Every so often I like to feature a food and wine pairing that dispels the traditional safe notions that (i) white wine pairs with poultry and fish and (ii) red wine pairs best with red meat and pork.   While in many circumstances the traditional rule is best followed, a vast creative world awaits your departure thereof.   In reality, the method of preparation (as opposed to the protein) will determine the dish’s versatility for pairing with various wines.  In the past week I caught myself in two separate instances having a conversation about chemistry being the foundation of recipes:   depending on the ingredients used, the dish’s acidity or the sugar content can be affected greatly and change the protein’s identity in the meal.  Chemistry similarly carries over to wine as the pH level largely dictates a wine’s food pairing capability.   Certain varietals are more acidic than others, with such designation not sitting solely with white wines.   Red wines can also be acidic (for example, Barbera, Charbono and Aglianico) but I have found that aside from the varietal itself, this can also stem from the age of the grape vine or the soil where the vine is planted.

Stagecoach Vineyard, located 1200 feet above Oakville and below Atlas Peak, is a relatively young vineyard in that it was started in 1995 by the Krupp Family and if you find yourself touring around by car you will feel as if you are in a set almost out of an old Western movie.   The vineyard’s location is dry with bright and seemingly never-ending sunshine, complete with sagebrush vegetation.  Beneath the top of the soil sits a rocky and volcanic terroir  which completes the image of desolate dryness yet will cause any wine aficionado to salivate with anticipation.   The vineyard itself is the largest contiguous mountain planting in Napa Valley and the Krupp Family grows grapes for over 40 renowned vineyards.   If association by vintner is not enough, the vineyard also saddles up to the southern side of Pritchard Hill (which is well-regarded for its grapes).

Taking into account the vineyard’s date of existence and its soil, it will not surprise the palate that red wine varietal grapes grown at the Stagecoach Vineyard are going to boast bright, fresh acidity.   Knowing this in advance will help prepare the palate for the flavors that ensue and how to best pair these wines with food.

Robert Biale Vineyards (“Biale”), long known for its prowess in all things Zinfandel, values this site enough to have its own block (the “Biale Block”) tucked into this vineyard such that it looks out over the entire Napa Valley from Carneros to Calistoga.   Looking down on Oakville, the Biale Block consists of plantings of old Biale clones on old fashioned St. George rootstock.   Biale likes to hold this out as “the most serious work in the modern era to keep the legacy of Napa Zinfandel going strong” and with a taste of Biale’s 2007 Stagecoach Vineyard Zinfandel (Biale Block) the winery’s confidence is clearly understood.

Despite the relative youth of the vines, the wine barrels through the mouth with undeniable presence and sophistication.   The acidity is bright and welcoming for a Zinfandel and perhaps the most distinguishing feature of this wine is the unique yet readily recognizable pomegranate nose.   The nose, ladled with pomegranate is followed by a wisp of the aroma of cranberry sauce and the palate presents refreshing flavors of raspberry, gentle white pepper, minerality and toffee.  

Given the distinct acidity and bright red fruit found in this wine, the food pairing will need something that can match the acidity yet not overpower the aromas and flavors found therein.   Taking this into consideration, this week’s menu creatively boasts:

·         Slow Roasted Pollo a la Uva Atop Sautéed Zucchini and Caramelized Onion

Far more often than not, when I have been visiting a winery, I have been asked, “What wine pairs with Mexican food?”   The answer is just as long and detailed as such a question so vaguely framed merits.   Mexican food is defined and comprehended by people so differently, as well as it should.   Mexico, just like the United States, has its various regional culinary styles (not including the United States’ interpretation of “Mexican fare”).   Much of my time living abroad was spent in Central Mexico and Mexico City.   The cuisine of Central Mexico has held a soft spot in my heart as its flavors can be as delicate, layered, sweet and poetic as sophisticated cuisine of Europe.   Fittingly, this week’s recipe “Pollo a la Uva” (meaning Chicken with Grapes) reflects this style of cooking and has its origins in Aguascalientes, Mexico, which is located in the center of Mexico and is often referred to as “el Corazon” (the heart) of the country.  

