To some there is nothing better than a good glass of Cabernet Sauvignon.  When that wine glass holds an exceptionally good Cabernet Sauvignon, little can hold a candle to it.  Cabernet Sauvignon lovers almost intuitively know that when an aged quality Cabernet Sauvignon is poured, any food pairing will be somewhat straight-forward.   Reason being, these connoisseurs simply want this varietal to show off all of its complexity, structure, fruit, spice and finish.

Cabernet Sauvignon wines in general are a big wine and they command not only the palate’s attention but the rest of one’s senses as well.   If you are a Cabernet Sauvignon aficionado and truly want to find some of the biggest wines this varietal can produce, venture up to Howell Mountain in Napa Valley and prepare to discover a component of command in your wine.

Bremer Family Winery (“Bremer”) is located on Howell Mountain on Deer Park Road and housed in a beautiful stone winery originally built in 1891.   Beautiful trees adorn this mountain side property along with a creek and grapevines glisten in the sun.  Wines crafted at Bremer embody quality and those offered which are produced from estate grapes will offer big bold distinct personalities.  This week’s featured wine is Bremer’s 2004 Cimarossa Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (presently not for sale, however, you can find the 2005 vintage available through the winery).

Sitting in the glass, the wine’s dark garnet color foreshadows the power that lurks in the glass.   Aromas of anise or licorice, toffee, vanilla, raspberry and black cherry waft coyly upwards.   Venturing further, the palate commences its discovery as the wine is soft at the front yet is introduced to undeniably present tannins.   As the glass lowers to the table, the palate is still contemplating the definitive structure of the wine while strong legs run down the sides of the glass.   A medley of flavors linger in the mouth ranging from black currant, ginger, mushroom, vanilla, anise, plum, raspberry and cherry.  Due to its complexity, this is a wine that you will want to cozy up to and enjoy as days grow shorter and evenings grow colder.  With merely a sip of Bremer’s 2004 Cimarossa Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, it is evident that this wine begs for a traditional steak pairing.

While steak pairings may seem predictable with Cabernet Sauvignon, the manner in which the steak is prepared determines how closely destined it is with the selected paired wine.  In the case of Bremer’s 2004 Cimarossa Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, the steak should be prepared on a charcoal grill, slowly and with nothing more than a little season salt.

My father has long been the master of taking a petite sirloin steak and putting it on a charcoal grill to allow it to slowly cook with nothing more than a scant bit of seasoning salt to dress it.  He is commonly spotted sitting on the deck with a book and a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon.   While he may be lost in his book, the steak slowly cooks and is left to its own devices.  The grill is covered to retain moisture and flavor in the steak and the result emerges juicy and best served thinly sliced.

Any vegetable medley could accompany steak prepared like this.   This week, however, my dad’s style of steak is best, easily and seasonally served over a bed of zucchini, red bell peppers and caramelized sweet onions.

Medallions of zucchini tossed in olive oil and minced rosemary are grilled on the stove’s range.   Thin slices of red bell pepper are slowly sautéed and at the last minute a dash of balsamic vinegar is introduced to caramelize.   Thin slices of sweet onion are combined with butter before being left to its own devices to slowly caramelize.

While this combination may initially appear simple, when combined with a Cabernet Sauvignon such as this week’s featured wine, all involved becomes richer and more decadent flavor-wise.

Taken with the food, the wine opens and rich flavors of fruit and spice emerge as if it too spent some quality time slow cooking on a smoky grill.    By using some minced rosemary with the zucchini, the meal has an herbaceous character (which is not found in the wine).

You may wonder why we caramelize onions or add a dash of balsamic vinegar to the red bell peppers.  By electing to caramelize certain foods, it adds a dash of sweetness that traditional granulated sugar cannot match.   It also adds a different component to the flavor profile which translates to depth.

Thanksgiving looms and on that day your kitchen will be taken over by a conundrum of cooking.  Here is a simple way to show prowess and command before anyone else arrives to scrutinize.   Take ownership of the grill one last time this year and trust the simplicity of basic food and wine pairing to show culinary command to those who immediately surround you.   They may become your most loyal allies when Thanksgiving preparations descend upon your kitchen.

