Of course the answer to the title of this week’s article is “yes”.   Your eyes did not deceive you.   Italy, despite its prowess with all things Sangiovese and Super-Tuscan, does grow grapes specifically to produce Burgundy style red wines.  Before you race to your corner wine shop ready to stump the local clerk or armed with the hope to purchase one of these Italian gems, take into consideration that these types of grapes are not widely grown and similarly are limited as to where they can be grown.   Italy’s soil and climate largely are not conducive to many grapes that fare well in the Burgundy region of France or other cooler climates.   However, if you find yourself near Alto Adige (or specific micro-climates), the opportunity waits to sample some Pinot Nero.    That’s right:  “Pinot Nero” which is Italy’s style of “Pinot Noir”.

Pinot Nero is largely grown in the above-referenced Alto Adige region of Italy.   Grown there it is capable of producing similar delicate nuances known to the Burgundy style of Pinot Noir but perhaps with slightly brighter red fruit on the palate.   In California, the likelihood of finding an Italian style Pinot Nero seems unlikely:   unless you visit Benessere Vineyards (“Benessere”) in Napa Valley.   As often featured on this site, Benessere is well known for producing an array of wonderfully crafted Tuscan wines.  Much to my surprise a few years ago, a “Pinot Nero” arrived on my doorstep.   At the time I was mildly annoyed as so many wineries were desperately clinging to the popularity of the movie “Sideways” and seemingly “everyone” has a Pinot Noir.   But no, upon further research, Benessere did not fail me and instead continued to expand my knowledge of Italian style wines made in Napa Valley.

November is one of my favorite times to feature Pinot Noir (or in this week’s case, “Pinot Nero”).   Light on tannins yet graced by pleasant acidity, Pinot Noir is a wine that seemingly shows off its best attributes on those increasingly chilly or rainy evenings in November.   Looking at Benessere’s 2005 Pinot Noir (“Pinot Nero”) in the glass, its coloring is dominated by sparkling ruby jewel tones.   If the glass is taken indoors under soft dining light, the wine will literally reflect and sparkle off the diner’s shirt (making it a wonderfully festive wine for the holidays).   Since this vintage is a 2005, bottle aging has added visual dynamics to the wine in that the coloring shows layers of varying density and thinning at the upper edges.   This winemaker’s Pinot Nero will age an additional four to seven years post-release:   in this case, this vintage was released in 2007 and it is now nearly four years later making it an ideal time for consumption.

The bouquet, despite additional bottle aging, delivers festive aromas of cherries and raspberries, anise, pepper and a mild herbaceous note (which Pinot Noir wines are typically recognized for).   In the mouth, the wine demonstrates that “slow and steady” aging does win the race with this Pinot Nero as the front palate is delighted by juicy fresh cherries and raspberries.   Texturally, due to aging, the wine is light and flirtatious.  Mid-palate the juiciness of berries increases but met with a smoothing slight vanilla flavor, which is intensified as it nears finish with a sprinkle of pepper and a lingering flavor of red berries.   Fortuitous for Benessere, the grower of these grapes in the Carneros American Viticultural Area in Napa Valley produces small grapes which are known for intense flavors.   This melds well into a Pinot Noir which is designed for bottle aging beyond immediate consumption upon winery release.

While November is a favorite time to feature Pinot Noir wines, it is also a favorite time to impress guests with mushroom-based recipes.    In November, mushrooms come into season in the Bay Area as the region is greeted with the return of rainfall.   This is a time when mushrooms are often at their most flavorful and a number of combinations are available at many local grocers.   Knowing that mushrooms pair perfectly with Pinot Noir, this week’s menu hosts:

·        Kristin’s Tuscan Mushroom Bread Pudding

Other times of the year, the notion of a bread pudding is too heavy to envision eating (in my opinion).   But as the weather gets a bit cooler and the days grow shorter, bread puddings with red wine grow more attractive.    In this recipe, I have elected to use both Portobello and Cremini mushrooms (which are lightly sautéed in some left-over dry white wine).   Instead of using a French loaf, keeping in style with an Italian Pinot Nero, I selected a fresh Italian loaf from a local bakery.    Herbs are still thriving in the garden, so I decided to use two different types of thyme (to create depth), marjoram, parsley and a sprinkle of oregano.    Grating some Tuscan cheese and fresh Parmesan, the core ingredients were organized to create a very Tuscan flavored Mushroom Bread Pudding.