Of unique importance, this recipe does not contain a single chile pepper, cilantro, cumin or other hot spice.   Instead it yields sweet tomatoes (which are known for their acidity), celery, herbs, garlic, onion, wine, chicken (of course) and grapes.   Grapes?   Yes, grapes.   Grapes thrive in the area where Aguascalientes sits.

Originally in the colonial period, Spanish settlers brought over a Spanish vine to be grafted onto the indigenous Mission vine.   As grape growing took off, Spanish authorities began to fear that the wine produced in this area would compete with Spanish wines which were being imported to the New World and by 1771 banned the production of not only grapes but olives, too.   At that point, anyone found growing vines or olive trees would suffer heavy penalities.   Fortunately much later in time, the grape industry and wineries were revitalized in Mexico and grapes can have an appropriate place in cuisine.

The chicken itself is first brined in white wine and ultimately slowly cooked in a medley of heirloom tomatoes from the garden, white onion, celery, garlic and herbs.   Both thyme and marjoram thrive in my garden and while I have a rather constant culinary love affair with the thyme plant, the presently thriving marjoram has captivated my fickle senses with its gorgeous perfumed aromatics.  Given the delicate balance of flavors in this dish, I cannot imagine using anything but fresh herbs to give the dish the proper personality.   Once the chicken has been slowly roasted in the oven, the vegetables are blended to create a sauce akin to the sophistication of those found in French cooking.   With the addition of wine and ultimately grapes towards the end of simmering, the sauce ultimately takes on a bright, slightly sweet sophisticated flavor that can only be attributed to Central Mexican cuisine.   The kitchen smells like a first class restaurant and my guests are salivating in the living room.

To plate the meal, thinly sliced strips of garden fresh zucchini are gently sautéed in a spritz of roasted garlic olive oil and thin slices of onion are caramelized in the same covered pan.

Pairing with the wine is a spectacular display of the versatility of a Zinfandel with poultry.   The acidity of the tomatoes and the grapes each combine to create a soft sweetness that seemingly magically dispels the acidity found in this bright Biale Stagecoach Vineyard Zinfandel and instead allows the lovely fresh flavors of pomegranate and raspberry in the wine to shine through.    While young, the wine’s spices add depth and the gentle notes of white pepper also ensure that the pairing with the food is balanced.   

While celery is added to this recipe it is sparingly used such that it just gives a subtle layer of depth and flavor such that my guests could not quite determine what was included in my recipe.   The heated grapes burst with a unique sweetness that impressed even the most discerning palate sitting at my table this week.  Given that wine is included in the sauce and brined the chicken, at times it renders a flavor in the dish almost akin to a rosy plum sauce.   The zucchini used to plate the dish was included not only for color but for its subtle earthy vegetal flavor which pairs well with lingering herbal notes found in the wine.

In the end, while finishing the wine in the glass, I stole to the pantry to produce some simple baked oatmeal cookies.   While not shown here, the baking spices in the simplicity of a plain oatmeal cookie accentuate the toffee, vanilla and spice of the wine, rendering it as the perfect simple palate cleanser after a meal well done.  

As warm autumn afternoons meet the cool breeze of early evening and for as long as grapes abound, Pollo a la Uva will be on my culinary calendar each October long before my palate begins to crave the heavier dishes of winter.

This past week Mother Nature gripped California in an angry heat wave as if to remind every “Doubting Thomas” statewide that wrathful heat was possible despite prior “cold” summer conditions.  Despite the climatic vengeance that ensued during the first official week of autumn, temperatures are now beginning to stabilize.  

While oppressive heat may be uncomfortable and unwelcome at any time of the year, in the garden there is a vegetable that can benefit from such hot and dry conditions:  the butternut squash.   I am amused when friends gawk in amazement that I will grow butternut squash and often they assume that I must have some giant expanse of land to grow these squash.   As often indicated in my articles, most produce that I use each week is grown in my own organic garden.   Before imaginations run wild, I do not live on an expansive farm but have a simple backyard and outdoor space much like many.   Much of my gardening is done from seed and butternut squash is no exception.   In fact for those living in California, butternut squash is quite easy to grow and prolific (as my neighbors last year witnessed as brown bags of squash were dropped off on front porches).

