Earlier this year I featured chardonnays from another vintner in Napa Valley which I believe embrace and capture the nuances of the actual Chardonnay grape.   To prove that this feat is on the rise, prevalent and obtainable, I have selected another Chardonnay of similar style.

As I have in the past regaled the merits of merlot, I am an equally staunch advocate of clean, crisp Chardonnay.   I believe highly in the integrity of the grape in a wine and the talents of a vintner who can stand by the fruit used and gloriously flaunt the grape’s natural attributes without manipulation.   Few Chardonnays that I find that meet this standard; yet when I do find such a wine, anyone attending dinner is in for a treat.   One exemplary Chardonnay that excels above the rest is Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars’ 2007 Arcadia Chardonnay.

For those who enjoy a dose of history and meaning with their wine, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars is rich in history, tradition and California winemaking lore.   This is indeed the very same winery which won for its remarkable Cabernet Sauvignon in the famous 1976 blind tasting in Paris, France.   Those unaware, prior to 1976, French wine was hailed as the standard of excellence throughout the world and California wines had yet to formally compete on the French stage in comparison.   Once Warren Winiarski had won this historic Paris Wine Tasting of 1976, he was then later afforded opportunity to expand his holdings and acquire additional vineyards.  In 1996, he suitably expanded his parcels to include the Arcadia Vineyard which is the home to Chardonnay vines (and still owned by his family today).   Of interesting historical note, the Arcadia Vineyard was purchased by Warren Winiarski (“Winiarski”) from Mike Grgich (“Grgich”).   At the time that Winiarski’s Cabernet Sauvignon took first place at the historic 1976 Judgment of Paris, Grgich was the winemaker behind the famed Chateau Montelena’s Chardonnay which won first place for white wine.    Needless to state, Grgich knows his Chardonnay and thus there would be implied quality behind any vineyard that he might have owned.

“Quality” does not begin to adequately describe the 2007 Arcadia Chardonnay as its nose and mouth set it not only as a front-runner but in a league of its own.   Combining elegance and beauty, this wine (which consists of 100% Chardonnay) delights the senses and enchants the imagination.   In the glass, the wine cheerfully sparkles like clean sunlight and could brighten any dreary rain-filled spring day.  Romantically aromatic, the 2007 Arcadia Chardonnay entrances with its nose of orange blossom, cantaloupe melon, pear, warm pie crust and a fading nuance of meyer lemon.   In the mouth, the palate is further enamored with delicate notes of warm spiced pear, melon and a splash of meyer lemon to sparklingly linger on the finish.   While its flavors are as delicate as a well-orchestrated ballet, there is a distinguishing juicy aspect to the wine.   These characteristics, combined with understated oak and the absence of malolactic fermentation, delightfully lead to a conclusively clean beautiful Chardonnay which elegantly parades forth the true attributes of the grape itself.

Given the delicate nature of the flavors which unfold in the wine, it is fitting to pair something light alongside.   This week’s menu hosts:

1)      Panko-Parmesan Crusted Ocean Perch With Cantaloupe-Chive Relish; and

2)     Meyer Lemon Marinated Grilled Asparagus.

Ocean Perch is delicate and almost buttery in flavor making it the perfect complement to Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars’ 2007 Arcadia Chardonnay.   To prepare the fish, it is first lightly spritzed with a meyer lemon grapeseed oil and then crusted in a combination of panko breadcrumbs, parmesan cheese and fresh thyme from the garden.   Drizzled with butter and then baked, this fish delicately flakes off with a fork and melts in your mouth.

