Jul 26 2011

Varietal Summer Escape

In the last few weeks, a ferocious summer heat wave has gripped the entire nation all but for Napa Valley and the Bay Area.   Temperatures remain idyllic and the closer you are to the coast, a cooling fog rolls in making tannic red wines palatable.   While this may be my reality, it is not that of my reading base and last week, trying to inspire creativity with a new twist, I took to Facebook to seek suggestions as to what ingredient or dish to create and I will match the challenge of finding a suitable wine pairing.   The result was a resounding plea to somehow ease the excessive heat and humidity throughout the nation.

Imagery, ingredients and dry crisp refreshing white wines were imperative to this relief article.   A good friend in the South reminded that mangoes have come into season and that with his local excessive heat and humidity, a certain mango-seafood ceviche was the vote to ease entertaining in the local elements.   A figurative light bulb illuminated above my head and I focused in on the seasonal mango.  

Mangoes have a unique flavor, sweetness, texture and acidity.   Given the excessive heat and humidity elsewhere in the United States, pairing this ingredient with anything but a dry white wine would be oppressive.   Yet looking in Napa Valley, dry white wines are often limited to sparkling wine, sauvignon blanc wine and very few remaining chenin blanc vines.  I had recently featured sparkling wine and while that would be an effortless pairing, that was not the solution.   Sauvignon Blanc is granted one of the top refreshing summer white wines, but with its high acidity, to pair it with mango would be a culinary disaster in the making.   Chenin Blanc would be a welcome pairing, yet, those that I appreciate, I have already featured.    Riesling came to mind but none were to be found in my collection as this varietal is rarely found in Napa Valley (largely because it is too hot to be grown successfully and similarly as each of my picks had already been featured in prior articles).   Studying my collection, it became apparent that it was time to leave Napa Valley . . . if not the great state of California.

Before my readership gasps (and the Pacific Northwest jumps for joy), let’s think rationally.   It is summer.  Summer is known for road trips and jaunts out of state on the proverbial holiday road.   Looking in the rear view mirror at Napa Valley, many wineries are featuring 2010 white wines and readily understood, that is a vintage that is going to be hit or miss and maybe it is beneficial to give your Napa-based palate a “time out”.  Look instead to other American Viticultural Areas and wine regions in the state or the country that were not beleaguered with a notably challenged growing season.   In this spirit, mentally load the family car and venture up to Washington State in search of a varietal that excels there:   Riesling.

Riesling thrives in cooler climates but equally is highly terrroir-expressive.   If you have had the opportunity to enjoy this varietal previously and are somewhat familiar with it, exploring it in various locations throughout the Pacific Northwest and Northern California will be a worthwhile and fun education.  Depending on where the grapes are harvested, the wine will show off greater fruit or increased minerality or it may boldly set forth an almost racy acidity.   Washington State has a combination of climate and soil that sets forth a confident varietal and yet with enough diversity that winemakers can show off the varietal’s ability to be dry, off-dry or sweet.   Many confuse Riesling as being a sweet wine, but it can be dry and when it is, it is a summer’s meal preferred accompaniment. 

Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington State offers an outstanding Riesling that is a collaboration between a famed German winemaker and a renown local winemaker.   The Eroica Riesling artfully shows the ability to blend together two distinct winemaking styles:  (i) a German style that is regarded for sleek elegance and (ii) a Washington style that is loyal to its region’s bolder fruit and rounder mouth-feel.    Open a bottle of the 2009 Eroica Columbia Valley Riesling and the palate will find a wine oasis despite excessive summer heat.

Falling into the glass, the wine is aromatic and fresh as a wine country summer evening.   Accompanied by crisp minerality, the wine offers a refreshing flintiness that skates across the palate.  Undeniable citrus accompanied by breathless soft stone fruit render this wine to a summer romance in the glass. As the wine finishes on the palate, there is a quick feisty twist of lime.   Further, one of the silent sung beauties of Washington State is its cooler climate which perceivably renders lower alcohol content in its wine offerings.   In the case of the 2009 Eroica, the wine only levels 12% alcohol content making it seem nearly guiltless.   Taking all of this into account, it is easy to envision why this wine will pair with a broad spectrum of food pairings which include fish, cheeses, fruit and spicy fair.