Butternut squash enjoys heat and sun.   It is such a low maintenance vegetable that it does not even require fancy soil compositions.   To prove as an example, I cleared out a small area of an otherwise unused rock bed.    Making two mounds of dirt with a dash of peat moss and some organic fertilizer, seeds were tucked into the ground.   Soon the plants sprouted and were off and running.

As the two plants continued to grow, they spread across the rocks and brightly colored squash blossoms decorated the green leaves until tucked beneath appeared young squash.

Within a couple of months, these green squash turned that soft pale hue characteristic of ripe butternut squash and harvesting began.   How much harvesting?   67 butternut squash in total were picked last year alone.  My entire block agreed happily that butternut squash was indeed prolific.

Clearly 67 butternut squash is too much for one person to consume and there is only so much freezer space that can be reasonably allotted for these gems.  After donating some to a local food bank and gifting many to neighbors, the rest are used for freezing and in an abundance of fall recipes. 

From a wine pairing perspective, butternut squash sidles up deliciously with Chardonnay.   Chardonnay for me personally is a tough sell as there are many other white wines that I adore.   The over-processed oak butterballs that have traditionally represented California Chardonnay never grace my table and frankly, never will manipulate the palate of any dining guest of mine.   That being said, pairing Chardonnay with butternut squash can be tricky.  My personal palate leans in the direction of the un-oaked or slightly oaked Chardonnays (and the latter can run quite expensive).   This week, I pulled an uncharacteristic choice from collection as it hails from a larger, more commercial winery (as opposed to the typical smaller family-owned gems that I prefer to feature).   Yet, the reasoning for featuring this wine is two-fold.  The Chardonnay in question is pleasant and delightful on its own with its golden apple and nutty aromas, but it has a specific unique factor that my palate pulls from the wine:  a macadamia nut finish.   Secondly, the wine is far more affordable than some of its $50 and up counterparts.   The Napa Valley Chardonnay from Castillo de Amoroso has a more casual appeal as a result and it fits well with the nature of this week’s menu:

1)      Garden Mixed Lettuce Salad With Chardonnay Braised Figs, Gorgonzola and Champagne Pear Vinaigrette; and

2)     Roasted Butternut Squash Lasagna.

Salad pairs perfectly with the light nature of most Napa Valley Chardonnay wines.   Add some freshly picked figs which have been braised in white wine and the figs will pick up the delicious golden apple notes of this wine in particular.   Dress the salad in champagne-pear vinaigrette and the side dish will have the proper acidity, sweetness and texture to accompany a good glass of Chardonnay.

Creating small boats of Roasted Butternut Squash Lasagna is advised given the rich nature of my recipe.   The theme of a “little goes a long way” when you realize that the sauce for this lasagna is none other than a Gorgonzola Cream Sauce boasting careful amounts of garden-plucked shallots, sage, cream, parmesan cheese and sliced gorgonzola.

Roasted Butternut Squash is pureed to include slowly caramelized shallots, freshly picked thyme and sage from the garden, nutmeg and other seasonings.   Layered with cooked lasagna noodles and Gorgonzola Cream Sauce, “heaven” begins to bake in your oven and notify your neighbors that something divine is about to hit the table.

Soft, creamy and silky textures a slowly savored as gooey parmesan and gorgonzola cheese add salt and depth of flavors to the dish.   Remembering to sip the Chardonnay, the golden apple notes embrace the flavor of the butternut squash as a refreshing slight citrus zest cuts through the gorgonzola.   Of greater importance is the lovely macadamia nut finish found on Castillo de Amoroso’s Napa Valley Chardonnay:   it serves as almost an additional ingredient to the dish itself and comfortably transitions the palate for the next bite of Butternut Squash Lasagna bliss.

While the winery Castillo de Amoroso has a greater commercialized feel than those that I typically visit, this wine in particular proves that unique qualities can be found in larger environments such as this.   If careful enough attention is paid to what is being tasted, you will also recognize hidden jewels that uniquely pair with certain acts in your culinary repertoire.

