Sep 16 2009

Casual Backyard Elegance

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This weekend surprised Napa Valley with an uncharacteristic thunderstorm and cool, cloudy weather.   While the moisture was welcomed, it certainly was atypical for Harvest.   However, it provided ample opportunity to mull over autumn recipes and pour a white wine better suited for slightly cooler temperatures:   Chardonnay.

Chardonnay originally hails from France and in the region of Chablis, only Chardonnay grapes are permitted to be planted.    In the United States, Chardonnay is an extremely popular white wine and dominates grocery store shelves and restaurant wine lists.   California has had the most success in the United States producing this popular white wine.    While there are endless vintners who make Chardonnay, none taste exactly alike and many can vary vastly from one another.  

The grape itself is delicate and subject to manipulation, or even described as malleable.  Thus it is highly influenced by its terrior , its barreling and its winemaker.   For example, depending on the region or soil where the grape is grown, Chardonnay can taste crisp or with minerality.   In other regions the geography will not heavily influence but instead malolactic fermentation will set forth big buttery, creamy smooth flavors.   The Chardonnay grape itself is thin-skinned and fragile thus making it easily influenced by the winemaker’s technique or ability.   While many styles of Chardonnay are made, Chardonnay is traditionally recognized for its full body and smoothness.   As a result, even the most discerning connoisseur can find a Chardonnay that will delight his or her senses once he or she recognizes what other characteristics speak to him or her.

Bremer Family Winery (“Bremer”), located on Howell Mountain in Napa Valley, produces a beautifully balanced Chardonnay.    This wine demonstrates careful, loving winemaking as its aromas and flavors on the palate are not so bold to overwhelm your senses but instead convey a sense of quiet, smooth elegance and finery.   You will not find big brash oak or butter in this Chardonnay.   Instead, the Bremer Chardonnay on the nose sets forth a whisper of honey, memories of freshly baked banana bread and macadamia nut.   Gliding across the palate, flavors of pear, fig, almond and macadamia nut come forth only to fade into a lovely caramel-like finish.   Sipping this wine by itself would cause a revered hush to fall upon any room, but if paired with the proper food, the Bremer Chardonnay transcends dining into elegance.

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It is a common misperception to believe that Chardonnay will pair with just any food pairing.    For example, white fish frequently gets lost on the palate when paired with a Chardonnay.   In a pairing such as white fish, a Chardonnay runs the risk of seeming like a Pamplona bull on the loose at your dinner table as opposed to a refined well-behaved guest.   Not to discourage, however, there are many food pairings which will nicely accompany and compliment the Chardonnay traits of which you are fond.    Given that Chardonnay is known for having its sugar and acid levels in balance, one vegetable in particular that pairs well is butternut squash.

My vegetable garden presently is loaded with butternut squash.   Butternut squash, if happy where it is planted, can be prolific.   Aside from taking over the northwestern edge of my back lawn, it now colorfully boasts over twenty-five ripening golden squash.    With autumn on the way, it is time to start finding a creative way to incorporate butternut squash into my menu.   Depending on how one seasons or augments butternut squash, it can appear in a wide array of appetizers, meals, or desserts.  Also in season this month are figs which are found abundantly throughout Napa Valley.  With both of these aspects in mind, this week’s wine and food pairing menu hosts:

1)      Butternut-Apple-Shallot Soup With Gorgonzola Crumbles;

2)     Braised Figs With Gorgonzola Crumbles;

3)     Herb Roasted Chicken Breasts; and

4)     Butternut Mascarpone Ravioli With Crème Fraiche Glaze.

Starting with the Butternut-Apple-Shallot Soup with Gorgonzola Crumbles creates a lovely starter which can be a dynamic substitute for the traditional cheese plate.    Rich in flavor, the soup has depth with a hint of sweetness and coaxes out the headier nuances in the Bremer Chardonnay.   

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Using a small bit of the chardonnay to braise the figs helps to tie the flavors of the wine into the meal.    Braised in the oven with a drizzle of honey and gorgonzola crumbles, the figs will be an excellent accompaniment to the Herb Roasted Chicken Breasts.  

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Similarly, the chicken will roast in the oven in a bit of the Chardonnay, some garlic and freshly cut herbs from the garden.    Roasting in the wine, the chicken not only takes on some of the wine’s attributes, but it also helps keep the chicken moist.  

