Proprietary Reds in Napa Valley arrive in varying grape combinations and consistencies.   Their tannins can be refined or firm and they can easily be overly influenced by the climate of each growing season.   As discussed earlier this year, some proprietary reds will actually meet the rigorous standards of Meritage, others will be called Claret and some will just simply be referred to as “proprietary red”.   Yet there is still another technical classification that merits special discussion and that is of the Super Tuscan Reds.  

Italy, like other countries, has its own system of set rules and regulations to categorize wine by quality, caliber and appellation:  denominazione di origine controllata (“DOC”).   In the 1980’s, a trend in red wines emerged and received international acclaim for their superlative quality, yet without an official DOC classification, these wines were left to be referred to merely as “table wine”.    Given the term “table wine” gave a distinction of commonality to otherwise uniquely special red wines, a new terminology emerged informally among Italian wine connoisseurs to distinguish these wines: “Super Tuscan”.   These wines could vary in consistency and combination.   For example, they might consist of a blend of red grapes which included perhaps unauthorized grapes (such as Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon), unapproved methods (size of barrel, type of oak, etc.), or an unauthorized consistency (which could even mean that the wine could consist of 100% of Sangiovese yet hail from an area that was not officially designated for such production).    These “Super Tuscans” broke the barriers of traditional regulation in Italian winemaking and did so most frequently reflecting extraordinarily high quality and attracting premium prices.   Today most “Super Tuscans” are still sold as table wine, but in the 1990’s, Italian authorities decided to extend a special DOC to certain individual Super Tuscan reds in recognition of the distinct, phenomenal quality that said wine presented.

Benessere Vineyards (“Benessere”), located in Napa Valley, prides itself for crafting Italian and Tuscan inspired wines.   Benessere is exceptionally regarded for its Sangiovese, yet also uniquely steps to the forefront of the wine community with a red Super Tuscan, which is aptly named, “Phenomenon”.

The 2005 Phenomenon creatively blends 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Sangiovese, 14% Merlot and 12% Syrah.   Given the ability of all of these grapes to grow well in Napa Valley, it is no surprise that the winery refers to the 2005 Phenomenon as its “Super Napan”.   2005 was a terrific year for most grapes in Napa Valley given that the year experienced an early bud break, followed by nurturing spring rains and then finished with a lingering summer to encourage a late harvest.

Pouring the wine into the glass, it is dark and brooding with glints of ruby jewel tones to meet the eye.   Characterized by a rich nose, the wine sets forth aromas of blackberry, spice, cloves, plum and leather, with a trace of dark chocolate.   Drinking well now, the palate experiences rich, round dark fruit of blackberry preserves and warmed plums, with gentle bits of olive, black cherries and spice.   Texturally the 2005 Phenomenon is smooth (which is a trademark of Benessere wines), has refined tannins and has just turned the corner in aging with hints of velvety sensations.   Add a finish that lingers and seduces, this truly is a majestic wine which at first blush merits fancy culinary fare yet also should not be feared to be enjoyed with something simpler or even alone.

Seeking to pay tribute to the creativity of the origin of Super Tuscans, I elected to veer away from the traditional big beef or steak pairing for the 2005 Phenomenon.   This week’s menu hosts:

·         Pesto Zucchini-Tomato Gratin Atop Basil Pesto Rotini

Given that it is mid-July, the vegetable garden is bursting with more zucchini than one readily knows how to use and heirloom tomatoes have quickly started to fully ripen.   One of the terrific joys of cooking in the summer is being able to walk into one’s vegetable garden, see what is available that evening, pick it right off the vine and head directly into the kitchen.   This week I am seemingly picking 3 zucchini and 3 slicing heirloom tomatoes a day.   Of unique surprise was a ripe Black fromTula heirloom tomato (known for perhaps being the ugliest of the heirlooms with a dark burgundy skin yet also recognized for being one of the most richly flavorful).   The Black from Tula heirloom tomatoes are frequently the last to ripen and often are not harvested until September.    Nevertheless, my plant wished to keep up with the neighboring Carmelo heirloom tomato plants and a combination of the two were picked for this week’s recipe.   Each offer their individual flavors but both are outstandingly rich which ultimately provides flavor dimension.  

Sautéed garlic is combined with chopped artichoke, fresh zucchini, freshly made basil pesto, a medley of varied basils and marjoram from the garden and is layered among slices of fresh mozzarella cheese and slices of heirloom tomatoes (among other ingredients).  Once baked, it is placed atop a Basil Pesto Whole Grain Rotini to create a filling Italian inspired summer meal.

Taken with the wine, the Basil Pesto does a dreamy dark seductive tango with the 2005 Phenomenon.   The sweet artichoke complements the wine’s mocha notes and softens its black fruit flavors.   The dish itself is savory and succulent given the lush flavorful freshly picked zucchini.   While filling, the meal is not overly heavy making it perfect for summer dining.

Whether your summer evenings are pleasantly cool or you retreat to a crisply air-conditioned dining room, the meal presents a terrific vegetarian way to creatively enjoy a well-crafted Super Tuscan red wine in otherwise warm summer months.