*Look for The Casual Connoisseur fan page on Facebook for article postings, fun facts, quick weekend culinary creations and more.   Cheers!

Autumn has arrived.   Some parts of the country are still experiencing unseasonably warm temperatures reminiscent of a typical Southern California autumn and yet Napa Valley is gently coasting into fall with cooler evenings, early rain showers and a sense that summer has been left behind with a sad wave in the rear-view mirror.   As much as I lament the end of lazy warm summer afternoons, there are new produce characters coming into season:  one being the succulent juicy fig.    Fresh figs are a tough find in many parts of the country and when found “fresh”, they often have spent far too long on a truck being transported from California to even remotely resemble the true flavor of a fig.   For those who live in Northern California, however, figs are in abundance.   Trees naturally inhabit the hills outside of Sonoma and if you look closely as you drive throughout wine country, you can see them hanging for picking or for sale on the corner of someone’s front lawn.   Even walking the dog through Napa, it is not hard to find figs as trees are often planted in cartilage areas and for those unaware, in California the law is that if fruit from someone’s tree is hanging over their property line, it is yours for picking.   Common sense and a spirit of neighborliness would recommend asking first, however.

The flavor of a fresh fig is unparalleled.    It is rich, with an almost meaty consistency and sweet without seeming sugary.   Slightly firm when picked fresh from a tree, the fig is a wonderful autumnal addition to various California cooking recipes.  If nothing else, the fig can make autumn’s arrival celebrated.  Figs can be used in a variety of culinary dishes from appetizers, salads, main courses to desserts.   Given that I do not feature enough desserts on the web site, I thought it timely to feature a simple use of the favored seasonal fig.  And what better to feature with figs than a Port.

Earlier this year, in the dregs of winter, I featured a Petite Sirah Port from another winery and belabored through all of the technical details surrounding port’s various categories, styles and types (please see, “Perfectly Pleasing Port”).   In Napa Valley, most Ports are fortified with brandy and this week’s featured Port deliciously falls into this category.

Elyse Winery (“Elyse”), located in Yountville, presently offers a delicious 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon based Port which is fortified with brandy.   The winery has established a long-standing relationship with a revered brandy provider (Germain-Robin Alambic) for the making of its Ports and perhaps it is being on the cutting edge of quality that makes their dessert wine so frankly delicious.   On the other hand, in this particular featured port, the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are also quite special as they hail from the renowned Pritchard Hill in Napa Valley.   Pritchard Hill (while not its own formally designated American Viticultrual Area) is famous for being the home of outstanding, award-winning Cabernet Sauvignon grapes.  To find grapes from Melanson Vineyard nurtured into a Port with high quality Zinfandel/Viognier brandy is a treat that will delight the senses.

Dark and velvety in its appearance in the glass, the palate is not overwhelmed by sugar or the brandy upon tasting.   Instead, the palate is greeted by delicious baked blueberries with a hint of raspberry to invoke thoughts of fresh warm dark berry pie with a lovely slight flavor of whiskey, vanilla and nuances of dark chocolate.

To pair up a seasonal dessert and take in the qualities of Elyse’s 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Port, I elected to whip up:

·         Baked Mission Figs in Port Reduction Syrup with Buttered Roasted Pecans, Crumbled Gorgonzola and Raspberry Honey

The terrific aspect of this dessert is that it is relatively low maintenance to make in the kitchen and yet the flavor components involved combine to form sophisticated layers of flavor and embody a true California wine country autumnal dessert.

For those learning about Port, blue cheese pairs inherently well with these fortified dessert wines.   While blue cheese is somewhat of an acquired taste for many, its easy-going cousin is gorgonzola.   By incorporating gorgonzola into the dish, the same creamy and tangy elements of blue cheese are captured but at a less intense degree.  Gorgonzola in this case is the soft soul mate to the delicious rich Pritchard Hill fruit found in Elyse’s 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Port.

