Generally when visiting tasting rooms at wineries throughout Napa Valley I overhear all things imaginable:  a tourist wondering what “big game” can be hunted in the valley, others lamenting how they have no self-discipline to cellar but discipline to consume, brash statements of “this” is a “good” cabernet sauvignon (without regard to the differences in AVA-produced fruit), etc.   Normally, all of these “overheards” are taken in harmless stride, overlooked with humor and if nothing else, the mere hopeful nod that people are indeed curious and excited to learn about wine.   There is, however, one exception.   There is an exception to all of this “free to be you and me” wine connoisseur advocacy where any veteran in the industry will cringe:   the slaughtering of the pronunciation of “Meritage”.

Meritage, pronounced “mehr-ih-tihj”  is truly the combination of the words “merit” and “heritage”.   If you hear anyone attempting to put some sort of self-derived French pronounced ending on “Meritage”, stop listening, for that wine blowhard most likely knows little about Meritage wines.  

The use of the word “Meritage” is quite intentional and there is nothing casual about it whatsoever.   Officially instituted in 1989 with registration with the United States Patents and Trademark Office (“USPTO”), a group of winemakers developed the terminology in 1988 with the intention of creating a specific category of American blended wines using Bordeaux varietal grapes.   Once the name “Meritage” was chosen, the Meritage Association was off to the races to categorize Bordeaux blends made in the United States.  

There are many rules to what constitutes a “Meritage” and equally just as many overheard myths in tasting rooms.   The misstatements to what truly constitutes a “Meritage” can be forgiven in casual conversation but among vintners, the rules must be strictly adhered to in order for the wine to officially constitute a “Meritage”.   If by personal nature you are a nut for rules and details, Meritage may be the style of wine for you:

1)      It must be a blend of two or more Bordeaux grapes:

(a)  For red Meritage, these grapes consist of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Carmenere, Gros Verdot, Petit Verdot and St. MacCaire; and

(b)  For white Meritage, (yes, WHITE MERITAGE does exist) these grapes are fewer consisting of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Muscadelle; provided that,

(c)  For either a Red Meritage or a White Meritage, no more than 90% of any single Bordeaux grape variety may go into a wine;

2)     It must be the best wine of its type produced at said winery;

3)     It must be produced by a United States winery from grapes that are from an appellation in the United States;  and

4)     Production is limited to 25,000 cases of the said Meritage per vintage year.

Once approved to use the “Meritage” name (recalling that it is registered with the USPTO, thereby requiring permission to use the name, which means, yes, it must adhere with all of the rules listed above), it may be used in conjunction with the winery’s name or some proprietary name associated therewith.

Now that the rules are set forth, you can begin to imagine how Meritage wines can vary (particularly those that are made with red Bordeaux grape varietals).   Commonly wineries in Napa and Sonoma Valleys will use Cabernet Sauvignon grapes in a red Meritage, but that is not a prerequisite and it is possible to find other combinations.

One combination, which may be a bit unique to California, focuses predominantly on Cabernet Franc with the addition of Merlot and Malbec.   This combination, however, is not uncommon in France (most notably made by Cheval Blanc).   Collecting grapes from the southwestern face of the Mayacamas Mountains (which are the western/eastern border between Sonoma and Napa counties), Mayo Family Winery in Sonoma Valley produces a Meritage as an homage to Cheval Blanc’s famous cepage.    For those fans of the movie “Sideways”, the character Miles is drinking the famous 1961 vintage of Cheval Blanc’s cepage at the end of the movie.   “Sideways” fan or not, Mayo Family Winery’s 2005 “The White Horse” Meritage (“White Horse Meritage”) presently is just deliciously smooth and silky.

When originally released for sale, the 2005 White Horse Meritage was described as having significant tannins.   However, given that it is now April of 2010, the wine has had just enough time to settle in the bottle and the tannins initially described have since softened.   Mayo Family Winery purposefully created this Meritage with the intent of emulating Cheval Blanc’s cepage.  It similarly consists of 66% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot and 1% Malbec.   Given the blending of the Cabernet Franc and Merlot, it is understandable that the wine would start to soften and teasingly show off a silky quality that will only continue to develop in the bottle with continued aging.