Pulling this Tuscan Mushroom Bread Pudding from the oven not only impressed guests but had filled the kitchen with wonderful rustic country aromas.   This Italian flare continued in the flavors of the bread pudding to match up festively with Benessere’s Pinot Nero.

The result was a light meal that satisfied in an unexpected savory way.    The Pinot Nero paired perfectly as the earthy flavors of the mushrooms accented the mild herbaceous notes of the wine.  The red berries in the wine embrace the herbs and the cheese in the bread pudding and for a moment it would not be difficult to envision one’s self happily tucked away in a warm cozy Tuscan kitchen.

Whether it is a casual meal for a week night or an additional offering for the upcoming Thanksgiving holiday for the vegetarian-minded, my Tuscan Mushroom Bread Pudding is a natural companion to Benessere’s festive Pinot Nero.

In the world of wine, as most know, there is no legal definition for “proprietary red”.   Largely ambiguous when used in relation to a wine, the word “proprietary” infers a sense of exclusive right by the winery to the goodness that waits in that bottle and generally reflects a unique craftsmanship that a winery is seeking to hold out to the public.   Whether that proprietary wine is actually good or not, that is left to the whim of the individual palate to determine.

Recently a family member celebrated a birthday and as part of the festivities, I elected to plan a menu for said dinner.   Needing to include some element of sheer birthday-merited surprise, I was determined to select a wine that was unique yet had not been experienced by my brother.  Not an easy task since his palate has often tagged along on my winery visits in Napa Valley as I selected wines to feature on the web site; thus, my selection had to be discrete, if not furtive.   Mulling through my wine collection armed with careful consideration, I decided that it was time to introduce him to a Proprietary Red vintage that stood out exceptionally in a particular year.

2005 was a year that gifted Napa Valley with large amounts of fruit.   Dry hot summers followed a winter that had been light on rain and red grapes were plentiful in the valley by harvest.  At first blush one would think that heavy grape production would benefit the wine industry, however, unless a grower “drops fruit” (meaning prematurely picking clusters of grapes), the flavors in the grapes on the wine will not be as concentrated.   Some may view this as sacrilege, but by prematurely picking clusters of grapes, the remaining grapes are able to develop greater flavors and characteristics.  In certain seasons “dropping fruit” thus becomes necessary if a grower is to maintain consistency in the quality of the grapes that he or she grows and to contribute to award winning wines for which Napa Valley is known.

When thinking about Cabernet Sauvignon, for example, the concept of “dropping fruit” makes perfect sense.   Cabernet Sauvignon as a wine is known in Napa Valley for big, often intense, flavors and structure.   “Dropping fruit” during the growing season will allow the fruit that is still on the vine to develop bigger and bolder concentrated flavors.   Alpha Omega Winery (“Alpha Omega”) in Napa Valley recognized this importance and through its contracted growers, ensured that the fruit that it selected for its 2005 Proprietary Red would maintain unique concentrated characteristics.

Despite being “proprietary”, Alpha Omega does share with its patrons that in 2005, its Proprietary Red consisted of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon and 31% Merlot.   Carefully selecting vineyards in Yountville, Spring Mountain, Rutherford Bench and Oakville, Alpha Omega sought to create a proprietary blended red wine which would impress the palate with a complex structure yet be accompanied by a unique round softness in the mouth.  For the geography enthusiasts who readily understand the diversity of the American Viticultural Areas’s (“AVA’s”) and the mountain areas included in this wine’s grape selection, it is not a surprise when tasting the 2005 Proprietary Red that the structure and feel of the wine was well accomplished.