The substantive nature of the fig holds up well with the Port and is further tied in by tossing the halves in a Port Reduction Syrup that was made on the stove top earlier.   Sacrificing a bit of Elyse’s Port to create the syrup, it directly ties the wine’s flavors to the fig and simultaneously sweetens the fruit slightly.   The buttered roasted pecan pieces are delicious with the whiskey and vanilla notes in the port and bring forth greater aromas from the effects of French oak barreling in the wine.  The raspberry honey is just an additional sweet glaze garnish that again brings forth the raspberry notes in the port itself. 

In the end, this is a terrific simple dessert to prepare for back deck gatherings on autumnal evenings as a cool breeze dances through the air bringing together seasonal fruit and a red dessert wine best enjoyed as outdoor temperatures start to fall.

*For those looking for an even simpler casual dessert, search back on the Facebook Fan Page to see “Not Your Mother’s S’mores”.   French Chocolate Truffles are a natural indulgence with this Port.

For those who do not have the benefit of living in Napa Valley, it is often a mystery why it is that one year a wine can be outstanding from a vintner and the next year it can be drastically different.   Provided that the fruit is selected from the same vineyard and the vinification process remains the same, what is it that causes the wine to have a seemingly “split personality” some years?  

The answer is relatively straight-forward in that it is Mother Nature whose nurturing hand has affected the grapes so drastically.   2006 in Napa Valley was a wacky weather year in that from January until mid-May the valley was plagued by seemingly never-ending heavy rainstorms.  Thinking back a week or two prior to New Year’s Day 2006, Napa itself flooded from terrible storms.   For northern California, rain means cool temperatures.   While typically bud break would happen in the spring, it happened later that year for most vineyards and the grapes began slowly growing.   With cooler temperatures, it also meant that the grapes’ skins remained thinner and with so much water that year, the fruit flavors were not going to be as tightly concentrated but instead more juicy in nature.   

But does this mean that 2006 grapes were a proverbial wash in Napa Valley?

Not by a long shot.   Depending on the varietal, grapes are harvested at varying times throughout the fall.   The earlier harvested red wine grapes tend to have a soft fruit flavor leading me to describe several 2006 red wines often as the “polite cousin” to the “vivacious and outgoing” vintages from 2005.   Grapes which were harvested later, however, such as Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, tend to be voluptuous and delicious with rich fruit.    While not the bowl-you-over-powerhouses of the prior 2005 vintages, the trade off is that they are far more accessible and enjoyable now and require less bottle aging to be palatable to nearly every connoisseur.  

So why did later harvested grapes such as Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon managed to fair well in 2006 vinification?

In my opinion, it was again, due to Mother Nature.   Mother Nature seemingly was concerned about these varietals and tormented Napa Valley with two weeks of triple digit heat.   Not just 100 degree weather:  but try, 112 degrees in Oakville or 120 degrees on a Sonoma hillside.   This was scorching sweltering heat that was a danger to man and beast alike, yet those cabernet sauvignon grapes greedily grasped that heat and used it to push their development a little farther when harvested in October.

While many wineries are beginning to release their 2007 Cabernet Sauvignons, I elected this week to pull a 2006 vintage which shows off this phenomenon of 2006 fruit because there are still plenty of 2006 vintages out there for consumption and can be readily enjoyed.   Sequoia Grove Winery in Napa Valley is highly adept at turning out a variety of well-crafted Cabernet Sauvignons.   Their 2006 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is an outstanding example of how good that year was for Cabernet Sauvignon grapes and for giving a more intimate look at the actual grape without the palate getting lost in overpowering tannins, big spices and inaccessibly tart black fruit.   Instead the 2006 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is readily and delightfully enjoyable as it shows off predominantly black fruit of blackberries, currants and plum, yet the fruit is uncharacteristically softer while remaining complex.   Softer fruit in this case is not a detriment but instead is an elegant rounder compliment that the palate enjoys while being able to lift out flavors of chocolate, fennel and a sprinkling of cinnamon.   The tannins (which can be overwhelming when a year experiences near drought conditions) are instead well-balanced and finely grained which lend smoothness to the wine and are a direct result to having had so much rain in the valley earlier in 2006.  For those who are fans of grapes from the famed Rutherford Bench, the hospitality staff at the winery holds out that 60% of the grapes used in this Napa Valley Cabernet are from Rutherford.

