Zinfandel, long known as California’s red wine grape jewel, is synonymous with barbeque as barbeque is to summer dining.   As August wrapped up this week and Labor Day looms immediately ahead, there is no better tribute than firing up the charcoal grill and pulling a bottle of California’s classic red wine.

As cliché as a glass of Zinfandel with barbeque may seem, it is still a classic pairing that it should qualify as tradition with Labor Day.   By no means, however, does the pairing have to be mediocre and not only can the Zinfandel selected be exotic but equally the food pairing can impress the palate of guests to make the close of summer one to remember.

While often confused that Zinfandel has Italian origins due to its similarity to Primitivo, DNA studies have linked Zinfandel to an obscure grape from Croatia called Crljenak Kastelanski.  Regardless its origins, aside from the United States, Zinfandel is not widely grown and rightly is assumed to be a California red wine grape.   Zinfandel (as discussed last summer in “Is it a Sin to Love Zin?” on the web site) comes in varying styles of bottling with young fruit-forward styles, to some showing great pepper notes, others smooth as silk due to aged vines and yet others powering forward with unique style due to the blending of a different varietal.   Depending on the vintner’s style and preference, it is possible to find a Zinfandel made which has complexity, structure, depth and longevity to compare with the sophistication of many Cabernet Sauvignon wines.

Caymus Vineyards (“Caymus”), widely recognized for its aptitude with Cabernet Sauvignon, impresses its winery visitors with tastings of its Zinfandel.   Often thought of as a winery operating under the philosophy of “one wine, one label”, the winery does bottle Zinfandel for purchase at the winery.   The Wagner family has long produced Zinfandel for their enjoyment and after experiencing a taste of it, it is easy to understand why.

The first time I was introduced to Caymus’ Zinfandel, I was so enthralled with the wine’s nose that I could not begin to taste it for a good ten minutes.   If it is possible to have a love affair with the bouquet of a wine, Caymus’ 2006 Zinfandel is the beguiling culprit as its nose is just too good to break away from.  

Knowing in advance what awaited in a glass of Caymus’ 2006 Zinfandel, it was easy to take some time with the wine in order to thoroughly enjoy it in all of its stages.   Pouring the wine into the glass, the wine is a rich dark plum color yet when held to the light, jewel-toned ruby notes can be admired.   Brushing the nose past the rim of the wine glass, the wine’s bewitching bouquet begins its seduction.   Met with gorgeous aromas of cigar box, dust of the earth, clove, allspice, raspberry and a tease of black licorice, it is understandable if the wine captures your nose with its romantic spell.   As the wine tumbles back, the palate is met with undulating rich warm waves of plum accompanied by a full-on continuing charge of the wine’s aromas.    As the wine finishes leaving faint aromas of cedar, the palate savors notes of juicy black cherries with a hint of freshly picked blueberries.   Of surprise to most connoisseurs, Caymus blends a bit of Petite Sirah into its Zinfandel.   Characterized by a lovely acidity, the wine also presents finely grained tannins and structure.   Caymus’ 2006 Zinfandel levels the palate with class, complexity and raw seduction.   Purely a masculine wine, it is not so overpowering as to shy away the palate of the gentler sex.

Pulling myself back to culinary reality, at first I was concerned that perhaps I had met a wine that I could not do justice with my recipes.  And frankly, that still may be the case as each sip of this powerhouse wine renews a genuine enduring love affair.   In my bag of culinary tricks, I knew that I had little that could truly measure up to the caliber of this wine, however, I did have a unique sauce which is enough of a savory powerhouse in its own merit that it influenced this week’s menu:

1)      Blueberry-Chipotle Barbequed Baby Back Ribs; and

2)     Roasted Butternut Squash-Potato Skewers.

With a Blueberry-Chipotle Barbeque Sauce, sweet meets seductive smoky spice.   The acidity in the wine pairs well with the light acidity of the sauce and the robust blueberries coax forward the Petite Sirah that is blended into the Zinfandel.  Choosing to use meatier baby back ribs is purposeful since the wine is “substance”; it attracts its like kind.  Slow-cooked on a covered charcoal grill on the back deck, the ribs create a lovely smoked aroma to tantalize the senses while sipping the wine.

