Mar 03 2010

Fun Bouncy Barbera

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Rainy season continues to linger in Napa Valley and presently it seemingly delivers a storm every few days.  With such weather comes the ideal opportunity to drink red wine but as spring also nears, one finds that the palate is somewhat exhausted from heavy tannins.  This bears a timely educational question.    Is all red wine tannic?   The answer is no.   There are red wine grapes which are harvested earlier in the season and do not have the heavy, overpowering tannins often associated with red wine such as cabernet sauvignon.   Barbera is one of these lesser tannic red wines.

Originally hailing from Northwestern Italy and grown in California, Barbera, simply put, is a “party wine”.   If found made well, it is easy going, flavorful with bouncy fruit and saucy acidity.  Even though it lacks tannins, do not assume that the wine lacks structure.  If grown in the proper region and harvested at the right time, the acidity and fruit components play off one another to create a lively lush red wine.  The grape itself does not like a lot of heat and is not overly picky about its soil.  While at first it seems like a low-maintenance grape, if it is grown in an area that is too warm for it, its alcohol level will be high and the fruit nuances will seem lacking or flabby.   But find Barbera grown in an area where it thrives, it is an affordable, bouncy, fun, vivacious red wine that you would want to invite to any festivity.

Leaving Napa Valley and heading over the hill to neighboring Sonoma Valley, Mayo Family Winery released a 2006 Barbera which embraces this carefree, casual and easy going nature of the grape.   Pouring it into the glass, the coloring of the wine exhibits the trademark beautiful, bright ruby jewel-toned hue for which Barbera is known.   As your nose explores the top rim of your wine glass, it is seduced by big aromas of luscious strawberry jam, cranberry, plum and a hint of spice.   The presence of red fruit in this wine is undeniable.   Despite the 2006 Barbera’s noticeable acidity, the wine is smooth.  The balance between bright red fruit and acidity is noted, so that the wine does feign a pleasant structure with flavors of cranberry, pepper, strawberry, red raspberry and warm fennel.   While the wine does not have a long finish (nor should it), its finish is short, sweet and uncomplicated (like many things in life should be).

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As for food pairings, tomato-based dishes are intuitive due to Barbera’s inherent acidity.   While this leads the imagination to a bevy of Italian inspired dishes, it should be noted that due to the bright lush red fruit in the wine, vegetables in general will pair brilliantly and not get lost (as they do with other more tannic red wines).    Taking this into account, this week’s menu holds:

·        Vegetarian Lasagna

Preparing my vegetarian lasagna, I first chose my vegetables:   sweet onion, spinach, artichoke and carrot.   Rather than use a white sauce, I used a traditional red marinara sauce to pair with the acidity in the wine.   To add richer flavor and as a healthier alternative, I used whole wheat lasagna noodles.  Spices, mozzarella, part-skim ricotta, garlic were the next usual suspects but to add a different kick and flare to the dish, I crumbled herbed feta cheese across the top.

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The result was a lively vegetarian lasagna compatible with the bright fruit and festive acidity of the 2006 Barbera.   The carrots in the dish became sweeter when noted with the wine.   It should be noted, however, that while artichokes were included in the recipe, they were kept at a balance such that they did not unduly influence the wine.   Artichokes must be used cautiously when pairing a wine because when taken together, the artichoke causes a chemical reaction which actually makes the wine taste sweeter than it truly is.   As a result, if you are seeking to truly appreciate the wine on its own merits, keep artichoke pairings to a minimum.

The lasting impression of the wine and food is mere pleasant simplicity.   The dish is not overwhelmed by the wine and similarly the 2006 Barbera does not get lost in the seasonings or flavors of the meal.   Instead, they are a copasetic duo which vividly remind one that not all things in life are meant to be complicated and instead to sit back, relax and dream of hopeful things to come.

