Feb 18 2010

Perfectly Pleasing Port

img_00043

Port, that pleasing after dinner wine, is best known for its sweeter and “fortified” representation of your favorite wine grape.  Like any other wine, no two ports are alike and can vary greatly.   First, there are four primary types of port:  (i) vintage (which is a single grape port and often very expensive); (ii) ruby (which is bottled young so it is ruby in color, fruit-forward and less expensive); (iii) tawny (which blends grapes of varying ages and can be a blend of ruby and white ports); and (iv) white (which is bottled young and uses white wine grapes).  Then, the style of port could use any one of several grapes such as cabernet sauvignon, petite sirah, sangiovese, tempranillo, malvasia or zinfandel (among others).   And finally, the next notable difference is determined by how the winemaker has elected to “fortify” the port.

img_00051

For port purists, the traditional style of winemaking involves the infusion of distilled grape spirits (as opposed to brandy or some other liqueur).   The grape alcohol is added to the wine halfway through the fermentation process which in turn actually stops the fermentation process, raises the alcohol level but maintains the fruit and sugar in the wine.   If brandy or some other liqueur is added to the port, a “hot” sensation in mouth can result.   Grape alcohol will not necessarily have this effect.   This can be important in personal preference because port alcohol contents are generally higher (ranging typically from 18% to 20%).

Vincent Arroyo Winery (“Vincent Arroyo”), located outside of Calistoga in Napa Valley, produces a petite sirah port which incorporates the traditional style of infusing grape alcohol.   The 2007 Petite Sirah Port is a beautiful jewel-toned ruby hue in the glass.   Taking in the bouquet of the port, the nose is not overwhelmed by the smell of alcohol (as it can be with other ports).   Instead, there is the subtle hint of the petite sirah grape (a dark rich grape which is capable of aromas of mocha, earth and dark berry fruit).   On the palate, the port is sweet but not overly which allows the rich characteristics of the petite sirah grape to come forth with representations of a blackberry or black raspberry jam blushed of blueberry.   In the mouth, the port mesmerizes the senses as it is very smooth and demonstrates a seamless balance of the grape alcohol and wine such that there is no evidence of a “hot finish” (nor should there be).    Given the harmonious balance of this port, it is alone is a true treat and a remarkable representation of how a port should convey itself.   However, it should be noted that it is equally special because of the particular grapes used.   Vincent Arroyo, passionate about growing petite sirah, is renown in Napa Valley for making fine quality petite sirah wines which frequently sell out soon after bottling.

When considering food pairings with port, the immediate consideration is chocolate, chocolate and more chocolate.   Depending on the grape involved, port can pair wonderfully with blue cheese or stilton cheeses.   Given that this port is made from petite sirah grapes (which naturally go well with chocolate and blueberries), this week’s pairing is a dessert:

·         Blueberry Pecan Cake With Chocolate Drizzle

One of the distinct characteristics about Vincent Arroyo’s petite sirah wines is that they often reflect a certain earthy quality which can easily be attributed to the soil where the grapes are grown.   While mulling over dessert recipes, it seemed intuitive to include a nut to accentuate the earthy notes of the port.  Finely chopped pecan would offer such proper flavoring which would be capable of demonstrating the earthier notes of the port without overwhelming the remainder of the cake.    The flavor of blueberries are compatible with the fruit in the port and also bring forth the wine’s “blush of blueberry” to give it overall more depth.  While my blueberry plant is loaded with ripening berries, I elected to use frozen berries which functioned formidably and tastily.

img_00022

Taken together with the 2007 Petite Sirah Port, the cake is a pleasant pairing and its consistency and substance helps to offset the alcohol content in the wine which is only 17%.  The tartness of the blueberries in the cake is balanced by the sweetness of the petite sirah port.    Equally, because the cake is not overly rich or sugary, it allows the port’s natural sweetness to take center stage and not attack one’s senses with a sugar overload.

img_00032

Sitting down with a friend and catching up on current events with such a pleasing port and slice of cake is a perfect way to spend a late winter’s evening.

img_00012

Comments Off on Perfectly Pleasing Port

Comments are closed at this time.