Putting together skewers loaded with two types of potatoes and cubes of butternut squash ripe from my garden, is a pleasant palate pleaser to accompany the rich, smoky notes of the Blueberry-Chipotle Barbequed Baby Back Ribs.   Seasoned with light olive oil, sea salt, freshly ground black pepper and thyme picked from the garden, the mix is like a loving caress of soft, sweet earthy flavors and textures so as to not interrupt the wine from taking full center stage.  When tasted with the wine, the Roasted Butternut Squash and Potatoes accentuate the gentle blueberry notes in the wine.

When guests sit down to a creative wine and food pairing, I am accustomed to a quiet hush falling over the table as delights are savored.   But even as the hostess, Caymus’ 2006 Zinfandel still manages to render me speechless with each smell and taste that the palate draws.  A fitting end to proverbial summer is Caymus’ 2006 Zinfandel.   As coy as the wine’s nose may be, the wine itself is not a fickle infatuation as it is powered with surprising substance and a lingering finish that is poetically suited to the final cataloguing of summer memories.

As summer winds down and fall waits patiently around the corner, last “hurrahs” are sought in the final full week of August.   People push to find time to entertain outdoors and grasp at the final elements of summer to savor until next year.   It seems this summer has passed faster than others past and this week in order to put a proverbial exclamation point on the end of a favorite season, a much-loved bottle of Bubbles is opened. 

As prior archived articles have discussed, “Bubbles” is the fond casual term for sparkling wine in the United States (which is not allowed to be officially referred to as “champagne” due to the geographic location where it is made).   Not all sparkling wines are alike and as introduced this past spring there are a variety of styles in which they are made, including “demi-sec”, which is described as sweet and contains 3.3 to 5 percent sugar (see my archived article “Break out the Bubbles for Budbreak” for further technical discussion).  In the world of sparkling wine, “demi-sec” (and the even sweeter “doux”) wines are known as the “dessert wines”.   But do not be fooled, these wines are not of the traditional sugary sweet characteristics that many associate with dessert wines.   Instead, it is the “demi-sec” wines which come across as exotic and often offer unique aromas, texture and flavoring.

Schramsberg Vineyards (“Schramsberg”), founded in 1862 and located in Napa Valley, is highly regarded for its sparkling wine.   A visit to the winery is enough to enchant anyone and it is not a bad life to spend a few moments sipping bubbles in the solitude of a candlelit cave.  Yet even without the ambience, it is the high quality of the varied flight of sparkling varietals that they produce which captivates the winery’s patrons.  Among the wines produced, Schramsberg does make an off-dry dessert-style wine called “Crémant Demi-sec” (“Crémant”).   Interestingly enough, it is this sparkling wine that is served more often at While House events and notably was served at President Ronald Reagan’s Second Inaugural Luncheon and President Clinton’s dinner for the prime minister of Canada.  

Learning about the composition of the Crémant prior to actually tasting the wine immediately provides some insight as to why it might be selected over other sparkling wines for White House affairs.   While many sparkling wines choose to make the Chardonnay grape as the foundation of their production, the Crémant’s composition consists of 88% Flora, 10% Chardonnay and 2% Gewürztraminer.   Flora?   Yes, Flora, a grape that many are unfamiliar with and yet another testament to the notion that no matter how much one knows about wine, there is always something new to learn or even a lesser known varietal to discover.

Flora is a unique California grape.   It was developed at UC Davis and is a cross of Sémillon and Gewürztraminer.   The combination of these two vines creates a powerhouse of a grape.   Gewürztraminer, which is known for its fruit and ever-present spice, meets the strength of Sémillon (which is often known for deep honeyed notes in other dessert wines).   Imagine a grape that is truly exotic in its nose, fruit-forwardness and spiced components coupled with the strong, smooth creamy and honeyed nature of Sémillon:  that vision is a reality known as the grape Flora. 

With Flora’s characteristics in mind, it is apparent why Schramsberg would name its demi-sec sparkling wine “Crémant” (which means “creamy”).    In a traditional sense, Crémant is also appropriate in the sense that it is used to refer to a sparkling wine which has a softer effervescence.