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Feb 24 2010

Charismatic Rugged Petite Sirah

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If there is a grape which is followed with fervor and passion in Napa Valley, it is Petite Sirah.   Despite its name’s diminutive reference, the grape is capable of creating a big, bold tannic red wine loaded with complexity.  Primarily grown today in California (despite initially being grown in France), this grape is adored by its loyal fans.   The grape’s history is not without debate or controversy as over time it has been argued that it is a derivative of Syrah, while others argued that it was more like the grape Durif (which reportedly now is near extinct in France).   In the 1990’s, the grape Durif was analyzed with a DNA test which did show that the grape’s genetic parents were Syrah and Peloursin.   While this may at first seem to have solved the debate, it produced a greater complication in California.   In California, Petite Sirah was reported already in existence in the 1880’s, yet Durif was only being created at that time in Europe.   Taking this viticulture twist into consideration, it is understandable that some previously declared “old vine Petite Sirah vineyards” in California might house an errant Carignane, Syrah, Mourvedre, Peloursin or Grenache vine.   Among rabid Petite Sirah fans, impassioned verbal debates may ensue, but the average connoisseur can chose détente, cut to the chase and recognize a quality Petite Sirah wine:  a deep-colored red wine, which is dominated by blackberry fruit yet complex, robust, peppery and clearly tannic.

As one tastes various quality Petite Sirah wines, he or she discovers that like a good Pinot Noir there are subtle complexities and layers which come forth with the wine as it opens.   A good Pinot Noir wine’s nuances divulge themselves sequentially and float softly through the palate like gently falling rose petals.    Petite Sirah, however, slowly peels back a different seductive bold layer, often intriguing the senses and causing the consumer to think.   In short, Petite Sirah is a “thinker’s wine” allowing each individual to truly personalize what he or she experiences.   Perhaps this is why people become so passionately enamored with Petite Sirah or perhaps the reason is simply that the grape just is damn good.

Petite Sirah offerings abound in Napa Valley and that should come as no surprise.   The soil is volcanic, dusty and dry and the area is known for warm growing seasons such that the grape finds a happy home and thrives.    Markham Vineyards (“Markham”) presently provides the opportunity in its tasting room to not only taste its current release of the 2005 Petite Sirah but also the 2004 Petite Sirah.   Tasting them side by side allows one to not only acquaint oneself with the grape and the vintner’s winemaking style, but it also gives an opportunity to witness the aging potential for Petite Sirah.   Despite the smooth mouth feel of the 2004 Petite Sirah, my fondness for 2005 fruit won over.  I knew that I was smitten with the 2005 Petite Sirah, that I wanted to spend a little more time with it and like any new love, get to know it a little bit better.

Markham’s 2005 Petite Sirah is coy, yet enchanting like the initial moments of a new found love.   Its nose is characterized by aromas of dark blackberry, spice and white pepper while exhibiting a certain earthiness and traces of eucalyptus and leather.   In the mouth, the wine begins its process of slowly revealing its potential as pepper notes dance across the palate and bits of mocha dust flirt with undeniable blackberry fruit.   The combination of these elements presents a noticeably bold wine:  complete with a structure akin to a “strong silent type” and a finish which slowly smoothes, intoxicatingly hinting of the wine’s ability to age and where this new relationship may go.   Markham’s bold, rich, complex 2005 Petite Sirah is distinctly masculine and it provocatively causes one to swoon.

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Food pairings can be varied with Petite Sirah but thoughtfulness is owed if one wants to highlight the complex nuances found within the wine itself.    Like the early stages of a new relationship, extra effort is worthwhile and in such spirit, this week’s menu holds:

1)      Roasted Chicken With Mole Poblano; and

2)     Roasted Marinated Asparagus.

Petite Sirah meets its spirited match with Mole Poblano.  The actual origins of Mole Poblano, much like Petite Sirah, is disputed, but throughout Mexico it has been recognized for centuries as an acclaimed rich, spiced sauce which dares to blend chocolate and chilies (among other ingredients).  Blending chocolate and spice seems like a culinary battle, yet when the dust settles, the result is a rich sauce capable of complexity compatible only with Petite Sirah.  The making of Mole Poblano is complicated and time consuming; however, when properly prepared the sauce is rich and best served over roasted chicken.