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Once the Herb Roasted Chicken and the Braised Figs are combined, the flavors are warm, rich and elegant just like the Bremer Chardonnay.    The Bremer Chardonnay travels across the palate like the perfect companion to this meal and the sweetness of the Braised Figs accentuates the caramel finish of the wine.  

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As you polish off the last bit of wine in the glass, the perfect way to end the meal is with a slightly sweet dessert without reaching for traditional crème brulee.    Instead, using some reserved butternut squash to combine with mascarpone cheese, sugar, cinnamon and a dash of nutmeg, I created dessert ravioli.    Using wonton wraps as a pasta substitute also helps to keep the dish lighter in texture.    A drizzle of crème fraiche glaze atop the ravioli sweetens the dish and dances nicely with the caramel finish of the Bremer Chardonnay.  

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An elegant meal at home paired with the right wine can sometimes be even more meaningful than one at a five-star restaurant.    There is no one to rush you and no corkage fee to open the wine.  Instead there is the satisfaction of a well-prepared meal at home, relaxing ambience and the leisure to linger over a fine wine and elegant meal.    As the temperatures start to cool this autumn and grey clouds fill the skies, explore Chardonnay to find one that fits your own taste, sense of style and creative culinary endeavors.  

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Sep 09 2009

A Harvest Delight: Sauvignon Blanc

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Napa Valley is buzzing with activity as it prepares for Harvest.    While the wineries are harvesting grapes, residents are harvesting their vegetable gardens for heirloom tomatoes, lettuces and other vegetables.    Whether the day is spent toiling in a vineyard, crushing grapes at a winery or tending to a backyard vegetable garden, a cool glass of Sauvignon Blanc refreshes after hours spent in the warm sun.  

Sauvignon Blanc is a green-skinned grape used to produce a white wine with origins tracing back to the Loire Valley in France.   In the United States it is primarily grown in California and a notable style comes from New Zealand.   Sauvignon Blanc is a lively alternative to Chardonnay as it is characterized by acidity with distinct flavors ranging from herbaceous, citrus, tropical or mineral.    The method of fermentation determines what flavors will be found in the wine and typically does not involve oak barreling.   Depending on the nuances of these factors, a wine might be described as having bright citrus fruit, gooseberry, lemongrass, hay or flinty characteristics.    Depending on the style that you prefer, upon sampling Sauvignon Blancs, you might find that you prefer the New Zealand style which is often racy with citrus and acidity or the Californian style which generally has more herbaceous qualities and a softer, rounder feel in the mouth.    In Napa Valley, one stand out traditional California style Sauvignon Blanc is made by Girard Winery (“Girard”).

Girard’s Sauvignon Blanc is no stranger to accolades.    Quiet and unassuming, this white wine sits on the winery’s tasting menu and is priced at a mere $16.00 per bottle.   Yet year after year, this Sauvignon Blanc receives rave reviews and often 90 point ratings from a vast array of publications, including The Wine Enthusiast.    After pouring it into your glass and taking your first taste, it is easy to understand why this wine is one of California’s best efforts in the making of a true Sauvignon Blanc.   It is light, refreshing, setting forth lovely aromas of lemon blossoms with a blend of grapefruit, tropical fruit and lemongrass on the palate.  Always smooth and well-blended, Girard’s Sauvignon Blanc has just the right amount of acidity such that your mouth never puckers.    Tasting notes aside, Girard has a consistent winner with this wine as it is also the best deal for a “grown-up” tasting Sauvignon Blanc in Napa Valley.    Girard’s commitment to keeping this wine priced under $20 a bottle is also a testament that price is not always a necessary component of a high quality, fine wine.    The price also affords a certain guiltless pleasure while enjoying this Sauvignon Blanc because, as I have often described it, this wine is “painfully drinkable”:  it goes down easy and the bottle could be empty before you and your guests know it.

Given the balanced nature of Girard’s Sauvignon Blanc, it may be paired with a broader spectrum of food, (as opposed to the zesty citrusy New Zealand-style Sauvignon Blanc wines).   This wine’s acidity is present, but not overwhelmingly so, with only a spritz of lemon zest at the back of the palate.   While this Sauvignon Blanc can be easily paired with shellfish, Chilean sea bass, and poultry, it conveys a certain delicate richness and a breath of sophistication that allows it to be considered in other pairings.    Because the wine’s acidity is in check, it is a unique white wine which can be paired with dishes hosting garden fresh heirloom tomatoes.   

