Pinot Noir, the finicky red wine grape which grows well in the Burgundy region of France struggles to find its home in Napa Valley.   Taking into account that Pinot Noir grapes need warmth and moisture, there has been some success in the Carneros American Viticultural Area of Napa Valley and the majority of aficionados gravitate accordingly.   What many do not realize, however, is that there is a small sleepy American Viticultural Area (“AVA”) which has had coveted success at growing flavorful and aromatic Pinot Noir grapes.   The Wild Horse Valley AVA is located in the hills on the southeast corner of Napa County and Solano County.   It is here that Napa wine country receives some of its coldest temperatures, yet is afforded with more sun exposure than many other areas of Napa Valley.   Combine rocky volcanic soil with the maritime breezes characteristic of the Carneros AVA, Pinot Noir produced from the Wild Horse Valley AVA packs a sensuous punch.  Pinot Noir enthusiasts, however, can put down their car keys and relax.   Rushing to this small little-discussed AVA will not afford wine tasting opportunities.   Despite covering 3,300 acres, only 100 acres are planted with grape vines and those acres are owned primarily by three separate growers.   Wait, growers?   There are no wineries in the Wild Horse Valley AVA.   Despite the lack of presence of wineries, the Pinot Noir grapes are coveted from this AVA as they are characteristically full of bright red fruit flavors and pleasantly aromatic.   To further make this a search worthy of avid wine connoisseurs, only a handful of wineries in Napa Valley source fruit from the Wild Horse Valley AVA to make Pinot Noir.

While California Pinot Noir is often regarded as bolder than that of its French counterparts, the perfect blend of the two worlds can be found at Elyse Winery (“Elyse”) in Yountville where Ray Coursen strives to produce California Pinot Noir in line with the style found in Burgundy.  This week, to introduce readers to this small AVA, I have selected to feature Elyse’s 2005 Wild Horse Valley Pinot Noir.   Opening a bottle of the 2005 Wild Horse Valley Pinot Noir is no sacrifice, except in the sense of that my wine collection is sacrificing for the benefit of my reading audience.   Nevertheless, opening the bottle, any remotely perceived sense of sacrifice is whisked into oblivion as the nose is immediately greeted by tantalizing aromas of red raspberry, cranberry and cherry.   As the wine opens a bit in the glass, the bouquet shifts to include sultry nuances of black raspberry, oak, bits of anise and a whisper of smoke.    Readily enchanted, the wine next meets the palate to introduce texturally a wine which is soft and silky with a velvet caress.   Dominated by flavors of red raspberry and spiced cranberry, the wine also delivers a truly polished finish.

Given the subtle sense of decadence of the wine coupled with the vintner’s intent to reflect the terroir, it is fitting to create a food pairing which will also reflect the land using seasonal items from my vegetable garden.   This week’s menu holds:

·         Grilled Stuffed Portobello Mushrooms on a bed of Garden Picked Lettuces

While Portobello mushrooms are not growing in my vegetable garden, the stuffing contents are and lettuce presently abounds for salad.    Portobello mushrooms have a rich earthy taste which is fitting for pairing with Pinot Noir wines.   To create a twist on the traditional stuffed mushroom recipe, I brushed the Portobello mushrooms with a roasted garlic olive oil before setting them atop a charcoal grill.   Next I harvested handfuls of fresh spinach, fresh thyme and some green onions from my garden.   Once chopped green onions are sautéed in some roasted garlic olive oil with a bit of the reserved chopped Portobello stems, the spinach is added with fresh thyme to sauté.   Adding plumped dried cranberries to the spinach mixture not only adds color but also mirrors the bright red fruit flavors experienced in the wine.   To help hold the spinach stuffing in the grilled mushrooms, I used a mild cheese such as Provolone to lay as a foundation in the mushroom prior to filling.  Once properly filled and brushed with a bit of balsamic vinegar, the mushrooms are placed back on the grill to finish cooking.  

To serve, simply place upon a bed of mixed lettuce leaves picked from the garden and toss in any remaining scallions and plumped dried cranberries.

Garden-fresh flavors result which pop in the mouth but wash over the palate with a food finish of velvety comfort.  Couple the plate with the wine to experience soft velvet caresses which kiss the palate with seductive spice and rich bright red fruit.   Texturally, the dish matches the wine and the rich earthy flavors mirror the winery’s philosophy as well.   Choosing to use vegetables from the garden creates a flavorful fantasy so well-paired with the 2005 Wild Horse Valley Pinot Noir that for a brief moment one imagines that the wine’s grapes could have come from the same soil . . . uniting gourmet with the earth upon which we sit and rendering rich culinary feats within realistic grasp.