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Last week a thoughtful friend was kind enough to bring me some freshly picked Meyer Lemons.   The Meyer Lemon is one of my favorite culinary weapons as it is fragrant with a perfume different than that of the traditional lemon and boasts a bright, rich, clean and less acidic flavor.   Since the roasted chicken will serve as a rich main course, a substantive vegetable side dish such as Roasted Marinated Asparagus will pair nicely and provide opportunity to use one of the newly acquired Meyer Lemons.  To give the asparagus some zip (prior to wrapping it in foil) it is marinated with a combination of chopped rosemary and thyme from the garden, minced shallot and garlic, a drizzle of olive oil and the juice of a Meyer Lemon.   Once wrapped, it is simply set in the oven to roast alongside the chicken breasts.

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Once completed and taken together, the meal is rich and complex like Markham’s 2005 Petite Sirah.   The Roasted Marinated Asparagus is refreshing, dynamic and slightly grassy in its flavoring as if to awaken the senses to all that spring has to offer in the near future.   When taken with the wine, the combination allows the wine’s dramatic dark berry fruit to tumble forth in all of its boldness.   The Roasted Chicken with Mole Poblano exceeds expectations as the chicken is moist, tender and succulently juicy and the sauce adds a lively rich spiced kick as only Mole Poblano can.   Markham’s 2005 Petite Sirah readily meets this culinary rodeo as it embraces the sweetness of the Mole Poblano with its fruit, wrangles the sauce’s spice with its slight tartness and ultimately vanquishes the mole itself with its peppery smooth finish.

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The meal and the Markham 2005 Petite Sirah taken together trigger romanticized American images of masculinity leaving one to wonder if John Wayne will grace the dinner party or if cigars, poker and well-intentioned bravado will follow after.   Regardless of the image, a glass of Petite Sirah will captivate one’s senses and spur one’s creativity.  Spend a little more time with it, get to know it better and realize that Petite Sirah is the grape that great wines are made of.

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Feb 18 2010

Perfectly Pleasing Port

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Port, that pleasing after dinner wine, is best known for its sweeter and “fortified” representation of your favorite wine grape.  Like any other wine, no two ports are alike and can vary greatly.   First, there are four primary types of port:  (i) vintage (which is a single grape port and often very expensive); (ii) ruby (which is bottled young so it is ruby in color, fruit-forward and less expensive); (iii) tawny (which blends grapes of varying ages and can be a blend of ruby and white ports); and (iv) white (which is bottled young and uses white wine grapes).  Then, the style of port could use any one of several grapes such as cabernet sauvignon, petite sirah, sangiovese, tempranillo, malvasia or zinfandel (among others).   And finally, the next notable difference is determined by how the winemaker has elected to “fortify” the port.

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For port purists, the traditional style of winemaking involves the infusion of distilled grape spirits (as opposed to brandy or some other liqueur).   The grape alcohol is added to the wine halfway through the fermentation process which in turn actually stops the fermentation process, raises the alcohol level but maintains the fruit and sugar in the wine.   If brandy or some other liqueur is added to the port, a “hot” sensation in mouth can result.   Grape alcohol will not necessarily have this effect.   This can be important in personal preference because port alcohol contents are generally higher (ranging typically from 18% to 20%).