November is always an interesting month as seemingly each person handles it differently.   Some people commence their holiday shopping in a flurry while others coordinate with extended family members to begin celebrating Thanksgiving early in the months in order to rotate homes for dinner by the actual holiday.   For those who garden, in early November in Northern California backyard gardens are scant with vegetables, yet robust with herbs.  Surveying the last of the plants, the final remaining produce is picked in hopes of avoiding frost laden mornings that often arrive with little forewarning. 

While cleaning out a backyard garden in November may be bittersweet, the reward at the end of the day is creatively combining the produce that you harvest into a meal that renders a complete sense of sustainability.

Continuing with a theme of using that which one has, this week a Zinfandel is pulled from the cellar:  Ledson Vineyard’s 2005 Russian River Valley Baldocci Zinfandel.   Rich dark coloring, the wine offers rich aromas of black raspberry and roasted fennel.  Typical of Zinfandel, a distinct acidity crosses the palate carrying with it flavors of plum and black raspberry.   While the wine is not overly complex, an inviting aroma of tobacco develops as the wine glides across the palate.

Because Zinfandel has the potential for a nice acidity, it frequently pairs well with barbeque or vegetables and tomatoes from the garden.   This week’s menu thus hosts:

• Grilled Lemon Thyme Pepper Chicken and Vegetable Stuffed Red Bell Pepper.

Delicious garden-fresh flavors find its way into sweet red bell peppers.   Chopped broccoli is combined with minced spring onion, oregano and ricotta to fill the pepper halves.  Topping the peppers is a combination of grated carrots, zucchini, parmesan and lemon thyme.  To garnish the dish and add some height, minced bits of Mr. Stripey heirloom tomatoes are added.

While the pepper is roasting in the oven, on the grill sits a chicken breast seasoned simply with seasoning salt, cracked black pepper and lemon thyme.

If you are growing herbs, some may be flowering or going to seed.   Here flowers from lemon thyme add beauty to a quick garnish that reflects certain ingredients in the dish.

A bite of the red bell pepper silences the acidity in the Zinfandel immediately which permits the fruit flavors to become bigger.  If you follow immediately with a bite of grilled chicken and it is as if suddenly the poultry is dressed with a black raspberry chutney.   The herbs used on the chicken and in the stuffed pepper reach to reveal a greater flavor of fennel in the wine, too.   Analyzing the ingredients closer in connection with the wine, by using ricotta cheese, it causes the Zinfandel to grow increasingly “jammy” in the mouth.   Similarly the broccoli has a certain earthiness naturally which in turn connects directly to the fennel flavors in the wine and accentuates tobacco and cedar aromas during the meal.

While last week’s article reflected a way to use leftovers from the fridge or freezer, this week’s article shows a way to creatively combine produce that may still be harvested from the garden.   It is a terrific way to not only be creative but to appreciate that which you have immediately available and the seemingly infinite bounty that you can create.

Earlier this fall, a friend was chatting with me about upcoming food pairings and how I create my recipes.   With an article appearing weekly, if there are not others around the table to partake in the featured pairing leftovers are packaged and headed to the freezer.  The image of the contents of my freezer could make any reader’s imagination run wild.  Nevertheless, my friend mentioned that this actually is a valid topic because the average individual or family during the week often does not have time to cook from scratch despite the best intentions.   Regardless, for most of us, leftovers are a regular component of any weekly menu and often in a comforting way.

Similarly, this past weekend brought an early snowstorm to the Northeast.   While Northern California continued to enjoy lingering days of beach weather and 70 degree temperatures, its turn for early winter weather will arrive at the end of this week, too.   Whether you find yourself with cold temperatures, snow or rain, it is no surprise that comfort food and red wine sound good in November.

When Mother Nature catches you off guard this fall, a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon will heartily pair with most comfort cuisine that you create.   Cabernet Sauvignon with its tannins typically pairs well with beef and cheeses.   With its more complex flavor profile of fruit, spice and herbs it similarly pairs well with mushrooms.   Some Cabernet Sauvignon wines are more involved than others and some simply sip well at the end of an evening while relaxing in your recliner. 