A Cantaloupe-Chive Relish was created to top the Panko-Parmesan Crusted Ocean Perch with the dual intent of mirroring nuances in the wine and creating a seasonal creative spring dressing.   Cantaloupe readily appears in most markets by spring and is known for its clean, refreshing taste.   This serves as a tremendous palate cleanser.  Minced chives from the garden are added along with a sprinkle sugar and a dash of ground ginger.   The true celebrity gracing this relish, however, is the addition of the juice of a rangpur lime.   This year in the garden I have added a rangpur lime tree.   The rangpur lime is often described as somewhat sweet and similar to combining the flavors of a tangerine and a lime.  This week the first rangpur lime was ripe and was the perfect flavorfully dynamic addition to add to the Cantaloupe-Chive Relish.   Taking all of these ingredients into thought, it ultimately was the dash of ground ginger which tantalizingly tied everything together and made the flavors pop.

Scattering some of the Cantalope-Chive Relish across the top of the Panko-Parmesan Crusted Ocean Perch and served alongside some Meyer Lemon Marinated Grilled Asparagus, the meal spiritedly dances through the mouth, full of delicate but vibrant spring flavors.   When taken with the 2007 Arcadia Chardonnay, the flavors entwine like a newly found spring romance full of life and optimism.

While the bustle of spring continues to burst forth around you, take the time to settle back with an elegantly vibrant chardonnay.   Soon you will be waving good bye to those big buttery oak wines which masquerade as Chardonnay and instead will be readily embracing the grape with an unconditional love for all that it truly is.

For those who read loyally, last week you may have noted that for the first time since the inception of the web site (nearly one year ago), there was not a new weekly article.   Fear not, it was not a “slip” nor was it for lack of ideas.   Rest assured there is not a run on wine in Napa Valley and there are plenty of lovely choices yet to feature for years to come.   The reason is far simpler, benign and mundane:   vacation.   Vacation???  Yes, even my palate needed some proverbial “R and R”.

Granted, I live in Napa Valley.   Napa Valley is certainly a vacation hot spot for most ranging from Bay Area locals looking for a quick getaway to adventurers visiting from abroad.    It is hard not to envision Napa Valley as a quintessential lap of relaxation as we coast towards summer.   Napa Valley is known for its warm sunny days, blooming flowers, top notch cuisine, sundries to delight every imagination and wine that seemingly flows in abundance.   In fact, family members or friends who visit me here get a dreamy lazy look in his or her eye, settles in quickly to the slower pace of enjoying life and refers to my humble abode as “Rancho Relaxo”.   I cannot say that I quibble with any of them.

But for all that is magical about Napa Valley and for every sensory turn that peaks the imagination, is it impossible to create just even a small corner of this in your neck of the woods?   Never impossible, always within a grasp, these elements can be recreated to a degree wherever you are and with whomever you find yourself, if you only try.

After a week’s absence, my palate was ready to hop back into the saddle and with guests to entertain at the table, there was plenty of reason to show off with a nonstandard choice:   Syrah.    As those recall, last summer, I selected a gorgeously smooth French-style Syrah made from Spring Mountain fruit and boldly paired it with a North Carolina style barbeque menu.    The food was a hit as it was sampled by many and those who tried it marveled at its seamless match with the featured Syrah.    This week’s Syrah is certainly not made in a French style and in recent releases is far bolder and bigger (perhaps aligning it more closely with the California style).    However, find it in an older vintage and this wine has plenty of personality poised with an aged element of refinery:   Benessere Vineyard’s 2004 Syrah.  

Opening the bottle and pouring the wine into glasses, as typical with bigger Syrah wines, the fruit greets the nose before your nose can even approach the glass.   Nuances of blackberry jam, black currant, smoke, leather and a hint of clove teasingly tantalize the nose.   On the palate, that same blackberry fruit follows with dashes of fresh ground black pepper.   Intuitively, this wine would pair delightfully with dishes hosting wild game or duck, but the palate of my guests is far more casual.   The wine, however, does present a slight tartness and present, albeit refined, tannins.  Because of these last two elements, more thought needs to be involved with the food pairing and thus this week’s menu creatively hosts:

·         Blue-Bacon Guacamole

One of the greatest accomplishments (in my opinion) is being able to pair an often complex or unique wine with something simple or even just an appetizer.   In this case, believe it or not, guacamole pairs beautifully with an aged, otherwise game-oriented bold Syrah.  