Opening a bottle of Schramsberg’s 2005 Crémant is a treat well worth waiting for and it is no wonder that this wine appears so frequently at White House State affairs.   The sparkling wine flows richly forth into the glass without the typical effervescence of other sparkling wines.   Not to be mistaken, this glass of sparkling is complete with tiny, ornate bubbles gently rising to the top.   Admiring the wine in the glass, it is easy on the eyes as the senses get lost in the wine’s deep golden color.   Taking a curious quick first sip, the Crémant meets expectations by matching the wine’s appearance and is like liquid gold on the palate.  Mesmerized by the texture, the wine is decadently smooth with just the right amount of weight as if a satin sheet is gliding across the palate.   Deep rich lumbering aromas of toasted oak and melted caramel flirt with a slight perfume of honeysuckle.  Waken by the nose of the wine, the palate presently picks up buttered popcorn, French vanilla, toast, a breath of lemon meringue and a hint of ginger to be entertained by a lingering finish of candied orange.   The sweetness in the wine is delicate and balanced by a subtle acidity, such that succulent rich flavors tumble across the palate.   Due to the exotic nature of the wine coupled with its fine crafted balance, the palate finds itself carefully savoring each flavor and hungrily searching for more.

While the wine looks presidential and on the palate certainly embosses a golden seal, the Crémant is still affordable in the realm of sparkling wine and can be guiltlessly paired.  However, not wishing to squander the decadence of this wine, an elegant dessert pairing is merited.   While many would race to pair crème brûlée, (which, admittedly, would  be heavenly), the 2005 Crémant merits a creative dessert pairing that will equally impress guests:

·         Lemon Blueberry Tiramisu

In creating a Lemon Blueberry Tiramisu, refreshing fresh lemon meets juicy seasonal blueberries as a “hail to the chief” of the final days of summer.   While the dessert itself looks fancy, it can easily and moreover casually be made to win over even the most cantankerous of guests.

In this multi-stage recipe, the ingredients are largely fresh lemon, blueberries, ladyfingers, mascarpone, lemon curd and two types of sugar.   While there is no vanilla in the recipe, when paired with the 2005 Crémant the wine adds that flavor to soothe any residual acidity in the dessert.   Nuances of toast or bread pudding in the wine accentuate the flavors from the ladyfingers in the tiramisu.  The citrus notes of the lemon in the tiramisu are compatible with the exotic fruit in the wine.  Despite being a demi-sec sparkling wine, the deep notes contributed by the Flora grape in the 2005 Crémant also tame the sugar in the tiramisu bringing forth perfect harmony in a dessert course.

Flavor wise, the Lemon Blueberry Tiramisu was frankly, insanely good.  The dessert is astounding decadent without overwhelming the palate.   While the wine was reverently sipped to take in its exotic rich nature, similarly the Lemon Blueberry Tiramisu was slowly savored as if wishing that neither would end.  A quiet hush fell over my guests and the consensus was that with the pairing of the 2005 Crémant, it was a dessert course of the caliber and worthy of a 5 star San Francisco restaurant while being served in the comfort and seclusion of a summery backyard.   Once assembled, the dessert has to refrigerate for six hours or longer; given the caliber, quality and overall “wow factor” of this dessert, however, if spending an afternoon to prepare Lemon Blueberry Tiramisu for guests is “wrong”, then I don’t wanna be “right”.

Napa Valley, traditionally known for its warm climate for growing grapes, does house a few American Viticultural Areas (each an “AVA”) which are cooler in temperature and best-suited for growing grapes such as Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay.    Most commonly recognized is Los Carneros AVA located at the southern end of the valley, but just slightly north sits sleepy Oak Knoll AVA which is regarded to produce highly regarded Chardonnay grapes.

As you cruise through Napa Valley, from time to time you will see a small sign either indicating in which AVA a particular vineyard sits or even a sign that you are entering or leaving a certain AVA.   For those geography enthusiasts, the Oak Knoll AVA sits directly south of Yountville but north of Trancas Street in the town of Napa.  It extends as far west as the base of Mt. Veeder and as far east as the Silverado Trail.   This basically is the area that you first drive through as you are leaving the town of Napa to head up valley past the seemingly endless rows of grape vines.  