Reflecting back to my friend’s mango ceviche suggestion, culinary inspiration was derived and this week’s menu hosts:

  • Riesling Marinated Grilled Pacific Halibut Topped with Mango-Avocado Salsa on a bed of Julienned Riesling Steamed Zucchini and Carrots.

Seafood is an easy pairing for Riesling.   However, it is summer and with hot temperatures, light easy fare is desired.   While Chilean Sea Bass flavor-wise would be a terrific pairing with mango and this Riesling, this fish is presently on the “avoid list” from the Monterrey Bay Aquarium.   It is listed as a fish to avoid as it is over-farmed and caught presently.   This list changes frequently and needs to be monitored (if you are an avid seafood fan) but in the spirit of being committed to promoting sustainability, perfectly consumable Pacific Halibut was selected.

Halibut on the East Coast can often have a stronger flavor, but if you find yourself on the West Coast, you will want to give Pacific Halibut a whirl as its flavor is delicately milder.  As fish marinates quickly, the halibut is set in  some of the Riesling in the fridge briefly prior to be sprinkled with ground ginger, fresh-ground pepper and sea salt.   Set atop a warm charcoal grill, the fish is doused with a few sprinkles of fresh Meyer lemon. 

Similarly, perfectly julienned zucchini and carrots are quickly steamed and sautéed in a bit of the Riesling.   This enhances the carrot’s naturally sweet flavor and the absorbent zucchini picks up the bright refreshing flavors of the wine to brighten the flavor of the vegetables which will create a moist bed beneath the fish.   Similarly, as the flavors are refreshing and bright, they are yet benign enough to not disturb the myriad of flavors piled above.

To top the halibut, a mango-avocado salsa is created using mangos, avocado, spring onion, sweet red bell pepper, jalapeno pepper, lime juice and fresh cilantro.   However, before assembling the salsa, the mango slices are sprinkled with ground ginger and added to the grill.  By grilling the mango, the mango naturally releases its sugars and slightly caramelizes while marrying with the ground ginger spice.  As an added bonus it takes on a slightly smoky flavor due to the charcoal.   Pieces of avocado are added at the last minute as the warm temperature of the mango will cause the avocado to soften slightly and accentuate the natural buttery nature of the Hass avocado.   It is the buttery nature of the avocado which then compliments the fish, as the salsa tops the piece.

The result is a light easy meal with a refreshing wine that could slice through the worst heat and humidity wherever you may find yourself in the country.  There is no strong fishy flavor whatsoever.   The halibut is substantive and delicious.   The flavors involved in the dish tie directly to the wine and given the wine’s citrus finish, the palate is naturally pulled to the flavors of the mango-avocado salsa.

The 2009 Eroica Columbia Valley Riesling is seemingly guiltless, easy drinking and conducive to carefree gatherings or at least reminding you to slow down, put your feet up and catch those late fading rays of summer sun while the rest of the world impatiently waits.

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Jul 19 2011

Because It’s Wednesday

Every so often, on a whim, I root through my wine collection.    And there, carefully hidden from prying visiting eyes is a prized collection of Cabernet Sauvignon wines.    These Cabernet Sauvignon wines are kept in a cool dark place.   It is here that these wines thrive as they rest peacefully and undisturbed.   Time can be on this varietal’s side for in Napa Valley, where Cabernet Sauvignon is king, many of these bottlings can often age for ten to twenty years.

Wine evolves with time and what might be a big bold tannic wine upon release can emerge smooth, elegant and sensually disarming with careful aging.  Yet as wine ages, its identity can be fleeting.   One year it may rapture your palate with rich jammy fruit and six months later it may command your attention with distinctive spices.   At some point, a bottling will open and the fruit will be faint, if not fading.   Cellaring wine properly is a feat in itself, but knowing when exactly to open a bottle before a vintage has its last hurrah is an art.

Perceived pressure or not, there is an element of mystery with opening an aging bottle of wine.   It is a discovery in the making and generally, such a discovery goes so splendidly well that your guests will marvel.

As wine ages, it appreciates in value.   This can hinder a connoisseur or enable him or her with an almost feisty sense of reckless abandon.   Those who are fearless know that there is a certain guilty pleasure of sneaking into the depths of a wine cellar, quietly pulling an aging bottle and opening it simply to see where the wine is “at” in its aging.   There needs to be no special occasion for such samplings.   Perhaps such an opening is merely because it is Wednesday.