Goosecross Cellars (“Goosecross”) located in Yountville is a family winery that presently offers an estate Cabernet Sauvignon.   Even better, Goosecross’ current release is a 2007 vintage.  The year 2007 in Napa Valley was a year with ideal growing conditions for vintners and the grape vines rewarded winemakers with perfect small berries naturally reflecting mirroring perfect balance.   So often wineries rush to release wines and it is a treasure to find a 2007 vintage Cabernet Sauvignon for sale now.

Opening Goosecross’ 2007 State Lane Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (“State Lane Cabernet Sauvignon”) the nose is greeted by a lovely showing of Yountville fruit.   Aromas of black cherry, plum, raspberry and toasty oak drift welcomingly up from the wine glass.  While the wine is 100% estate grown fruit, 91% of that fruit is Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% is Cabernet Franc.   Three different clones of Cabernet Sauvignon were used and two clones of Cabernet Franc were used.   Combined together, the wine has a delicious flavor profile with black cherry, mocha, anise and plum.   Just when you think that the wine has finished, there is quiet soft pleasant finale of candied cherry that renders a comforting feel to the wine.

This week to welcome the start of November the food pairing is intended to utilize comfort food.  However, in recognition of the conversation that I had earlier this fall with my friend, I thought that it would be an opportune time to make use of some savory leftovers in the fridge, the freezer and use some ingredients from the pantry.   This week’s menu hosts an appetizer designed for casual entertaining or to accompany a weekly viewing of football:

• Mashed Potato Tater-Tot For Grown-ups dressed with Crumbled Meatloaf and Red Wine Mushroom Gravy

Did anyone ever tell you that you could not or should not play with your food?   Thumb your nose at them now as the below culinary creativity in the world of casual entertaining pays off in dividends.

With leftover garlic mashed potatoes sitting in the refrigerator, it seemed only natural that they should be introduced to some grated fontina cheese and freshly clipped chives from the backyard.   Rounds are dusted lightly in flour, dipped in egg, rolled in panko breadcrumbs and gently fried to create small creamy potato cakes.

Next, meatloaf from the freezer is defrosted to be warmed and browned in a sauté pan.  The meatloaf, however, is not any ordinary meatloaf as it is from one of my former articles on this site in which the meatloaf involved sun-dried tomatoes, bacon, jack cheese, and sourdough bread, among other gourmet ingredients.  The meatloaf in the pan is crumbed such that one slice can be sprinkled over the top of the potato cakes.   Red wine mushroom gravy with lemon thyme from the garden is created to add on top as well.  Finally, chives from the garden are clipped and sprinkled on the plate.

The result is savory, fragrant, comforting, creative, casual and crafty.   Pairing with Goosecross’ 2007 State Lane Cabernet Sauvignon is a ready invitation to sit back, relax, nibble and savor all that comfort food and Cabernet Sauvignon naturally offers.

Whether you show off at work bringing something like this to lunch or invite your close buddies over to partake on some weekday evening, there are always creative ways to culinary entertain:  be they on the pantry shelf, in Tupperware in the fridge, or packed safely away in the freezer awaiting a chilly rainy day.   Just play with your food and be amazed at what you can create!

In the Bay Area, it is no secret that some of its warmest weather can arrive in October but when it arrives at the tail-end of the month, it is unexpected.   The days are increasingly shorter with the sun setting earlier each evening.  Nevertheless, when temperatures soar it takes little encouragement to leave an office early, wrap up obligations sooner and hustle outside to enjoy those last warm rays before rainy season.  

Similarly, in Napa Valley, 2011 has been a challenging growing season.  Harvest has been delayed at many wineries or at the very least, days for crushing are sporadic and drawn out.   Fighting early rain, humidity, sudden chilly temperatures and then a burst of hot days, the grapes of Napa Valley are giving it their final push to cross the harvest finish line.   If you happened to be driving through the valley on Monday, winery after winery posted signs along the road, “Crushing today!”  Never has an exclamation point been used so appropriately to reflect Napa Valley’s harvest sentiment:  enthusiasm, relief, invitation and joy.

Benessere Vineyards (“Benessere”), located in St. Helena, has long been known for its consistency in its winemaking and the quality of the grapes that it selects to make its wines.   Over a week ago I was visiting the winery and grapes hung readily from the vines.  These beauties were continuing to ripen and develop even though in the past harvest would have completed.  Members of the wine industry community held their breath and with a sudden burst of heat this past weekend, grapes were being picked and crushed on the crush pad behind the winery on Monday.