Clearly this guacamole is not an ordinary guacamole.  Its layered ingredients purposefully add depth, fat, acidity, smoke and all-around scrumptious goodness to pair perfectly with Benessere Vineyards’ 2004 Syrah.   Sustainability is at play as well as fresh chives are gathered from the patio to be chopped and added to the guacamole itself:  which consists of mashed fresh avocados, along with freshly picked Meyer lemon, chopped fresh cilantro and some seasoning salt.  Avocados are a heart-healthy fat which is helpful in balancing the tannins in the wine.   Next, picking a medium flavored creamy blue cheese, it is crumbled atop the guacamole.   Chopping vine ripened tomatoes and tossing in chopped cilantro, these are next added.   Finally adding a sprinkling of apple wood bacon pieces and more chopped chives, the Blue-Bacon Guacamole is ready to be presented alongside some white corn tortilla chips.

Taken together, the Blue-Bacon Guacamole is sumptuous as salacious is the 2004 Syrah.   The fat content of the avocado and the bacon simultaneously rope in the tannins of the Syrah.  The bacon also adds a slightly smoky component compatible with the smoke nuances in the wine.  Recall the tartness in the wine?   Again, the acidity of tomatoes works as an unsuspecting secret weapon to erase that tartness and permit dark berry fruit and pepper to inundate the palate.    And what benefit does the creamy blue cheese crumble bring?   Aside from protein, it creates depth of flavor and a naturally involved delicious flavor which holds up against the dark bold flavors of the 2004 Syrah.   To finally add flavorful spunk, the freshly grown chives are tender yet vibrantly make the flavors overall pop in the Blue-Bacon Guacamole.

Aside from knowing how the ingredients function intentionally in the dish, the ultimate confirmation is that moment when a quiet hush falls upon the table, the appetizer readily disappears and with wine in hand, a settled dreamy smile of satisfaction befalls the table’s guests.

*Don’t forget to find the Fan Page on Facebook for “The Casual Connoisseur” and learn extra trivia, pairing ideas, information and wine availability (such as this week’s featured wine).

Spring has sprung in Napa Valley and as the days warm, floral and spice aromas waft all around through the air.   It is a romantic time to be in wine country with flowers blooming, grapes starting to set on vines and herbs coming into season.   With temperatures reaching into the upper 70’s on the weekends, folks are venturing out and ready to discover what wines await them.  

As we creep closer to the one year anniversary of the web site, I thought it would be timely to revisit a wine initially featured here, but a different vintage.   Coupled with the fact that it is spring, there is no better time than to revisit Viognier.    Given my choice for top Viognier in Napa Valley is Goosecross Cellars (“Goosecross”, which is known for their white wines), it is fitting to feature this year’s released vintage:   2008 Napa Valley “Oak Knoll” Viognier (“2008 Viognier”).

Opening the 2008 Viognier, the wine is instinctively floral as notes of honeysuckle entice the nose.    While agreed that Goosecross’ Viognier characteristically presents lovely flavors of peach and nectarine, this 2008 vintage uniquely offers the often missed stone fruit of apricot.   Recognizing that the 2008 vintage is also increasingly spicy, ginger flirts with the back of the palate and leaps forth like an impatient spring ready for summer.  The wine has a much fuller mouth feel and bolder identity than that of its prior vintages.   Is there a change in the composition of the grapes used in the wine?   No:  this wine is 100% Viognier.   Given it is 100% fruit and it bears all of the trademark Viognier characteristics of aromatic floral nose, forward stone fruit representation and ever-present spice, it clearly is a true reflection of the grape itself and perhaps (in my opinion) one of the best in Napa Valley.  For a white wine, however, its alcohol content is higher than most, coming in at 14.6%.

