Feb 24 2010

Charismatic Rugged Petite Sirah

Published by at 11:05 pm under Food,Mexican Food,Petite Sirah,Red Wine

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If there is a grape which is followed with fervor and passion in Napa Valley, it is Petite Sirah.   Despite its name’s diminutive reference, the grape is capable of creating a big, bold tannic red wine loaded with complexity.  Primarily grown today in California (despite initially being grown in France), this grape is adored by its loyal fans.   The grape’s history is not without debate or controversy as over time it has been argued that it is a derivative of Syrah, while others argued that it was more like the grape Durif (which reportedly now is near extinct in France).   In the 1990’s, the grape Durif was analyzed with a DNA test which did show that the grape’s genetic parents were Syrah and Peloursin.   While this may at first seem to have solved the debate, it produced a greater complication in California.   In California, Petite Sirah was reported already in existence in the 1880’s, yet Durif was only being created at that time in Europe.   Taking this viticulture twist into consideration, it is understandable that some previously declared “old vine Petite Sirah vineyards” in California might house an errant Carignane, Syrah, Mourvedre, Peloursin or Grenache vine.   Among rabid Petite Sirah fans, impassioned verbal debates may ensue, but the average connoisseur can chose détente, cut to the chase and recognize a quality Petite Sirah wine:  a deep-colored red wine, which is dominated by blackberry fruit yet complex, robust, peppery and clearly tannic.

As one tastes various quality Petite Sirah wines, he or she discovers that like a good Pinot Noir there are subtle complexities and layers which come forth with the wine as it opens.   A good Pinot Noir wine’s nuances divulge themselves sequentially and float softly through the palate like gently falling rose petals.    Petite Sirah, however, slowly peels back a different seductive bold layer, often intriguing the senses and causing the consumer to think.   In short, Petite Sirah is a “thinker’s wine” allowing each individual to truly personalize what he or she experiences.   Perhaps this is why people become so passionately enamored with Petite Sirah or perhaps the reason is simply that the grape just is damn good.

Petite Sirah offerings abound in Napa Valley and that should come as no surprise.   The soil is volcanic, dusty and dry and the area is known for warm growing seasons such that the grape finds a happy home and thrives.    Markham Vineyards (“Markham”) presently provides the opportunity in its tasting room to not only taste its current release of the 2005 Petite Sirah but also the 2004 Petite Sirah.   Tasting them side by side allows one to not only acquaint oneself with the grape and the vintner’s winemaking style, but it also gives an opportunity to witness the aging potential for Petite Sirah.   Despite the smooth mouth feel of the 2004 Petite Sirah, my fondness for 2005 fruit won over.  I knew that I was smitten with the 2005 Petite Sirah, that I wanted to spend a little more time with it and like any new love, get to know it a little bit better.

Markham’s 2005 Petite Sirah is coy, yet enchanting like the initial moments of a new found love.   Its nose is characterized by aromas of dark blackberry, spice and white pepper while exhibiting a certain earthiness and traces of eucalyptus and leather.   In the mouth, the wine begins its process of slowly revealing its potential as pepper notes dance across the palate and bits of mocha dust flirt with undeniable blackberry fruit.   The combination of these elements presents a noticeably bold wine:  complete with a structure akin to a “strong silent type” and a finish which slowly smoothes, intoxicatingly hinting of the wine’s ability to age and where this new relationship may go.   Markham’s bold, rich, complex 2005 Petite Sirah is distinctly masculine and it provocatively causes one to swoon.

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Food pairings can be varied with Petite Sirah but thoughtfulness is owed if one wants to highlight the complex nuances found within the wine itself.    Like the early stages of a new relationship, extra effort is worthwhile and in such spirit, this week’s menu holds:

1)      Roasted Chicken With Mole Poblano; and

2)     Roasted Marinated Asparagus.

Petite Sirah meets its spirited match with Mole Poblano.  The actual origins of Mole Poblano, much like Petite Sirah, is disputed, but throughout Mexico it has been recognized for centuries as an acclaimed rich, spiced sauce which dares to blend chocolate and chilies (among other ingredients).  Blending chocolate and spice seems like a culinary battle, yet when the dust settles, the result is a rich sauce capable of complexity compatible only with Petite Sirah.  The making of Mole Poblano is complicated and time consuming; however, when properly prepared the sauce is rich and best served over roasted chicken.

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Last week a thoughtful friend was kind enough to bring me some freshly picked Meyer Lemons.   The Meyer Lemon is one of my favorite culinary weapons as it is fragrant with a perfume different than that of the traditional lemon and boasts a bright, rich, clean and less acidic flavor.   Since the roasted chicken will serve as a rich main course, a substantive vegetable side dish such as Roasted Marinated Asparagus will pair nicely and provide opportunity to use one of the newly acquired Meyer Lemons.  To give the asparagus some zip (prior to wrapping it in foil) it is marinated with a combination of chopped rosemary and thyme from the garden, minced shallot and garlic, a drizzle of olive oil and the juice of a Meyer Lemon.   Once wrapped, it is simply set in the oven to roast alongside the chicken breasts.

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Once completed and taken together, the meal is rich and complex like Markham’s 2005 Petite Sirah.   The Roasted Marinated Asparagus is refreshing, dynamic and slightly grassy in its flavoring as if to awaken the senses to all that spring has to offer in the near future.   When taken with the wine, the combination allows the wine’s dramatic dark berry fruit to tumble forth in all of its boldness.   The Roasted Chicken with Mole Poblano exceeds expectations as the chicken is moist, tender and succulently juicy and the sauce adds a lively rich spiced kick as only Mole Poblano can.   Markham’s 2005 Petite Sirah readily meets this culinary rodeo as it embraces the sweetness of the Mole Poblano with its fruit, wrangles the sauce’s spice with its slight tartness and ultimately vanquishes the mole itself with its peppery smooth finish.

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The meal and the Markham 2005 Petite Sirah taken together trigger romanticized American images of masculinity leaving one to wonder if John Wayne will grace the dinner party or if cigars, poker and well-intentioned bravado will follow after.   Regardless of the image, a glass of Petite Sirah will captivate one’s senses and spur one’s creativity.  Spend a little more time with it, get to know it better and realize that Petite Sirah is the grape that great wines are made of.

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