Vincent Arroyo Winery (“Vincent Arroyo”), located outside of Calistoga in Napa Valley, produces a petite sirah port which incorporates the traditional style of infusing grape alcohol.   The 2007 Petite Sirah Port is a beautiful jewel-toned ruby hue in the glass.   Taking in the bouquet of the port, the nose is not overwhelmed by the smell of alcohol (as it can be with other ports).   Instead, there is the subtle hint of the petite sirah grape (a dark rich grape which is capable of aromas of mocha, earth and dark berry fruit).   On the palate, the port is sweet but not overly which allows the rich characteristics of the petite sirah grape to come forth with representations of a blackberry or black raspberry jam blushed of blueberry.   In the mouth, the port mesmerizes the senses as it is very smooth and demonstrates a seamless balance of the grape alcohol and wine such that there is no evidence of a “hot finish” (nor should there be).    Given the harmonious balance of this port, it is alone is a true treat and a remarkable representation of how a port should convey itself.   However, it should be noted that it is equally special because of the particular grapes used.   Vincent Arroyo, passionate about growing petite sirah, is renown in Napa Valley for making fine quality petite sirah wines which frequently sell out soon after bottling.

When considering food pairings with port, the immediate consideration is chocolate, chocolate and more chocolate.   Depending on the grape involved, port can pair wonderfully with blue cheese or stilton cheeses.   Given that this port is made from petite sirah grapes (which naturally go well with chocolate and blueberries), this week’s pairing is a dessert:

·         Blueberry Pecan Cake With Chocolate Drizzle

One of the distinct characteristics about Vincent Arroyo’s petite sirah wines is that they often reflect a certain earthy quality which can easily be attributed to the soil where the grapes are grown.   While mulling over dessert recipes, it seemed intuitive to include a nut to accentuate the earthy notes of the port.  Finely chopped pecan would offer such proper flavoring which would be capable of demonstrating the earthier notes of the port without overwhelming the remainder of the cake.    The flavor of blueberries are compatible with the fruit in the port and also bring forth the wine’s “blush of blueberry” to give it overall more depth.  While my blueberry plant is loaded with ripening berries, I elected to use frozen berries which functioned formidably and tastily.

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Taken together with the 2007 Petite Sirah Port, the cake is a pleasant pairing and its consistency and substance helps to offset the alcohol content in the wine which is only 17%.  The tartness of the blueberries in the cake is balanced by the sweetness of the petite sirah port.    Equally, because the cake is not overly rich or sugary, it allows the port’s natural sweetness to take center stage and not attack one’s senses with a sugar overload.

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Sitting down with a friend and catching up on current events with such a pleasing port and slice of cake is a perfect way to spend a late winter’s evening.

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Feb 10 2010

To Alicante, With Love

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Generally those who appreciate wine have an obscure grape that they each hold dear.   For me, that grape is Alicante Bouschet.   Presently, less than one percent of the grape is planted in California and it is difficult to find a vintage made with one hundred percent of the grape.   Alicante Bouschet was not originally obscure as during the Prohibition it was widely planted throughout California for permitted home winemaking.   Since some state temperance laws allowed people to make wine for personal purposes, individuals in Northern States would buy grapes from warmer states in the South to make homemade wine.   Given Alicante Bouschet’s hearty and rugged nature, it served as an excellent candidate for cross-country train travel thus providing aspiring wine enthusiasts the opportunity to make wine in their garages during the Prohibition.

Despite the lack of plantings in California (and the United States for that matter), Alicante Bouschet is also unique in its origin as it is a hybrid not just once, but twice of other grapes.   In France in 1866, a viticulturist named Henri Bouschet cross-bred Grenache and Petit Bouschet to create Alicante Bouschet.   Petit Bouschet, however, would not have existed had his father Louis not cross-bred two entirely different grapes (being Teinturier du Cher and Aramon) to create that grape in 1824.  As complicated and time-consuming as these steps may sound, the results produced a unique grape.

Unlike most other grapes used to make red wine, Alicante Bouschet’s flesh and juice are both red.  As a grape, its reputation is the “reddest of all reds” and once made into wine it is regarded as the “blackest of the black”.   Of those grapevines presently in existence, the Alicante Bouschet grapes produced thereof are still hearty.   They are tannic by nature and capable of strong acidity.  A recent release of an Alicante Bouschet wine is not for the meek.   On the other hand, if a bottle is set aside and stored properly, those same tannins and acidity can allow a wine to age and soften in the bottle for a long time to come.   Frequently Alicante Bouschet is used to add dark, deep coloring to red wines or wines often referred to as “mixed black” wines.   It is not common to find the grape made in a singular grape vintage as it is often criticized as being flabby or lacking much character.    If found made well, the grape will romance the senses with dark fruit and bold spices.

