Petite Sirah is one of those red varietals that rarely do I reach for except for during the dregs of winter.  Notoriously rustic, complex, rich and often lumbering across the palate in a no-nonsense sort of way, Petite Sirah readily pairs with comfort food and is in ready reach on a dark, stormy night.   Yet, only days away from the last holiday weekend of summer, given this varietal’s diversity in food pairing, it can staunchly hold its ground alongside your grill.

When seeking a good Petite Sirah, one should immediately stop in Elyse Winery in Yountville.   Known for its aptitude in making Petite Sirah, Elyse Winery presently offers its Napa Valley 2007 Barrel Select Petite Sirah (the “2007 Barrel Select”).   As this gorgeous wine tumbles into the glass and its rich aromas waft upwards, there is no question that this is a no-nonsense Petite Sirah.   It captures your attention and shows no sign of releasing it any time soon.  The wine’s nose boldly shows off scents of blackberry, blueberry, cloves, espresso, cola, earth and violets.  On the palate, delicious deep flavors of strawberries, roasted plums, blueberries, blackberries, delicious spices and a slightly smoky flavor unfold.   The 2007 Barrel Select is full-bodied and having had the benefit of having it in my wine collection already for a couple of years, I have been able to taste it over the years and watch it mature into a serious wine with a serious presence.   Still available at the winery for purchase, should you pick this wine up, it will cellar for many years to come and Robert Parker Jr. at The Wine Advocate even dares to suggest that it will age for two decades or longer.

Knowing that this 2007 Barrel Select offers complexity and depth, it can hold up against fare off the backyard grill and diverse fare at that.   This week’s menu hosts:

• Grilled Polenta Chicken Stuffed Pasilla Chiles on a bed of Black Beans and Salsa Cruda

Many probably scratch their heads and question, “Mexican cuisine… with Petite Sirah?”   Simply, yes.   Given the rich spices in the wine and that it is solidly full-bodied, the 2007 Barrel Select will hold up with the diverse flavors and spices of traditional Mexican cuisine.   If you still doubt, look to past articles here to see another winery’s Petite Sirah hold up against Mole Poblano.

Pasilla chiles are a milder chile and presently they are gorgeous and in season at the local produce stands.   To give a respectful nod to the varietal’s rustic nature, creamy polenta is used to create a unique filling to stuff the chile pepper.   The polenta is mixed with lemon thyme, cilantro, sautéed white onion, garlic and Mexican Ranchero Queso.   Before the chile pepper is fully filled, shredded grilled chicken tossed in a tomatillo salsa.   Once filled, the tops are placed back on the chiles and they are ready to sit atop a hot charcoal grill.

Once roasted on the grill, these chiles are placed atop a bed of black beans and colorful salsa cruda to pair up with the 2007 Barrel Select.

Comforting flavors of the polenta, cheese, sweet tomatillo salsa and mild roasted pasilla chile naturally intertwine with the wine.   The smoky flavors that accompany the roasted pasilla chile off the grill accentuate the same and the spice component found in the wine.   Similarly the earthy notes of cloves, oak and earth spring forward in the 2007 Barrel Select when paired with the black beans.  

While a unique pairing, the pairing makes Petite Sirah feel like an intended guest at the backyard table near the grill.   And as the days grow shorter and that slight chill of the evening arrives, we know all too well that autumn is right around the corner.

*Before summer ends, learn about another great warm weather wine from Paso Robles, California, on my new tab The SLO Vine.   Posted now and a new article forthcoming the last Tuesday of each month, learn about more food pairings and wine from San Luis Obispo County, California.   Cheers!

Summer lovin’, we all knows that it happens so fast.  Whether it is a summer vacation, your summer vegetable garden in full harvest or those longer summer days where the sun sets late in the evening, it all happens and goes by too fast.   This past week I hopped in my Jeep, put down the windows, dangled my arm out into the California sun and meandered my way down Highway 101, southbound for some summer fun.   A classic California road trip was had visiting various wine regions including Carmel Valley, Paso Robles, Edna Valley, Santa Ynez Valley, Ojai, Ventura County and finishing to tuck my toes into the warm sand of Malibu’s beaches.

It was a whirlwind romance of various coastal climates, different terroir  and unique varietals.   At the end of it all, with a warm summer sun shining above and coastal waves crashing ahead, there in Malibu a beautiful 2010 Syrah Rosé was introduced that manages to capture all of the romantic senses of summer in a bottle.