Years ago I found myself at Alpha Omega Winery in Napa Valley on a quiet winter Sunday afternoon and found myself sharing tales of “what have you ever opened on a whim” with the winery’s hospitality manager.   No matter what one shared and the other one-upped, the resounding occasion was, “because it’s Wednesday.”

This past week I mulled and contemplated what to feature.  I had been absent the week prior and generally such absence merits something of interest or reward for the returning article.   My mind thought through my wine collection and all of the waiting possibilities.  I thought about what I had featured this past year, what I had not, what I had consumed on a personal whim and what I had given as a gift.  My memory and mind focused on that carefully hidden collection of Cabernet Sauvignon wines: a stash of wine that to access is no easy feat.   Earlier this spring I had snuck back into this section of my collection and pulled a bottle of Alpha Omega Winery’s 2004 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon to give as a gift to my best childhood friend who nearly shares my birthday and who I have known since birth.   A simple email determined that her bottle was still waiting to be opened and while she was waiting for a special occasion, those words “because it is Wednesday” drifted into my head.

Boldly emerging from the collection, out came a perfectly 55 degree cool bottle of Alpha Omega Winery’s 2004 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.  Cool to the touch, knowing that this bottle has been resting seven years since release, there was a palpable anticipation of what was to be discovered.

Consisting approximately of a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc, Alpha Omega Winery’s (“Alpha Omega”) Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon always yield promise of being artfully crafted, blended and dreamily balanced.   While not yielding grapes from a single American Viticultural Area (“AVA”), a wine labeled as a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon instead offers the adventure of grapes from various AVA’s and the distinct opportunity for a skilled winemaker to show off the best that the diverse and varied terroir  of Napa Valley has to offer.

Pouring into the glass, the wine flaunts gorgeous ruby red jewel tones that will soften the eyes of any admirer.   The wine’s coloring is starting to thin ever so slightly at the edges due to aging, but given where the wine is presently, it will still continue to age for a bit longer.  Checking in on an aging Cabernet Sauvignon such as this is helpful as well if (like me) you have a few other bottles of this wine hiding in the depths of your collection.

Due to its age, no aerating or oxidation is required.   This wine is ready to go in the glass but before your palate can be entertained, your nose will certainly be stopped.  Alpha Omega’s 2004 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon to date shows off a fantastically beguiling nose.   Depending on how your nose approaches the glass will vary greatly what you smell.   At a distance, the wine shows off undeniably distinct rich milk chocolate, vanilla and pipe tobacco.   Drawing closer, the nose discovers nuances of warm toffee.  Finally, resting the nose towards the top of the glass lush ripe black cherries emerge coupled with a slight whisp of thyme and violet.

Finally the wine meets a mouth that at this point is slightly salivating with sheer anticipation.   Greeted with a hint of acidity, the wine is impeccably balanced and clean distinct flavors of cherry, chocolate, herbs and a kiss of vanilla step forth.   Between the nose and clever changing flavor profile of this wine, this is clearly a sophisticated red that will turn any female’s head and command respect from the palate of any male.   It is a wine that you do not want to rush, but a wine that captures your full attention and your palate respectfully stands by to see what unfolds.

Texturally, while this wine has aged and is slightly lighter in the mouth, it still yields meritable body mid-palate and presents a finish that denies the palate the ability to forget the wine any time soon.   The wine continues to linger and present a slow seductive changing slide show of flavors.

With one’s attention and senses fully captured by Alpha Omega’s 2004 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, the mind vividly envisions a variety of ingredients to pair with this wine.   From traditional culinary pairings to simpler combinations, aged cheeses, spinach, shallots, mushrooms, herbs and butter will be a good start.   The beauty of aged wines is that they are meant to be enjoyed, savored and lingered over.    They are not intended or designed to pair with big heavy meals.   For these wines aloofly sit in the wine glass waiting coyly for you to come to them, not to greet that which sits upon your plate.