Pouring the wine into the glass, the coloring is dark almost as night yet its rim is accented by subtle warm hues of crimson.   Despite the inky appearance of the wine, the bouquet entrances the nose with gorgeous deep notes of black cherries, roasted fennel, white pepper, red raspberry, mocha dust which are kissed by toasty oak, milk chocolate and clove.   Tasting the wine, the 31% Merlot works its magic bringing deliciously smooth, round velvety sensations with flavors of blackberry, licorice and dark chocolate along with perhaps the best palate character of a Bordeaux-style blend, black currant.

Given the wine’s terrific structure of acids, oak, dry finish and notable artisan tannins, a unique dinner menu was planned:

1)      Vidalia Onions Braised in Red Wine Reduction Sauce;

2)     White Cheddar Mashed Potatoes; and

3)     Braised Top Sirloin Tips and Cremini Mushrooms.

Vidalia Onions, long recognized for a unique sweet flavor, become decadent guests on any dinner menu when roasted in the oven.   To add a gourmet element, a red wine reduction sauce was created including thyme freshly picked from the garden, cloves, sugar to sweeten and fresh lemon to brighten.

Biting into these succulent warm delights is an explosion of warm late autumnal spiced, roasted sweet onion.   After having sat in the oven, the red wine reduction sauce converted itself into a delicious sweet caramelized glaze.   When paired with the wine, tasty notes of baked blackberry and thyme tumble across the palate.   Rarely is a Cabernet Sauvignon blend wine outstanding with just a side dish, but when accompanying a roasted Vidalia Onion Braised in Red Wine Reduction Sauce, Alpha Omega’s 2005 Proprietary Red meets its culinary soul mate and simply shines.

When creating menus for Cabernet Sauvignon based red wines, I am normally not a fan of pairing potatoes.   Reason being, the potato’s sugar content can distort the wine’s true identity.   However, add white cheddar cheese, cream and sour cream to those mashed potatoes and it is a different story.   Cheddar brings a certain fat content that wrestles any tannin to the sideline and similarly balances the sugar content of the potato itself.   My recipe for White Cheddar Mashed Potatoes is outstandingly creamy and deliciously rich such that it pairs decadently and seamlessly with Alpha Omega’s 2005 Proprietary Red.   Each bite is simply heavenly and the white cheddar in the recipe adds a much needed depth to otherwise boring mashed potatoes.

Atop the White Cheddar Mashed Potatoes, my brother found Braised Top Sirloin Tips and Mushrooms.   At first blush, the beef sounds like a simple straight-forward pairing but knowing in advance the characteristics of the wine, I took advantage of creating a proprietary red wine braise which included (among other things) baking spices, garden fresh thyme and a cinnamon stick.   This medley of seasonings for the steak paired perfectly with the wine and similarly would pair well with most Bordeaux blend red wines.

In the end, it was a birthday meal well-served.   And for that little bit of wine in the glass that was left at the end of the meal, it sided up brilliantly to the chocolate birthday cake (not featured) that adorned the table.   Despite the silence which fell upon the guests at the table who hungrily savored each layer of flavor, my brother kept saying “damn tasty” and I thought, “delightfully decadent.”

As the sun’s late October golden afternoon rays catch the warm autumnal hues that paint surrounding vineyards, it is easy to get lost in Napa Valley’s immediate surrounding beauty and even catch your cheeks with a seasonally fitting crimson blush.   Napa Valley is romantic in many respects but spending fall here will bring out the budding impressionist in many.   There are aromas of grapes being crushed from harvest to make wine as must lingers enchantingly in the air.   Thumbs are often stained a certain shade of plum hinting at the evidence of true craftsmanship left at a winery not far away.   It is a busy time in Napa Valley as vintners hurry in preparation to stow away the fruits of harvest for barrel and bottle aging over winter.

