This growing season in Napa Valley has not been without its challenges.  Rain and cooler temperatures visited the valley early in the season and growers watched breathlessly hoping that “shatter” would not happen.   The summer then progressed far cooler than average.   Yields are less, yet flavors should be more concentrated without high sugar levels, high alcohol contents or off balance acidity.   While harvest is happening later this year in Napa Valley and many grapes have made it to their respective bins, growers and vintners are still hoping that later ripening varietals will continue to ripen and cross the finish line. 

Up until the last two days, Mother Nature was humoring Napa Valley and showering it with warm temperatures and plenty of autumn sunshine.  Rain typically does not arrive in Napa Valley until a month from now, so yesterday’s and today’s dropping temperatures and significant rainfall prompted a scramble and flurry of activity in the vineyards to hastening harvesting and avoid potential rot or other damage. 

When times such as these are anything but smooth, classic simplicity is a readily welcomed guest in any kitchen.

So often, when pairing wine with food, one’s imagination can run wild.   It does not necessarily have to happen in your kitchen, it happens constantly at restaurants.   You arrive at the table with a date or friends, eyes scan the menus rapidly and minds obsessively digest all of the creative creations listed.   One person is generally tasked with picking the wine:  which must attempt to pair a wine to match the whims of all seated at the table and of course that task likely is delivered with a certain pressured expectation that he or she will select something “great”.   Whew… We all know those scenarios.  Countless Cabernet Sauvignons have been ordered as a result in the hope of having a pairing “dare to be great” moment.  But what if you started with simply selecting the wine?   What if you simply selected something simple?   What if you picked something like Sauvignon Blanc?

Sauvignon Blanc recognizably is not a white wine known for its depth or complexity.  Typically graced by a flinty minerality, citrus flavor and readily recognizable acidity, this white wine varietal offers a unique dependability which is an asset if you find yourself in a clutch or if everything else surrounding you is hectic.  

Markham Vineyards (“Markham”) bottles a Sauvignon Blanc that stands up to this standard but also offers a terrific side benefit of affordability.   Pouring a glass of Markham’s Sauvignon Blanc offers delightful aromas of lime and lemon and the palate is greeted with delicious flavors of passion fruit, lemon and grapefruit flavors which are balanced by a classic minerality.  It is an easy sipper that can wile the hours away on a sun-drenched patio or at the end of a busier than anticipated day.

While Sauvignon Blanc easily pairs with spicy fare or fresh seafood, its acidity allows this varietal to pair well with tomatoes.   At this point in the Bay Area, tomato season is winding down and perhaps with this week’s suddenly unseasonable weather, tomatoes were rescued from garden vines. A classic simple tomato dish enjoyed by one and all is bruschetta but turn it into an easy fondue and comfort food abounds.   This week’s menu hosts:

• Heirloom Tomato Bruschetta Fondue With Sourdough Bread

If fondue seems like a production, try using a small crock pot.   If you make a fondue in a slow-cooker, it makes entertaining “hands-off” until it’s time to eat.    Similarly the slow cooking manner will help maintain consistency and texture in cheese.   If the crock itself is removable, then it can easily transport to a table for casual serving.

Here heirloom tomatoes are combined with white wine, garlic, onion, olive oil and basil to cover and submerge a ball of fresh mozzarella.   If allowed to simmer on low, a few hours later the lid is lifted to reveal an aromatic tomato-mozzarella fondue.

Slices of fresh sourdough bread are served alongside, destined to be topped with tomato goodness.

As predictable as imaginable, the acidity in Markham’s Sauvignon Blanc is softened instantly by taking a bite of the tomato bruschetta.    The softer tropical fruit flavors rush forward and meld with the white wine flavors in the bruschetta recipe.   The sweet tomato flavors dependably deliver that sensation and flavor of comfort food combined with the creamy milky flavor of fresh mozzarella.

So whether unseasonal weather throws a monkey wrench into your plans or unexpected developments pull you in several directions at once this autumn, never underestimate the reliability of wine and food pairing basics to satisfy your taste buds and those of your guests.