As we slowly meander into September, my garden is still loaded with ripening heirloom tomatoes which are perfect for stuffing and roasting.   

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Given that I have waited all year for heirloom tomato season, this week’s menu enthusiastically hosts:

·         Roasted Stuffed Heirloom Tomatoes With Ricotta, Spinach and Artichoke on a bed of Mixed Garden Lettuces With Grilled Sourdough Baguette Slices

Stuffing an heirloom tomato to roast may sound taxing or involved, but its preparation is a progressive, manageable labor of love.   Total preparation takes less than one hour of time and once complete, the tomato can be filling and satisfying enough for dinner.     

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Placing a stuffed heirloom tomato on a bed of lettuce drizzled with balsamic vinaigrette provides for a salad that suffices as a main entrée.   Slices of sourdough baguette which are brushed with olive oil, serve as a crouton or to scoop up excess tomato juice with ricotta remnants reminding one of bruschetta.    When paired with the Sauvignon Blanc, the roasted tomato containing warm ricotta cheese, spinach, artichoke, and garlic pair seamlessly with the wine’s lemongrass and herbaceous notes.    Finishing on the back of the palate with slight lemon zest, the wine pleasantly cleanses the palate.   

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Pick some heirloom tomatoes, whether from your garden or a farmer’s market, and enjoy them alongside a glass of Sauvignon Blanc.   This pairing best exemplifies an elegant simplicity in wine and food pairing and can be equally easy on your wallet.  

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Sep 03 2009

Sugar, Spice and Syrah, Oh So Nice!

Published by under Barbeque,Desserts,Food,Red Wine,Syrah

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This week launched the month of September but brought hot temperatures to Napa Valley.   Despite sweltering weather, the end of summer looms as this weekend hosts the bittersweet holiday of Labor Day.   Societal lore dictates, after next Monday, that white pants are not to be worn until next summer and summer backyard barbeques are to move to the backburner of activities.   Whether you subscribe to these theories or march to your own cultural drum, this Labor Day weekend merits one last serious barbeque before you wave fare-thee-well to summer.

Mention barbeque and Zinfandel immediately comes to mind as a pairing suggestion.   Most Zinfandels do pair well, but so do other wines.   Syrah (referred to as “Shiraz” in Australia, South Africa and Canada), pairs beautifully with a thoughtfully planned barbeque menu.

Syrah is a red wine grape which originates from the Rhône region of Southeastern France.   Most Syrah grapes in the United States are grown in California, with origins easily being traced back to the 1970’s.   When Syrah is made into wine, the result is a big, bold and intense red wine.   Syrah grapes generally like heat for growth and thus its wine can have a higher alcohol content.    Depending on the age of the wine, where its grapes are grown and the talent of its winemaker, a Syrah wine can be rich and complex.   It is characterized by black fruit, most notably black currant and blackberry.   The typical spices found on the nose of any Syrah are pepper and anise (akin to the smell of black licorice).   Barreling in oak and its duration therein, presents nuances which vary from the pleasant sweet smell of vanilla to the mysterious rich smell of smoke.   Depending on the terrior where the grapes are grown, some Syrahs will actually have a slight earthy smell or aromas of truffle.   Thus, it is easy to grasp that when exploring various Syrahs, no wine will taste exactly alike but will easily entertain you with its various layers of aromas and flavors.

Lava Vine, a Napa Valley winery located in Calistoga, presently offers two different Syrah wines on its tasting menu.   One wine in particular, best exhibited the traditional Syrah characteristics of the Rhône region of Southeastern France:   Zacherle Spring Mountain District (Crowley Vineyard) 2006 Syrah (the “Zacherle Syrah”).   All of the complexities that one would hope for in a good Syrah are present here, but with the added benefit of a sensually rich texture.  On the nose, there is the presence of characteristic blackberry fruit, the enchanting aroma of anise, pepper, and a seductive hint of smoke.   As this Syrah wine reaches your palate, it washes across like a smooth, velvety wave of spices and blackberry fruit.    While it has the potential to be big, bold and intense, this Syrah keeps its audacious personality in check and instead presents itself as a beautifully balanced wine with rich, subtle layers of complexity.   Given its characteristics, this Syrah could easily be enjoyed alone but similarly it has the versatility to be paired with food (particularly with a good North Carolina barbeque).