Perhaps fitting for fall, is a red grape varietal that can be equally romantic as wine country, yet is often overlooked, Cabernet Franc.   Most readily are aware that Cabernet Franc is a red wine grape that is often blended into Cabernet Sauvignon.   Countless times I have met individuals who just prefer Cabernet Sauvignon (which can be understandable) but there is often a notable lack of understanding about the Cabernet Franc grape itself. 

Cabernet Franc, one of the Bordeaux grapes mentioned in last week’s article, is actually of very similar structure and flavor to Cabernet Sauvignon.   It merely is not as full-bodied as the Cabernet Sauvignon grape itself.   The wine as a single varietal sets itself apart for being readily accessible; a well grown Cabernet Franc grape is lower in acidity and tannins.  Couple in the fact that Cabernet Franc when grown in an idyllic cooler climate will have tremendous aromatic and herbaceous qualities, it begins to become understandable that this grape may do more heavy lifting in that Cabernet Sauvignon wine than most are ready to admit.   In fact, in a year where Cabernet Sauvignon may not be up to its full potential, Cabernet Franc is relied upon in greater percentages to help maintain the quality of the Cabernet Sauvignon wine that a person has grown attached to vintage after vintage.   In sum, Cabernet Franc has had its moments to actually save the day in the world of winemaking. 

Looking at Cabernet Franc as a single varietal bottled wine, aside from smooth finely ground tannins and lower acidity, the main characteristic to seek is the aromatic and herbaceous nature of this particular grape.   The increased aromatics will come from being grown in the right climate.   Taking this into account, it is with great pleasure to share this week a Cabernet Franc that far surpasses this above test and boasts estate-grown grapes from a family owned winery in Napa Valley:   Casa Nuestra Winery’s 2006 Cabernet Franc.

Casa Nuestra Winery (“Casa Nuestra”) has been featured this past summer with some terrific seasonal wines but does not disappoint the wine connoisseur as the palate shifts to desire red wines in the fall and winter.   As previously mentioned Casa Nuestra grows its own Cabernet Franc (making the grapes estate-grown) and has been confidently offering it as a single varietal since the 1980’s.   Part of the confidence in bottling their Cabernet Franc as a stand-alone varietal must reside in Gene Kirkham’s knowledge that his grapes have “got it right”.   Opening the bottle, before the wine even dares to meet the glass, aromas escape like a genie from a bottle to hint at mint, ripe berries and spices.   Pouring the wine into the glass, it is easy on the eyes as it offers beautiful plum colors with soft rose petal edges drawing the imagination to images of refined luxury.   The wine’s bouquet does not disappoint the nose as it enchants with a lovely perfume of ripe mountain berries, a trace of garden-grown mint, alluring baking spices and a romantic twist of clove.   On the palate, there is one word to describe Casa Nuestra’s 2006 Cabernet Franc and that is “delicious.”   Sensual warm spices race forward to greet the front of the palate.   At mid-palate, a delicious blend of dark and red berries wash onward while a notable beautiful hint of eucalyptus and rose petal aromas waft upwards.   The wine coasts into the sunset with a soft finish of bing cherry almond compote.   Each swallow perks the attention, as the palate enjoys the wine readily while savoring and finishing with the inclination to cozy up to this Cabernet Franc and get to know it just a little bit better.

Casa Nuestra’s 2006 Cabernet Franc is indeed outstanding for a single varietal wine and if my own reaction was not enough, I carefully watched my guest’s reaction which included blushing crimson cheeks as he realized the magnitude of gem that had been poured into his glass.

Coming back to reality, to pair a wine such as Cabernet Franc successfully with food, certain elements need to be taken into consideration:   it has a lower acidity, it is not as full-bodied as a Cabernet Sauvignon, its tannins are less and it has a magnificent bouquet that cannot be lost in the dish.   Under such consideration, this week’s menu hosts:

·         B(no L)T-Burrata

As a forewarning, this appetizer is not for vegans (nor vegetarians), but let the rest of the foodies rejoice because this recipe scandalously introduces bacon to burrata and creates a texturally, flavorful decadent crostini.

