Jul 01 2009

Free Your Taste Buds: Discover Cabernet Franc

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As the 4th of July approaches, there is a spirit of independence and celebration in the air in Napa Valley.   The first sense of freedom came when our heat wave broke on Monday evening, which sent the triple digit temperatures of the weekend packing.    As Napa Valley residents seem to breathe a collective sigh relief, the easy going evening coastal breezes have returned and the mood is intuitively set for relaxation and celebration of the upcoming holiday.    Barbeques and picnics typically accompany any holiday in California.    Reflecting on some of the colorful personalities that I have met in the wine industry, I chuckle and recall some of the “cowboys” in Napa Valley who boast of rebelliously barbequing in the rain, tell tales that their El Dorado will go 90 mph on a “good day” and are always staunch advocates of Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Mourvedre or other non-traditional wines.  Given the festive spirit of this week, it is only fitting to expand your wine knowledge, to liberate your palate and to find some independence with Cabernet Franc.

Cabernet Franc is a grape that originally hails from France’s Loire Valley and is used to make red wines.   Cabernet Franc is most commonly known as a “blending grape”.   A “blending grape” is a grape that winemakers add to a wine (such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Meritage blends, etc.) to help the predominantly featured grape fill in across the middle of the palate.    Some grapes will provide more flavors on the front of the palate, the middle of the palate or on the back of the palate.   When the grape provides more flavor on the back of the palate, the wine is commonly touted to produce a “nice big lingering finish” (which you often hear folks speak of with Cabernet Sauvignon).    Cabernet Franc is not going to provide that nice big lingering “finish”.    Instead, if it is a very well-made Cabernet Franc, it is going to slowly fade off the palate and leave you wanting “more”.     Cabernet Franc when made into a wine by itself is a difficult wine to find made well.   But when you do find one made well, it is not only an exciting surprise but it enlivens your senses and sparks your creativity.   

“This is like a party in my mouth!”

My pick for this week is Markham’s Cabernet Franc because it accomplishes exactly that.    Not only that, I have taken several novice wine tasting connoisseurs to taste this particular Cabernet Franc and repeatedly each individual has been impressed.    When you have a friend take a sip and suddenly exclaim, “This is like a party in my mouth,” you know that you have found the perfect summer Cabernet Franc to accompany your barbeques, picnics and other festive celebrations.

“So what are we going to find with this wine?”

On the nose, I find inviting big aromas of anise, black licorice, bing cherry, accompanied by seductive aromas of leather and a hint of tobacco.

“How should this Cabernet Franc taste?”

This Cabernet Franc has a nice supple body (meaning it is not “flimsy” or “flabby” on your palate), which is something that Cabernet Franc must strive to accomplish and does not always achieve.   This Cabernet Franc by all means accomplishes this goal and then some.     On the tip of the tongue there is the taste of bing cherry and spices.   The spices are not overpowering but rather set forth just enough flavor to continue enticing your palate’s attention.

But here is the unique identifier to this wine (aside from the taste):   it coasts across the palate.  That is right, does not roll, it coasts:  smooth, relaxed, yet with enough presence that you are never unaware that it is there.   On the palate it is adeptly characterized as quickly flirting with the front, smoothly coasting across the middle and slowly fading at the back like a classic distinguished roadster disappearing into the horizon.   Resembling bing cherries, it has a dark ruby jewel tone color and the early evening sun dances and sparkles off of the wine, setting forth a festive, fun appearance.   The finish is soft, subtle and leaves you wishing that there was more in your glass.  Overall, this Cabernet Franc is easy going, very approachable and exactly the type of guest that you want to invite to every summer festive affair.

“But what do we pair with it?”

There are many food options that can accompany Cabernet Franc and in the spirit of celebration, I decided to put together a great picnic in honor of Independence Day:   

1)      Fontal (or Fontina) Cheese with Sourdough Baguette;

2)     Roasted spiced miniature yellow potato salad with green beans and onions;

3)     Classic Cheeseburger with Bread and Butter Pickles; and

4)     Home-made Fresh Bing Cherry Pie.