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In Sonoma County, Mayo Family Winery (“Mayo”) takes pride in specializing in single grape and/or single vineyard wine productions.   Additionally, Mayo also enjoys making lesser known varietals, one being Alicante Bouschet.   Mayo’s 2006 Alicante Bouschet features fruit from the Cloud 9 Vineyard in the Russian River Valley.   The vineyard, known for its hot days and cool fog chilled evenings is a pleasant area for Alicante Bouschet.   Opening a bottle, allowing it to decant a bit and then sampling the dark, alluring wine will lull the senses and truly put one on a proverbial “cloud 9”.

The nose of Mayo’s 2006 Alicante Bouschet is dark, mystical and romantic with aromas of blackberry, leather, cigar box and a hint of black licorice.   On the palate, the wine keenly demonstrates the grape’s traditional characteristic blend of tannins and acidity, reflecting flavors akin to tart blackberry juice yet dressed with pepper and spice.

Food pairings with Alicante Bouschet can be a challenge as the greatest hurdle is taking an otherwise dark tannic wine and finding the right food to offset its acidity (which never lets you forget its presence).    While grilled meats would fare well typically with a dark tannic red wine, do not forget tomato-based sauces as the tomato’s acidity will pair well with the acidity that is found in the wine.   Taking this into consideration, this week’s food pairing simply holds:

·         Valentine Prosciutto Pasta With Vodka Sauce and Peas

Given the approach of Valentine’s Day and that I am featuring an obscure grape of which I am fond, call me sentimental but heart-shaped pasta seemed fitting.   Aside from culinary romantic gestures to which Alicante Bouschet can move me, pasta was going to be essential given the need for a tomato-based recipe to offset the wine’s acidity.

Electing to prepare a vodka sauce is equally intentional as its partial cream base lessens the tomato acidity that would be normally found in red pasta sauces.   The lessening matches better to the wine (in my opinion) and further, the richness of the cream sensually pairs to the rich dark nature of Alicante Bouschet.

To dress up the vodka sauce, prosciutto and cipollini onions are sautéed and added.   Cipollini onions are small, flat and generally sweeter in their flavor.  Their texture is also paper thin so upon light sautéing, they will compatibly match the thin consistency of the prosciutto.   The sweet flavor of the cipollini onions helps to balance out the tartness of the wine as well.    Using bits of prosciutto in the vodka sauce adds a unique component.  Despite its slightly salty taste, the meat has a distinct floral after taste of lavender and an aroma of rose petal.   Finally, to add color, sweetness and vegetable to the dish, heated peas are gently tossed in among the pasta and sauce.

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Enjoying the wine with the meal, the tomato acidity matches that of the wine (almost to the point of cancelling each other’s acidity out).   This in turn permits the spices found within the wine to awaken, become lively, and exhibit more peppered notes.  The sweetness of the peas in amid the pasta offsets the tart aspects of the Alicante Bouschet and the prosciutto distracts the tannins to a more manageable level.  Admiring the wine in the glass, it is dark, mysterious and seductively romantic.   Indescribably bold and spiced, Alicante Bouschet is a wine with its own unique characteristics and flaws such that it is a beauty in the palate of the beholder.

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Feb 03 2010

To Oak or Unoak, ‘Tis the Question for Chardonnay

Published by under Chardonnay,Fish,Food,White Wine

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Throughout California, chardonnay grapes are planted abundantly and by the late 1980’s surpassed the number of plantings in France.   With so much competition, Chardonnay varies greatly by winemaker and depending on the aging process, the styles can be dizzying:  oaked, over-oaked, tannic, unoaked, buttery, flinty, creamy, vanilla, citrus, honey, melon, butterscotch, green apple, nutty, bubblegum … to name a few.  