The 2005 White Horse Meritage shows off a romantic nose consisting of soft floral violet notes with fruit reminiscent of black cherry and currant and a subtle hint of oak.   In the mouth, as previously mentioned, the wine has a slight silky feel with well-blended dark fruit and a dash of white pepper on the finish.    The tannins have softened such that as a red wine it is very accessible and open to a variety of food pairings.

As discussed in earlier articles, when creating food pairings for wine, the mere color of the wine does not necessarily dictate the type of protein to be used.   As a general rule of thumb, poultry and fish do pair better with white wine.   However, if the tannins are soft and balanced, certain poultry dishes and certain fish can successfully be paired with red wine.   Given that the tannins in the 2005 White Horse Meritage are soft and silky, this week’s menu boldly hosts:

·        Stuffed Chicken Breasts with Red Wine Reduction Sauce; and

·        Wild Mushroom Herbed Couscous.

Red wine and chicken may be one thing, but red wine reduction sauce and chicken?   Before you recoil in disbelief, there are three words to remember:   coq au vin.    Yes, coq au vin is that French recipe of roasting chicken in a red wine reduction sauce that was popularly made famous in the United States by Julia Child.   When I originally tasted the 2005 White Horse Meritage this week, it was a natural reaction to want to pair chicken with red wine and given the softness of the tannins in the wine, it seemed wholly appropriate that a red wine reduction sauce would pair well.   Only after I had tested some things in the kitchen did it dawn on me that indeed that here was a classic French styled red wine and by natural chance I was creating something similar to the classic French recipe coq au vin.    Intuition aside, to truly flush out nuances in this particular wine, I took the pairing one step further and elected to create a stuffed chicken breast.

Given the nuances of juicy dark fruit, pepper, charred oak and soft tannins, I elected to stuff the chicken breasts with a combination of chopped steamed broccoli, provolone cheese (due to its mildness), marjoram (which is the softer cousin of oregano) and a chopped roma tomato (which had been sautéed in a bit of black raspberry vinegar).    Including the tomato was intentional because it lent a hint of acidity (which matches the acidity that I typically find in Mayo Family Winery’s wines) and similarly adds a bit of juicy bright flavor, which complements the bright dark fruit that is found in the wine.   Broccoli, provolone, and marjoram were chosen due to their soft textures and to add an earthy vegetal component to the pairing.  The stuffed chicken breasts were baked in a combination of chicken stock and dry red wine to ensure that the poultry would remain juicy.  Add mushrooms sautéed in the red wine reduction sauce, the pairing was sensationally delectable.

Wine as always is about what you enjoy, however, if you enjoy the game of rules and the puzzle of determining what you can taste in American blending techniques of Bordeaux grapes, explore Meritage wines.   And this summer when you are out visiting the wineries, when you hear that self-professed wine snob mispronouncing “Meritage”, simply smile politely and discretely back away.    Cheers!

As Napa Valley prepares to wave goodbye to winter and revels at the wildflowers bursting along the edges of Highway 29 and the Silverado Trail, dreams of fresh, clean flavors spring forth and the palate begins to warm to white wines.   Still not warm enough yet for the bright acidity and lemongrass nature of Sauvignon Blancs, one wine in particular made in an off-dry style suits those first weeks of spring:   Chenin Blanc.

Chenin Blanc originates from (and still thrives in) the Loire Valley region of France.   The Loire Valley region is a vast 625 miles which meanders along the Loire River.   The Loire River itself begins its origin in the Rhone area of France and flows onward north, east and then southwesternly to ultimately reach the Atlantic Ocean.   Two areas along the Loire River (Vouvray and Montlouis) are particularly renowned for producing award-winning Chenin Blanc.   California, always hoping to compete with France’s winemaking endeavors, out planted France in the 1980’s with Chenin Blanc and back in those days, it was common to find such vines planted throughout Napa Valley.   As American whim shifted to prefer Chardonnay, many of these plantings of Chenin Blanc were pulled to make room for other grapes.   Today in Napa Valley it is a challenge to find Chenin Blanc made, let alone estate grown.   However, just like any other wine, when it is made well, it is a treat and adds variance to one’s cellar collection and scope of food pairings. 