Barbeque in North Carolina is a serious topic and sauces vary regionally throughout the state, most notably between the Eastern and Western parts.    Barbeque sauce in Eastern North Carolina is a vinegar-based sauce and does not involve any tomato or ketchup products.  This sauce can still be just as spicy and sweet (depending on the ingredients), and its origins trace back to an influence from England as a dressing.    In Western North Carolina, however, the barbeque sauces involve ketchup as a starting point, thereby creating the red barbeque sauce to which most people are accustomed.   Keeping these points in mind and the notes in the Zacherle Syrah, I created the following menu for this wine and food pairing:

1)      Western North Carolina Barbequed Pulled Pork;

2)     Carolina Slaw;

3)     Oven-Roasted Sweet Potato Fries; and

4)     Molten Chocolate Cupcakes.

To prepare the pork, I first created my own barbeque sauce which was fashioned after the red barbeque sauces of Western North Carolina.    In North Carolina, many people develop their own barbeque sauce and rumor to protectively keep the recipe under lock and key.   Some folks have even admitted that they only will make their barbeque sauce recipes on Sundays, while everyone else is attending church.    Hearing these tales and admissions is culturally amusing, but once embarking upon creating your own sauce, it is easy to understand the motivation for such precautions.    Creating the sauce was a slow process.  I made sure to balance its sweet elements with vinegar and spice.  Of course I found some unique special ingredients from the pantry in order to make the sauce my own individual unique creation.    Once made, the sauce sat overnight which allowed the ingredients and spices to marry.    As for the pork, overnight I allowed it marinate in some red wine and black raspberry vinegar to allow it to tie back to the Syrah.   The next morning, the pork was placed into a slow-cooker upon slices of sweet onion with a few cloves of garlic and covered in some of my homemade barbeque sauce.   After the pork had finished cooking, it was juicy and shredded effortlessly with forks.   Tossing the pork in some of the reserved homemade barbeque sauce, I next heated it quickly on the stove top. 

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Given that I also wanted to represent the culinary tastes of Eastern North Carolina, I made a Carolina Slaw.   The dressing that is made for Carolina Slaw is much like barbeque sauces found throughout Eastern North Carolina.    The dressing here is vinegar-based with sugar (and other ingredients) and then heated to dissolve all ingredients.    Once heated it is poured over the slaw mixture and set in the refrigerator to chill for several hours.    To make my slaw mixture, I elected to use carrots freshly pulled from the garden.   Garden-fresh carrots have a far sweeter taste than those found at the grocery store and it is this flavoring that creates more depth to the traditional slaw mixture.   I also could not resist adding red cabbage to my Carolina Slaw because its coloring is similar to that of the Zacherle Syrah.   The wine’s coloring is a pretty plum making it the perfect accessory to my Carolina Slaw.  

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Oven-roasted sweet potato fries are another wonderful Southern side dish to add to a barbeque menu.   Many restaurants use yams to make their sweet potato fries (hence the bright orange coloring) but the true sweet potato is lighter in color.   Using true sweet potatoes coated in some thyme, marjoram and other spices, I created a delicious oven-roasted potato fry that even children would love.

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Putting the barbeque pulled pork, Carolina slaw and oven-roasted sweet potatoes together on a plate and pairing them with the Zacherle Syrah is a match made in heaven.    There are components of sweetness, spice and layers of complexity that linger with you:   whether it is the wine or the food.   The barbeque sauce warms and comforts as it goes down and with a sip of the Zacherle Syrah, its velvety wave of blackberry and spices follow as if second nature.    

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For dessert, chocolate pairs intuitively with red wine.  With a rich, delicious red wine such as the Zacherle Syrah, the more chocolate is the better.    Creating Molten Chocolate Cupcakes is akin to creating small chocolate lava cakes, with an “oohey-goohey” chocolate fudge pudding drizzling out of the center.    Garnished with a sprinkle of powdered sugar and a raspberry on top, it is the perfect mirrored finish to the fruit found in the wine.   

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At the end of the day, sitting down to this home-made North Carolina style barbeque paired with a rich, layered Syrah tastes just like something you would find either in a little barbeque shack found far off the beaten path or on a good friend’s back porch.   The sauces are slowly simmered and the pork takes its time roasting, but it is all worthwhile if it helps to slow down the last weekend of summer.  