The benefit of having a silkier Cabernet Sauvignon to enjoy is that it does not mandate the accompaniment of big fatty cuts of beef or fatty cheeses.   Red wine, long recognized for its healthy antioxidants, gets to truly show off when the tannins are finely grained (like in the 2006 Sequoia Grove Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon) because it pairs beautifully with vegetarian fare.   As a result, this week’s menu holds:

1)      Grilled Marinated Portobello Mushrooms;

2)     Herb Truffle Cauliflower Puree with Red Wine Reduction Sauce; and

3)     Fresh Spinach Salad with Red Wine Reduction Vinaigrette.

Creating a red wine reduction sauce with shallots, thyme, wine, butter, water and dash of vegetable stock takes patience and a careful eye, but once completed yields a savory sauce which can dress up any meal.

Portobello mushrooms are long recognized as being a thicker, “meatier” consistency which are quite filling and can substitute for the proverbial bit of steak that people long for on a plate.   Marinated in a combination of fresh thyme from the garden, garlic, extra-virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar creates a delicious, rich flavor with the headier flavors of the mushroom.   The earthy nature of the mushrooms pairs deliciously with the 2006 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon flushing out the spices and fennel notes in the wine.

To add the texture of mashed potatoes, a cauliflower puree is created but in a step away from the traditional purees presently found in the restaurants.   Truffle oil is a wonder addition to risottos and other fare.   Logic would follow that it would add depth and sophistication to a cauliflower puree.   It does and then some.   To make the dish even more over the top, cream and margarine are heated to be added to steamed cauliflower, recently clipped chives and fresh thyme from the garden.    Drizzled with the Red Wine Reduction Sauce and this is a vegetarian side dish that quickly transports the palate to heaven.   The benefit of this side dish with the wine is that it avoids potatoes.   Frequently the starch of potatoes does not fare well with Cabernet Sauvignon.   The benefit of the cauliflower puree is that it allows the wine to continue to stand on its own merits and at full enjoyability.

Finally a small simple salad is put together consisting of freshly picked spinach leaves tossed in Red Wine Reduction Vinaigrette.   Having reserved 2 tablespoons of the actual Red Wine Reduction Sauce, whisked them into red wine vinegar creating an easy, rich and flavorful vinaigrette.

Who says healthy cannot be savory?   It is a matter of how you combine flavors which determines if your dish is going to pack a punch on the palate.   This vegetarian meal serves satisfying and sophisticated in flavors such that it can artfully masquerade as meat and potatoes on the palate.  In the end it proves perfectly satisfying and a wonderful way to enjoy those softer, elegant 2006 Cabernet Sauvignons on an early warm September night.

With Labor Day under one’s belt, near-autumnal breezes whispering at the ear and fleeting warm afternoons at hand, there is no better time than to welcome back Cabernet Sauvignon to the table.   Summer months generally prove far too warm for me and my guests to appropriately appreciate the offerings that Cabernet Sauvignon sets forth in a wine glass.   While I am personally remiss to see summer go, I am enthusiastic to review the various bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon which have sat patiently in my wine collection.

Now five years post-release, I have lovingly pulled a bottle of Elyse Winery’s (“Elyse”) Tiejen Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon.   While the winery is sold out of the 2005 vintage, those who have it in their collection (or who are fortunate enough to track it down at a restaurant, a wine shop or in someone else’s wine cellar) are in for a treat as this wine has turned the corner in aging and is starting to strut its proverbial Cabernet stuff.   Consisting of 96% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Petit Verdot, the wine’s nose offers gorgeous rich aromas of anise, smoke, roasted black cherries, a breath of raspberry and a wisp of cinnamon.   The 2005 Tiejen Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is dark in color and the wine coasts forth to offer flavors of blueberry, plum, cassis, allspice and herbs.   Sophisticated tannins provide a notable structure without overly drying out the palate.  This wine ages spectacularly as I have also had the opportunity to enjoy the 2001 vintage.