Chenin Blanc (like Gewürztraminer) can be made dry or off-dry.   The off-dry style will lend a slightly sweeter white wine which pairs intuitively with spicy food.   While an off-dry Chenin Blanc might be described as “sweet”, it is really “semi-sweet” and for those who do not enjoy the overly sugary nature of most dessert wines, an off-dry Chenin Blanc can instead serve as the perfect aperitif or after-dinner wine.   While next month I will feature an actual estate-grown Chenin Blanc which hails from special old vines, this week I am featuring a fun off-dry Chenin Blanc from a different winery (which does not use estate grown grapes).  

Goosecross Cellars (“Goosecross”) in Yountville offers an off-dry Chenin Blanc which delights the palate with nuances of pear, honeydew melon and honeysuckle.   While the grapes are not estate grown, they are from old vines in  Napa Valley and year after year, this Chenin Blanc does not disappoint.   The 2008 Chenin Blanc offers a blend of characteristic high acidity and sweetness.  This sweetness is typical of off-dry Chenin Blanc and is akin to a sprinkle of sugar flirting with your palate.   Given its high acidity, the wine presents a clean nature to the palate and its fruit flavors of predominant pear and mild pleasant finish of honeydew melon appropriately fit with the start of spring.

Given that the 2008 Chenin Blanc by Goosecross is off-dry, it will pair well with spicy food.  For lovers of Thai food (such as chicken pad thai noodles), this is a simple straight-forward pick for such a food pairing.  However, if you are looking for a dish which is equally clean in flavors to the wine paired, vegetarians and the health-conscience rejoice for this week’s menu holds:

·         Vegetarian Stuffed Roasted Red Peppers

Red Peppers are the perfect vegetable to pair with an off-dry Chenin Blanc, such as that made by Goosecross.   While they are spicy, they are not overwhelmingly so and the semi-sweet nature of the Chenin Blanc nicely cuts that spice.   Once the peppers have been roasted over a gas flame, they are stuffed with a mixture of cooked brown rice, black beans, green onions, fresh-picked thyme from the garden, sautéed garlic and tomatoes, and the juice of a Meyer Lemon.   To add tangy acidity, a bit of an herbed creamy chevre cheese is added to the mixture and atop the stuffed peppers.   Once baked in the oven, they are ready to serve and the perfect accompaniment to the 2008 off-dry Chenin Blanc.

The result is a light, satisfying meal.   As anticipated, the wine’s slight sweetness engages the spice of the roasted red pepper and garlic while simultaneously serving as a soul mate for the tangy and creamy nature of the herbed chevre.   The addition of Meyer Lemon and fresh picked thyme to the brown rice mixture makes the flavors pop and the acidity of the tomato gives a subtle nod to the acidity in the Chenin Blanc made by Goosecross.   The wine is not lost alongside the food by any means and instead surprises the palate with an unsuspected palate cleanser in the form of a fresh glimmering finish of pear and honeydew melon.

Given the light nature of the meal, it is imperative to note that the Goosecross 2008 Chenin Blanc pairs in the balanced respect of its alcohol content.   With only an alcohol content of 11.7%, pairing a light meal with the wine will not leave you (or your dinner guests) on the floor after a glass or two.   Instead, it is a near guiltless, clean meal and wine pairing which embraces the spirit of spring and all that bursts anew with life and hope.

There is an excitement in the air this week in Napa Valley.   Is it an exclusive, fancy event?  No.   Is it the presence of some major celebrity chef?   No.   It is the mere simple presence of… bud break!    The first of many tiny green leaves have emerged on the grape vines and signal a burst of elation for wine country as spring begins.   Those small green leaves represent the start of another season of wine grapes and the vintages to come.   Indeed it is a sweet sense of celebration and what better way to acknowledge it than with a bottle of Bubbles.

Festive are Bubbles and no two bottles are created equally.   Aside from the grapes selected, sparkling wine generally is classified by its level of sweetness.  Prior to the final corking, a dosage (specifically, a shipping dosage) is added to the bottle of sparkling wine.    The dosage is a sugar-wine mixture.   The wine added to the dosage is typically part of the original wine used to make the sparkling wine which has been reserved.   Depending on how much sugar is added to the dosage will determine the sweetness of the sparkling wine. 