As often appropriate, less is more with an aged Cabernet Sauvignon and keeping it cooly casual, this week’s menu hosts:

  • Panini For Grown-Ups with Sherry-Mushroom Gravy

Knowing that there are number of elements to match in this wine, creating a Panini with expensive cheeses is a decadent simple start to ensure that this is an affair designed for grown-ups only at the table.  With a visit to your favorite knowledgeable cheese monger, you will surely return home with something sinfully delicious and unique to the wine that you are pairing.   Here a combination of a dry-aged jack cheese is combined with San Joaquin gold.    Capturing the dry aged nature of the jack with the silky fat of the San Joaquin gold, it matches nicely with the texture of the wine.   Spinach is a favorite vegetarian pairing of mine with Cabernet Sauvignon.   The flavor of spinach is rich in its own right and can go toe to toe with the depth of a Cabernet Sauvignon.    Combine the spinach with lemon, butter, shallots and a bit of garlic and add that to the inside of the Panini.   Coat the outer sides with bread, but prior to adding it to the grill pan, dredge it through herbed flour.   Flour that is mixed with minced thyme, rosemary and freshly cracked pepper dust the outside of the Panini before it is coated in a beaten egg.    When this sandwich emerges from the grill pan, it is trendy and rich and fit for an exquisite aged Cabernet Sauvignon.   To dress the sandwich, add a chunky gravy of sherry, shallot and mushrooms.

 

When plating the dish, give your olfactory senses a jump start by garnishing the plate with rosemary and lavender plucked from the garden.   Much of one’s ability to taste elements in a wine is affected by one’s sense of smell.   When aromatic elements such as these are added to the plate, it teases your senses and primes the palate in a coy game of culinary foreplay.

Slowly nibbling on this type of combination, it becomes apparent that the incorporation of natural fats into pairings with aged red wines revitalize the varietal’s fruit and spice.  One’s lips become slippery with this dish and the wine greedily clings to the fat from the butter, cheese and egg to render vivacious fruit and spice.   Similarly the wine washes back with waves of milk chocolate and vanilla persuading the palate that there is no need for dessert for it sits in the glass before it.  

Even though this wine is seven years past its bottling date, Alpha Omega’s 2004 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is still giving all that it has and shows no indication of giving up.  With that in mind, noting the other remaining bottles of this vintage in my collection there will be other “Wednesdays” to look forward to.

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Jul 05 2011

Cooling Off in Carneros

The 4th of July holiday weekend brought hot, dry weather to Napa Valley.  Folks slowly motored up and down Highway 29, taking in the beauty of the valley itself and wandering into wineries on whim.   While the crowds filled houses known for its Cabernet Sauvignon or feisty Zinfandel, with the sun baking the valley floor I headed in an opposite direction, to the Carneros American Viticultural Area (“AVA”).  

The Carneros region of Napa Valley sits south and west of the traditional valley where most visitors spend the bulk of their days.   It is one of the cooler regions in Napa Valley and for that (among other qualities), it is recognized as an official designated AVA.   In the summer, while the sun may beat warmly from above, a gentle cool marine breeze blows inland naturally cooling the vines.   This natural air conditioner primes these vines to grow grapes such as Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Pinot Noir.   Often graced by the fog, these vines receive more natural moisture than vineyards up valley.

On Saturday, it was here that I found myself, lost in a sea of lush green vines.   Tiny grapes were apparent everywhere, a sight that reassured that a 2011 harvest will be underway.   Within a few months, indeed, this vineyard will be bustling with workers, clipping grapes.   Those grapes will then fill large bins of trucks and bounce happily along Highway 29 to some other Napa Valley destination to be made into wine.   Looking up at the pristine powder blue sky above, the sun beat into my face as a cool marine breeze whispered past and for now, it was a quintessential summer Carneros day.

Up the road sits the sparkling wine chateau, Domaine Carneros.    It is not to be missed, sitting majestically on a hilltop with a seemingly infinite number of stairs to climb to its terrace.   On a warm summer day, a glass of sparkling wine can easily be enjoyed.  With a holiday weekend in full swing, nothing would be more festive than some bubbles and more specifically, a Brut Rosé.

Domaine Carneros annually releases its “Cuveé de la Pompadour,” commonly known as the winery’s Brut Rosé.   With only twelve percent (12%) alcohol, this sparkling wine also easily fits into casual summer enjoyment.   Filling the glass, tiny bubbles work their way to the top.  Aromas of sweet cherries and raspberries faintly pass the nose before the mouth is greeted by gently sweet mirroring flavors coupled with a hint of lemon zest and a bit of summer rhubarb.