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Aug 26 2009

Classic Times and Old Vines

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Ever heard that phrase “it’s an oldie, but a goodie”?    Some things in life simply transcend time:   such as, a classic vintage car on a warm August afternoon, a carefully planned picnic with time-tested recipes, roadside grape vines before harvest and a good bottle of an old vine wine.  Regardless of when you choose to enjoy any of these, a reliable romantic standard of elegance and class is set.  

This week a good friend, who owns a 1928 Ford Model A Sport Coupe, suggested that we take her car out to the vineyards for a drive.    Heading out into the vineyards on a warm summer afternoon in Napa Valley easily merits a picnic and as tribute to my friend’s vintage car, I decided that it was only fitting to bring along a bottle of an old vine zinfandel wine.  

In my earlier article “Is it a Sin to Love Zin”, I briefly discussed old vine zinfandels.   As previously noted, old vine wines are made from grapes harvested from grape vines known as “old vines.”    “Old vines” are generally recognized to be at least fifty years in age, but in Napa and neighboring Sonoma Valley, some old vine zinfandels hail from vines anywhere from eighty to one hundred years old.    Zinfandel made its first arrival in California in the 1850’s, with the first notable Zinfandel being recognized in 1857 out of Napa Valley in the Oak Knoll District.    While many would think that old vines of zinfandel grapes would dominate the valleys of Napa and Sonoma Counties, many were ripped out during the Prohibition (1920 to 1933).   Thus, when you do find a truly old vine wine you are in for a treat. 

To honor the outing in my friend’s 1928 Ford Model A, I reviewed the old vine zinfandels in my collection and decided upon a wine from Sonoma County:    Ledson’s 2006 Russian River Old Vine Zinfandel, known as “Amy’s Vineyard”.   The “Amy’s Vineyard” Old Vine Zinfandel is produced from hand-selected grapes from a vineyard near the Russian River and from vines nearly one hundred years old.   Given that I was planning a picnic, I wanted an Old Vine Zinfandel that would not be overwhelmed by the influence of its terrior and bring forth some festive fruit on the palate, while embodying the silky, velvety sensations akin to truly good Old Vine Zinfandels.     My selection did not disappoint in the least.    Splashing raucously into the glass, the wine has a deep, rich dark burgundy color triggering the imagination to envision velvet.   Even while admiring the coloring of this wine, your nose does not have to venture far to begin gathering hints of berry fruit and spice.   Venturing further into the glass, your nose is met by an onslaught of raspberry preserves, a hint of vanilla bean, and spices such as anise, clove and pepper.   Knowing that there is a lot going on with the nose, it would seem like the wine is going to come charging across the palate.   However, it is on the palate that the virtue of the old vines takes center stage.    Benefitting from the age of its vines, the wine manages to magically pull the big raspberry fruit, spices and vanilla together and into balance on the palate.   By no means is the palate to be construed as a disappointment.   To the contrary, the wine amazes the palate as its consistency is thick, velvety and finishes with a silken touch.   As you experience these sensations, all of those scents that were experienced on the nose find their respective places on the palate and with notable presence.

So, a picnic?   Doesn’t Zinfandel go with barbeque?

Of course Zinfandels go with barbeque.    In fact, in the earlier article, I created a Barbeque Chipotle Chicken to pair with a zinfandel known for big white pepper on the palate.    The “Amy’s Vineyard” Old Vine Zinfandel from Ledson could easily go with barbeque as well.   However, it can also pair with a multitude of other foods and given the notes in this particular wine, there is ample room to be creative with my picnic menu.    Given that I am creating a picnic themed with my friend’s vintage car and to pair with a wonderful old vine wine, my menu features old-fashioned recipes (but of course with a gourmet twist):

1)      Chicken Club Lettuce Wraps;

2)     Asparagus, Heirloom Cherry Tomato and Tortellini Salad Marinated in Old Vine Zinfandel Vinagrette; and

3)     Baked Apples with a Crème Fraiche Glaze.

Bacon-Lettuce-Tomato and Chicken Club Sandwiches have been on American menus and American tables for decades.     Looking for a creative and healthy alternative, I elected to create the ingredients for the Chicken Club Sandwich as a salad to be placed in sweet fresh leaves of butter lettuce.    Given that lettuce is taking the place of bread or the traditional wrap, I whisked up a light Mayonnaise White Wine Vinaigrette with some minced shallots to toss the chicken, bacon, garden-fresh roma tomatoes and avocado.   Also, since this is a picnic style salad, I added some minced water chestnuts to the mixture to help maintain moisture and a sense of refreshment.    And, just in case my friend missed bread, I zested some buttery croutons over the top of the salad to give a flavorful illusion of toasted bread akin to chicken club sandwiches of yesteryear.    Whether you eat this with a fork or roll the lettuce leaves up to eat it as a wrap, this Chicken Club Wrap is an instant friend to the “Amy’s Vineyard” Old Vine Zinfandel due to the bacon, tomato and avocado components in the dish.  