While Emilio Estevez and Sonja Magdevski of Casa Dumetz grow only Pinot Noir vines in their Malibu yard (see “Drink Local, Eat Local” published in April on this site), Sonja Magdevski is a savvy vintner and knows best where to source other varietals for their winemaking.   Establishing a relationship with the Tierra Alta Vineyard in Santa Barbara County, Sonja knows that she is guaranteed to procure quality juicy fruit from a unique steep vineyard in the Ballard Canyon.   While the grapes for Casa Dumetz’ other varietals are not estate grown, there is not the traditional risk of supply shortage sourcing from Tierra Alta Vineyard.   The owners of the vineyard are growers only and do not make wine.  Instead this large vineyard is managed by John Belfy of Buona Terra Farming.   So while other vineyards may source fruit from this particular vineyard, barring a disastrous growing season, there should be plenty of fruit to go around to adventurous vintners.   This also allows the opportunity for vintners to establish a committed relationship to the grapes that they wish to bottle.

Tierra Alta Vineyard was originally planted in the year 2000 and as previously mentioned is one of the steeper vineyards in Ballard Canyon.   Given that the vineyard is relatively young, the vines are going to be more inclined presently to produce juicier, fruit-forward grapes for wine.   Couple in the climate of this area of the Santa Ynez Valley with the vineyard’s physical location and slow ripening is ensured which enhances the development of flavors in the grape (which transition into the final bottled wine).  Also unique to this wine growing region (as opposed to Napa Valley) are the calcareous soils that these grape vines call home.

Calcareous soils are similar to that found in the Rhone region of France and thus for any Rhone varietal fanatics, Syrah grapes will vary drastically compared to that found in much of Napa Valley.   Sonja Magdevski takes her interest in Syrah one step further before bottling her 2010 Syrah Rosé and has sought out a specific clone of Syrah called, “Syrah Noir”.   Our favorite varietals often have many different clones and depending on which one is selected or how the clones are combined will affect our love or dislike for a single varietal bottling.   Casa Dumetz’ 2010 Syrah Rosé is created from the Syrah Noir clone that is grown in the Tierra Alta Vineyard and the result is a delicately, yet sophisticatedly, perfumed wine made in a dry rosé style with enough personality to reflect the vineyard’s jammy, juicy young fruit.

In the glass this 2010 Syrah Rosé reflects a deep pink hue with personality.   If you are fortunate enough to be enjoying this wine with a classic Southern California coastal sunset, you will find that the wine mirrors the dramatic colors that paint the evening sky.   Using a screw top cap as the closure for the wine ensures that its enchanting aromas are encapsulated effectively and that with each pour, the grape’s true aromatic personality of subtle melon, berries, sage and rhubarb will coyly linger in your glass.   Served chilled, the dry style of this Rosé is refreshing, slightly tart and sets forth a delicate layering of flavors such as raspberry, rhubarb, herbs and a subtle kiss of vanilla.   Whether you find yourself in your backyard at the end of the day in the setting sun or looking out over the coast, Casa Dumetz’ 2010 Syrah Rosé is the perfect companion for summer dreaming.

To capture some quintessential culinary elements of summer and regional local food pairing, this week’s menu hosts:

1)      Ginger Lime Cantaloupe Wrapped in Prosciutto with Fresh Garden Clipped Chives; and

2)     Kristin’s Summer Malibu Ahi Tacos.

Rosé wines naturally gravitate to pairings involving cantaloupe and prosciutto and this Syrah Rosé is no different.  The slight tartness found in the wine instinctively reaches for the juicy refreshing nature of fresh cantaloupe.  However, given that the Syrah grape is involved in this Rosé, this means that the wine can handle a little spice in its accompanying food pairing.   To liven up this classic cantaloupe pairing and make it ready for any backyard summer afternoon affair, the fruit is tossed in ginger, lime and a tiny sprinkle of sugar before being wrapped in prosciutto and tied with freshly clipped chives from the garden.   To serve, slices of dry aged jack cheese are placed upon the platter beneath the appetizer.