To start preparation, the day before, I made home-made bread and butter pickles using fresh seasonal cucumbers, spices and onion.    The pickles only needed one night of refrigeration before being ready to consume.

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Since I would be grilling cheeseburgers for the meal, I decided to start the meal with a Fontal Cheese with slices of Sourdough Baguette.   Fontal is an Italian table cheese with soft nuances of nuts and a smooth mild creamy taste.    The flavor of this cheese is important because it is mild and does not overpower the Cabernet Franc, thereby allowing the spices in the wine to show through.    The sourdough baguette is a nice compliment to the cherry notes found in the wine.     

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Deciding to create an alternative to the classic potato salad, I elected to use my overwhelming harvest of green beans fresh from my garden.   Recalling that the Cabernet Franc is not an overpowering wine, I was careful in my selection of spices and took the time to visit the herbs in my garden, smell them and create a perfectly balanced semi-sweet mixture (including Thai basil, thyme, chives and another secret mild spice).    Coating the potatoes in the spices with a bit of olive oil they were then set to roast in the oven.    Next, I quickly blanched the green beans. To finish, once the potatoes and the green beans were cool, I mixed both together and added sliced raw spring onions with some sautéed garlic.     Because the spices in the potatoes are slightly sweet, they lock hand and hand with the wine and with commitment traverse together across the palate.   

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Beef goes so, so, so well with Cabernet Franc.    While steak normally commands the presence of a Cabernet Sauvignon, milder meats such as burgers beg innately for a good Cabernet Franc.     To dress up my cheeseburger, I have used a honey whole wheat bun, a mild cheddar (again, not to overpower the Cabernet Franc), fresh tomato and lettuce from my garden, some champagne shallot mustard and the bread and butter pickles that I made the night before.    The bread and butter pickles provide a festive zip to an otherwise traditional burger.   Due to their mildly sweet and spicy flavor, they also do not overpower the wine but again playfully challenge the spices found in this Cabernet Franc.   

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But wait, there’s more…  I decided to make a home-made bing cherry pie.    This Cabernet Franc is loaded with bing cherry flavors and bing cherries are still in season (I obtained mine from a local fresh produce stand for only $1.99 a pound).      And remember how I said that the finish on the Cabernet Franc smoothly coasts into the horizon and does not have a big lingering finish?    What would be a better way to finish off a perfectly paired meal than with this sweet little firecracker?    

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The result is a perfectly planned festive picnic or barbeque that is certain to delight anyone’s palate.   

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So while Cabernet Franc is indeed the wine of many a wine industry “cowboy”, it can be your own Independence Day wine.     Whether mothers allow their sons to grow up to be cowboys may still be up for debate, but an excellent festive Cabernet Franc is not.   And with a great one like Markham’s, it is easy to see why.  

*Wondering about where I am wine tasting and when?    Become a fan of The Casual Connoisseur on Facebook to find out and also learn about impromptu easy wine and food pairings.   Also, this week on the web site, check out the much requested début of The Casual Canine.  

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Jun 24 2009

Summertime “Good Libations”

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The mild cooler days of June are seemingly gone this week as our temperatures here in Napa Valley have quickly climbed into the 80’s and might well hit 90 degrees by the end of the week.   As the temperature increases, people are spending longer hours out in their backyards in the evening.    Perhaps you are gathering with friends or family.    This is the perfect weather to entertain, and with entertaining always come appetizers.    

In my backyard, I am sitting on the patio with the warm summer rays on my skin and a light coastal breeze in my hair.  The Beach Boys are playing over the stereo and those warm summer good feelings are all around.    As I look about the garden, I am determining what I can use to create some appetizers that are seasonal and perfect for casual entertaining.    And of course, I am summer dreamin’ about what “Good Libations” I can pair with what I serve.