In the early weeks of autumn in the Bay Area, temperatures fluctuate as for much of the region summer-like temperatures can appear for several days in a row to be followed by cooler weather.   With typical yet periodic summer weather in late September, it is best for Bay Area residents to keep refreshing white wines chilled and within reach for impromptu back patio entertaining.

Pinot Grigio naturally has an easy-breezy sipping profile, characterized by notable acidity and depending on the vintner’s style (dry or slightly sweet), citrus or tropical flavors may be present.

Benessere Vineyards has long been recognized for its palate pleasing Pinot Grigio.   Older vintages have been characterized by more softer and sweeter tropical notes while the recently released vintage presently for sale in the winery’s tasting room is a dry style.   For those who still have an older vintage in his or her wine collection to enjoy, this article is suited for you.

Given that Pinot Grigio naturally has a higher acidity level, it again is a varietal that pairs well with tomatoes.  For those who are still growing sungold cherry tomatoes (those gorgeous little orange cherry tomatoes that burst with an almost sweet tomato lava in the mouth), use them in a recipe that pairs well with a softer and slightly sweeter Pinot Grigio.  This week’s menu hosts:

• Steamed Clams in Herbs, Garlic, Butter and White Wine atop Multigrain Angel Hair Pasta with Sungold Cherry Basil Pasta Sauce

Clams have a naturally sweet flavor and as such are naturally an excellent choice for pairing with Pinot Grigio.   When succulent steamed clams are placed atop a homemade pasta sauce involving sweet sungold cherry tomatoes, garlic, shallots and opal basil, the dish becomes deliciously sweet.

While regular angel hair pasta could be used, selecting a multigrain angel hair pasta adds a slight bit of depth to the dish.   Introducing Benessere’s Pinot Grigio is a welcome, gentle soft addition to this pairings flavor profile.   The round soft sweet tropical flavors meld intuitively with sweet flavors of sungold cherry tomatoes, clams, shallots, gentle herbs and comforting notes of garlic.

This is a simple easy going pairing meant for warm coastal September evenings in the fading sun as the ocean breeze brushes across your cheek as you slowly chew.  It is a meal that is designed to capture quintessential California lifestyle and simple mid-week entertaining as the pairing invokes sensations of comfort, casualness, warmth and that time pauses for life to be simply enjoyed.   It is simply good food and good wine being shared with good people, which is what the art of pairing is all about.

*Don’t forget to read this month’s new article on the site’s The SLO Vine and learn about another terrific wine from San Luis Obispo County, California!

As mentioned in last week’s article, heirloom tomatoes continue to dominate the local produce scene in the Bay Area.   In September, a late summer heat descends upon the Bay Area.  With warm sunshine, heirloom tomatoes of all varieties practically tumble off the vine, ready for enjoyment.

Recently I realized that I had yet to feature any pairings this summer with the classic garden ripened tomato and similarly, as I have contemplated a variety of heirloom tomato based recipes I realized that I had overlooked pairing Zinfandels, too. 

Zinfandel is the classic red grape varietal that finds its way most often to backyard patios and perfectly paired with nearly anything off the barbeque grill.   While Zinfandel can pair well with standard barbeque sauces and creative marinades, it also pairs well with tomatoes given the wine’s acidity level.    Rarely tannic, a Zinfandel wine is easy drinking for many and given its often big fruit-driven flavors it is an easy choice for food pairings.

During the summer of 2009, I featured a certain old vine zinfandel from Sonoma County on this site in an article titled, “Old Vines and Classic Times”.   The wine in question was offered at the time by Ledson Winery and Vineyards (“Ledson”), located in neighboring Sonoma County.   The wine, Ledson’s 2006 Amy’s Vineyard Russian River Valley Old Vine Zinfandel was delicious at the time with big round raspberry fruit flavors and delicious spice.  The vines that grow the grapes for this vintage are over 100 years old.   The wine itself was drinking beautifully in 2009 and in 2010, long after this vintage sold-out, the Wine Enthusiast awarded this wine 92 points to reflect the outstanding quality that was still being enjoyed.   In 2011, when I opened another bottle of this vintage, my palate was not disappointed.