The cantaloupe is a festive pairing ready to kick off easy backyard entertaining and the 2010 Syrah Rosé is anything but a wallflower when paired alongside.   To contrast the natural juicy and tart aspects of the wine and the cantaloupe, dry aged jack cheese is nibbled on after.   When paired with the wine, the cheese blossoms in the mouth with a burst of creamy full flavor.   This is an aspect of the true art involved when pairing wine with food, as the wine is often intended to enhance the food.   Similarly food can accentuate a wine’s attributes and with symbiotic complements such as these, smiles natural spread across your guests’ faces.

While the appetizer is being explored, searing on a hot charcoal grill are ahi tuna steaks which have been briefly marinated in ginger, lime, sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper.   White corn tortillas are quickly flipped on the grill before being dressed with shredded red cabbage and a summer inspired fruit salsa to ultimately create “Kristin’s Summer Malibu Ahi Tacos”.   Using chunks of summer seasonal watermelon, julienned fuji apple, minced pink lady apple, Mexican spring onion, chopped garden fresh basil and cilantro, cumin and lime juice, a unique salsa is prepared that will mirror the texture of the chopped pieces of ahi tuna steak.  Tiny pieces of avocado are added before the entire ensemble is dressed lightly with a freshly prepared vinaigrette of Spanish smoked paprika, cumin and lime juice.

When the wine is paired with the fish tacos, the flavors of sage increase in the wine and summer fresh flavors of basil and cilantro tumble forth from the salsa to naturally reciprocate.   Knife skills in the kitchen cannot be emphasized enough.   Using different complimentary shapes and sizes of cut produce better the flavors in your creations.  Including basil with watermelon gives the salsa a certain depth if not lustfulness.   Combined with the wine, the ensembles is collectively juicy on the front of the palate with flavors reminiscent of a summer backyard edible garden.

Rosés should be carefree and easy drinking as summer afternoons and evenings are meant to be enjoyed slowly.   Casa Dumetz’ 2010 Syrah Rosé naturally fits this profile, but with a lower alcohol content of 12.9%, easy-going enjoyment is ensured alongside casual backyard summer cuisine.   And while summer and summer vacations may flit past too quickly, a bottle of this romantic rosé will perhaps encourage that summer dreaming to linger for a little bit longer.

*While Casa Dumetz wines (including the 2010 Syrah Rosé featured here) can be found in Malibu, if you are traveling the Central Coast you may also find it at Gather Wine Bar in Arroyo Grande in San Luis Obispo County.   San Luis Obispo County is known for its quintessential California lifestyle, highly rated wines and commitment to seasonal, sustainable California produce and agriculture.   Learn more about wines from this county on a monthly basis here on this site under “The SLO Vine”.   Cheers!

With summer comes summer vacation and in California, it is easy to hop into one’s car and motor up and down Highway 101.   Leaving Napa Valley and heading south, one does not have to travel very far to find outstanding cuisine and other wine regions.   Descending into San Luis Obispo County, the temperature warms and the golden hills are suddenly painted with lush, full vineyards.   The soil beneath these vines is known for its limestone.   Limestone coupled with heat means Mourvedre and other Rhone varietals are not far behind.    

Paso Robles is still a small rural California town that is best known for its farmers and vineyards.  Driving through the streets of downtown Paso Robles at the end of the day reminds you that there is no reason to rush and that some of the best things California has to offer are simply grown from the earth.   People in this small town are friendly and greet you readily with a smile and an unsolicited “hello”.   There is a natural warmth that transcends and you instantly want to find a patch of shade, put your feet up and stay for awhile.   Despite what some may perceive as slow small town culture, high quality cuisine and wine are not missing from this backdrop.

Located in downtown Paso Robles at the corner of 14^th Street and Park, is Chef Chris Kobayashi’s restaurant, Artisan.   With a culinary education that was completed at the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco, a well-earned certificate in Baking and Pastry at the Culinary Institute of America in Napa Valley and culinary experience received from Asia de Cuba at Clift Hotel, Roy’s in San Francisco and Brix in Napa Valley, Chef Chris Kobayashi brings a combination of experience, sheer talent and artistry to Paso Robles’ culinary stage.

Whenever and wherever possible, Artisan supports local, sustainable and organic practices.   Given that San Luis Obispo County is renowned for its local organic produce, farms and grass-fed ranches, it is no secret why a chef of Kobayashi’s ability would elect to set up a kitchen in Paso Robles.   In fact, Chef Kobayashi has a local cheese maker create a cheese specially for him and it is aptly named, “Koby”.