The cement was slick and sticky with grape juice, an errant grape landing here or there and shiny green stems piling up in a nearby bin.   With a taste of an estate Merlot grape, the juice was gently sweet and it was clear that harvest was worth the wait.

After the crushed grapes find its way to Benessere’s tanks, not all of that juice is destined to make the winery’s well-regarded red wines.   After twelve to eighteen hours of skin contact and prior to commencing fermentation, a small amount of juice is drained from various tanks.  The purpose of this is two-fold:  it will allow the wine to develop a deeper color and complexity and it can also be made into a delicious rosato wine.

In 2010, lightly colored drawn-off juice, consisting of 49% Zinfandel, 41% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot, was fermented separately in stainless steel to become Benessere’s Rosato.   While the Rosato is typical with its rosy blush, readily recognizable fruit profile and light acidity, the 2010 vintage is distinct in that it is slightly drier than prior vintages and more representative of the styles enjoyed in France and Italy today.   It is this drier style that is exceedingly refreshing on an unexpected warm day and encourages the carefree spirit that perhaps nudged you out of our office a few hours early.

Growing up in Southern California, it was not uncommon to see a rosy blush wine such as a Rosato on a back patio table when family, neighbors or friends would drop by to visit.   Similarly in the 1970’s, entertaining existed in the style of quickly combining ingredients that were growing in the backyard, seasonal or simply on hand.  My parents had a simple recipe for “California Sandwiches” which used whole wheat English muffins, bacon, sharp cheddar cheese, tomato and avocado.

While the combination sounds simple, when the ingredients combine the smells thereof trigger memories of my dad being tasked with the cheese grater and later mashing avocados from a neighbor’s tree, my mom frying bacon and family guests casually sipping at Rosado without a care in the world and no hurry ahead.   Whether it was a quiet Sunday evening as the sun slowly sank in the distance behind the might Pacific, a late Tuesday night when someone was too tired to cook or in someone else’s kitchen across the country . . . it was not about whether this was the “best”, it was about the simple combination of flavors that creatively livened the palate and inspired conversation.   It was about enjoying the people with you in that moment and enjoying that which the moment brought to you.

Today this combination of ingredients may perhaps seem “mainstream”.  However, in the 1970’s, this was true Southern California fare.  It offered a degree of healthiness, fresh local (if not backyard) ingredients and a sense of sustainability using what you had on the pantry shelf.  If we found ourselves elsewhere, friends would find such a combination creative and to a young “me”, the cheddar melted the same through every oven window.  Yet no matter where we were, I sensed that our California lifestyle was there, too.

This week, in honor of the unexpected hustle and bustle of harvest and the sudden bursts of warm weather in the Bay Area, pulling a bottle of Benessere’s Rosato is almost celebratory.  Its casual and carefree nature fits into any dining scenario and is a welcomed addition to any wine rack.  It pairs well with beef, bacon, cheddar cheese and grilled vegetables.   Pairing with my parents’ “California Sandwiches” is like a soul mate as its acidity is balanced by the tomato in the sandwich, the riper strawberry notes become fuller with bacon and the cheddar cheese almost encourage bits of herb on the palate.   Avocado is gently mashed with some Meyer lemon and seasoning salt and a baked whole wheat English muffin absorbs the flavors of the other remaining ingredients.   On the side is a serving of sweet potato fries sprinkled with herbs from the garden.   It is a meal that is simple, casual and readily enjoyable.

Each wine should be enjoyed on its merits.   Not all wines are created equal, but not every wine should require being paired with lobster or filet mignon.   This is the beauty of California wine.  It is made and embraced with the intention that it will uniquely find its matching cuisine.   With all of the various produce and nuts being grown in California, the possibilities are endless and there is room for all.

For those who love sparkling wine, they know best that no matter the time, the meal or the event that life is simply better with Bubbles.  It matters not how extravagant the pairing (or to the contrary, how mundane), when paired with a glass of sparkling wine there is an added dash of festivity and even the most casual affair feels celebratory.