Located in the Oak Knoll AVA is the Laird Family Winery (“Laird”), on the western side of the valley off of Highway 29.    Laird’s physical location is in an ideal spot for growing terrific Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes.   If that is not enough to keep the winery occupied, Laird is also the largest landowner in the valley with its holdings strategically placed in several different AVAs.    In Napa Valley, it is said that Laird owns more land than any other winery and thereby is privy to some of the best grapes grown throughout the valley for the vinification of a number of varietals.   Couple in the fact that Laird also keeps its prices reasonable given the high quality of the wine produced, this winery is a gem of a discovery to anyone seeking a family owned winery.

A star example of the caliber of the wine that Laird is capable of producing is its 2006 Red Hen Ranch Chardonnay (“Red Hen Chardonnay”).    The Red Hen Ranch vineyard is located where the actual winery sits in the Oak Knoll AVA.   The vineyard is located thus on the western side of Napa Valley’s floor (which is known for its gravelly soil and terrific drainage).  Picking grapes from this vineyard allows Laird to produce a beautifully elegant estate wine with 100% Chardonnay grapes.

During production, Laird’s Red Hen Chardonnay experiences 100% malolactic fermentation, 100% barrel fermentation, of which 50% used is new French oak and ultimately spends a total of 15 months in the barrel during the aging process.   Often in California, when a wine has experienced oak exposure, it runs the risk of being over-oaked and becomes a big toasty butterball Chardonnay reminiscent of the 1980’s.   At Laird, the Red Hen Chardonnay will fool many to think that perhaps the wine is unoaked:  meaning, that the wine is that clean in taste and the actual Chardonnay grape can be experienced on the palate.   Pouring the wine into the glass, the nose is met with lovely nuances of pear, honeysuckle and melon with a slight perfume of toasted oak.     On the palate, there is a slight initial tickle of acidity that makes one think of green apple, yet that sensation is quickly whisked away by a smooth, juicy wine characterized by cantaloupe, ginger spice and pear.   This Chardonnay is not “flabby” by any means, but instead is pleasantly vibrant with a lovely balance and an elegant mouth feel.   And oak?  Not to disappoint traditional Chardonnay enthusiasts, the wine is characterized by the perfect kiss of oak so as to preserve the integrity of the grape.   I am not alone identifying this wine as a high quality find as The Wine Spectator has rated this wine with 93 points.

As the warm evening breeze brushes across the back deck and catches the top of the wine glass, the aromas of Napa Valley in late August come forth from the wine.   Whether it is the smell of ripening grapes or that slight alluvial dust in the wind in Napa, this wine merits a menu that perhaps appears simple, yet the combination of ingredients involved truly embody wine country cuisine:

1)      Grilled Marinated Stuffed Chicken Breast; and

2)     Grilled Marinated Glazed Carrots.

Prior to starting the chicken, a quick marinade involving chardonnay, garlic and other ingredients is put together.    Taking boneless, skinless chicken breasts, the poultry is then properly trimmed and prepared such that it can be stuffed.    In a sauté pan, minced garlic and shallot from the garden are heated, while adding fresh thyme (also from the garden) to heat.    Once finished, diced Carmelo heirloom tomato is added.   A thin layer of provolone cheese is added to the chicken breasts before placing the tomato mixture atop and sealing the chicken breasts shut.    Once sealed the chicken breasts are basted with the marinade and carefully set atop a charcoal grill.

To have alongside, carrots from the garden are thinly sliced and basted in the marinade and roasted atop the grill.

Plating the meal is misleading as it looks simple and not exciting.   However, the aromas from the plate are enticing.

Slicing open the chicken breast, inside is the savory filling.

Taking the wine with the chicken, the acidity of the tomatoes captures the light balanced acidity of the wine.   In doing so, it brings forth flavors in the wine akin to roasted apples with a brush of crème fraiche.   The flavors of the chardonnay laden marinade naturally tie to the wine and the similar combination of shallot, garlic and fresh thyme capture essential flavors found through much of traditional California wine country cuisine.   The carrots, which were gently caramelized in the marinade over the charcoal grill, are sweet yet sophisticated bringing forth unanticipated flavor and depth.

Whether you find yourself on a back deck in Napa proper or parked outdoors on a late August evening elsewhere, Laird’s Red Hen Chardonnay combined with a meal such as this captures the very essence of fresh vibrant flavors of Napa Valley.   Enjoying them, it is easy to find that without much effort memories of either a relaxing wine country vacation or a simple trip up valley can be recreated as the golden hues of that Chardonnay capture some of the last of summer’s evening light.