On Monday night, my brother and I dropped into Artisan in Paso Robles and right out of the gate ordered the cheese plate.   Prior to arriving, my brother and I committed to two concepts:  (i) to order something that we had never tried before; and/or (ii) to order menu items which reflected a clear commitment to locally obtainable food or produce.  Studying the menu, we knew that our choices were going to be difficult, but only because nearly everything fit squarely within our criteria.   As you will see and follow vicariously below, clearly there are worse problems to have.

The cheese plate (which may be ordered either as a starting course or as a dessert) included four cheeses, three of which had local roots:   1) Koby; 2) la panza gold; 3) Templeton GAP; and 4) loma alta.

For a cheese plate to truly stand out, each sampling must be matched with an ingredient that helps to accentuate natural elements found in the cheese.  The Koby cheese for example has a natural nutty component and a subtle rich flavor that is enhanced with a bit of fig or date preserve.   The la panza gold seeks salt and yet when paired with olives, it meets its match.  The Templeton GAP is a delicious and creamy, yet becomes decadent with honey and almonds.   Finally the soft creamy flavors of the loma alta are enlivened by thinly sliced pieces of apple.

With two more starting courses on the way, main courses and ultimately dessert, one has to wonder what wine to pair.   Again, seeking local vintners, we were pleased to discover that we could order a flight of three wines.   After discussing what we were going to order, each of us settled on a red Rhone flight, which included a 2006 Anglim Grenache, a 2008 Calcareous Grenache/Mourvedre and a 2006 Ecluse “Lock Vineyard” Syrah.

Wine at our side, our next starter course arrived:  a dish involving meatballs, ricotta gnocchi, piave, and guanciale.

While Grenache is not known for its acidity, it does pair well with pork making it an excellent candidate to sip while nibbling on meatballs with guanciale.   Similarly the split peas in the dish are a creative and refreshing touch.

Next arrived a morel mushroom toast complete with a perfectly soft poached farm egg and crisped pancetta.

It is rare to visit a restaurant and find a wine that will inspire a love affair, but when Calcareous’ 2008 Grenache/Mourvedre is paired with Chef Kobayashi’s morel mushroom toast one’s palate wants to commit to this wine and food pairing immediately.   There is a rich smooth texture to the wine coupled with flavors of plum and ripe blackberries.   This in turn pairs beautifully with the earthiness of the morel mushrooms and the Grenache/Mourvedre wine expertly slices through the rich buttery nature of the poached farm egg and overall flavor of the morel mushroom toast.   If the concept is not enough on its own, it is the readily recognizably fresh flavors of the local ingredients used in this dish which makes it over-the-top.  

Ready to move to the main courses, my brother ordered the local farm raised rabbit with rabbit sausage, cavatelli and pioppini ragù.

Rabbit is something that fans often write with the request to ask me to prepare a weekly pairing, but frankly, I have not been bold enough in the kitchen on my own to take on such an endeavor.   Restaurants, however, are a perfect place to explore and learn about such dishes.   The local farm raised rabbit was so tender and almost melted in your mouth and as my brother savored each bite, he exclaimed, “Now I understand why Elmer Fudd was trying so hard to catch Bugs Bunny… he’s delicious.”

For myself, I ordered the hearst ranch grass fed beef flatiron with caramelized julienned shallots, cabernet butter and fries.

Knowing that I would finish with a local Syrah, I wanted beef to handle any potential tannins.   Seeing that a local grass-fed beef was on the menu, this was an opportunity that I could not pass up.   Grass-fed beef is far leaner than that which is found in commercial supermarkets and frankly tastes the way that beef should taste and much like it did when I was growing up.  While a Syrah may offer some tannins, this Syrah was silky smooth and made to mirror a French style of Syrah (which is my personal preference).   With its tannins in check, the cabernet butter is a wonderful complement to the wine with its cabernet notes.

Finishing a meal with beef and a tasting of Syrah, a palate cleanser is merited.   For those who followed my endeavors this spring at the Hall Cabernet Cookoff, you will recall that created a cabernet braised lavender beef, complete with a lavender chocolate truffle at the end.   Throughout my dinner at Artisan, I sat facing the chalkboard reflecting some of the nightly dessert offerings.   Seeing Medjool Date ice cream on the board and also a lavender ice cream, I knew my selection before I even commenced the meal.   Lavender, related to the mint family, is a natural palate cleanser.  