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All picnics have potato salad.   Or do they?    Thinking long and hard, I started looking at old family recipes from long-passed great aunts of mine.    Many of them lived on farms with abundant produce and it was not uncommon to utilize what they had to create side dishes for lunches or picnics.    What we trendily call “the practice of sustainability” today has been a practice in my extended family for generations.   Stumbling across a recipe for marinated asparagus and tomatoes, my interest peaked.   Asparagus is a vegetable that many often love but rarely veers from traditionally found preparations.   My great aunt’s recipe was a good starting place.   But for the purposes of my menu, it needed… “tweaking”.    Given that zinfandels made in California are known for higher alcohol content, I elected to add chilled cooked tortellini to the blanched asparagus.    Having an abundance of three different types of heirloom cherry tomatoes from my garden, I elected to substitute these for traditional vine-ripened tomatoes.    Next up for scrutiny was the marinade.    My great aunt’s recipe called for a marinade using white wine vinegar.   Given that I had just prepared the Chicken Club Wraps with white wine vinegar, I decided to diversify the dish with red wine vinegar.  And if I was using red wine vinegar, how could I not put some of the wine for the picnic into this vinaigrette?  Adding some shallots and some crumbled Point Reyes’ Blue Cheese (among other ingredients), I had a unique marinade to add to a time-tested family recipe.    Later taking this chilled marinated salad on the picnic pleasingly proved satisfying, yet light and refreshing on a hot August afternoon.    The marinade was a perfect success as it brought forth the rich flavors of the three different types of cherry tomatoes and tied nicely back to the wine.  

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Finally, a picnic is not complete without some form of dessert.   Naturally, an American classic dessert is apple pie.    However, keeping in mind that I would be riding in a 1928 Ford Model A, there was not going to be much room for extra items.   A whole pie would not have easily fit into my picnic basket and was definitely an unnecessary amount of food for two people.    Instead, I created individual Baked Apples with a Crème Fraiche Glaze.   Each dessert was is in its own separate serving dish with a sealed lid which made it not only fit perfectly in my picnic basket but also amenable for picnic transport in the rumble seat of a small vintage roadster.   Finishing up the picnic with the Baked Apples while polishing off the last sip of “Amy’s Vineyard” Old Vine Zinfandel, was a sweet yet warm, rich end.    The cinnamon, sugar and nutmeg in the Baked Apples tied beautifully with the spices in the wine and the Crème Fraiche Glaze accentuated the vanilla notes in the zinfandel as well.   As we wrapped up our picnic, my friend and I both noted that this dessert was a pleasant testament that a red wine does not have to be paired with chocolate for dessert.  

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Wrapping up our picnic in the early evening summer sun, our stomachs were content yet not stuffed and our palates were enchanted by a delicious old vine zinfandel.   Heading back into Napa, people on the sidewalks would wave at us as my friend’s 1928 Ford Model A rumbled along.    Witnessing the broad smiles on the faces of strangers as we passed and noting the confirmed success of an old-fashioned picnic menu paired with an old vine zinfandel, it certainly proved that sometimes something “old” is far more meaningful than something “new”.

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Aug 19 2009

A Little Goes a Long Way: Petit Verdot

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Napa’s warm days are growing shorter and its evening cool coastal breezes are arriving earlier and gracing the late afternoon.   The hint of cool marine breeze combined with warm late summer afternoon sun reminds Napa Valley’s residents that autumn is just around the corner.   With thoughts of autumn in mind, wine connoisseurs affectionately dream of red wines with baited anticipation:   for as the temperature cools, the appeal of red wines increases.  Before you rush to reach for a Cabernet Sauvignon, there is one unique red wine (which if made well), will impress anyone who tastes it.  This wine is Petit Verdot.

As Petit Verdot is poured into a wine glass, it immediately captures your attention.   It is inky and exhibits a rich, dark purple color.   Still cloaked in mystery, it gives off the appearance of substance even though not a drop has been tasted and the bouquet has not yet been smelled.

So what is Petit Verdot?