Pouring into the glass, the same gorgeous deep jewel tone ruby colors dance.   The nose is greeted by voluptuous aromas of red raspberry and smoke while yielding a slight perfume of violets.   When the palate is finally allowed to explore this sensual beauty, it finds that this aging old vine zinfandel is smooth like silk with almost a silt-like texture that slips past.   Ripe round red fruit is easily enjoyed across the palate and it is clear that this wine boasts enough acidity to saddle up to tomatoes and is perfect for lazy warm Sunday afternoons with neighbors as the grill smokes away and tomatoes have been picked from a backyard vine for enjoyment.

To accentuate the flavor profile of the wine and its beautiful texture, this week’s heirloom tomato inspired menu boasts:

• Grilled Heirloom Tomato Open-Faced Sandwich on Grilled Sourdough Bread with Avocado, Pancetta, Blue Cheese and a Buttermilk Thyme Shallot Dressing

Sourdough bread is one of the many things that San Francisco is famous for.   The tangy flavor of the bread makes a well-suited festive match for the spices found in a Zinfandel.   The varietal’s spice profile is accentuated by this type of bread. 

Grilling heirloom tomatoes introduces a caramelized, smoky and rich flavor that nearly melts in your mouth.  When paired with the wine, the Zinfandel literally tumbles forth with wonderful ripe full flavors of red raspberry, roasted plums and smoky spice.

When starting with something as simple as fresh heirloom tomatoes and a visually simple open-faced sandwich can turn gourmet in the blink of an eye; it is easy to understand why pairing your wine varietals is of importance.   It becomes a dual opportunity to show off the grape’s best natural attributes and similarly the ingredients.   When both are paired perfectly, each helps the other to show off the best that it can be.

In this case, grilling heirloom tomatoes creates a delicious caramelized flavor akin to comfort food.  When these delicious tomatoes greet the bottle aged 2006 Amy’s Vineyard Russian River Valley Zinfandel, bright red fruit bursts forth from the wine.  It is like stumbling along a berry patch on a hike and feeding on the labors of the summer sun as you continue your September excursion.

September in Napa Valley marks the start of harvest.   Not all grapes are harvested at the same time as different varietals ripen at various stages.  Similarly, depending on where you are in Napa Valley, its varying geography and microclimates determine ripening.   Even those with backyard gardens are harvesting vegetables such as heirloom tomatoes.  

If one is lucky enough, he or she will grow several different types of heirloom tomatoes.   They vary in acidity and sweetness and representing a rainbow of colors, these delicious fruits are akin to a harvest fanfare in Northern California.

Given the acidity of tomatoes, wine pairing may initially seem daunting.   Yet, depending on the type of heirloom tomato selected and its specific blend of acidity, the possibilities for wine pairing are actually endless.   As heirloom tomatoes are presently seasonal here, for the next few weeks each featured article will demonstrate pairing versatility.

Since the 1980’s, Chardonnay has been California’s darling of white wine varietals.   Historically the grape has been exposed to oak barreling for prolonged periods such that the wine emerges heavily oaked and overly buttery.   In recent years Napa Valley vintners have been exploring different styles of making Chardonnay and venturing into the world of unoaked chardonnays which are an open true expression of the grapes flavor profile.   Yet some of the most elegant Chardonnays are those wines which are carefully barrel aged with some exposure to oak such that it appears as a kiss, a flutter or even a satin ribbon of expression on one’s palate.  

Bremer Family Winery (“Bremer”) located on Howell Mountain in Napa Valley demonstrates vintage after vintage its artful touch with making Chardonnay.  Bremer itself sits in an original stone winery and cellar which was built in 1891 into the side of Howell Mountain.   With such an intimate proximity to the soil in which many of the winery’s grapes are grown, it is no surprise that Bremer has a strong commitment to make wines that the owners not only love to drink but are a true expression of the land.   Opening a bottle of Bremer’s Chardonnay, it is clear that the winery has not compromised anything and you are about the reap the benefits.