Remembering the Chef Chris Kobayashi also completed his pastry chef training at the Culinary Institute in Napa Valley, dessert is something special at Artisan.   He makes his own ice creams and my brother, somehow finding room went for the Peach Buckle with blueberry crisp and peach crème fraiche.

All in all, every item that we ordered consistently revealed an eloquent thoughtfulness conveyed collectively through each dish’s texture, flavor profile and compatibility with local regional wine pairing.  Food and wine are serious business when paired properly and when studying the menu at Artisan, it is evident that this theory is embraced here.  Yet while cuisine is taken seriously at Artisan, the experience is equally enhanced by the quality of the folks who are working here.   Each individual is friendly, kind and readily willing to answer any question or patiently wait while you study the menu.  Smiles abound from each individual working at this restaurant and the environment is inviting despite the high caliber of cuisine emerging from the kitchen.   

Also, having explored several menu items, it is easy to trust Chef Chris Kobayashi and if you find yourself at Artisan on a Monday night for the next month or so, let him take you on a “field trip” and allow him to show you his local culinary world with a pre-determined menu.   If I find myself motoring through Paso Robles, I certainly will.

Summer, winter, spring or fall . . . no matter the season each week I create a recipe to pair with a bottle of wine.   In some instances, it is the recipe that dominates and other times it is a particular bottle of wine that I wish to feature which controls the pairing.   Yet after two years and two months of religiously posted weekly articles, I have longed for new feedback (if not outright participation), from my reading audience.   So lately, I post requests from time to time on Facebook for friends or fans to suggest an ingredient or a dish to inspire a weekly article.   Ideas have been thrown about and some have emerged in weekly articles as they inspire different recipes.   But one individual, one fan, one friend decided to go the extra mile.   Actually, Greg decided to go the extra thousands of miles as while on assignment in the Middle East, he sent me a small package and within that little box on my front porch sat a container of . . .  Afghan Saffron.

Seeing that container yielding all of those many, many, many tiny red threads of saffron made this little chef jump for joy.   Greg, a like-minded chef, knows the value and importance of good saffron.   With some of the best saffron coming from the Middle East, a container like I received might as well as have been filled with culinary gold and by all means aptly earned Greg new status as a revered anointed  “Saffron King” in our circle.

On the kitchen countertop the saffron sat, almost staring at me and daring me to use it daily.   It waited patiently last weekend as avocado was wrapped in phyllo, seared and dressed with a spiced raspberry-basil sauce.   Like a cool cat, that saffron knew that its day was going to arrive with a thoughtful recipe.   Certainly, the traditional recipes floated to mind.   Largely Spanish cuisine dominated my brain and while saffron mussels or paella were options, my creativity yawned and clicked “next…”   With seasonal sweet red bell peppers and giant vidalia onions in the refrigerator and some green Spanish olives staring down at me from a shelf above, something Spanish-influenced was guaranteed.   Reflecting again to comments from my reading audience, a request from my brother re-emerged, “Could you do something creative and reoccurring with burgers this summer?”  

Burgers, this American staple is a summertime favorite and a California standby for easy, casual red wine pairing.  While I have been known for a decade or longer for pairing a good basic cheeseburger with a quality Cabernet Sauvignon, that pairing just simply is not interesting enough to write about or photograph.   However, the brilliant aspect of burgers is that if you are creative, some over-the-top creations can come to life on your charcoal backyard grill.   With this in mind, the recipe outline for a Spanish Burger quickly came together and was slated to grace this kicked back casual connoisseur’s patio.

Knowing that I have a love for a good Cabernet Sauvignon with a burger, what red wine is going to pair with a Spanish Burger?   Rioja students who are reading this will eagerly shout, “Tempranillo!”  Show-offs . . .  but loveable show-offs, you are.   Nevertheless, let’s take a step back.   Burgers are notorious for a fat content.   Whether that fat content comes from the quality of meat being used or the cheese placed on top, if the fat content is high tannins best cleanly slice through the fat and simultaneously allow the natural fruit flavors of the wine to race forward.   This is why typically a big bold tannic Cabernet Sauvignon will pair with the all-American classic cheeseburger.   Tempranillo, the infamous grape grown most successfully throughout Spain, offers a different flavor profile, less tannins and often dances best with the spices found in traditional Spanish cuisine.   But what if we found a blend of both worlds?   What if we found a wine in which Cabernet Sauvignon was combined with Tempranillo?   This would be a bottling that would potentially thumb its nose at traditional Napa Valley Bordeaux blends.   Is it a pipe dream?  Is it an urban legend in Napa Valley?  Or did it perhaps emerge in a 2008 vintage?   If you have had the good fortune to drop in on the hospitality staff at Sequoia Grove in Napa Valley, you will have found this wine in the winery’s 2008 vintage of its proprietary Rebellious Red.