So what makes a good Chardonnay?

Just like with any other wine, balance makes a good Chardonnay.   The grape itself is easily manipulated and terrior, climate and style of aging or vinifying can greatly influence the wine.  Chardonnays, typically “oaked” in California, over the last several years have started to emerge with popularity as “unoaked”.   The terminology is as straight-forward as it sounds.   If a winemaker is electing to make its Chardonnay in a “unoaked” style, the wine will be made in stainless steel as opposed to oak.  By doing so, the wine is very crisp (often described as “precise”), light and characterized by distinct refreshing minerality.

Unoaked Chardonnay in California is similar to Chardonnay found in the Chablis region of France.   Rarely will Chardonnays in the Chablis region go through malolactic fermentation or be exposed to oak barreling.   While at first blush this may seem like a simplistic way to make Chardonnay it is generally considered to be the truest and purest expression of the grape itself.   Unoaked Chardonnays are fermented only in stainless steel.   The result is like those of the Chablis region, simple, straight-forward, clean, crisp, light and generally characterized by green apple, melon or citrus fruit on the palate.  With Unoaked Chardonnay you will not find the big creamy, vanilla, toasted oak, or butterscotch notes.

Chardonnay can also be exposed in oak and subjected to malolactic fermentation which perhaps may seem like a traditional Chardonnay to the average connoisseur.   These wines are considered to be “Oaked Chardonnay” and depending on how much exposure to the oak and the type of oak (French or American) can greatly affect the flavor, structure and mouth feel of the wine.   This style of Chardonnay does typically reflect vanilla, butterscotch, creaminess, oak or butterscotch.    All of these elements do not actually come from the grape itself but instead from the oak aging or barreling and exposure to malolactic fermentation (which reduces the natural acidity of the grape).   This mainstream sounding style of Chardonnay hails originally from Burgandy, France.   And it is also this same style which can run the risk of being flabby, lacking structure and style.    If there is too much exposure to oak, the flavor and structure of the wine can be lackluster.    Without question, careful winemaking is necessary.

So which one is better?

There is not a definitive answer as to which style of Chardonnay is “better”.  The “Unoaked Chardonnay” and the traditional “Oaked Chardonnay” are two separate styles such that the wines almost taste like two separate grapes.  It truly does depend on the individual palate, preference and often on the meal being served.   To help demonstrate this, a friend provided me with a bottle each of Mer Soleil Vineyard’s (“Mer Soleil”) 2007 “Silver” Chardonnay and its 2007 “Gold” Chardonnay.   Mer Soleil’s actual vineyard is located in the Santa Lucia Highlands of Monterey County.   It ties back to Napa Valley given that its winemaker is Chuck Wagner II, the son of Chuck Wagner Sr. of famed Caymus Winery (“Caymus”) in Napa Valley.  Much like the Caymus philosophy of “one wine, one label”, Mer Soleil focuses only on Chardonnay, producing one unoaked and one oaked.    Since Mer Soleil makes quality representation of both styles, it serves as the perfect example to compare and contrast.

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First up is the 2007 Silver Chardonnay.   As the bottle opens, the nose is met immediately by refreshing citrus, lemon blossom and green apple aromas.   This is a great sign because the wine has not even been poured yet.   While opening the bottle, it is noted that its closure is a “screw cap”, which (as discussed in an earlier article) can in some instances better preserve the aromas of the wine.   In this case, that is clearly evident.   In the glass, the 2007 Silver Chardonnay is much lighter in its gold coloring than a traditionally perceived Chardonnay and if inspected closely, it has a pale green tint.   As it greets the palate, a lively acidity is noted along with flavors of honeydew melon, pineapple, a hint of tangerine and a distinct flinty minerality.  Immediate carefree sunny afternoon images are triggered, complete with a whimsical oceanic breeze and sunlight dancing upon the Pacific’s waves such that there is nothing on the agenda but lively late afternoon entertaining with good company and light seafood fare such as scallops or a tangy fish taco.