Viognier typically pairs well with spicy food.   It also is my first choice for pairing with sushi.   However, given that Viognier wines always have higher alcohol content than their other white wine brethren, I firmly believe that the food pairing must have some substantial protein and carbohydrates.   This is not to imply that the food pairing must be heavy, lack creativity or find itself without flare.   Without further ado, this week’s menu hosts:

·         Raspberry-Chipotle Roasted Chicken Breast Basil Sandwiches With Raspberry Mayonnaise

Simply stated, raspberries go brilliantly with Viognier.   Perhaps due to their inherent acidity and sweetness, they are a natural pairing with the wine.  Pair raspberries in a dish with the 2008 Viognier and prepare to embrace your inner “romanticismo.”   Given the wine’s own spicy nature, chipotle in the marinade for the chicken breasts fares equally well.

To help complete the sandwich, a raspberry mayonnaise is prepared using fresh raspberries.   A fresh sourdough roll from a local Napa bakery is then layered with the homemade raspberry mayonnaise, the raspberry-chipotle roasted chicken, thin slices of onion, fresh basil leaves and butter lettuce picked from the backyard garden.   Given that the sandwich and the wine each have plenty of spice, a soft sweet lettuce like butter lettuce is necessary as a peppery arugula or a bitter romaine would be too much and throw off the balance in the pairing.

The result is a romantic combination of spice, sweet, tangy and pepper suitable for a picnic or even dinner for two.  The pairing romanticizes the senses as it truly replicates the aromatic flare of Napa Valley in late spring.  With such an endorsement, the wine and meal taken together is appropriately suitable for creating the perfect lunch to host a guest visiting wine country and preparing his or her senses for all that is about to unfold.

Each week this month Napa Valley seemingly receives a tease of warmer spring weather to only fall short and experience another swath of cool rainy days.   While this pattern seemingly places a taunting hold on warmer weather, it continues to provide ideal temperatures to comfortably enjoy red wine.

Claret (pronounced Klar-it) is generally a red blend wine consisting of Bordeaux grape varietals.  While at first thought this may sound like a Meritage, Clarets are not governed by the same rules as a Meritage red wine.   In fact, there are no rules for a Claret wine.   Some connoisseurs even venture to hold out that the word Claret means nothing at all.

While it is true that there is no legal definition for a Claret wine, in the United States it is commonly accepted that Claret will consist of a mixture of Bordeaux red wine grapes (such as, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Carmenere, Gros Verdot, Petit Verdot and St. MacCaire) but generally understood that it will not consist of 75% or more of any one Bordeaux red grape.   Depending on the winery, the vintage, and the vintner, Claret can vary tremendously or can be made in a style similar to that of Meritage.    Why not then call it a Meritage?   A winery may elect not to call it a Meritage perhaps because the wine may not meet all of the required Meritage rules or more simply, the winery may not wish to pay the licensing fee to have the right to call the wine a “Meritage”.   In these latter cases, the use of the word Claret will more than suffice.

What distinguishes Claret from other red wines?

Succinctly stated, it is the hope that the wine is extraordinarily good and pleases your palate.   Since Clarets can vary greatly, it is merely a question of tasting and exploring different vintner’s styles and winemaking techniques.   If this is still too broad, then narrow it down by what winery uses “good fruit”.   

“Good fruit” means simply what it implies:    that you enjoy the flavors typically offered by the fruit either grown by that winery or reliably sourced by that winery.   Whether you like a winery’s fruit will largely depend on the American Viticulture Area or district where the winery sits (for example, Stags Leap District, Diamond Mountain, Rutherford Bench, Howell Mountain, etc.).   Ultimately, the best possible chance for finding top notch Claret is to narrow the search to wineries which consistently make good, well-balanced wines.    One such winery in Napa Valley is Bremer Family Winery (“Bremer”) located on Howell Mountain.

