Summer months generally are not my ideal time to be cracking into Cabernet Sauvignons.   As most know, Cabernet Sauvignons can be big, bold and ever-tannic red wines.   The tannins typically dehydrate me which is the last thing that I seek during hot sultry summer evenings.    Depending on the American Viticultural Area (“AVA”), Cabernet Sauvignon grapes can be incredibly intense and less apt to be a choice for me during the summer.    June, however, in Napa Valley tends to provide temperatures that while warm are still caressed by cooling maritime breezes from San Pablo Bay.   It is on days such as these that I find Cabernet Sauvignon more accessible, (meaning that I can fully experience all of the nuances of the wine), and the wine is still timely appropriate to pair with summer seasonal dinner fare. 

For the Cabernet Sauvignon fans that follow my articles, this week I am finally introducing the Howell Mountain AVA located in Napa Valley.   Many local Cabernet Sauvignon enthusiasts in Napa Valley speak with a loving fondness for grapes produced in the Howell Mountain AVA.    Located on the northeast side of Napa Valley, tucked in the Vaca Mountain Range, the Howell Mountain AVA overlooks the town of St. Helena at an elevation ranging from 1,600 to 2,200 feet.    Given that the vineyards located here are at a significantly higher elevation that much of the rest of Napa Valley, they do not experience the cool late afternoon and evening fog of the San Pablo Bay.   While the Howell Mountain AVA is not picking up this fog originated moisture, it does experience cooler temperatures during the day due to its altitude.   Combine this cooler ten degree difference in temperature with an abundance of daytime sunshine and warmth at night, this AVA is terrific for growing Cabernet Sauvignon grapes.   For those who are familiar with the Climate Regions of California, Howell Mountain AVA falls in the category of “Region II”, making it exceeding similar to the Bordeaux Region of France.    Finally add volcanic soil (not alluvial) to this mixture of elements and the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes that burst forth from the vines are capable of producing big, bold wine which is rich with black fruit flavors and spice.   It is a special AVA and perhaps why it was Napa Valley AVA’s first subzone, receiving approval in 1984.

Given that it is practically summer and most of the nation has been experiencing warmer than normal temperatures, I wanted to reserve my bigger, bolder and more tannic Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon wines for either the fall or winter.   Nevertheless, with Father’s Day approaching and given pleasant present June weather, Goosecross Cellars offers a delightful Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon that fits the present palate whims.   

Earlier in the spring, when I was visiting the winery, I tasted the 2004 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon and was impressed with its satiny nature and distinctly Howell Mountain fruit.    The wine at this stage of bottle aging requires little decanting (which is rare for many Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignons that I taste).   Allowing the wine to breathe for a few minutes in the glass presents dark fruit characteristics of Howell Mountain such as black cherry and plum, accompanied by cassis, allspice and a gentle aroma of leather.    Taking a sip of the wine, the palate is greeted by a gentle cascade of smooth black cherries and refined, well-integrated tannins.   The wine has a supple body in the mouth that is silky and slightly leans towards dark and brooding.   As the wine lingers on the palate it delivers a slow seductive finish of spiced anise.   Taking in its coloring, the 2004 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon is dark with jeweled ruby highlights that capture the light and hint at the wine’s opulence.

While velvety wines inundate the palate with an immediate richness, substituting in the summer with a Cabernet Sauvignon that is silky is by no means a lesser choice.   Texturally, a silky smooth Cabernet Sauvignon offers an almost sleek feeling on the palate and lends itself to better food pairing as more creative combinations can be introduced.   Leading by example, this week’s menu hosts:

1)      Marinated Mushroom Salad;

2)     Cabernet Risotto; and

3)     Grilled Summer Steak Kabobs.

To get ready for Father’s Day, Marinated Mushroom Salad is a favorite dish of my parents and one that they used to make as an appetizer for sipping Cabernet Sauvignon with friends.   Using baby bella mushrooms will provide a heartier earthy flavor that innately pairs with Cabernet Sauvignon.   To practice sustainability, I picked sweet onions from my vegetable garden which pack an explosive sweet flavor.   Marinated in red wine vinegar and herbs from the garden and chilled to serve, these make for a delightfully delicious antipasto and it is easy to understand why this recipe is a long-standing family favorite:   they are simply disgustingly  good.

Instead of preparing the typical roasted potato dish, I wanted to prepare a Cabernet Risotto to serve beneath the Grilled Summer Steak Kabobs.   Both of these dishes aim to tie directly to the wine so the meat was soaked in a self-made red wine marinade (using various herbs from my garden and other ingredients) and as the title reflects, the risotto incorporates Cabernet Sauvignon.  Vidalia onions and sweet red pepper were used from the garden for the Summer Steak Kabobs.  To sweeten the red pepper slices, they were lightly brushed with balsamic vinegar prior to assembly and ultimate cooking on a charcoal grill.

Using garlic, Vidalia onion, sundried tomatoes, wine, marjoram and cheese (among other ingredients) the Cabernet Risotto was prepared to continue to bring forth other aromas and flavors found in a summer vegetable garden.   Once prepared, the Grilled Summer Steak Kabobs were place on top.

The Cabernet Risotto was rich, warm and comforting.   Cooked in Cabernet Sauvignon, the    risotto has depth in its flavoring and an almost earthy nature.   This dish would also have been a terrific accompaniment to a bevy of grilled vegetables for any vegetarian guests.

Taking into account the variety of herbs used from the garden (rosemary, Thai basil, thyme, marjoram, etc.) in the red wine marinade for the steak, it is no wonder that when accompanied by bites of grilled sweet red pepper and Vidalia onion that an explosion of a summer vegetable garden occurs in the mouth.

Lest we forget the 2004 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, as a rich sip accompanies the meal, it takes the notion of “pair cab with steak ” to the next level and with the right amount of culinary flare.    Daring my guests to take a bite of steak, red pepper, onion and a dab of risotto (followed by a sip of the 2004 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon), the dining consensus wholeheartedly agreed that this indeed was the quintessential “perfect bite”.  Those ensuing “perfect bites” loaded with summer vegetable garden flavors and a deep rich Cabernet Sauvignon hailing from the Howell Mountain AVA, proved the perfect meal for a mid-June evening.

*Did you remember to check the Rocky Mountain Vine tab to read its first regional wine and food pairing article?  Saunter over and read “Better With Altitude, Italian Pinot Grigio”.   Cheers!