The winery describes its Chardonnay as tropical but having enjoyed several vintages, each release I find distinct delicious rich round flavors of spiced fuji apple complemented by aromas of honeysuckle.   The chardonnay grape is nevertheless readily recognizable for its natural attributes but is given a glamorous edge with its oaken notes.   The wine’s oak profile is not overwhelming, but casually present to provide a subtle, yet sophisticated smooth notion that this should belong with a dinner that offers something special and unique.  As the wine crosses the palate, it offers an eloquent expression of fruit, spice and texture.   Bremer’s Chardonnay hints that the possibilities for the evening are endless and without a doubt, this perfectly balanced wine is one smooth operator.

Looking at a yet to ripen White Beauty Heirloom Tomato and a blushing Brandywine Heirloom Tomato, there sit a unique possibility of sugar and acidity to pair with this week’s wine:

• Fried Heirloom Tomatoes for Sophisticated Grown-Ups

Whether the tomatoes be green or firm red tomatoes (the red tomatoes adding color to a plate for serving and showing off to guests), frying tomatoes gives them a warm comfort food feel with a varied flavor profile of sweet to spicy.   Similarly using different types of heirloom tomatoes in a dish such as this will ensure depth in flavor profile as the tomatoes can be almost dessert-like or rich and robust.

First the tomato slices are coated in spiced buttermilk (Spanish paprika, cumin and fresh cracked black pepper) and then dredged in a mixture of polenta and flour.  This is an intentional spice profile to pair with Bremer’s Chardonnay.   Once fried, tomato slices are adorned in sweet microgreens, herbed chevré and dressed with a marjoram and lemon thyme vinaigrette.   While the vinaigrette is herb themed, other flavors such as shallot, red wine vinegar, black raspberry vinegar, Dijon mustard, garlic, ginger and lemon juice sit within to create a dynamic dressing.

Similarly, using freshly picked herbs from the garden are certain to charm with their incredible natural perfume.  Both marjoram and lemon thyme are aromatically romantic.  When the dish is paired with the wine, the creaminess of the herbed chevré reaches for the balanced richness of Bremer’s Chardonnay.  At the same time, the Chardonnay livens a bit with the herbs and spices of the dish.

Sharing a dish such as this with others is a wonderful seasonal precursor to a September evening meal. Without question, Bremer’s Chardonnay will sleekly transition from course to course and charm you as it goes.

As hot summer days begin to fade with the sun’s late rays, temperatures cool and it is easier to reach for those long-awaited red wines.   Red wine, often best known for its tannins and complexity, is something that just does not pair with hot intense rays of the sun.   When winter ends and warm spring afternoons appear, I almost immediately tuck away my red wines and welcome rosés and white wines to the table.   Yet with the end of Labor Day weekend and when the late afternoon breeze brushes past with that first hint of autumn chill, excitement buzzes for it is time for Cabernet Sauvignon to return.

In Napa Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon is king and that is largely due to the climate and terroir is so perfectly suited for growing this grape.   It is here in Napa Valley that the Cabernet Sauvignon grape can show tremendous diversity in how it shows from a bottling.   If you look at prior articles on this site featuring this varietal, you will find that the descriptions vary depending on the American Viticultural Area (“AVA”) where the grape is grown right down to the soil in the actual vineyard where the vine is planted.   With these factors in mind, this famed grape can mirror flavors of bing cherry, robust blackberry to mocha dust.   The possibilities are endless and with so many AVA’s to choose from in Napa Valley, one could spend a week here and leave with a formal education on Cabernet Sauvignon alone.