For years I have listened to my father ruminate over memories of countless evenings on the back patio in Claremont sipping wine with my childhood best-friend’s father.   Our parents met while our mothers were pregnant, carrying my childhood friend and me.   While our mothers were not enjoying wine at this time, our fathers were and soon found that each had a wine companion for that last trimester.    As lore has it, our fathers would sit down on the patio with their Cabernet Sauvignon, some hard rolls and perhaps some cheese.   And that is it.   No big steak on the grill, no over-the-top red wine reduction sauce to drizzle over potatoes and no big involved meal to pair alongside.   I have heard this tale nearly every time I share a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon with my dad or take him wine tasting.   Perhaps it is the dreamy far-off look that my dad gets in his eye that piqued my interest and inspired this week’s food pairing.   Some may skeptically say that look in his eye may just be the wine talking; instead I know, as a Cabernet Sauvignon enthusiast myself, that my dad is fondly remembering just how good this varietal can be on its own.

Knowing that I cannot possibly entertain you with a few baked crusty rolls and a slab of cheese, I decided instead to go the vegetarian route and come up with an appetizer which most would not readily think to pair:

·         Kristin’s Tricked-Out Caramelized Onion Dip Served with Grilled Potato Slices atop Fresh Spinach

Before my Cabernet Purists gasp in horror and shock, extend a little faith and remember that Cabernet Sauvignon does not have to always be paired with a glorious meal full of fanfare.   Often, yes, it is best enjoyed that way, but depending on the AVA, the actual vineyard, the vintage and the vintner’s style, good Cabernet Sauvignon can be enjoyed with far simpler fare.   In addition, depending on the fare served, such pairing may also allow the wine to truly stand on its own merits in all of its glory.

The Tiejen Vineyard, for example, sits on the famed Rutherford Bench in Napa Valley.   Its soils are gravelly and its location on Niebaum Lane provides a unique microclimate to produce grapes characterized by mass and intensity.   When produced by Ray Coursen in a wine, these Cabernet grapes reflect balance in the glass and the fruit-forward flavors of the wine can be enjoyed as simply or sophisticatedly as one should desire.

Choosing to take the path of simple enjoyment, I chose to create an onion dip that would showcase the merits of this Cabernet Sauvignon specifically.   This is not to say that the recipe for my Tricked-Out Caramelized Onion Dip lacks culinary depth or involvement.  On the contrary, this recipe was carefully thought out and in the end, I elected to follow the advice that a certain highly regarded Napa Valley chef has been known to say, “Sweat the details.”

For anyone who has had caramelized onions, they will know what I am talking about.  To truly reap the benefits of the succulently sweet caramelized onion, it takes time and patience at the stove top.   To further diversify my recipe, I used a total of four (4) different onions:  vidalia, shallot, spring and chive (the latter not caramelized).   All four are from my garden this year which sends flavor roaring to the forefront in this dip.   Caramelized at various stages with finely minced garlic and fresh thyme (also from the garden), the flavors are sweet, herbaceous and rich.

Once caramelized, the onions are folded into an already whisked combination of light sour cream and young chèvre, chives, pepper, sea salt and topped accordingly.   To serve, the dip is placed upon big luscious fresh leaves of spinach and surrounded by… low and behold, thin slices of red potato coated in light olive oil and sea salt which were being grilled at the same time out on the deck.

But how is it that a creamy dip can go with Cabernet Sauvignon?    The chèvre cuts the tannins:  pure and simple.   The chèvre basically has the ability to wipe away the tannins without dismantling the wine’s structure.   The result is that you are able to enjoy all of the pronounced fruit and spice flavors in the wine.   The caramelized onions add a sophisticated sweet flavor which in turn makes the wine offer flavors of roasted bing cherry compote.   There is really only one word for this:  delicious.    Whether it is the wine or the dip or both taken together, the simple reaction is pure satisfaction and mumbled mouthfuls of “delicious” are heard.   To create the ultimate bite, a bit of fresh spinach is torn off to be placed atop the dip and potato slice creating an exciting flavor combination that pops and explodes in the mouth.

Sitting back on the deck on a September evening with that cool near-autumnal breeze blowing, the warm late rays of sun on one’s face and a glass of Elyse’s Tiejen Cabernet Sauvignon in hand give a new meaning to lingering and doing so in the most lovingly of wine pairing ways.