Aug 18 2010

A Kiss of Oak, Chardonnay

Published by at 2:46 pm under Chardonnay,Chicken,Food,Vegetarian,White Wine

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Napa Valley, traditionally known for its warm climate for growing grapes, does house a few American Viticultural Areas (each an “AVA”) which are cooler in temperature and best-suited for growing grapes such as Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay.    Most commonly recognized is Los Carneros AVA located at the southern end of the valley, but just slightly north sits sleepy Oak Knoll AVA which is regarded to produce highly regarded Chardonnay grapes.

As you cruise through Napa Valley, from time to time you will see a small sign either indicating in which AVA a particular vineyard sits or even a sign that you are entering or leaving a certain AVA.   For those geography enthusiasts, the Oak Knoll AVA sits directly south of Yountville but north of Trancas Street in the town of Napa.  It extends as far west as the base of Mt. Veeder and as far east as the Silverado Trail.   This basically is the area that you first drive through as you are leaving the town of Napa to head up valley past the seemingly endless rows of grape vines.  

Located in the Oak Knoll AVA is the Laird Family Winery (“Laird”), on the western side of the valley off of Highway 29.    Laird’s physical location is in an ideal spot for growing terrific Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes.   If that is not enough to keep the winery occupied, Laird is also the largest landowner in the valley with its holdings strategically placed in several different AVAs.    In Napa Valley, it is said that Laird owns more land than any other winery and thereby is privy to some of the best grapes grown throughout the valley for the vinification of a number of varietals.   Couple in the fact that Laird also keeps its prices reasonable given the high quality of the wine produced, this winery is a gem of a discovery to anyone seeking a family owned winery.

A star example of the caliber of the wine that Laird is capable of producing is its 2006 Red Hen Ranch Chardonnay (“Red Hen Chardonnay”).    The Red Hen Ranch vineyard is located where the actual winery sits in the Oak Knoll AVA.   The vineyard is located thus on the western side of Napa Valley’s floor (which is known for its gravelly soil and terrific drainage).  Picking grapes from this vineyard allows Laird to produce a beautifully elegant estate wine with 100% Chardonnay grapes.

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During production, Laird’s Red Hen Chardonnay experiences 100% malolactic fermentation, 100% barrel fermentation, of which 50% used is new French oak and ultimately spends a total of 15 months in the barrel during the aging process.   Often in California, when a wine has experienced oak exposure, it runs the risk of being over-oaked and becomes a big toasty butterball Chardonnay reminiscent of the 1980’s.   At Laird, the Red Hen Chardonnay will fool many to think that perhaps the wine is unoaked:  meaning, that the wine is that clean in taste and the actual Chardonnay grape can be experienced on the palate.   Pouring the wine into the glass, the nose is met with lovely nuances of pear, honeysuckle and melon with a slight perfume of toasted oak.     On the palate, there is a slight initial tickle of acidity that makes one think of green apple, yet that sensation is quickly whisked away by a smooth, juicy wine characterized by cantaloupe, ginger spice and pear.   This Chardonnay is not “flabby” by any means, but instead is pleasantly vibrant with a lovely balance and an elegant mouth feel.   And oak?  Not to disappoint traditional Chardonnay enthusiasts, the wine is characterized by the perfect kiss of oak so as to preserve the integrity of the grape.   I am not alone identifying this wine as a high quality find as The Wine Spectator has rated this wine with 93 points.

As the warm evening breeze brushes across the back deck and catches the top of the wine glass, the aromas of Napa Valley in late August come forth from the wine.   Whether it is the smell of ripening grapes or that slight alluvial dust in the wind in Napa, this wine merits a menu that perhaps appears simple, yet the combination of ingredients involved truly embody wine country cuisine:

1)      Grilled Marinated Stuffed Chicken Breast; and

2)     Grilled Marinated Glazed Carrots.

Prior to starting the chicken, a quick marinade involving chardonnay, garlic and other ingredients is put together.    Taking boneless, skinless chicken breasts, the poultry is then properly trimmed and prepared such that it can be stuffed.    In a sauté pan, minced garlic and shallot from the garden are heated, while adding fresh thyme (also from the garden) to heat.    Once finished, diced Carmelo heirloom tomato is added.   A thin layer of provolone cheese is added to the chicken breasts before placing the tomato mixture atop and sealing the chicken breasts shut.    Once sealed the chicken breasts are basted with the marinade and carefully set atop a charcoal grill.

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To have alongside, carrots from the garden are thinly sliced and basted in the marinade and roasted atop the grill.

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Plating the meal is misleading as it looks simple and not exciting.   However, the aromas from the plate are enticing.

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Slicing open the chicken breast, inside is the savory filling.

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Taking the wine with the chicken, the acidity of the tomatoes captures the light balanced acidity of the wine.   In doing so, it brings forth flavors in the wine akin to roasted apples with a brush of crème fraiche.   The flavors of the chardonnay laden marinade naturally tie to the wine and the similar combination of shallot, garlic and fresh thyme capture essential flavors found through much of traditional California wine country cuisine.   The carrots, which were gently caramelized in the marinade over the charcoal grill, are sweet yet sophisticated bringing forth unanticipated flavor and depth.

Whether you find yourself on a back deck in Napa proper or parked outdoors on a late August evening elsewhere, Laird’s Red Hen Chardonnay combined with a meal such as this captures the very essence of fresh vibrant flavors of Napa Valley.   Enjoying them, it is easy to find that without much effort memories of either a relaxing wine country vacation or a simple trip up valley can be recreated as the golden hues of that Chardonnay capture some of the last of summer’s evening light.

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