One AVA that I have not featured as prominently is the Yountville AVA.   Yountville is located north of Napa and south of the famed Rutherford Bench.   Its location is perhaps one of the most unique due to its soil as it is home to coastal soils that are centuries old, alluvial soil, gravelly loam, volcanic soil and clay.   The soil combinations are seemingly endless and when coupled with the areas naturally cool growing climate, this AVA has the potential to produce distinguished Cabernet Sauvignons which will age for some time on.

Chanticleer Vineyards (“Chanticleer”) is located on the western side of the Yountville appellation and its Morningside Vineyard is home to rocky soil.   With great estate grown Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, Chanticleer is primed to bottle a wonderful varietal and seals that fate with the talent of winemaker Chris Dearden.   Long a fan of Chris Dearden’s winemaking from his days at Benessere Vineyards, picking Chanticleer’s 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon was guaranteed to be a treat.    From time to time when you determine a certain winemaker’s style that fits your palate, you can find that he or she is making other wines under different labels or for other wineries.   Following their efforts at various wineries is an education in and of itself as it truly tests the winemaker’s abilities and style based on the grapes, the climate and soil that he or she is working with.

Familiar with Chris Dearden’s winemaking from up valley, sampling Chanticleer’s 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon gave me an added fun educational pursuit.    Beautifully balanced with refined tannins and a classically smooth texture, one sip and this wine was readily stamped with Chris Dearden’s talents.   Yet, as opposed to the plum, raspberry flavors of his prior bottling from up valley, the fruit here was dark brooding black fruit of blackberry, cassis and earthy notes.   The bouquet of this wine is equally rich with black raspberry, fennel and a slightly woodsy nod to rosemary if you allow your nose to linger long enough.  Also notable is that this Cabernet Sauvignon is not heavy or lumbering.   As a 2005, it conveys a simple yet not understated elegance which translates into a quiet masculinity which will hold its place at the dining table.

Without question, this wine is the classic steak and mushroom type of wine.   As Labor Day was this past weekend, I wanted to create something which would be casual yet creative and still give a seasonal nod to California cuisine.   As such, this week’s menu holds:

• Open-faced Grilled Steak & Morbier Sandwich Basted With Cherry-Rosemary-Herb Barbeque Sauce

Creating a grilled sandwich such as this invites a delicious medley of flavors which are appropriate for welcoming the arrival of September.  Using a charcoal grill with the steak infuses a smoky flavor and the basting sauce is a reduction of cherry preserves, balsamic vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, minced fresh rosemary and marjoram from the garden and crushed anise seed.    Sweet onions are sautéed with thinly sliced mushrooms.   Using garlic ciabatta bread from a neighboring bakery, it is brushed with butter before being placed atop the grill to cook face down.  Once flipped right side up, slices of Morbier cheese are placed on top to melt.

Once the steak has rested a bit, it is gently and thinly sliced to be placed on top of the sandwich halves and given a final brush of the Cherry-Rosemary-Herb Barbeque Sauce.

Taking a bite with the wine encourages full blackberry, fennel and herb flavors in the Chanticleer 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon to burst forward with a clear mission to dance across your palate as you dine.   The combination of cherry, rosemary and marjoram in the barbeque sauce is a truly romantic medley.   Cherries offer sweetness, the rosemary adds a woodsy character and marjoram naturally perfumes the sauce with its slightly floral and herbaceous attributes.   Fennel and rosemary come forward notably in the wine and you feel as though you have stumbled upon someone’s backyard barbeque in the wooded hills of Yountville.

Choosing to use Morbier cheese is intentional in order to provide depth and rustic flavor with its farmhouse style of cheese.   These characteristics are a ready match for Cabernet Sauvignon.  Similarly, having selected to use a garlic ciabatta, the bread will invoke a rustic sense as the garlic adds a warm comforting sensation and the bread itself will take on the flavors of all of the ingredients sitting above.  

Parked next to the charcoal grill with growing fragrant rosemary nearby, it no longer seems like autumn is such a bad thing.  Each sip of Chanticleer’s 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon is slowly enjoyed and thoughts roam to “why can’t September be savory?”  As the fading days of summer slip into the horizon, the possibilities of upcoming autumn seem endless.