A Tuscan Tour and The Fox

 

Dated:  August 24, 2010

By:  Kitty Maloney, Correspondent Connoisseur   

 

Inspired after to listening to a few friends one night debate the topic of what wine goes best with pizza, I decided that I would feature pizza for this month’s pairing.  I am told that if this was Italy, we would not be pairing pizza with wine, the ideal beverage would be beer. Why?  Well, that, I think, is for another debate, on another night and for an entirely different column.

 

While pizza may seem to be rather straight forward for pairing with wine, it can prove to be challenging as it is not as straight forward as one may initially presume. Stop and think about the last time you looked at a pizza menu, the options of choices are almost limitless: plain cheese pizza, 4 cheese pizza, pepperoni pizza, vegetarian pizza, white pizza, Hawaiian pizza, barbecue chicken. . . I’ll stop now (as I think I have made my point).

 

So how does one pair wine with such a chameleon of a dish like pizza? By thinking about the intensity, acidity, tannins and flavors of the wine and then matching those to the characteristics of the pizza, you will not go wrong. These factors will vary depending on the toppings, sauce and crust used to prepare the pizza. When matched well, one will truly enjoy the intermingling of flavors offered by the pizza and the wine.  When paired with pizza, you generally want a wine with medium acidity that will stand up to the sauce and yet offer enough tannins to balance and cut through the cheese(s). This type of wine is generally a young, medium bodied red wine.  Of course depending on how extravagant your pizza is, you can play with that last statement to work in more fuller bodied wines.  However, a word of caution regarding a fuller bodied red wine: it generally is more tannic and that proves tricky with the pizza crust.  Pizza crust sometimes has a drying effect on the mouth and so do the tannins in wine:  the more tannin, the more of a dryness effect is felt in the mouth.    

 

Since I tend towards pizza with at least one extravagant ingredient and a zesty sauce, my “go to” wine for pizza is generally a Sangiovese. This grape is the heart and soul of many wines from Tuscany, especially ones from the region of Chianti.  While Sangiovese can be a challenge to bottle as a single varietal, it is often blended with a variety of other red wine varietals (including Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Cabernet Franc).   The blending of different varietals often has a tremendous impact on enhancing or tempering the wine’s quality and flavor profile. If done well, Sangiovese is a smooth drinking wine with a beautifully balanced flavor profile.

 

 

 

The Sangiovese that is featured in this pairing is produced by Three Fox Vineyards, located in Delepalene, VA, which is in the heart of the Fauquier Wine Trail.  Three Fox Vineyards principally specializes in Italian varietals.  The 2008 ILVolpe Sangiovese (“IL Volpe”, meaning “The Fox”) is a blend of Three Fox Vineyards’ estate grown Sangiovese (75%), Cabernet Franc (20%) and Chambourcin (5%). The Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc are individually aged in American and Hungarian Oak.  The wine is made to emulate the “Super Tuscan” classification in Italy and succeeds as it has collected several accolades including being a Gold Medal Winner at the Eastern Seaboard 2008 Wine Competition and a Silver Medal Winner at the Hilton Head Island International 2009 Wine Competition.

 

  

 

1)      Roasted Pepper and Tomato Salad with Herbs De Provence Croutons

 

 

 

While to many a person pizza can be a meal in itself, I generally like a salad alongside. I decided to roast a few red bell peppers, two types of tomatoes (Roma and Grape tomatoes) and torn up pieces of French bread. Herbs De Provence was liberally sprinkled on the tomatoes and bread prior to roasting. 

 

The IL Volpe Sangiovese paired wonderfully with the salad; intentionally included herbaceous notes of the salad really brought forth the Cabernet Franc influences in the wine. The nose on this wine was of cassis with a hint of tobacco.  On the palate, darker fruits like cherry came forth and were accompanied by a long finish. It balanced out the sweetness of the roasted peppers and tomatoes.

 

2)     2 Cheese Roasted Tomatoes, Mushroom Pizza With a Zesty Sauce on a Whole Wheat Pizza Crust

 

 

 

To add dimension, the pizza included two cheeses, Gruyere and Mozzarella. For me, mozzarella can be rather one dimensional, yet include a gruyere and a depth and richness emerges in the cheese mixture without detracting from the creamy nature of the mozzarella. The mushrooms and tomatoes were sprinkled with Herbs de Provence before going on to the pizza (note, mushrooms were under the cheese mixture to prevent them from drying out during baking.)

 

The IL Volpe Sangiovese had the right balance of acidity and tannins to bring out the richness of the gruyere and at same time cut through the palate coating effect of the cheese. The wine was tangy enough and matched the zestiness of the sauce. The whole wheat crust brought out the toast and caramel notes of the wine. The touch of Chambourcin rounds out the full mouth feel of this wine. This wine has a beautiful long finish.  Notes of cassis, dark cherries and a hint of chocolate can be detected. This wine paired beautifully to the rich extravagant pizza. The Herbs de Provence brought forth the subtle hints of the herbaceous influence that characterize both the Cabernet Franc and Chambourcin.