Bremer’s most notable motto is that the family “produces the wines that we [they] like to drink.”   While this philosophy may sound commonsense, to hold that out as one’s brand is impliedly as bold as the grapes grown on Howell Mountain.    Bremer’s 2003 Claret Napa Valley (“2003 Claret”) readily reflects this intention and after spending an evening entertaining a guest, it was eagerly adopted as a wine that we like to drink, too.

Once opened, Bremer’s 2003 Claret was allowed to decant for approximately one hour while dinner was prepared.    Giving it a little time to breathe was not mandatory, but it did give the wine adequate time to open up to ensure maximum exploration.   Poured into the glass, the 2003 Claret did not disappoint.   The nose was primarily dominated by aromas of ripe blackberries, subtle cigar box, licorice and a lingering aroma of vanilla bean meets dark chocolate.   Taking in the nose over time, it was clear that the bouquet was seductively enchanting with the “come hither” sense of spice only attributable to Howell Mountain.   Bremer’s 2003 Claret pleasantly greets the palate with blackberry fruit and spice of anise.   Like blackberries, however, there was a noticeable tart aspect on the palate but not overwhelmingly so as the wine was seamlessly smooth with balanced fine tannins and was decidedly decadent enough to drink on its own.

Despite being tempted to simply sip Bremer’s 2003 Claret and revel in its rich fruit, spices, aromas and flawlessly balanced mouth feel, dinner was planned:

1)      Charcoal Grilled Stuffed Steak With Fresh Mozzarella, Basil Leaves and Roasted Red Peppers; and

2)     Basil Herbed Pearl Couscous.

Given that this big bold Claret would contain a significant percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, it was fitting to use steak given it will further balance any tannins present.  Wanting to stuff the steak such that it would mirror the wine’s decadence, the meat was carefully and gently sliced through the middle along the one side.   Not wanting to over handle the steak (less is better with steak and will help it remain tender), the steaks were gently opened to host a layer of fresh mozzarella, fresh basil leaves, balsamic vinegar and roasted red peppers.   The steak was then sealed with toothpicks and a combination of oregano, fresh ground black pepper and seasoning salt was worked into the exterior of the steaks.

Once cooked on a charcoal grill, the steaks were sliced to be placed upon a bed of Basil Herbed Pearl Couscous.    Pearl Couscous was selected for its tenderness and consistency and was seasoned with herbs and basil to parallel the stuffed grilled steak.

Taken together with Bremer’s 2003 Claret provided a lively rich vibrant mix of flavors to create a memorable meal that was savored slowly.   The combination of fresh mozzarella, basil and caramelized roasted red peppers created a soft, sweet component which neutralized the tart aspect initially experienced in the wine.

Part of enjoying wine is learning about wine.   No matter how much one learns, there is always the possibility to learn more.  When one discovers a delicious new wine grape varietal, it is almost like stumbling across a hidden treasure.

Earlier this year I discovered Pinotage.   While it was my first acquaintance with the grape, Pinotage has actually been made since 1925 and made in Napa Valley by Steltzner Vineyards easily since the 1970’s.   Pinotage’s origins are unique in that the grape hails from South Africa (as opposed to France), where pinot noir vines were bred with vines of cinsault.  To date, the grape is still best grown in South Africa (and is grown extensively there) but it is grown in California (although not widely).  

Steltzner Vineyards (“Steltzner”), located in the Stag’s Leap District in Napa Valley, is known for producing an excellent Pinotage each year and is one of the few local wineries to do so.   A quality Pinotage is recognized for being medium-bodied and subtly flavored.   Steltzner’s 2005 Pinotage accomplishes both of these elements.   The 2005 Pinotage presents a nose which has an ever-so-slight floral note of lavender, warm allspice, cherry and an essence of smoke.   In the mouth, the wine is a medium-bodied red wine with a smooth feel.   The tannins are not overwhelming (nor should they be), which allows the fruit flavors found in the wine to burst forth.   Soft notes of cherry (which is characteristic of grapes from the Stags Leap District), spice and a tiny dash of white pepper dance across the palate.   Red wine lovers should readily embrace this Pinotage and wine aficionados who typically wrestle with the overly bold, tannic red wines of Napa Valley should love this wine, too.   If the wine’s mere accessibility is not enough, given the characteristics of both the nose and the mouth, it is readily apparent that this Pinotage will pair beautifully with a wide range of foods.   In short, the discovery of Pinotage is a giant “win” due to its versatility.