In reality, I love to pair this sparkling wine with something as simple as salted buttered popcorn.   In November, I have been known to open a bottle of this in the kitchen on a Thanksgiving Day afternoon for whoever graciously kept me company as I cooked or even dared to lend a helping hand.   But it is summer and no less is it the 4th of July weekend.   It is a different holiday, so there is no reason why a menu should be any less festive:

1)      Celebration of Summer Scallop Salad dressed with Beurre Blanc Rosé Sauce; and

2)     Raspberry Champagne Roasted Cauliflower with Parmesan Cheese.

On a three-day summer holiday weekend, it is hard to not find foods on a grill and slathered with a sugary marinade, if not overall over-the-top processed.   While those foods have a time and a place, by the time that one is attending their third barbeque of the weekend it is a bit much.   Yet taking a break from the traditional July 4th fare does not mean that food cannot be flavorful, creative and capture the essence of summer.

Heirloom tomatoes, which are known for their funky appearance and varied colors, combine in an array of slices to capture varying flavors of sweet, classic and robust.   Pickling cucumbers have come into season and when they are thinly sliced, they are sweet and delicate.   This combination placed atop a bed of sweet red and green lettuces harvested from the garden is lightly dressed in raspberry champagne shallot vinaigrette to turn delicious.    

Scallops are sliced cross-wise to become what many begrudgingly acknowledge as “skinny scallops”.   When creating a plated salad, however, this thinner version of the traditional scallop is welcomed as it is dimensionally compatible with the other underlying vegetables, spreads the flavor across the plate and is overall texturally more desirable.   To ready the scallops, they are seasoned with sea salt and fresh ground black pepper before being quickly and gently seared in a light butter and olive oil mixture.   After they are placed on top of the salad, a Beurre Blanc Rosé Sauce (using the featured sparkling wine, butter and minced shallots) emerges from the stove top to be drizzled over the scallops.   A final sprinkling of garden fresh chopped chives decorates a gorgeous tribute to what a summer garden can yield.

Cauliflower is also presently in season and when oven roasted, its rich flavor is enhanced.  Tossed in olive oil and lemon thyme, the cauliflower pieces are roasted and briefly removed from the oven to be tossed in raspberry champagne vinegar.   Placed back onto the baking tray the pieces are sprinkled with freshly grated Parmesan cheese before returning to the oven.    Once roasted, the cauliflower is served alongside in tender, delicate butter lettuce (which is known for its sweet flavor and velvety and sensual texture).

While the roasted cauliflower has a delicious roasted cheesy and potato-like flavor, its flavor profile is flirtatiously brightened by the raspberry champagne vinegar.   When taken with the wine, this hint of bright flavor accentuates the berries tasted in the Brut Rosé.   Similarly the scallop is no stranger to sparkling wine and using some of the wine to create the butter-shallot sauce gives the meal a festive summer appeal.

Whether you harvest produce from your backyard garden or your local produce stand, your taste buds will enliven and celebrate a vibrant sensuality that only summer seasonal vegetables can offer.    As a wide array of fruits and vegetables come into season like a never-ending parade, it reminds one of the terrific bounty that the humble dirt beneath our soles can yield.

Meanwhile, there is still a quiet summer peace in the Carneros AVA, on the back roads away from the traffic of the tourists.   It is here that you can smell the dust of the earth, the grapes growing on the vines, and where eucalyptus, lavender and rosemary gently perfume the air.   It also reminds one readily that the wineries are farmers.   And as farmers, these vintners work intimately with the microclimates that lie within Napa Valley.  For those in the Carneros AVA, there is much to be harvested.

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Jun 28 2011

Summer Backyard Barbeque and Zinfandel

With the holiday weekend ahead, of all the wines that could be served in backyard barbeque celebrations, if the evening temperatures cool and are moderate then Zinfandel should be one within easy reach.  

Widely planted throughout California, Zinfandel is the red varietal that perhaps comes in second presently to the famed Cabernet Sauvignon.   The varietals, however, naturally are distinct in personality.   Zinfandel is not a complex wine, but that is fine as there is a time and place for complexity.   While Zinfandels lack complexity, they are nice in that often times they are easy drinking.   Yet depending on where the vines are planted or how old the vines are, the varietal can surprise you and bring bold flavors to the table.   Sometimes you want something that grabs your palate’s attention immediately with its flash, fruit and spice.  It invigorates your taste buds and youthful hope springs anew.