Coasting into the second week of August, many find themselves making a “Summer Bucket List” filled with things and activities that seemingly must be done before summer ends.   There is one wine in Napa Valley that quintessentially captures the essence of summer and for me, it would be remiss to not feature it:  Benessere Vineyards’ (“Benessere”) Pinot Grigio.

For those who have been following over the course of the last year, you will realize that I did feature this wine last summer.    Typically I feature a different wine every week.    While there is not a shortage of varietals in Napa Valley, there are few wineries that make a Pinot Grigio which consistently exceeds expectations and amazes the palate per pour.   In all fairness, Pinot Grigio is not a varietal that is planted widely throughout California.   Instead there are small plantings of the grape in Napa Valley (primarily in the Carneros American Viticultural Area) and also in Monterrey.    Provided that you are familiar with the geography of each of these locations, you will readily recognize that each area experiences cooler temperatures and is also blessed with cool oceanic fog.   These conditions produce idyllic Pinot Grigio grapes capable of producing a favorite summer wine able to grace any table or entertain any setting.

There are characteristics about Benessere’s Pinot Grigio which make it stand out from other offerings in Napa Valley.   Often the acidity in a Pinot Grigio can be off which can cause that urge to “pucker” when tasting this varietal.   Year after year, Benessere produces a Pinot Grigio which offers the perfect balance of acidity which has convinced countless white wine doubters to eagerly embrace a glass of the winery’s varietal.

Pouring the wine into the glass, the nose is entranced by lovely tropical notes and white peach, jasmine and lilting honeysuckle.   On the palate, the acidity is in balance, the wine is crisp and refreshing while flavors of mango, peach, melon and pineapple tumble forth like a cornucopia of goodness.   While the wine may sound like a sweet tooth’s delight, the sugar content is in check and instead that crisp light acidity balances otherwise sweet fruit from overwhelming the palate.

Given the terrific balance of acidity and the fresh tropical fruit flavors in the wine, this week’s menu is designed to show off the wine’s versatility with some culinary creativity:

1)      Californian-Asian Cucumber Salad; and

2)     Creole Tilapia Atop Cherry Tomato Infused Creole Brown Rice.

The Californian-Asian Cucumber Salad is a vibrant medley of spice, heat, cool yet sweet flavors.   Pickling cucumbers are still being abundantly harvested from the garden, along with chives, cilantro and chocolate mint.   Rather than travel the typical path of using rice vinegar, I elected to use a Raspberry Champagne Vinegar from a winery in Sonoma.   Champagne Vinegar is breathtakingly light and with the addition of a raspberry flavor, it is bouncy and lively.   Taken together with Benessere’s Pinot Grigio, the dish pairs beautifully and incorporates the tropical fruit notes of the wine.

Creating a Creole Tilapia is quick and simple.   It can be made either on the grill in a roasting pan or in the oven.   Tilapia is a light buttery white fish and in this dish it meets Cajun spiced cherry tomatoes and green pepper picked fresh from the garden.   Placed atop a brown rice cooked in the juice of Sungold and Sweet Baby Girl cherry tomatoes with a dash of Old Bay Seasoning, creates a light and flavorful dish that will not be overwhelmed by the selected wine.

Enjoying the Creole Tilapia with Benessere’s Pinot Grigio is a match made in heaven.   The wine’s tropical notes and flavors of melon are delicately sweet and easily embrace the sweetness of the cherry tomatoes.

Singing praises for Benessere’s Pinot Grigio is easy to do and if you have not opened a bottle yet this summer, August is the time to hurry up and do so.    Chase those fading rays of summer evening sun, reflect on the months that have sped by all too quickly and with your wine glass in hand, enjoy delicious, easy-going, tropical summer kisses on a warm August evening.

Warm weather draws people outdoors and from there, they are intuitively drawn to their grills.   Grill tops are adorned with a variety of creative fare from ripe garden vegetables, freshly picked corn, sizzling steaks and barbecued chicken to juicy stone fruit.  The wines which accompany these grilled delights vary across the varietal spectrum and while Zinfandels are readily selected to serve, Syrahs are often mistakenly sidelined.