Naturally I have the usual suspects among the white wine choices:    Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio.   But what if I wanted to save these dinner table regulars to pair with my main entrée?   What would I serve instead?    My suggestion may surprise you, but white grape based dessert wines (“Dessert Wines”) are a wonderful accompaniment to appetizers.   

But shouldn’t Dessert Wines only be served with dessert?  After all, they are referred to as Dessert Wines.  

That, in my opinion, is a misperception.   Dessert Wines can also be used as an “aperitif” (meaning, an alcoholic drink taken before a meal as an appetizer).      For example, last summer, I would come home from a long day of work, set my lounge chair and side table in the last fading rays of the evening sun, arrange a small plate of macadamia and cashew nuts, sliced nectarine with some mild cheese, pour a glass of Benessere’s Frizzante (their dessert wine), and nibble away… letting the stress and tribulations of the day ebb away as the sun sank into the Western horizon.   Benessere’s Frizzante is made from the grape muscat canelli or “muscato di canelli” (as it is known in Italy), which is one of the oldest grapes known to winemaking and recognized for the sweet bouquet that it produces.  Benessere’s Frizzante, while categorized as a Dessert Wine, does not overwhelm your palate with sugar.  Instead it refreshingly greets you with citrus notes and bright fruit flavors such as melon, cantaloupe and a hint of peach.   The wine is light and well-balanced and washes pleasantly across the palate.   It is a perfect prelude to your dinner on a summer evening.

Remember your parents telling you that you could not have dessert before dinner?    Those days are now guiltlessly over by using Dessert Wines as an aperitif to dinner.  

Looking at what I have from my own backyard and a nearby produce stand, I have decided to create three simple straight-forward seasonal appetizers which boast rich flavor without much manipulation or effort from me:  

  • Grilled Zucchini topped with home-made bruschetta and freshly grated parmesan cheese;
  • Cucumber slices topped with a home-made green onion dill spread and fresh vegetables; and
  • Grilled Fruit Skewers (consisting of nectarine, white nectarine and plum).

Putting these together, I already know that Benessere’s Frizzante will pair effortlessly.   But despite my casual nature, I think that my audience is ready to accelerate its knowledge of Dessert Wines from the classic muscat canelli grapes to the introduction of a different grape:   Gewürztraminer.    Gewürztraminer is another white wine grape that can be very aromatic on the nose and boast flavors of passion fruit and spice.    When turned into a Dessert Wine, however, this wine does not disappoint.    Over the hill, in Sonoma, the Mayo Family Winery produces an outstanding Late Harvest Gewürztraminer (which I recommend for any connoisseur’s collection).    The Late Harvest Gewürztraminer presents big aromas of ripe peaches on the nose.    And instead of a sugary, syrupy sensation (as sometimes found with other Dessert Wines), this Dessert Wine presents a tease of spice and feels like honey cascading across the palate.   Moreover, this wine’s alcohol content is also very low, coming in at ten percent (10%).  

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Of the simple appetizers that I put together, the grilled zucchini topped with bruschetta and freshly grated parmesan was the most pleasant surprise.    While making my bruschetta, I elected to use spring onions and sliced garlic.   Spring onions are naturally very sweet.  Since I sautéed the garlic first, it also became sweet in flavor.     Using ripe roma tomatoes and fresh basil from the garden, the bruschetta topping was a nice compliment to the Late Harvest Gewürztraminer.    Similarly, the cucumber slices appetizer that I prepared adds a bit of spice and tanginess which offsets the mild sweetness found in the wine.   Finally, pairing the grilled fruit skewers with the Late Harvest Gewurztraminer does not require much imagination.  As the fruit sits on a hot grill, the juices naturally caramelize thereby heating the fruit and providing a delightfully sweet finish to your aperitif before dinner begins.