Burrata is heaven for anyone who is a fan of fresh mozzarella.   The cheese itself is made from a combination of fresh mozzarella and cream.   While being made, the cheese is made into a pouch and filled with mozzarella scraps and fresh cream (“panna”) before it is closed and stored in liquid.   The cheese, Burrata, spoils quickly as the outer shell is meant to be thinner in order to convey the delicate consistency.   Because of the short shelf-life, while Burrata originated in Italy in the 1920’s, it was largely unknown to American cuisine until somewhat recently as it could not be shipped.   Now in the last decade or so, some purveyors of Italian cheese are releasing a Burrata, but if it is not made relatively locally, it will not be as delicate a version as the cheese is meant to be.   Nevertheless, some of these distributed varieties are still enjoyable and the essence of Burrata’s rich buttery, sweet yet milky flavor is present.

But how can a semi-creamy cheese pair with a red wine?

Burrata, due to its fat content, can be paired with a red wine provided that the selection is made with care.  The alcohol content of the red wine selected cannot be high and since Casa Nuestra’s 2006 Cabernet Franc is only 13.7%, it will pair well.  Recalling that Cabernet Franc has less tannins and acidity, it also will not overwhelm the consistency and flavor of the cheese and can pair harmoniously alongside.   Including Apple Smoked Bacon with the cheese adds a clearly delicious smoky component yet a flavor that intuitively pairs well with Cabernet Franc as it masquerades with a similar flavor to Cabernet Sauvignon.   

While the grape’s acidity is less, it can still be paired with dishes hosting tomatoes provided that the tomatoes are included with care.  To instead highlight and accentuate the herbaceous notes of the Cabernet Franc, a combination of highly aromatic marjoram and thyme from the garden are used to season the freshly picked Carmelo tomatoes (also from the garden) prior to gently sautéing.

These ingredients are carefully stacked upon grilled slices of a locally baked French baguette and drizzled with a Balsamic Reduction Sauce and adorned with chopped chives from my garden.

Bacon pairs so well with this Cabernet Franc.   There are no gamey aspects to the Cabernet Franc, but its berry-oriented flavors naturally pair with the Apple Smoked Bacon.   As initially odd as it may sound, bacon fat flavors are just delicious with this wine as it makes its berry and cherry finish robust and heady rendering the combination intoxicatingly seductive.

As mentioned above, Carmelo tomatoes are grown purposefully in my garden as they are known for a uniquely sweet flavor which effortlessly creates an oozy comfort food sensation in any dish where they are found.   The trick to enamoring the palates of your guests, however, is the spices that are used.    Opening a wine such as Casa Nuestra’s 2006 Cabernet Franc gives the chef a clear sensory palette with which to work.   Marjoram in my garden is highly perfumed and makes me weak in the knees each time that I smell it.  Include a herb like this in a dish and your guests will fall in love, yet just like new budding love not quite be able to put their finger on what it is that has captured their affection.   When using fresh herbs from the garden in a dish when paired with this 2006 Cabernet Franc, it unleashes the true aphrodisiacal nature of this varietal.

A wine as aromatically inviting as Casa Nuestra’s 2006 Cabernet Franc, which sumptuously pairs so well with an appetizer as comfortingly savory as this one, will make any guest who you entertain wish that indeed this was “our house”.

With autumn in full swing, colorful leaves begin to adorn grape vines in Napa Valley and in the rest of the country paint the treetops of skylines to only fall poetically to the ground.   Autumn’s palette fills with orange, yellow, burgundy red, crimson red and brown to create warm hues on leaves previously kissed by summer sun.   Kitchens begin to fill with a medley of warm smells ranging from apples, spices, squash to root vegetables.   The oven is heated and cooking begins its seasonal transfer from the grill.