While all of that sounds straight-forward, how do you determine the level of sweetness in your Bubbles?   It is actually blatantly displayed on the label:   extra brut; brut; extra sec or extra dry; sec; demi-sec; or doux.   If a sparkling wine is “extra brut” it is generally totally dry to very dry, containing less than 0.6 percent sugar.   A “brut” sparkling wine (being very dry to almost dry) contains less than 1.5 percent sugar.    Slightly sweeter is the “extra sec” or “extra dry” which contains 1.2 to 2 percent sugar.   Described as a medium sweet sparkling wine, “sec” contains 1.7 to 3.5 percent sugar.   Falling towards the end of the spectrum is “demi-sec” which is described as sweet and contains 3.3 to 5 percent sugar and “doux” (being very sweet) contains over 5 percent sugar.   “Demi-sec” and “Doux” sparkling wines are generally considered dessert wines in the world of Bubbles.   However, should “demi-sec” wines be limited to being served with dessert?

While a “demi-sec” sparkling wine pairs easily with desserts, its sugar content can be used to seamlessly pair with certain spicy fare.   “Demi-sec” sparkling wines are not commonly found in Napa Valley but from time to time, Domaine Carneros makes one named “Vermeil”.   The 2005 Vermeil Demi-Sec is lightly sweetened and uniquely involves two of Domaine Carneros’ wines:  its traditional Brut and an overlay of its renowned Le Rêve sparkling wine.  Its nose offers tantalizing aromas of apricot, honeysuckle, apples and citrus.   In the mouth, the wine is fuller but it is not overwhelmingly sweet (unlike many traditional dessert wines).  With slight notes of almond, vanilla and caramel, the wine has a rich smooth feel and its light sweet nature dances across the palate.   Since the sugar creates a light sweetness, it is easy to envision spicy food pairings to fit alongside this wine.   With this in mind, this week’s menu holds:

1)      Grilled Salmon in a Mango-Ginger-Habanero Marinade;

2)     Herbed Pearl Couscous With Garlic, Meyer Lemon and Peas; and

3)     Baked Honeyed Berry Nectarine Puff Pastry.

While a demi-sec sparkling wine will pair well with spicy fare, to create a copasetic food pairing, it is best if a fruit sauce is involved.   A mango-ginger-habanero marinade embraces the best of both worlds with the sweet nature of mango, the refreshing heat of ginger and the feisty spice of the habanero chile.   Grilling the salmon on a smoky charcoal grill adds flavorful depth and the light nature of fish intuitively pairs with sparkling wine.  Neither the fish nor the Vermeil demi-sec outweighs the other in flavor or texture.   Instead it is almost as if each has met its soulful match.   

To further add dimension and texture to the meal, the grilled salmon is placed upon a bed of herbed pearl couscous.    The pearl couscous has a semi-soft texture yet is firm.   Deliciously seasoned with herbs, garlic and meyer lemon, the pearl couscous is also tossed with steamed peas.    When paired with the Vermeil demi-sec, the sweetness of the steamed peas mirrors the sugar in the wine and the wine’s clean lingering finish flirts with the notes of meyer lemon in the pearl couscous.

Since the featured sparkling wine is a demi-sec and traditionally a dessert wine, a menu would be remiss without the pairing of something sweet to finish the meal.    While demi-sec sparkling wines pair well with recipes involving fruit, the type of fruit selected should be a careful decision.   Using stone fruit is a good start and narrowing the selection to baked yellow nectarine truly captures the flavors in the Vermeil demi-sec and enhances the fruit and floral aromas of the wine.   Puff pastry is dressed with raspberry honey and adorned with fresh raspberries (which are presently seasonal) and blueberries picked from the back patio.  This not only creates a flavorful and mildly sweet dessert, but is a great way to start spring by utilizing fresh produce and the concept of sustainability.   Controlling the sugar content of the dessert and relying instead on the natural sugar of honey and fresh fruit emulates the same degree of sweetness found in the sparkling wine.