Still want another challenge in the world of aperitifs?   Let’s think about Chenin Blanc.    Chenin Blanc is a white grape that dances the line between being paired with an actual meal versus being considered a Dessert Wine.   In the 1970’s it was hip to drink Chenin Blanc and the wine had a noticeable presence in Napa Valley.    Then, at some point in the 1980’s, it became unpopular and since then it is difficult to find a truly great Chenin Blanc in Napa Valley.    Goosecross Cellars (“Goosecross”) produces my favorite Chenin Blanc and I am of the opinion that this is one of their “stand out wines.”    Most Chenin Blancs are dry and lack much flavor.  What sets Goosecross’s Chenin Blanc apart from the rest in the field is that on the palate, it is loaded with big pear flavors, a hint of honeydew melon and soft notes of sugar.   There is a tiny hint of perfume on the nose and as the wine’s slightly sweet components caress off the palate, this Chenin Blanc becomes the perfect backyard casual aperitif.    This wine would pair beautifully with the appetizers that I prepared above, but it also could go effortlessly with a light-flavored cheese plate accompanied by cashews, strawberries, grilled plums or other fresh seasonal fruit.

So onward fellow connoisseurs… Explore Dessert Wines with creativity and an open mind.  Whip up your favorite appetizers and create your own backyard “happy hour.”   Most importantly:  do not forget to invite your friends!   Get ready for casual easy backyard entertaining, warm summer evenings and good, good, good… “good libations.”

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Jun 18 2009

Is it a Sin to Love Zin?

Never.    Zinfandel, or “Zin” as aficionados lovingly call it, is a red wine which has a broad spectrum of tastes.   Some are spicy, some are “jammy”, and some are as smooth as silk.   

How is it that a Zinfandel can vary so drastically from one winery to another?   

Why is it that these different descriptive components can be found in some Zinfandels but not necessarily all or together?  

Zinfandel is widely known for being able to host the individual characteristics of its terroir, age of the grapevine, and the talent of the winemaker involved.   For example, Zinfandels which come from grapevines that are 80 years old, are generally considered “Old Vine Zinfandels”.   Definitions vary and some winemakers will consider vines old at 50 years.   My personal experience is that Zinfandels which glide across your palate, convey a sense of smoothness and demonstrate even balance are made from zinfandel grapes which typically come from old vines that are at least 80 years old, if not older.        

Zinfandels are touted by many as the classic barbeque wine.    And they most certainly are.    Depending on the Zinfandel that you are enjoying, it might go with simple grilled meats and vegetables, hearty barbeque spice rubs, marinades or sauces.   Given that Father’s Day is this weekend (and many a dad loves to barbeque), a bottle of Zinfandel would be a gift suitable for any backyard gathering that you might be attending. Better yet, if you are near Napa Valley, taking your father Zinfandel tasting.

Elyse Winery (“Elyse”), located here in Napa Valley on Hoffman Lane in Yountville, produces four (4) consistently good, solid Zinfandels which I believe present a great starting point for learning about the different Zinfandel styles mentioned earlier.    Of the four (4) Zinfandels produced at Elyse, I am going to focus primarily on three (3) of their Zinfandels:    (i) A.K.A. Zinfandel ; (ii) Zinfandel – Morisoli Vineyard; and (iii) Howell Mountain Zinfandel.   

A.K.A. Zinfandel:   That’s right, “A.K.A.” as in “also known as.”    This Zinfandel comes from a very well-regarded vineyard in Napa Valley such that the winery is not allowed to disclose its actual location in its labeling and marketing.    Trust me, the wine will speak for itself.    The zinfandel vines used to make this wine are younger, approximately only 30 years old.    The result from using younger vines, in my opinion, is that you obtain a Zinfandel which is commonly described as “jammy” compared to its counterparts.    The terroir  where the vines sit will also determine the degree and level of spiciness that is found in the wine as well.    In the glass, this Zinfandel has a beautiful ruby, jewel-tone color and big blackberry notes welcome your nose.    On the palate the wine does offer a “jammy” component but it is also accompanied by a nice balanced representation of spices such as Asian spice, anise and a hint of licorice.   I would be tempted to try this alongside grilled salmon with an heirloom cherry tomato, chive butter sauce.  But this wine will easily go with tomato-based sauces, a simple table cheese like Fontal and something as basic as a burger off the grill or steak.