Petit Verdot, despite its exotic name, is not a foreign grape to many palates.    The grape is a red wine grape and is often referred to as a “blending grape”.   As a “blending grape”, Petit Verdot notably contributes to a wine as it adds spice, color, tannins, and some attitude with its flavor.    It is suspected to originally hail from the Bordeaux region of France and appropriately found in small percentages in “Bordeaux Blend” red wines.  Since the grape is known for contributing structure, Petit Verdot is often found added to many a Cabernet Sauvignon thereby giving the wine more presence as it crosses your mid-palate.    It is apparent that a little bit of Petit Verdot goes a long way in blended wines but surprisingly it is sometimes found made well in a wine on its own.  

Petit Verdot is not often found made into its own wine as it is a difficult grape to grow.    Despite its Bordeaux origins, the grape does not grow particularly well in that region or cooler climates.   The grape is slow to ripen, often ripening after the early fall harvest of other grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon.    Given that it prefers heat, winemakers in California (given the state’s climate) are finding success with Petit Verdot.   One winery in particular that produces a stand-out Petit Verdot is Markham Vineyards (“Markham”).  

Pouring Markham’s Petit Verdot into a glass immediately passes the sight test.   Inky and dark purple in its coloring, this Petit Verdot lumbers into the glass giving the appearance of a thick, rich red wine.   As you draw your nose close to the glass, you are not overwhelmed with bright or jammy fruit.   Instead, the Petit Verdot’s mysterious appearance teases your nose and requires you to investigate further into the top of the glass to smell and decipher its bouquet.    At first sniff, this wine is different and complex.   The bouquet of the wine provides aromas of dark fruit like blackberry and black currant, prominent leather, a hint of smoke and a bit of spice.   Tilting the glass, the wine does not disappoint your palate upon its first introduction.    All of the aromas in the bouquet of Markham’s Petit Verdot find their respective place on your palate in a harmonious balance.   Sensually, the wine is thick, rich and velvety.   In short, this is a lusty wine and worthy of a similar food pairing.

Given that Markham’s Petit Verdot is dominated by blackberry and black currant flavors, my inclination is to pair this wine with pork given its innate ability to pair well with slightly tart fruit.    Noting the spices in the wine and its rich velvet sensual nature, there is no doubt that this wine will pair well with a slow-cooked meal, particularly one which includes garlic.   Keeping these elements in mind, for this wine and food pairing, I elected to prepare:

1)      Roasted Tomatillo Salsa;

2)     Slow-cooked Pork Carnitas Tacos; and

3)     Cuban Black Beans and Brown Rice.

Creating a Roasted Tomatillo Salsa to pair with Carnitas Tacos is simple and brings together elements of sweetness and spice.   Included in the recipe for the salsa is garlic (which is also an ingredient in the pork and the black beans later) which creates a warm spice that matches perfectly with the spices found in Markham’s Petit Verdot.    Also, while making the salsa, I elected to roasted my tomatillos and jalapenos to mirror the hint of smoke that I found in the wine.   The sweetness of the tomatillos is crucial in two respects.   First, the tomatillos will not overpower the flavor of the pork in the Carnitas Tacos.   Second, this same sweetness helps to balance out any tartness from the blackberry or currant flavors in the wine.  

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While you could roast your cut of pork, using a Crockpot to slow-cook ensures that your seasonings have plenty of time to marry, and creates a juicy piece of pork which shreds effortlessly.   This also means that there is no reason not to use a lean cut of pork if you are using the Crockpot.   Again, garlic is a key ingredient to this recipe (which ties into the wine).    Once the pork is shredded, chop some sweet onion to garnish on top of the tacos with a dash of lime and serve the tomatillo salsa.  

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Cuban black beans and brown rice are a nice balanced side to the Carnitas Tacos.    The warm spices in this dish pair innately with the spices in the Petit Verdot.   

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Putting all of these items together creates a meal equally lusty to the Petit Verdot paired alongside.   The meal, while lusty, does not leave one feeling over-stuffed.    And the Petit Verdot?    Opening it and allowing it to decant an hour or so before the meal is recommended to experience all of its attributes.   It is a wine that is not in a hurry and likewise is best sipped alongside the meal.     Its alcohol content is 14.9% which means that a little bit of this wine will go a long way.  Given the complex sensual nature of Petit Verdot, sitting back and sipping this wine with a slow-cooked meal is a blissful way to beckon autumn forth.

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