing notes of butterscotch, custard, a hint of apricot and florally tantalizing with lemon blossom.   Again, due to aging, the fizz that the Muscat Canelli might produce is not present, but instead the 2003 vintage does show off some acidity making the wine a bit brighter and more upbeat in personality.   The mouth of the wine is not overwhelmingly smooth and creamy as the 2002 vintage, but this is a wine that will still easily serve well once temperatures warm and serve alongside seafood or appetizers such as melon wrapped with prosciutto.

As tasting continues and given the grapes used to create Conundrum, it becomes more and more apparent that this wine is the perfect candidate for creative food pairings.   While the wine could technically be paired with a variety of meals and dishes and transcend from casual to formal settings with ease, I have elected to create something simple which is layered in flavors and easily shared with others in the spirit of casual entertaining:

·         Faux Apricot Honey Fondue

Fondue is a fun way to entertain, but if you are looking to avoid the clutter and clean up of a fondue pot, it is easy to achieve both by creating what I call a “Faux Fondue”.    In doing so, I have first taken a portion of a sourdough baguette, slicing along throughout it and brushing it with melted butter so that it will crisp a bit in the oven.   Once slightly toasted, I thinly layered brie cheese across the top, followed by pure apricot fruit spread and drizzled across with tupelo honey.    As if that is not enough to make one drool, next it is tucked into the oven just long enough for the brie cheese to melt and the flavors to meld.

Out of the oven and allowed to cool for a few minutes, next a thin sharp knife is used to gently separate the pre-cut slices and easily serve to guests alongside the two wines that are being tasted and compared.   The result is a heavenly “oohey-goohey” fondue sensation with rich and creamy brie, a sweet semi-tart apricot and an indescribably seductive honey. 

And which vintage did the Faux Fondue best pair with?   The 2002 vintage of Conundrum won this test as its own smooth and creamy mouth feel matched the same sensation in the food.   Additionally the buttery and salty taste of the brie, the tartness of the apricot and the hint of honey naturally paid tribute to the mysterious entourage of white wine grapes typically found in Conundrum.  

The next time you are rushing yourself to finish your white wines in your collection, consider setting one or two aside to age for a few years.   It may be a task in vain or it may delight your senses.   In the end, it is not a very difficult conundrum to solve.

As the year 2009 closes out this week, most of us have a sense that age and time are fleeting.   It seems as if it was not that long ago that many of us were throwing the door open and greeting the arrival of 2009 with hope and enthusiasm.   As we prepare to do the same for the arrival of 2010, we cannot forget that many things do get better with age (particularly wine).

At one point or another we’ve all heard the famous pun that something or someone is like a fine wine and gets better with age.  While generally wine does age well, what do we really know about aging wine?   Do all wines age well?   When does aging begin and how does it happen?  Moreover, why is it desirable that a wine age well?    And just how long are wines supposed to age?

These questions are all valid and crucial in order to flush out fact from fiction about a wine’s ability to age.  Generally, red wines age better than white wines.    This is not to say that there are not some white wines that can age, but in this article, red wines will be addressed.  

When does the aging process begin?  

The aging process actually begins once the wine commences the fermentation process (which occurs early on during the winemaking process).  After fermentation completes, the wine in its newly changed state begins its journey through the aging process.   Next, the wine is placed into wood barrels (often times oak) and it will be aged there for a length of time which is highly influenced by the winemaker’s discretion.   Part of the rationale behind barrel aging is that due to the type of wood, size of the barrel and time spent therein, the wine will take on aromas and flavors as a result of the wood and pick up more tannin to create structure.   Not all red wine grapes benefit from long time periods of barreling in wood because if allowed to stay too long, the wine will become overpowered by the flavor of the wood (often times recognized in some wines as heavy notes of cedar) and the natural attributes of the grape will become lost.   Once removed from the barrel, the wine is then bottled and set aside in a cool dark area to sit and more importantly, continue aging.   Depending on the grape in the bottle, most red wine grapes benefit from what is known as “extended bottle aging” which can easily exceed twelve months.   And if you can resist and store the wine properly at home, the longer that bottle of red wine sits, the more it ages.

What is the benefit of aging wine?

Aging a quality red wine will permit the wine to become smoother over time, lessen in tannins, lose a possible harsh quality and overall develop more complexity.   Not all red wines are intended to age for decades upon decades.   Heartier grapes such as cabernet sauvignon wines (provided that it is a quality wine) can age beyond ten years if not for twenty years or longer.   Similarly, some ports and zinfandels can age ten years or longer.   However, other zinfandels peak in the aging process around six years post-bottling.   Sangiovese, for example, ages best up to ten years (where it generally peaks).

Selected as a model to show the benefits of aging is a ten year-old bottle of wine, a 1999 vintage of Sangiovese from Benessere Vineyards (“Benessere”).   In order to best learn about the benefits of aging a particular wine, it is advisable to set aside a vintage of a wine with which you are very familiar.  Benessere specializes in making Sangiovese and moreover, throughout the years I have grown very familiar with its Sangiovese and know what to seek from it.

Sangiovese is an easy drinking red wine that is suspected to originally hail from Tuscany.   Visiting Italy, it is the one red wine grape that is commonly planted.   Generally, the wine’s coloring is not as dark and robust as other red wines.   Depending on the winemaker and the grape clones used, the wine is also not as fruit forward but can be earthy (which in turn means that the location where the grapes are planted will greatly affect the flavoring and nuances in the wine). 

Upon opening Benessere’s 1999 Sangiovese, the nose is readily sultry and seductive, immediately showing off its aptitude for complexity.   Greeted by nuances of red fruit, a hint of licorice, warm spices and a slight earthiness, this wine entices the senses and wakens the mind to contemplate the wine’s journey to arrive at this present state.   Admiring the wine in the glass, its coloring has withstood ten years of sitting in the bottle and still reflects jewel tone ruby colors.    As the 1999 Sangiovese meets your mouth, your palate is ensconced by smooth, almost velvet-like characteristics.   While not as pronounced the fruit is still present adding a juicy sensation, but the wine is more notably characterized by notes of pepper, a mild smokiness, and an easy fading simple finish.   In short, the 1999 Sangiovese is one quiet, smooth character and loaded with subtleties.

Given the depth and complexity of the 1999 Sangiovese, it could simply be enjoyed by the glass alone.   But what if you wanted to pair it with food?   Generally when serving an aged wine, I prefer to keep my menu and ingredients simple so as to not overwhelm the wine.   To pair with the 1999 Sangiovese, this week’s menu simply presents:

·         Grilled Baby Portobello Mushroom Parmesan Sourdough Baguette Slices With Seasoned Marinara Dipping Sauce

Sautéing some sliced baby Portobello mushroom slices in white wine and butter is intended to mirror the slight earthy notes found in the wine.

Prior to topping the slices of sourdough baguette, the bread is lightly brushed with olive oil and then grilled to allow a firmer consistency.   After the mushrooms are placed atop the slices, they are decorated with shredded parmesan cheese and briefly tucked into the oven to melt and meld the flavors together.   Next, chop some fresh basil and oregano to dress up your favorite marinara sauce and heat to create a casual, simple dipping sauce.

Pairing something simple such as these mushroom parmesan sourdough baguette slices with the 1999 Sangiovese permits the wine to continue to stand on its own and display the complexities well-earned from ten years of bottle aging.   While enjoying an aged wine, one can sit back and reflect on how that wine has evolved into the wine it is today and where it would go in the future.  And as the year 2009 closes out, an aged wine proves fitting as one reflects over the past year and wonders where 2010 will go.