Zinfandel  – Morisoli Vineyard:     This Zinfandel is produced from old vine zinfandel grapes from the well-regarded Morisoli Vineyard along the Rutherford Bench in Napa Valley.    As indicated earlier, this Zinfandel does not disappoint as it exhibits a rich smoothness that causes the wine to roll across the palate like velvet.  While it does have the “plummy” fruit characteristics of an old vine zinfandel to greet you on the front part of the palate, they are not as pronounced as younger Zinfandels typically boldly hold forward.    It is smooth, balanced, and elegant.    It also boasts a slight hint of spice such that it would pair well with simple grilled meats that are not overly spiced and a wide variety of grilled vegetables.   

Howell Mountain Zinfandel:   Pepper, spice and Everything “Oh So Nice…”   The Howell Mountain Zinfandel comes from a vineyard on Howell Mountain.   For those unfamiliar, Howell Mountain tends to produce fruit (whether for a Zinfandel, Claret, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc.) that is loaded with spice because of the terroir  where the vines are planted.   The terroir  of Howell Mountain always assures that the geography will be noted in the wine that is produced from its grapes.   This Zinfandel does not disappoint.   As I initially alluded, this wine demands immediate attention from your senses as you are instantly greeted by big peppery notes on the front of the palate, followed by subtle spices as the wine works its way back.    The presence of plum and dark black raspberry in this wine is vibrant and exhibits the characteristics of truly ripe fruit, coaxing your senses to explore more.    This was the Zinfandel which I elected to pair with a meal for this week’s article.    I elected to make chipotle chile grilled barbeque chicken with rosemary and garlic roasted miniature red potatoes, accompanied by a side of grilled zucchini.    The smokiness in the chipotle chile component of the barbeque sauce helped bring out some of the spices found in this wine, in addition to wonderfully complimenting the wine with its own inherent pepper and spiciness.    Using rosemary with the roasted potatoes actually helped to slightly tame the bold pepper notes in the wine and bring forward more fruit on the palate.   Zucchini, as the vegetable choice, has a subtle flavor but boasts enough backbone against an otherwise peppery bold Zinfandel.     The Howell Mountain Zinfandel has its own smoky alluring components which add for a nice complexity if you are enjoying it with something simple.   Feeling ultra-casual?   Grab a bag of salt and black pepper potato chips and nibble slowly while sipping a glass of this “Zinful” beauty.

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As previously mentioned, Elyse does have a  fourth Zinfandel (produced from grapes from the Korte Ranch Vineyard), which is not necessarily my favorite.   It is a good Zinfandel with lots of blackberry on the nose, but given the components that I experience in this wine, I find that it pairs very well with aged dry jack cheese and other hard cheeses.    For full meals, however, I personally prefer the other three (3) listed above.  

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*Elyse has many other wonderful wines that are available to taste in its tasting room.   If you are planning a visit to Elyse, please note that you need to call ahead and reserve a time to visit them.    If you honor their appointment requirement, you will be met by knowledgeable hospitality staff and your palate will not be disappointed by the array of wines available at their tasting bar.    Of additional note, Elyse wines (and their second label, Jacob Franklin) are frequently found on wine lists in restaurants in Napa Valley (if not throughout the U.S.). img_0001_52

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Jun 17 2009

Let’s Go Tasting!

Published by under Wine Education

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As summer heats up, the traffic up and down Highway 29 in Napa Valley increases.    People are wandering in and out of wineries, tasting wine as they go and sometimes without much wine knowledge.   Do you have to be an expert in wine before going wine tasting?   No.  
Would it be helpful to know a few tips that could enhance your tasting experience and avoid wine etiquette mishaps?   Of course.    And this is exactly what this article intends to accomplish. 

 

 

 

 

1)      Brushing Your Teeth:    Good dental hygiene is important to everyone and no one wants people to scoot away from him/her in a tasting room because of horrid breath.    However, toothpaste distorts your palate’s ability to taste wine.   