It is guaranteed that you will not ever under appreciate a Sequoia Grove red wine, particularly when Cabernet Sauvignon is involved.  Mike Trujillo, the head wine maker at the winery, is simply gifted when it comes to all things Cabernet Sauvignon.   Each year the winery releases a red blend wine called “Rebellious Red”.   As the name aptly implies, a daring combination of red varietals are combined into this easy drinking red wine.   Cabernet Sauvignon, being a winery house favorite, is always included, but in 2008, the winemaking staff decided to spice matters up a bit and introduce that famed grape of the Rioja, Tempranillo.   Tempranillo is difficult to find in Napa Valley (particularly grown and made well).   When it is introduced to one of Mike Trujillo’s famed Cabernet Sauvingon varietals, however, this is a red wine that is going to flow easily into your glass and the glasses of your dining companions.  Delicious sour red cherry with soft anise notes greet the front of the palate and chew their way across.   This wine is a smooth aloof character that grabs your sensory attention and then coasts across the palate.   Yet before leaving, the 2008 Rebellious Red presents a breathtaking finish of polished fruit and spice.

With these elements present in the wine, it is easily foreseeable that this week menu holds:

• Spanish Burger With Saffron Mayonaisse And Caramelized Vidalia Onions and Sweet Red Bell Peppers

When one decides to “improve” the traditional American cheeseburger, the burger recipe becomes highly personalized, if not tricked out.   Anything within reason can be added and the creative combinations are unlimited.   To create a Spanish Burger, however, I decided that the meat mixture should be a 50/50 combination of ground pork and 96% lean ground beef.   While the burger is lean at the base, chopped marinated green olives are added along with chopped plumped golden raisins.  Typical to Spanish cuisine a combination of seasonings are added to the mixture:  pureed roasted garlic, lemon thyme, cumin, ginger, ground mustard, smoked Spanish paprika, fresh ground black pepper and Worcestershire sauce.    The burger is placed atop a charcoal grill and dressed with grated manchego cheese.   The aromas from the grill are tantalizing, but when the burger is placed on a heated whole wheat English muffin, with Saffron mayonnaise (which includes meyer lemon, saffron, lemon thyme and chopped caramelized sweet red bell peppers), caramelized Vidalia onions and caramelized sweet red bell peppers, the flavors are extraordinary and you will be thankful that you decided to “pimp your burger”.

Greg’s saffron is used sparingly in both the burger and the mayonnaise.   Saffron has been noted for its anti-depressant qualities, but if not used carefully it can quickly render itself as the “giggle spice” delivering feelings of euphoria (particularly when in a dish paired with wine).  

When this over-the-top Spanish Burger is paired with Sequoia Grove’s Rebellious Red, it is a kismet match of food, spice and wine.   While this recipe is definitely a creative and unique recipe, it finds its destined cultural home when paired with a Tempranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon blend.   There is a certain rush that comes from pairing with a wine with a recipe that is so closely culturally attuned to a varietal’s natural, native attributes.  Saffron pairs beautifully with Sequoia Grove’s Rebellious Red along with other Spanish spices and demonstrates how vivacious and rich this red blend wine can be.

The next time burgers are slated to be on your barbeque menu, live a little and throw caution to the wind and create your own tricked out burger.   Sprinkle a little saffron in your recipe to unlock a little adventure and some guaranteed giggles among your guests.

Last week I made a feigned attempt to resist featuring a sparkling wine under the excuse that I had commenced the month of July with some bubbles.   This week, however, commences a new month that is destined to be filled with adventure, fun and coastal excursions.  With much scheduled ahead in my monthly calendar, it is only fitting to raise a glass of these giddy chilled bubbles that readily wait.

Napa Valley sparkling wine has been often featured in my articles over the past two years,  yet no bottling is created equally and for those bubbly enthusiasts, touring about the valley will offer a unique focused opportunity to learn the art of wine blending when sampling among various vintners.   Sparkling wine in California can be made from a single varietal, a blend of two or a creative combination of several different varietals.   Depending on the sugar added to the blend, the wine will lend itself to a wide interpretative spectrum from extremely dry to slightly sweet.