Syrah wines, while increasingly produced in Napa Valley, are still often a misunderstood Rhône varietal by much of the public.   The age of the Syrah in question will determine a great deal about its characteristics.   For example, when a Syrah is young, it is often loaded with pepper and spice and characterized by strong tannins.   As the wine ages, however, maturation is kind and brings forth elements of sweet black fruit and smoky nuances.   In other words, a Syrah can be very different depending on when it is bottled and when it is subsequently opened.   For those who love to explore a wine and study how it develops, Syrah is a fun varietal.   Syrahs age quite nicely (if stored properly) and can easily age longer than ten years post-bottling.  

This week, to select a wine, I decided to pull a Syrah that I purchased in the fall of 2008.   Given that it has been intentionally stored in the spirit of “out of sight, out of mind,” memory had lapsed thinking that perhaps in late 2010 it might be time to check on that Syrah and consume it.   Searching through the collection, there still sat two bottles of Alpha Omega Winery’s (“Alpha Omega”) Syrah.   Pulling them from the shelves, low and behold, I discovered that they were bottled in 2007!   (This meaning, purchasing a Syrah in 2008 after only sitting in the bottle for one year would make the Syrah at the time of sale very young.)  Nevertheless, it is 2010, now approximately three years post-bottling, this Syrah should be an interesting discovery to see just where aging had taken it.

Opening Alpha Omega’s 2007 Syrah, the wine tumbles into the glass with coloring dark as night.  Looking at the rim of the wine in the glass, there is the slow ember hue of ruby.   Its nose has matured since I originally discovered it in the tasting room, as it proffers forward notes of blackberry, plum, allspice and anise, dressed with a slight lavender perfume.   Taking these aromas into account, I began dinner preparation and allowed the wine to decant in the glass for about 20 minutes before taking my first sip.   There was no disappointment as my palate experienced an elegantly smooth wine with now refined tannins with lovely notes of ripe red plum, thyme and soft caramel.

The wine’s characteristics on the palate were anticipated simply from personal experience, but the nose of the wine guided my determination for this week’s menu:

1)      Grilled PorkChop with a Cinnamon-Allspice Rub;

2)     Grilled Red and Black Plums with Honeyed Chevré; and

3)     Haricots Verts Almondine.

Putting together the seasoning rub for the grilled porkchops is highly driven by the bouquet of the wine paired.   Given that I did identify anise and allspice in the wine, I blended proportional amounts of cinnamon, allspice, clove, black peppercorn and salt to make a rub which would compliment dark fruit on the palate and yet continue to coax forth sultry spice elements in the wine.

August is a terrific time to find seasonal plums at the grocery store or the local produce stand.   Slicing them in half, brushing them with honey and then placing them face down on a hot grill will help soften the fruit and ebb away some of the tartness typically attributed to plums.   Finally, after discovering honeyed chevré last week, I am still enamored and thought that it would be the perfect touch to the grilled fruit.

Similarly, as summer lumbers forth, green beans are being harvested daily in large bunches from the garden.   Just as it has been a task to incorporate zucchini in prior meals, it is imperative to find an appropriate use for green beans.  Almonds are freshly sliced and sautéed in melted butter and then freshly blanched green beans are added to finish heating with a dash of salt to add a French twist to the meal in the spirit of traditional Haricots Verts Almondine.

Plated together and taken with the wine is a lovely combination of cinnamon, spice and everything nice.

Taking the grilled plums and honeyed chevré with the wine, it is simple to see that deep flavors of roasted plums would come forth in the Syrah as well.   Plums inherently pair well with porkchops and when taken together here, cinnamon, allspice and clove add an air of mystery and intrigue with the wine.   The 2007 Syrah, still being a young wine, does set forth a certain tartness but it is tempered when taken with the pork.   For any guest lamenting for more smoke in his or her Syrah, the Haricots Verts Almondine allows that quality to shine forth in the wine due to the earthy nature of the green beans and the flavor of the almonds.

The meal itself is a lovely way to enjoy the last full month of summer while taking advantage of seasonal produce and firing up the outdoor grill.   The addition of a Syrah adds an element of intrigue for as this 2007 Syrah is still young, it exhibits enough substantial characteristics to be elegantly enjoyed now or similarly hints as to where it might go with more aging.   That second bottle of this wine still sits in my collection, for it waits for that undetermined day to be revisited again and reveal what else it has gained from aging.