Next up is the 2007 Gold Chardonnay.  Opening the bottle, there is not the immediate “greet your nose” experience as with the 2007 Silver Chardonnay, but that does not lessen this wine by any means.   Instead, from the moment the bottle is opened, to the wine hitting the glass and your nose thereafter intuitively searching closer, the aromas are present albeit seductively subtle.   Coaxing the senses, the aromas of stone fruit, honeysuckle, citrus blossom, lightly toasted oak, spice, and a hint of vanilla greet the nose and beckon the palate to explore.  On the palate, nuances of stone fruit continue, with a splash of tangerine, a dash of spice and the accompaniment of a readily present structure (which is a more than pleasant surprise as structure is painfully missing from many California Chardonnays).   Yet, perhaps my favorite aspect of this wine is the clear taste of freshly-picked ripe yellow peach on the palate that continues to linger in the wine’s finish long after one’s expectations would have such that one savors and pauses before reaching back for the wine glass.  Sitting back to reflect, the 2007 Gold Chardonnay sparkles in dining candlelight reminiscent of sunshine on a late summer wine country afternoon.

Both the 2007 Silver Chardonnay and the 2007 Gold Chardonnay will pair well with food.   Reason being, both are balanced wines.   While acidity is present in the 2007 Silver Chardonnay, it does not overwhelm the palate and will truly hold up with light seafood dishes without dominating.  Thinking of other seafood, such as salmon, and mildly wintery fare which will transition nicely into spring, the 2007 Gold Chardonnay will pair delightfully with this week’s selected menu:

·         Phyllo-Wrapped Salmon on a Mushroom Medley with Dijon Vinaigrette

Selecting phyllo dough to wrap the salmon is intentional for flavor.   Puff pastry dough is heavier with more butter and given the balanced oak nature of the 2007 Gold Chardonnay, phyllo dough (which is far lighter) is the intuitive paired choice.   Brushing the phyllo dough with a butter blend (again to keep the flavors lighter), the skinless boneless salmon is wrapped and then sautéed.

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Next prepared is a Mushroom Medley using a blend of porcini, crimini, and button mushrooms.  Sautéed first are minced shallot and garlic.   Prior to sautéing the mushroom medley, it is roasted in the oven.   Once roasted in a butter blend, the mushrooms are next sautéed with some of the 2007 Silver Chardonnay and a combination of freshly picked thyme from the patio, parsley and pepper.

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Finally, the Dijon Vinaigrette is prepared incorporating (among other ingredients) the juice of a fresh lime, Dijon mustard, soy sauce, fresh chives from the patio and olive oil.

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To properly plate, the Salmon is placed atop the Mushroom Medley and drizzled with a bit of the Dijon Vinaigrette.

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The result is decadent and it electrifies the senses.  The combination of the fatty nature of the salmon, the mild buttery flavor of the slightly crisp phyllo dough, the herbs, the wine sautéed mushrooms and the citrus in the Dijon Vinaigrette, equate to sensory overload with a hope that the meal will never end.   The 2007 Gold Chardonnay pairs beautifully with this meal since it is balanced and not overwhelmed by big oak and overly buttery flavors.   The fresh lime juice in the Dijon Vinaigrette actually accentuates the fruit nuances in the wine.   And as each bite finishes, the sip of wine lingers with that light freshly picked ripe peach flavor serving as a natural palate cleanser.

As Napa Valley sits presently in 60 degree temperatures, it is searching for spring amidst the mustard blooms and it is on the cusp of dreaming for warmer weather.   Typically ideal for Chardonnay, these temperatures are neither too hot, nor too cold but just right for this style of white wine.   Yet open a bottle of Mer Soleil (whether Silver or Gold) and reminisce of everything dreamy that California has to offer because if that could be captured in a bottle, it is here and miraculously in both styles of the wine resulting in the quintessential California Chardonnay.

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