Girard Winery, (“Girard”, with its tasting room located in Yountville), makes quality wines within affordable reach.   Depending on the vintage of Girard’s Old Vine Zinfandel that you either have or purchase, the composition of the bottling will vary.   For example, the 2006 Old Vine Zinfandel has a 23% mixed blend of black grapes (like Charbono).   The current available vintage has a small percentage of Petite Sirah added.  In any vintage, many of the vines cultivated are over a century old.   If you happen to have the 2006 Old Vine Zinfandel, its bouquet still amazes your nose as the bottle is opened as aromas of cherries, milk chocolate and mint unfold.   Despite the impressive nose, the wine casually ambles across the palate as it is graced by soft refined tannins and a silky texture.   Flavors of raspberry, cherry, plum and anise are enjoyed.

As the 4th of July approaches, folks gather around the grill for the traditional burger or hot dog.  But what if a more seasonal approach is taken?   Stone fruit is continuing to ripen and grace California’s farmer’s markets and produce stands.   With this in mind, this week’s menu hosts:

1)      Hoisin Based Barbeque Shredded Chicken Open Face Sandwiches with Grilled Vidalia Onions, Plums and Apricots; and

2)     Fresh Peach-Almond Pie with Macademia Nut Crumb Topping.

Who says that grilling cannot incorporate some of California’s summer seasonal finest fruit?   Thick slices of freshly baked bread are coated in melted butter and olive oil before being placed into a hot oven to bake.   Chicken marinated in a homemade barbeque sauce of hoisin sauce, cinnamon, minced shallot, Dijon mustard, garlic, lemon juice and other ingredients is placed atop a charcoal grill until moist and cooked enough to be roughly shredded.   Apricot and plum slices are quickly placed on the outer edges of the grill to heat.   The sandwich slices are stacked with these ingredients plus caramelized seasonal Vidalia onion and lime thyme harvested from the garden.

When paired with the wine, the tartness of the stone fruit pairs with the feisty nature of the Zinfandel.   The varietal surprisingly nicely entangles its raspberry flavors with the grilled stone fruit, acting like a ribbon destined to tie this palate-pleasing creation together.  Similarly the cinnamon in the barbeque sauce coaxes forward the anise spices found in the wine.

Despite the wine’s easy-going drinkability, one glass is really enough.   Like most California Zinfandels, its alcohol content reaches to 14.7% and if one is not careful, he or she will feel the heat of this varietal quickly.

For dessert, there is no better use of the newly arriving seasonal peach than to include it in a peach pie.   Nothing quite says summer than a fresh peach pie and to diversify the traditional recipe, sliced almonds are used and a crumb top is created.  The crumb top included cinnamon and ground macadamia nuts, which are both ingredients typically not found in such a pie topping.

With a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream to finish the meal, a slice of pie is just the seasonal ticket for a warm late June or early July afternoon.

 

In the end, as summer holiday barbeques emerge on calendars nearly every weekend and seemingly at every turn, grab a bottle of your favorite Zinfandel to share.   Given the varietal’s long proven versatility, it is bound to pair with something by the grill no matter where you find yourself.

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Jun 23 2011

Coast Into Summer With Cabernet Franc

Temperatures warmed this past weekend in the Bay Area and back patio doors opened on Father’s Day to fittingly commence one of America’s greatest past times, barbequing.   Grills up and down my neighborhood block fired up and permeated the air with smoky aromas of charcoal and grilled meat.   Despite the warm sun, a cool breeze was present making the temperature cool enough to pour a red wine.  Tannic and heavy bodied red varietals that many people immediately reach for are too heavy, however, for sitting in the warm sun.   So what should one select?   Given that it was a Sunday afternoon and folks were kicking back, no varietal could have been more appropriate to supplement the weather and scene than that cool cat known as Cabernet Franc.

Cabernet Franc is commonly used as a blending varietal, but when it is a single varietal bottling, it is quickly becoming a go-to backyard barbeque wine, if not a party wine.  It often shows off its flavors at the front or mid-palate, its flavors are full and vivacious clearly indicating why vintners so often reach for it as a blending wine.