As a medley of colors, aromas and flavors characterize autumn, it is only fitting that this week’s featured wine be of similar vein.   The term “Bordeaux Blend” is used to define a wine that consists of two or more grape varietals with origins from the Bordeaux region of France.  Most commonly in Napa Valley, a Bordeaux Blend is a red wine; however, Bordeaux Blends can also exist as a white wine.   If the Bordeaux Blend consists of white grape varieties it will contain Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle and/or Sémillon.   If the Bordeaux Blend is a red wine, it will consist of some combination of two or more of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Gros Verdot, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot and/or St. Macaire varietals.   If these blends meet certain requirements, in the United States they will be further classified as a “Meritage” (for the rules associated therewith, please reference past article titled, “The Merits of Meritage”).

Girard Winery, whose tasting room is located in Yountville, annually crafts a red Bordeaux Blend fittingly titled, “Artistry”.   Artistry is Girard Winery’s (“Girard”) proprietary red wine which varies slightly in grape constitution each year in order to reflect consistency in quality.    Anyone who is familiar with this wine will readily attest that upon tasting prior and future vintages that Girard has been successful in establishing consistency in quality, texture and flavor year after year.   While Girard has recently released its 2008 Artistry vintage, I have elected this week to feature the 2006 vintage which has benefited from four years of bottle aging and was highly rated upon its release by The Wine Spectator and The Wine Enthusiast (each awarding the 2006 Artistry with 92 points).   The 2006 Artistry has been previously hailed as the winery’s perhaps best ever vintage despite the fact that the wine consistently ranges from “very good” to “excellent”.  

But what is in the 2006 Artistry?

Consistently, each year the Artistry wine is a Bordeaux Blend of red grapes.   The varietals and percentages may vary from year to year, but it is very important to remember that the consistency of quality and style will remain the same.   For the making of the 2006 Artistry, Girard included:  59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, 13% Petit Verdot, 8% Malbec and 7% Merlot.    All fruit hails from Napa Valley, specifically from Oakville, Yountville and St. Helena (using both valley floor and hillside vineyards).  Girard takes such care with this proprietary blend that it hand sorts its fruit and subjects the fruit to an extended maceration to ensure that the tannins are refined before tucking it away to age for 22 months in French Oak.   When the wine emerges for release, it is readily accessible and approachable to most palates, but when it is set aside for additional years of bottle aging the consumer must be prepared for a seductive treat as complex layers reveal themselves.

Pouring the 2006 Artistry into the glass, it still reflects a gorgeous dark ruby wine which will pick up dining lights and reflect that ruby color onto a dark placemat.   The bouquet intrigues the nose with deliciously entertaining nuances of anise, raspberry, plum, pipe tobacco, cigar box and a soft note of vanilla lending to images of sugar cookies.   Knowing that the bouquet provides all of the necessary teasers for a beautifully crafted Bordeaux Blend, the palate is readily prepared for delicious, voluptuous round flavors of black plum, blackberry, currants, clove spice, white pepper, roasted black cherry and further savors a finish of soft vanilla cherry and cocoa that lingers elegantly on the palate.

Lingering with a glass of this beautiful artfully crafted wine, it is apparent why this blend is perhaps fittingly suited to autumnal cuisine as its flavors are soft, yet complex and can pair well with a variety of spices, herbs, lingering vegetables in the garden and beef.   Taking this into account (and given that it is a red Bordeaux Blend), it was only appropriate that this week’s menu include:

·         Kristin’s Family Beef Burgundy Recipe Served With Crusty Baked French Bread

Typically, I am not a fan of pot roasts or casseroles or heavy meat-oriented fare.   However, Beef Burgundy can be made elegantly depending on the technique involved and the patience used to time the addition of ingredients to create complex layers of flavors.   In my family, there is a recipe which my father has passed down to me which has time and time again been tested and impressed even my father’s cousin who at one time was the executive responsible for determining all restaurants and cuisine for Disney.   Reviewing my father’s recipe, I could see opportunity to improve certain aspects to knock the socks off my invited dining crowd.    Without disclosing the actual recipe, I will give a few hints as some of its contents to demonstrate why this is not the average Beef Burgundy. 