While I generally prefer to focus on smaller family-owned wineries, this week I wanted to select something that is easily accessible to anyone.   When you look to feature something readily and affordably accessible to everyone, you find yourself quickly picking up a bottle of a sparkling wine made by a large corporate-owned winery.  In this case, I decided to feature Mumm Winery (“Mumm”).   Mumm has been in the sparkling business for over twenty-five years and if any winery is to persist in the ever-changing and challenging landscape of vintning, regardless of ownership or size, there is a resident reliable degree of quality.

Selecting a bottle of Mumm’s Napa Valley Brut Prestige, it comes readily recommended by those in the industry, including the Wine Enthusiast who awarded it 92 points.   Just as any sparkling wine is unique, this bottle of bubbles is a combination of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and yet in the mouth, its light, crisp carefree feel in the mouth will cause the palate to do a double-taste as an often expected heavy mouth feel is absent.   Its nose is gentle with aromas of toast and white flower blossoms coyly flit past.   On the palate, there is a distinct dry nature reflecting a crisp refined structure with flavors of mild stone fruit, fig, pronounced citrus and a lingering kiss of vanilla.   Add in a notable balanced acidity and it is immediately apparent why this wine will pair well with a variety of culinary dishes.

Given the distinct acidity of this sparkling wine, it will also pair well with concoctions involving buttery or buttery-like textures or even the classic mousse.   There is always something festive about sparkling wine and I have been longing to do something with California’s darling, the avocado, and this presented the perfect opportunity for this week’s menu to assertively host:

• Phyllo-Wrapped Avocado With Spiced Raspberry-Basil Sauce.

Two years ago, I created a phyllo-wrapped salmon for an article on the site and to pair with chardonnay.   When recounting the recipe and the merits of the pairing with a chef in Napa Valley, said chef said dreamily, “Anything tastes good wrapped in phyllo.”    Generally not a big fan of butter myself, I could see the merits of the view as phyllo has a certain lighter texture and if used with the proper butter (or butter substitute), it can be absurdly decadent without the heavy taste and texture of puff pastry.   Thus, if you are pairing a light acidic, crisp elegant sparkling wine, phyllo dough becomes necessary over puff pastry.

And what about the quintessential California avocado?   As summer warms, these delights ripen slowly and naturally on trees throughout Central and Southern California waiting to enamor the recipient with a buttery texture for which only this fruit is recognized.   Avocados are known for their fat content (no matter how “healthy” they are for you, they still are fat) and to combine them with phyllo dough is a sinful, once in a blue moon, delight.

People have often complained to me about working with phyllo dough.   Phyllo dough is paper thin and incredibly delicate.   Perhaps it is the near manical focus that is required to perfectly lift a sheet off and transfer it to your working space and the near surgeon precise touch that is required to brush melted butter upon the dough without ripping it that can allow me to lose myself in this methodical focused culinary procedure.   Just as with any dough, the less you handle it, the lighter it will texturally fare in cooking and with gentle precision it is neatly folded to an approximate size before precisely sliced pieces of avocado are laid atop.   Adding minced carrots, a sprinkle of sea salt and a dollop of cream cheese, the phyllo dough is folded and rolled to snugly encapsulate California’s finest fruit.   Next it is placed in heated canola oil to gently cook for a minute or two and the result emerges with a lovely golden brown crisped phyllo dough outer layer.   

Prior to working with the dough, a spiced raspberry-basil sauce is created for drizzling and dipping.   Raspberries are known for their lower sugar content but more widely known for their acidity.  Add shallots, ginger, garlic, red chili pepper flakes, Meyer lemon, white wine vinegar and minced basil to create a sauce that is uniquely spiced and yet has a kiss of that raspberry fruit flavor.   When drizzled over the phyllo-wrapped avocado, the result adds a certain liveliness to the pairing that is well-intended to ferret out the citrus acidity found in Mumm’s sparkling wine.

This is by no means a guilt-free appetizer.  Nevertheless it is creative and will slow down even the most hurried guest at your table.   Admittedly, this pairing is for those fans that have reached out over the past two years or opened lanes at the local grocery store for me on sight, who refer to themselves as “The Casual Gluttons”.   Every once in a while something decadent and sinful is a well-merited, deliberate delicious moment.