Blending wines should never be sneered at because they generally are added for a specific reason and usually it is because on their own they pack a significant punch.   Think about it.   If Petit Verdot were a varietal wimp, why would it be added only in one or two percent allotments in Cabernet Sauvignon blends?   Cabernet Franc, which so often grab a larger share of the blending percentile, on its own can often steal the show and leave you eagerly cheering for more and your palate in a wake of festive confetti.

Finding a single varietal bottle of Cabernet Franc is not as hard as one would think in Napa Valley.   Goosecross Cellars (“Goosecross”) has added a single varietal bottle to its offerings and the addition has been met with great public response.

Goosecross’ Cabernet Franc is made from several clones of the varietal grape and combines these from two distinct American Viticultural Areas (“AVA’s”):   Yountville AVA and Carneros AVA.   The grapes harvested from the Yountville AVA hail from Goosecross’ estate vineyard.   Yountville AVA is one of the more recently added AVA’s and despite of its relatively new status, it has been intuitive to many that an official AVA status was long overdue.   Similar to Stag’s Leap AVA, the Yountville AVA has rocky volcanic soil to the east yet distinctly has tremendous amounts of alluvial and sedimentary soil combined with loam and sand.   Add to the mix a climate naturally cooled by marine bay breezes that are caught by the Yountville Mounts and the grapes that grow in this area can often naturally maximize their flavor potential.    In this spirit, the Yountville AVA Cabernet Franc grapes bring bright, juicy fruit flavors.    As mentioned initially, the other portion of grapes are sourced from the cool Carneros AVA.   The Carneros AVA is known for even cooler temperatures due to its proximity to the bay and the grapes grown here characteristically add an elegant component to any wine that they are added to.

Pouring Goosecross’ Cabernet Franc into the glass, the nose is greeted immediately by lovely aromas of bing cherry.   On the palate, initially the mouth is slightly tart as if cherries were just picked from a tree.  Soon flavors of red plum, berry, mint and mocha evolve.   The wine rolls back across the palate as carefree as an early summer afternoon due to its purposeful soft tannins and with one sip, if you haven’t found a comfortable patio chair you will quickly.

With the grill ready to go, it is only fitting that this week’s menu host:

1)      Cherry-Herbed Hamburgers With Greens, Caramelized Spring Onions and Blue-Cheese Spread on an Whole Wheat English Muffin;

2)     Sweet Potato Fries Topped With Minced Fresh Marjoram; and

3)     Blanched Green Bean-Almond Salad With Herbed Balsamic Vinaigrette.

Plump some chopped dried cherries and add them to burgers for not just a simple, “wow” but for a “wow, wow and triple wow.”  Cherries are in season presently in Northern California and naturally pack big flavor.   Added to a burger with minced rosemary, chopped marjoram, worschetershire sauce and fresh cracked peppercorns, this is a burger for grown-ups.  A whole wheat English muffin is brushed lightly with butter before placing it upon a hot charcoal grill.   Once toasted on all sides, it is dressed with spreadable blue cheese and a bed of freshly picked spinach leaves.   The burger emerges from the grill to be placed on top and dressed with caramelized spring onions and seasonal sweet lettuces from the garden.  The incorporation of the whole wheat English muffin adds soft flavors that take on the flavors of the burger as if they were its own.  With one bite, you will not want to share.  When paired with the wine, the burger readily greets the cherry notes, spices and herbs suggestively bring the natural herbaceous characteristics out of the Cabernet Franc.

Sweet Potato Fries with Marjoram go wonderfully with the Cabernet Franc and when paired alongside, the fries actually become sweeter.

In some gardens, green beans are starting to be harvested.  Whether from the backyard or at the local produce stand, these vegetables pack personality and flavor when seasonal and freshly picked.  In theme with a simple menu, green beans are blanched, mixed with sliced almonds after cooling and tossed with herb-based balsamic vinaigrette.   Simple, yet full of flavor and moreover healthy for you and your dad on Father’s Day.  And when paired with the wine, the earthy flavor of blanched green beans goes great with Cabernet Franc.

This is a wine that pours itself and the only time that you will find your glass empty is when the bottle is, too.   As patio furniture is dragged outside and grills are started, coast into summer with ease and a glass of Cabernet Franc.

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