 

Pouring a glass of Sangiovese while serving a slice adds a romanticized Old World flare to an otherwise casually embraced American cuisine.

 

   

 

 

A Summer Sunset in a Bottle: Rosés

Dated:  July 27, 2010

By:  Kitty Maloney, Correspondent Connoisseur

 

 

Oh Rosé, the light easy drinking wine that for me is summer in a bottle. My fondness for this style of wine stems from both its versatility when paired with foods and vacation memories where it was sipped  on the beach in St. Martin F.W.I. Very few  wines easily pair  with burgers, barbeque chicken, shell fish and summers salads as well as a variety of ethnic cuisine such as Indian, Spanish and Mediterranean dishes. This flexible versatility makes Rosé a hostess’ best friend when entertaining during summer months.

 

Traditionally Rosé wines ranges from dry to off- dry (the latter characterized by a slight residual sugar). The two Rosés featured in this month’s article demonstrate both styles. Both wines are from Breaux Vineyards. The first is a 2008 Syrah Rosé (dry) and the second is a 2009 Cabernet Rosé (off –dry).

 

 

Breaux Vineyards is located in Loudoun County, Virginia, in the Loudon Heights Cluster of the Loudoun County Wine Trail. Breaux has 100 acres of vines planted in 18 different varietals. Breaux Vineyards first planted 3 acres in 1985 and opened it doors to the public in 1997.  Under the guidance of a very skilled winemaker, Dave Collins, Breaux Vineyards’ wines have won many national and international awards including “Best of Class” at the L.A. County Fair Competition for its 2001 Merlot.  Breaux Vineyards is nestled into Loudoun highlands at the base of South Mountain. The vineyard is a perfect place to gather with a few friends and enjoy a glass a wine while taking in the spectacular view that includes beautiful vistas of the Blue Ridge Mountains.

 

 

 

Summers in the greater Washington DC area, like most of the Mid-Atlantic, are hot and humid. This summer is turning out to be one for the record books and extreme heat has often dashed my hope of outdoor dining.  While  this food and wine pairing aspired to be held outdoors, extreme heat hustled our entertaining indoors and still served another wonderful casual evening of food, wine, good friends and family.

 

First Course:  Goat Cheese with Cranberry Chutney;

                        Vegetable Samosas with Yogurt-Cilantro Dipping Sauce; and

                        Paired with 2008 Breaux Vineyards Syrah Rosé

 

 

 

The Breaux Syrah Rosé (“Syrah Rosé) is a dry Rosé that at first taste hints of a mix of berries (reflecting most notably strawberry) with a dash of spice. The Syrah Rosé is a light, crisp, refreshing wine with nice acidity and finishes dry. The goat cheese with cranberry chutney brought out other berry notes in the wine. The acidity of the wine helped balance out the heavy creaminess of the goat cheese on the palette. 

 

 

The curry in the Samosas really pulled out the spice notes of the Syrah Rosé, most notably the black pepper. Once again the acidity of this wine complimented and tempered the palate coating nature of the yogurt-cilantro dipping sauce and simultaneously pulled out the earthiness of the spices and herbs in the dipping sauce.

 

 

Entrée: Marinated Gilled Chicken with Tangy Barbeque Sauce;

            Roasted Asparagus; and

Arugula, Baby Green Leaf Lettuce, Endive, Strawberry and Roasted Almonds Salad with a White Balsamic Vinegar Reduction.

 

Despite the record heat, the Weber grill was fired up to tackle the chicken and asparagus thus sparing the kitchen any additional unnecessary heat.

 

 

2009 Breaux Vineyards Cabernet Rosé (“Cabernet Rosé “) is made in the Blanc de Noir method (meaning white winemaking methods are applied to red wine varietals). Chilled immediately after picking, the grapes are whole cluster pressed (without crushing or destemming) and result in a bright pink juice.  The Cabernet Rosé, with its slight residual sugar, is an off-dry Rosé. At first sip one detects summer fruits, especially cherries. The wine is notably sweeter than the 2008 Syrah Rosé, but still has nice balance and finishes slightly drier than expected.

 

Off-dry Rosés can be almost as versatile as dry Rosés when pairing with foods as long as the sweetness and savory levels of the wine and food match. That is why I chose to pair the Cabernet Rosé with the Marinated Grilled Chicken with Tangy Barbeque Sauce. The Cabernet Rosé blossomed when paired with the chicken. The acidity of the wine and barbeque sauce were well matched. The tanginess of the barbeque sauce tempered the sweetness of the Cabernet Rosé and brought out notes of strawberries and raspberries in the wine. The wine became much smoother and supple when paired with the chicken dish. The earthiness of the asparagus also tamed the sweetness of the wine while bringing out hints of spice on the finish of the Cabernet Rosé.

 

The Cabernet Rosé held its own when paired with the salad. I was slightly nervous as a vinegar based salad dressing can be quite a challenge for a wine pairing. However, the white balsamic reduction dressing is light and sweet with balanced acidity. The sweetness of the dressing when mixed with the peppery notes of the arugula and the toasty taste of the almonds complimented the Cabernet Rosé nicely.