Like most Beef Burgundy’s, wine is used to cook our carefully tenderized and cut chunks of sirloin tip roast.   Most people think that any red wine will do but as prior articles have shown, the wine used generally ties the meal closely to the wine paired.   In this case, there is no way that I am going to sacrifice any of the 2006 Artistry to the dish, but for a few dollars, I can find at the wine shop an inexpensive bottle of wine that has similar characteristics (or a few key flavors) to nurture the dish.   With one of Mondavi’s wines in hand for cooking, the beef is also gently seared first in the remainder drippings of cooked applewood bacon.   Again, stepping away from traditional bacon and seeking that additional bit of flavor, the applewood smoked bacon adds another layer of flavor.   Seasoned with garden picked thyme (which infuses flavor ten times better than dried), crushed garlic, and cloves, the dish is braised for hours in the oven, while at various stages cippolini onions, mushrooms, peas and carrots pulled from the garden are added.   Using fresh ingredients is always preferable and when they can come from your own backyard, they truly do not get any fresher.

Braised in the oven, the dish creates a rich thick gravy which is meant to be sopped up by a baked crusty French Bread.

Sweet peas dance with clove spices, while thyme and roasted cippolini onions add depth.   Carrots grown in one’s own garden will lend a unique sweetness to any dish that cannot be mirrored by produce found at the local store.  

While in appearance it is dark, this hearty meal is actually brightened by Girard’s Bordeaux Blend, the 2006 Artistry.   The cherry notes found in the wine readily embrace the sweetness contributed by the roasted carrots, cippolini onions and peas.   The earthiness that is exuded by the mushrooms enhances the wine’s intoxicatingly masculine aromas of pipe tobacco and cigar box.

Warm contentment soothes the palate and stomach as autumn evenings grow colder and early winter rainstorms coast into Napa Valley.   It is a meal such as this, when paired with an artfully crafted Bordeaux Blend, which causes a guest to sit inside without remorse and happily listen to autumn night winds.   Cue up a toasty roaring fire as the last of Girard’s 2006 Artistry swirls in your glass and the picture is complete.

October is a month that typically involves lingering.   Knowing that the holidays loom ahead (and that those months are characterized by hustling, bustling, preparation, planning and more preparation) is enough incentive to take one’s time coasting through October.   Harvest activities are still on-going this year at most wineries due to the unseasonably chilly summer that Napa Valley experienced this year.  With the smell of crushed and fermenting grapes lingering in the air and warm autumnal afternoon sun on one’s shoulders, it is a time to be savored.

Often I am questioned by visitors to wine country about where to find “good Tempranillo”.  Tempranillo, a black grape with origins in Northern Spain, is not widely grown in California.   The look on each inquirer’s face is a similar repeated expression of disbelief and generally his or her eyes wander hungrily towards the vast rows of vines that make up much of the visible landscape of Napa Valley.  Tempranillo grape, which is used to make luscious deep colored red wines known for lower acidity and alcohol, best grows in cooler climates (as opposed to the hot dry climate of California) and is best known for success in the Rioja DOCa of Spain.   Nevertheless, a few wineries in Napa Valley do make a Tempranillo wine, but it is only when it emerges of the quality that the grape is best known for (despite regional challenges of Napa Valley’s geographic location) that the wine should be marketed and made available for purchase.

Goosecross Cellars, located in Yountville, from time to time makes a Tempranillo that is worthy of the caliber of the grape’s Spanish origins.   Two years ago, the winery released a 2006 Tempranillo which I obtained a few bottles of and despite the youth that the wine displayed in the glass, I elected to simply cellar my wine for additional bottle aging.   This year, the winery has recently returned with a 2008 Tempranillo vintage for purchase and timely enough, I am ready to pull a bottle of the 2006 vintage for this week’s article.