      The solution:  brush your teeth first thing in the morning when you get up – not immediately before going tasting.

 

2)      Aftershave, Perfume, Heavily Scented Lotions and Body Sprays:     Wine country… it allures with a connotation of elegance, style, and wealth and people often want to look their best and smell their best.    A word of advice:   people are coming to wine country to taste wine and smell its bouquet.   They are not coming to smell you.   Years ago, a friend and I were at a winery and a group of people joined our group late.    They had just been kicked out by a different winery.  Why had they been turned away?  Because they were wearing perfume and aftershave.    These people were miffed and thought that it was arrogant of the other winery to have rejected them.   Hospitality staff, however, confirmed that some wineries do this.    Let’s state the obvious:   Old Spice and Cabernet Sauvignon do not pair well together.   

      This being said, bathing is still highly recommended for other obvious reasons.   However, leave perfumes at home and use aftershave sparingly, first thing in the morning or preferably, the night before going tasting.   

 

3)      Drinking Orange Juice:     Think a mimosa is a great way to start off your day of tasting?   It is not.   Due to the acidity in orange juice, it is not a friend to your palate when you attempt to taste wine later.   If you must have orange juice in the morning, have it as early as possible and drink plenty of water afterwards to clear your palate.    Breakfast is highly recommended.

 

4)      The Gum Chewer:       I once stood next to a fellow who, while chewing gum, sincerely tried to talk knowledgably to me about the wine that we tasted.   Seriously.   Seriously.    I should not have to explain, but chewing gum will distort your palate and it frequently insults the hospitality staff in the winery accommodating you.  

 

5)      Plants Outside the Winery:    Wineries are generally beautifully landscaped as you walk towards the entrance of their tasting rooms.   Ever wonder why?    The roses, rosemary, lavender and other flowers planted outside help get your olfactory senses primed for wine tasting.   Most of what you are able to taste is determined by your sense of smell.   So as you encounter these plants, take in a deep breath and get your nose ready to smell some good wine inside.  

 

6)      Tasting in General:   You have made it into the tasting room of the winery.    You are here.   People are happily drinking wine.  You step up to the tasting bar, ready to experience similar enjoyment, and the wine is poured.   Just drinking it is an option, but how do you obtain the full experience of wine tasting?    First, hold the glass by its stem on the tasting bar and swirl the glass.   This helps oxidize the wine which helps “open up the wine.” 

 

      By opening up the wine, you will smell different elements in the wine and similarly taste more fruit, spice, and less tannins.    Now, hold the glass up to your nose.   If your nose is toward the top of the glass, you will smell more fruit.   If your nose is toward the bottom of the glass, you will smell more alcohol.    Breathe in deeply.   Close your eyes.   Imagine what you smell… blackberry… plum… grapefruit… lime… licorice… It could be a variety of things.   Then take a small taste.   Let the wine slowly cross your palate.   Your front, middle and back parts of your palate are going to taste different components in the wine.    As you are doing this, make notes.    If you do not have a pen or a piece of paper, ask the hospitality staff behind the tasting bar.    They usually can accommodate you.    

 

     Important note:  you do not have to finish the total amount that is poured for you.   You are welcome to dump that into the spittoon located on the tasting bar.   “But I am wasting wine…”      No, you are not wasting wine.   You are preserving your palate so that you do not waste future wine and you are acting responsibly.    And moreover, it is perfectly fine to pour wine out or not taste every wine listed.   You will not offend the winery’s hospitality staff.