In the end, experimenting with a sweeter sparkling wine is a rewarding culinary adventure.   It spices up traditional pairings and introduces the palate to a luxuriously refined, yet less dry wine.   With the newfound energy of spring and the optimism of bud break in Napa Valley, the senses awaken from winter and it is the perfect time to explore all things creatively culinary.

Pretense so often accompanies the wine industry.   It is inevitable and there will always be a certain segment of the population that likes a certain amount of pretense in their wine.   But is it necessary?   Not really.   As you have followed my articles over the last year, you have realized that much about wine is generally graspable, comprehensible and moreover, consumable.   So what happens when you are confronted with a wine that has a French name, not readily translatable, and for that matter, you are not even sure what grape is in it?   Well, if you are fortunate enough to visit the winery in question, you simply pepper the hospitality staff with direct questions.   If you do not have the wine industry readily at your whim to answer your every grape-related question, the answer is simple:   you rely on your own palate.    At the end of the day, fancy name, fancy label, unpronounceable name, whatever the case may be, it only matters if you like the wine.  

To experiment with this, this week I am featuring a wine from Elyse Winery (“Elyse”) called “Le Corbeau”.   Typically, I launch into a fact-driven dissertation about what the grape actually is, where it hails from, its history, its suitability to grow well in Napa Valley, and so on and so forth.   But instead, this time, I am going to just open the bottle and follow my senses:  see what I find and determine based on sense, what will go with this wine.

The vintage of Elyse’s Le Corbeau that I have selected is from 2004.    This means that the wine has aged and been in the bottle for approximately six years.   Opening the bottle, the nose is greeted by an aromatic twist of smoke and red rose petals, followed by scents of raspberries and red fruit.  Its nose lilts past, almost like the gentle caress of a mid-summer Carneros breeze.  Its coloring is noted as rich, ruby and jewel-toned.  As it swirls in the glass amid evening late sunlight, it dazzles and enchants.  On the palate, the 2004 Le Corbeau is lush (which is from the benefit of aging) with a smooth, slightly velvety texture and subtly seduces the palate with flavors of plum, black raspberry, a hint of anise, smoky bacon and a dash of pepper.   Its finish is hauntingly coaxing and ends with a mysterious wink to encourage another decadent sip.

While Elyse presently offers a more recent release of Le Corbeau for tasting and sale, hanging onto a bottle for six years is a delightful treat.    The result with the 2004 Le Corbeau was a truly gorgeous wine which was well worth waiting for.

With such a stunning wine as the 2004 Le Corbeau, one might find himself or herself taken aback, unsure what to pair with it.    There are not the sturdy tannins (as found in many red wines) and acidity is negligible.   The wine itself is not bold, but it is distinctly solid in its presentation and its aromas and tastes keep unfolding and revealing themselves as the glass of wine is sipped.   Taking into account the nature of the wine, my food pairing is going to be straight-forward and intended to compliment:

·         Smoked Turkey, Bacon, Avocado Sandwich With Shallot-Cranberry Mayonnaise   

A sandwich?   Just a sandwich for this wine?  Yes.   Is this a guilty pleasure?   No.    Is it the quiet private appreciation for a truly remarkable unique wine that merits its own uncluttered stage on your palate?   Absolutely.    Would this ruffle the feathers of those who demand a dose of pretense with their wine?   Perhaps… or maybe you might find them enjoying something just as straight-forward in the quiet everyday of their own kitchens.    Welcome to the “speakeasy” world of food and wine pairing.

Choosing to use smoked turkey and bacon are quick and easy ways to accentuate the smoke nuances in the wine.   Depending on the palate, there is a slight bacon taste in Le Corbeau and using bacon (as obvious as it may seem) does help accentuate this characteristic in the wine.  Given the lack of tannins or acidity, a soft mild cheese such as provolone also pairs well.   A multigrain bread is not only healthy, but it also does not contain as much sugar which in turn means that it will not compete with the wine.   The wine is aged and has a soft, lush, smooth and almost velvety feel in the mouth; avocado and fresh butter lettuce from my vegetable garden will mimic these textures for the sandwich.   However, not to insult the wine, in fairness, I will add something to the sandwich to give it a little zip and a gourmet nod:   a shallot-cranberry mayonnaise.   Adding this livens the meal, compliments the fruit in the wine and brings out a bit of the spice and pepper in the wine.