Pouring the wine into the glass, you note that the wine is intensely colored with ruby hues and purple tones.   While Tempranillo is typically recognized for its intense, rich coloring, if the grape is grown in a warmer climate (such as California’s) the grape will have a thicker skin and intensifies the coloring of the wine.   The varietal can be enjoyed young due to its manageable acidity, but its quality immensely improves from aging (whether in the barrel or bottle).   The Goosecross’ 2006 Tempranillo lends a mildly gamey and earthy smell to the bouquet of the wine, but these rustic aromas are quickly followed with warm notes of cedar, fresh tobacco and red currant.    Taking a sip, the wine explodes onto the palate with spice, pepper, red plum, roasted fennel, currant and an exceedingly silky smooth texture which brings an element of debonair to this otherwise rustic medium-bodied red wine.  This is a wine that can be relished on its own at this stage of aging or explored with a wide range of cuisine to accentuate certain attributes of the wine itself.

While it may seem cliché to plan a menu of Spanish-influenced Tapas for this week’s menu, after tasting the wine, it is abundantly apparent why this style of cuisine is innately destined for Tempranillo pairings.    With this in mind, this week’s menu holds:

1)      Marinated Cracked Olives;

2)     Mini Artichoke Risotto Manchego Cakes;

3)     Spiced Beef Empanadas; and

4)     Apple-Apricot Empanadas.

As many know, Tapas are the Spanish equivalent to appetizers and generally are intended to be small plates of savory morsels capable of being consumed without silverware.   This was kept in mind for each Tapa course such that the fork would be optional.   Prepared ahead of time in order to marinate, buttery green California olives meet thin slices of garden-grown red pepper, finely minced garlic, thyme harvested from the garden, red wine vinegar and olive oil.

Enjoying these with the 2006 Tempranillo show how the Marinated Cracked Olives offer a zesty flavor to help accentuate aromas and flavors of smoke and spice in the wine.

Artichoke, risotto, garlic, shallots and thyme from the garden encase chunks of manchego cheese to create little heavenly bites of sweet herbed flavors and tangy sheep’s milk cheese.   If the wine held any residual acidity, the manchego cuts through it such that the wine glides across the palate with even increased finesse showing off classy Old World notes.

Next up emerges the true star of the menu, the Spiced Beef Empanada.   Flakey puff pastry meets deliciously sweetened beef, California green olives, golden raisins, caramelized onions, garlic and Carmelo tomatoes from my garden.   If the mini risotto cakes were heaven, these Empanadas take the palate beyond.    Exquisitely ensconced in buttery flakey layers of puff pastry, sweet and spiced layers unfold to reveal subtle complexity.   A carefully determined balance of cumin, chili powder, oregano, cinnamon and garden fresh thyme truly envelop the beef to bring a coy aura of culinary mystique that firmly tames the gamey notes found in the wine.   The soft buttery notes of the California green olives, the sweet warmed flavors of the golden raisins and the extraordinary flavor of the Carmelo tomatoes combine with the spiced beef to render the recipient of one of these empanadas to chew slowly and enjoy each layer of flavor with a suitably appointed sip of Tempranillo.

Finally, to cleanse the palate, Apple-Apricot Empanadas emerge where baked fuji apple brushed with apricot preserves accompanies delicate slices of almond and baking spices.   Delightfully sweet, yet without an overload of granulated sugar, the Apple-Apricot Empanadas cleanse the palate while bringing forth giant aromas and flavors of anise in Goosecross’ 2006 Tempranillo.

While Goosecross is no longer selling the 2006 vintage of its Tempranillo, it is selling its 2008 vintage.   If you find yourself at the winery and looking to pick up a bottle, make sure to pick up extra bottles for cellaring and revisit this wine in two years or so.   You, your palate and your friends will thank you.