 

7)      Pack Snacks:       Snacks are important for two reasons.   First, snacks will help you and your palate.   Those industry standard one ounce pours in the tasting room add up quickly.   Typically, I have a small cooler in the car that is loaded with bottled water, apple slices, string cheese, almonds and dried breadsticks.    These types of snacks help clear the palate for future tasting at the next winery and help hydrate, nourish, and absorb some of the alcohol that has been consumed.   If your palate is not clear, you cannot enjoy the wine that you are tasting or adequately assess if it is worth purchasing.  Second, snacks are essential because they will save you from becoming the dreaded Water Cracker Gobbler.    We’ve all seen the Water Cracker Gobbler at one point or another.    Perhaps he/she is leaning all over the tasting bar, hoarding all of the water crackers to himself/herself.     Maybe he/she is standing slightly behind you, clumsily reaching over your shoulder repeatedly to keep eating all of the crackers in the bowl.   Or maybe you turn around to see him/her with a goofy grin on his/her face, but with the tell-tale signs of cracker crumbs dusting his/her shirt with the cracker bowl tossed carelessly aside.    None of these are pleasant images.   Aside from that, those water crackers help patrons clear their palates:  they are not a substitute for your lunch.

 

8)  Plan a Picnic or Make a Lunch Reservation:     Do not skip lunch.    Even if you have an appointment at a winery, you can call that winery and reschedule.    Food is essential to helping you through the day.    If you plan to picnic, many of the wineries have picnic areas but it is bad etiquette (if not prohibited) to drink another vintner’s wine or beer on the premises.

 

9)      Milk Products, Shakes, Ice Cream:     It has never been my natural inclination to have a milkshake in between tastings at wineries.   I have been told however, that having a milkshake with a belly full of wine and then trying to squeeze in one last winery for the day is a gastronomical mistake of potentially great proportions.   Simply, do not do it.

 

10)   Number of Wineries in a Day:    Three.   No more.   Ideally, I like visiting one or two wineries a day but I have the luxury of living in Napa Valley.   For those visiting, I recommend no more than three wineries because after three your palate will be over-saturated and not able to distinguish accurately what you are experiencing in the wine.    Remembering that you do not have to taste everything that is set before you (in what is called a “flight”), you can go to several wineries in a day if you plan to only taste one or two wines at a winery.   

 

11)   Driving:    Please be responsible driving while out wine tasting.    There are a number of chauffeur services in wine country who can safely transport you to each winery and many actually will arrange tours for you.    Also check and see if there is an alternative method like the Napa Valley Wine Train, or shuttles or trolleys.     Finally if you must drive, have a designated driver.    There is nothing worse than standing in a tasting room next to a stranger who at 1:00 p.m. admits that he is not going to taste because that is his fourth winery and worse …  he is the driver.  

 

 

12) Make Appointments With Wineries:    Some wineries allow you to wander in at your leisure to taste, but often many require appointments.   If you know you are going to a winery, call ahead and find out if an appointment is required.   Aside from it being simple courtesy to make an appointment, wineries can also prepare for your arrival.    If you are in a large group, this is essential.   If you are out tasting and receive a recommendation to visit a certain winery, if that person works in the industry, ask if they would call the winery for you to ensure that they will be expecting you.   Or if you stumble upon a winery that catches your interest, use your cell phone and call information to connect you to the winery.    Calling ahead when wineries may or may not require appointments is always good measure and good simple common sense.  

 

13)  General Tasting Room Conduct:     Recently a friend of mine was out tasting and shocked by the number of individuals braying like drunken donkeys in a tasting room.    While this image made me laugh, I did think back to the numerous instances of people happily calling out “Say Hangover!” as their picture would be snapped by hospitality staff and those errant fake feathers that have landed in my wine glass from the boa of an inebriated bride-to-be.    As comical as these images sound, in reality, being surrounded by people like this is a nuisance.    Everyone is entitled to have a good time… but that is just it, everyone.     The tasting bar in a winery is not the town tavern.     While you might be out celebrating a special occasion, if you know that you are going to want to “party” as opposed to “taste,” be courteous to the other people in the tasting room and buy a bottle and take your festivities elsewhere.  

 

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Jun 10 2009

Viognier: Can an Otherwise Springtime Wine Carry Into Summer?