Since spice, cherry fruit, smoke and a slight floral aroma accompany this wine, this week’s food pairing attempts to creatively capture these elements:

1)      Honey Lavender Barbequed Chicken; and

2)     Oven-Roasted Potatoes Au Gratin.

Each week of spring in Napa Valley seems to burst forth with something new in bloom.   In a culinary sense, it is almost like having waited for hours alongside a long red carpet with baited anticipation to see what will come into season next.   Asparagus, rhubarb, blueberries and spring lettuces have all leapt to the culinary stage in the last month, but this week, lavender came into bloom with a vengeance.

For fans of herbes of provence, many also know that lavender is wonderful to cook with.  It adds a unique floral scent but an indescribable spicy taste.   Just as lavender will sometimes pair well with certain Pinot Noirs, it is equally well-suited to Pinotage.   Given that this Pinotage is dominated by cherry flavors and warm spices, it will go alongside milder barbeque sauces.    Thus, the sauce created to pair with this wine is a mild spiced red barbeque sauce which contains honey and fresh lavender petals harvested from the garden.   To enhance the smoke aroma found in the wine, the chicken breasts are grilled atop a charcoal grill.

To pair with the Honey Lavender Barbequed Chicken, a side dish must be created which will not detract from the spices and flavors of the barbeque sauce.   This by no means indicates that the potatoes au gratin created should be lackluster in flavor.   Instead a medley of red, Yukon gold, and purple potatoes are selected for their respective sweet, buttery flavors and their soft texture.   Rather than make a traditional au gratin dish where the potatoes bake in the oven slathered by a heavy cheese sauce, instead, the potatoes are sliced and cubed (again for texture and dimension), tossed in a bit of olive oil, roasted garlic and fresh ground pepper, then roasted in the oven on a baking tray.    To add the traditional onion element, a Hawaiian sweet onion is thinly sliced and sautéed until caramelized.   The cheese sauce uses a grated creamy cow’s milk cheese (which has a slightly nutty flavor and black pepper), milk, flour and butter.   Since the potatoes are already roasted, they can be assembled on a plate with the sautéed Hawaiian onions tossed throughout and the cheese sauce drizzled across the top.   In short, this is au gratin potatoes for grown-ups.

Taking the food together with the wine is a balanced meal loaded with harmonious flavors and textures.   The chicken is slightly perfumed such that it offers a pleasant aroma of spring.   The lavender, while offering that slight perfume, also brings a unique spice to the red barbeque sauce.  The sauce itself seduces the senses with smoke, charred wood, floral notes, the sweet smoothness of honey and that unique spice flavor attributable to lavender.   As a result, it coaxes more depth out of an already solidly structured Pinotage.    

While the potatoes au gratin are not intended to be spicy, they are intended to compliment the barbecued chicken and the wine.   Recalling that the wine is very smooth, the consistency of the potatoes with the cheese sauce is also soft and smooth.  Sweetened by roasted garlic, caramelized Hawaiian onions and a creamy cow’s milk cheese, the Roasted Potatoes Au Gratin is comfort food personified and presentable in a fashionable way to merit a place at any gourmet meal.

This spring as you are out wine tasting, explore Pinotage.   It is a great red wine that most people can enjoy and if served at a gathering, it is a great conversation piece as most will learn something new.  And as I always say, “enjoying wine is easy; so is learning how to enjoy it.”   Cheers!