This is clearly no ordinary sandwich.   The quiet underlying benefit of this sandwich is that it is packed with protein and with the carbohydrates of the bread, it holds up well to the 14.8% alcohol content of the 2004 Le Corbeau.

So what does “Le Corbeau” mean?   In French, it means the Raven.   For Edgar Allen Poe fans, it could poetically symbolize a haunting remembrance.  While it is easy to sit back and lose oneself pondering all that is sensually experienced in Elyse’s 2004 Le Corbeau, it is the combination of two grapes that make this gorgeous wine:  90% Grenache and 10% Syrah.   Grenache is typically higher in sugar content and loaded with berry flavors and lacks acidity or tannins.  Syrah adds a slightly darker dimension, a dash of backbone, smoke flavoring and coloring.  For those of you who cannot help yourselves and want the culinary glamour to accessorize your wine, think of lamb, duck, wild mushroom risotto, among others.   But for those of you, who know a good wine when you taste it, keep its culinary companion simple and let this wine stand forward in all of its own complex glory and savor its individuality.    Because when a wine is good, it is great.   And sometimes, that in and of itself is more than enough.

Generally I reserve warmer temperatures or seasons for drinking most white wines.   For me, I personally prefer a mid-70 degree day, the sunshine on my shoulders and a comfortable lounge chair as I sit back and sip a tropical-nosed white wine.   Sometimes, however, when a white wine has that certain proper kick of acidity, it can transcend seasons and easily become a wine suitable for winter or early spring.    One such wine can be a crisp, light, dry Pinot Grigio.

Pinot Grigio, as discussed last summer, is a white wine grape from the Pinot family.   Depending on the wine’s regional origin, it can either be referred to as Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio.    If it is made in the style typical of Northern Italy, it is referred to as Pinot Grigio and should be clean, light and crisp.  Laird Family Estate (“Laird”) currently has a limited production Napa Valley Pinot Grigio which is light, dry and crisp.   Its nose is delightful with tropical hints of pineapple, guava and banana.   In the mouth, the wine does not disappoint as it is clean, smooth and dry.   Its flavoring is predominantly pear with soft notes of melon but at the back of the palate there seemingly is a twist of lime.   This bit of lime on a snappy short finish is best attributed to the light acidity that dances across the palate.   There is no “mouth puckering” involved with this wine.  Laird’s Napa Valley Pinot Grigio is carefree and pleasantly characterized with relaxed simplicity.   While this may indeed be the perfect summer wine, it is also an ideal wine for light seafood pairings throughout the year.

If it were a warm June evening, I would be tempted to take Laird’s Napa Valley Pinot Grigio and create a white wine sangria for cocktails with friends on the back patio.    However, as our temperatures in Napa Valley are still a distance off from warm summer evenings, there is nothing better than creating a light meal or appetizer with seafood for casual entertaining.   This week’s pairing is simply:

·         Scallop Ceviche With a Salsa Cruda Over Avocado

Using miniature bay scallops for ceviche helps maintain the fish’s natural tenderness as there is less handling of the scallop itself.   Allowing the scallops to marinate in a combination of lime, garlic and minced shallot helps the fish cook while being refrigerated, which is ideal for the making of ceviche.   Scallops naturally pair well with light crisp white wines given their own light flavoring.   If paired with a white wine with an oak influence, the scallop’s natural flavor would be overpowered by the wine.   But pairing with a white wine such as Pinot Grigio is ideal.    Similarly, adding the prepared scallops to a salsa cruda (involving minced jalapeno, white onion, finely chopped cilantro, lime juice and chopped tomatoes) will continue to pair well with the Pinot Grigio.    Since the wine is characterized by acidity, the tomatoes and lime match well and yet the cilantro manages to simultaneously cut through that same acidity.   Finally serving the scallop ceviche with salsa cruda over half of an avocado tames any remaining overt acidity into an idyllic balance due to the buttery nature of the avocado.

Enjoying this simple fresh seafood dish with a glass of Laird’s Pinot Grigio is relatively guiltless and transports one back in time to days when no one was in a hurry to be anywhere.   And to me, that style of casual entertaining sounds welcomingly carefree and easily enjoyable no matter the season.