Here in Napa Valley we have been experiencing a cooler than normal summer.    This week alone, our daily high temperature is approximately ten degrees cooler than average.   As any other traditional lover of summer weather, I am longing for those warm lazy days and transitioning over to drink my traditional favorite summer wines.    But today as I wandered out to water my vegetable garden, I realized that there are some benefits to cooler June temperatures:  

(a) my garden is loaded with a wide variety of vegetables, some of which would have otherwise already peaked and stopped producing; and

(b) I can enjoy certain wines just a little bit longer before the truly dog days of summer descend upon me.   

One of those wines that I would typically shelve by June 15th is the white wine, Viognier.  

Viognier is different than chardonnay, pinot grigio, sauvignon blanc or any other white wine, for that matter.    This wine separates itself from the rest based on, in my opinion, what greets you on the nose:  a unique perfumed bouquet.    Aromas of honeysuckle, gardenia, or herbal notes might be taken in and lush flavors of apricot, nectarine, ripe peach, and spices will traditionally entertain your palate regardless the vintner’s viognier.    

While this wine teases of big fruit on the palate, it does establish a sense of elegance in that it is also traditionally crisp.   The grape itself is actually delicate to grow because if it is not picked when it is fully ripe, many of the aromas and flavors that are described above will not be present in the wine later.    Because the grape must be picked when it is fully ripe, that means that the grape is allowed to sit on the vine longer than other grape varieties and therefore leading to a higher alcohol level.    You might be wondering,

“How do I know what the alcohol level is in my bottle of Viognier?”   

Generally it is found in a percentage and typically tiny font on the side of the label.     And even if you are served a Viognier and do not consciously know the alcohol content, your body will typically let you know because you will feel what people refer to as “the heat” off of the wine.    I know for a fact that if a wine is high in alcohol content that my cheeks flush red immediately.    

Why is knowledge of the alcohol level important? 

Aside from the obvious cautionary health and responsibility reasons, the other reason is that if you are pairing food with this wine, you will want to make sure that you include something substantial.    And that lovely romantic floral nose on Viognier can present a challenge in food pairing.  

Does this sound complicated?   It’s not.  

Really.    Trust me.    We just need to think outside the box.  

So what goes well with a wine that is traditionally floral on the nose?   In my opinion, anything with ginger pairs perfectly.  This means that certain Asian cuisine will go well.   I have found that sushi and sashimi pairs wonderfully if the alcohol content in the wine is not too high (my particular favorite being a spicy salmon roll with sliced ginger on top) or a chicken breast marinated with honey, ginger and teriyaki.  Tonight, I do not have sushi readily available and as I mentioned initially above, my garden is producing a variety of vegetables.   I decided that I wanted to use what I had and practice the concept of “sustainability”.    Here is what I picked from the garden tonight:

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Putting these vegetables together I can make a great salad.    And the flowers in the picture are edible.   The petals offer a slight aroma and a slight spicy element to the salad.  These will serve as a thoughtful tribute to the Viognier that I am going to pair.   On the grill, I grilled chicken breasts, slightly marinated in ginger, honey and teriyaki sauce.   I also grilled some zucchini from the garden and to really tie in the flavors of apricot, peach and nectarine in my wine, I decided to grill nectarine halves, too.    (Note:  if you do not have all of the fixings for a salad, grilling chicken, nectarines and zucchini will be more than ample and enhance the flavors in the Viognier.)  

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The result:   not only a delicious dinner, but a meal that produced a lot of great flavors that balanced out the perfumed nose of the Viognier.    And more importantly, while traditionally I have felt that ideally this wine has a smaller seasonal window for consumption (being from May to June 15th), I do think that Viognier can be enjoyed throughout the summer in the right setting.  

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*Viognier is traditionally found in France but California does produce quite a few Viognier wines.   California Viognier can be found throughout the Central Coast and also in Sonoma County and Napa County.    The Viognier that I enjoyed tonight can be found at Goosecross Cellars in Napa Valley and I have found its aromas, flavors, acidity, alcohol content and balance to be consistent over the last several years.    I do recommend that if you are visiting wine country that you try a variety of wineries’ Viognier to get a feel for what you can experience on your palate and ultimately enjoy.

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