 

Towards the end of the dinner a few of my guests asked if there was any of the Syrah Rosé left, as they wanted to see how that would pair with dinner. I had no doubt that the Syrah Rosé would pair nicely, being a dry Rosé.  Nevertheless, I was quite surprised how the Syrah Rosé adeptly brought out the spices and herbs notes of the marinade that had permeated the chicken, that were not quite as noticeable with the Cabernet Rosé.  Having had the ability to compare and contrast the two wines and the effects of each on the food was a terrific educational piece to our entertaining.   

 

 

 

As summer marches on and the heat wave continues to relentlessly grasp much of the country, Rosé will continue to triumphantly serve as a delightfully, refreshing choice which can be enjoyed simply by the glass or effortlessly paired alongside most summer meals.   For me, Rosé will be a reliable guest at my gatherings if nothing more than to fondly reminisce of recent vacations when carefree toes carefully tucked themselves into the sand and nearby waves crashed on the beach.

 

 

Dated:  June 29, 2010

By: Kitty Maloney, Connoisseur Correspondent

 

“We could in the United States make as great a variety of wines as are made in Europe, not exactly of the same kinds, but doubtless as good.”

- Thomas Jefferson, American president and Renaissance man, (1743-1826)

 

Wine making in Virginia, like many things in the Old Dominion, dates back to 1607 with the settlement at Jamestown. For most of the following 400 years, Virginian winemakers would toil in their endeavor to create a thriving Virginia wine industry.  Both Thomas Jefferson and George Washington planted and tended to vines with nary a bottle produced. It would not be until the 1800’s that Virginia winemakers would see their first success when they turned their attention from struggling to grow European grapes to the native North American grapes, particularly the Norton red wine grape. At the Vienna World Fair in 1873, a Virginia Norton red wine was named “best red wine of all nations.” Later, at the 1889 Paris World Fair a Norton wine received a Gold medal. With later discovery that European grape vines could be grafted onto American root stock and thrive, the Virginia wine industry finally began to experience growth. Any growth that was achieved, however, was soon dashed by Prohibition where thereafter it would take several decades for the Virginia wine industry to stage a comeback. Recovery finally took hold in the 1970’s with the establishment of six new wineries. Today, Virginia boasts over 140 family owned vineyards and has six American Viticultural Areas (“AVAs,” being Eastern Shore, Monticello, Northern Neck, North Fork of Roanoke, Rocky Knob and Shenandoah Valley).

 

To celebrate Virginia’s increasing success and popularity in the world of wine, I decided that the focus of my first article would be one of the grapes that has enjoyed a starring role, Viognier. My first encounter with this varietal was in 2005 at the Mt. Vernon Spring Wine Festival. At that time, I was a devout red drinker and shied away from most white wines. I was coaxed into taking my first sips of Viognier by a proselytizing vintner who was so passionate about his wine that it was infectious. From that first sip, a passion for Viognier quickly developed. I wanted to know as much as I could about this wine (of which I had been previously unaware). In the course of five years I have come to learn that it is generally accepted that a well-crafted Viognier smells of jasmine, honeysuckle, peach blossoms and, at times, apricots and vanilla.  If a winemaker elects to adhere to  a traditional Old World style of winemaking (such as, a la Condrieu in the Rhone Valley) the Viognier wine will be delicate, subtle and lean rather than  lush with a plump fruit forwardness which is characteristic of what is deemed a New World style of winemaking. In Virginia, Viognier represents both styles and personal preference ultimately dictates which wins.  Viognier thrives in Virginia because it can survive the region’s late frosts of early spring and seeks the heat and humidity of the summer. Due to its adaptability to the region’s climate, Viognier has definitively put Virginia on the Wine World’s map.

To show off the prowess of Viognier in Virginia, I chose to feature Horton Vineyards (“Horton”). Located near Charlottesville in Orange, County, Virginia, the winery initiated its first plantings of the Viognier grape in 1992. Horton’s owner, Dennis Horton, took a gamble planting his first eight acres of Viognier when only 300 acres of the grape were growing in the entire world. . Established in 1977, Horton Vineyards is now one of Virginia’s largest wineries.  Horton Vineyards released Viognier in 2008 under two labels: Horton Vineyards and The Tower Series. Additionally, Horton Vineyards produces a NV Sparking Viognier. Given the diversity of the winery’s offerings, all three examples of Horton’s Viognier were featured for this article to demonstrate the grape’s versatility.

 

Inspired by that winemaker from five years ago, I invited a few close friends over for this wine and food pairing. These friends, like me many years ago, were staunch red wine drinkers who shied away from many white wines unless they were quite sweet. Confident that I could demonstrate that wine (regardless whether red or white) paired with the right food could be delightful, I embarked upon the task of dispelling my guests’ generalized notions of wine preferences. Yes, my wine and food reputation within my circle of friends was on the line.

 

First course, an herb infused cream cheese and goat cheese spread with fresh baked lightly salted pita chips paired with Horton Sparkling Viognier NV.

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