Depending on the type of bottle of sparkling wine selected (and depending on its winemaker), however, does tend to drive what should be paired alongside such personable Bubbles.   An earlier article on this site (“Break out the Bubbles for Bud Break”) went into great detail regarding the level of sugar found in sparkling wine and how that determines the wine’s classification.  “Extra dry”, which contains 1.2 to 2 percent sugar, is slightly sweeter than many mainstream sparkling wines found yet is not sweet enough to fall into the “demi-sec” category to indicate a more traditional dessert style sparkling wine.  As sugar increases in sparkling wine, it pairs exceptionally well with spicy cuisine as well as fresh fruit desserts.  

Presently pears of all types are in abundance at produce stands and farmer’s markets in Northern California.  Similarly apples are arriving and stone fruit is continuing to be available this year.  Menus in restaurants are also incorporating fruit in creative salad combinations and main dishes.  While those combinations delight the palate, nothing compares to the long-awaited incorporation of pear or fresh apple into a dessert with spices such as cinnamon and nutmeg.

Mouth watering already, a bottle of Domaine Chandon’s (“Chandon”) Extra Dry Riche is chilled and fresh pears and apples are set aside to ripen a bit more over the course of the afternoon.   Once the sparkling is chilled, a glass of Chandon’s Extra Dry Riche is poured.   Tiny bubbles rush to the top and beautiful floral aromas of honeysuckle perfume beneath your nose.   With one sip, delicious deep notes of honeyed apricot and peach burst forward with a bit of white nectarine and a slight twist of tangerine on the finish.  The wine’s texture is soft and velvety and the medley of sweet and ripe fruit flavors in the wine complement nicely.

A sip of this wine lends the imagination towards a path of opulence, yet the wine itself is quite affordable and I found it in my local grocery store on a whim when I wanted to randomly expand my collection of sparkling wine.   Given its affordability, it makes it guiltless to pair this bottle of sparkling wine with simpler pairings or in this case, dessert.  As such, this week’s menu holds:

• Puff Pastry Tarts of Pear, Almond and Cranberry with Honey; and Apple, Pecan and Cranberry with Honeyed Crème Fraiche.

Dessert may not be made on a mere dime, but if pre-made puff pastry happens to be sitting in your freezer, then dessert might be made on a couple of dollars.   As noted, pears are in abundance at produce stands.  If you are not fortunate enough to have a neighbor with a tree, pull off at a produce stand and see what the price presently is on pears.   Depending on the type, you might be able to get a deal on 3 pounds for $1.00 or 2 pounds for $1.00.   Either way, that’s affordable to me.   Apples at produce stands will be a better deal than at the grocery store (and they will be far more flavorful).   Even if they have a few blemishes or nicks on the skin, the apples can be peeled if need be and regardless, they will be baked or heated on a range.   Nuts are grown throughout California and it is natural to have pecans or almonds on the pantry shelf.   Pull out some baking spices and soon you are making combinations with fresh autumn seasonal fruit that will soon have you wistfully looking for changing leaves.

Cranberries pair wonderfully with pears.   If you do not have fresh, dried cranberries can be used in fruit tarts such as these as the cranberries are merely plumped in warm water first before being chopped and heated.   If you heat the cranberries separately, the color will not bleed into the pristine pears or apples.

Combining pear, cranberry, baked almond slices, honey, nutmeg and cinnamon with puff pastry is as rich as it sounds.   Natural sugars combine with a hint of acidity from the cranberry and honey draws the flavors directly into the envelopment of light buttery puff pastry.

Next, put together apple, pecan, cranberry, nutmeg, sugar, cinnamon with a honeyed crème fraiche and enjoy.

Using honey in each recipe brings a pleasant balanced sweetness as opposed to the traditional granulated sugar.   It offers a deeper flavor that naturally reaches to the flavors found in the sparkling wine. 

When dessert such as this is paired with Chandon’s Extra Dry Riche sparkling wine, opulence abounds.   Flavors are balanced overall and the integrity of this style of sparkling wine is well maintained as only a hint of sweetness is found in each of the two desserts.   Having used fruit that is seasonal and ingredients found within an arm’s reach in your own kitchen, one cannot help but feel rich with sustainability and that is worth celebrating any day.