Jan 20 2010

Mad for Merlot

Published by at 9:57 pm under Food,Italian/Pasta,Merlot,Red Wine

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Mad for Merlot?   Is this possible?   Have I finally tasted enough wine to have lost my own wits and sense?   Hardly.  Instead, let it be known that anyone who turns up his or her nose at the possibility of being “mad for merlot” cannot claim to be a true wine aficionado.

Merlot is a grape that (as discussed this past summer) is found as the predominant grape in red Boudreaux blend wines, found blended from time to time with Cabernet Franc, and moreover is found standing on its own to create one hundred percent vintages.   As noted in my earlier article, “In Defense of Merlot”, many budding wine enthusiasts took a wrong turn under the influence a certain beloved pop culture wine film from the last decade which had a detrimental effect on the prior popularity of Merlot wines.    Wait, last decade?   Why, yes, and how passé!    If the start of a new decade is to be associated with new cultural trends, make one to join the current wine movement to bring back Merlot.    Such an undertaking is easy since the revitalization of Merlot does not involve anything remotely altruistic or overly committed.  Even with minimalistic research you will learn that Merlot can be presented in a remarkable wine, if it is indeed made well.

Some of the finest red wines made in the world consist of one hundred percent Merlot grapes.   Merlot, originally hailing from France, has been successfully planted in many parts of the world with its abundance determined by regional tastes and likes.   If planted in an area ideal to the grape, it can result in a smooth, supple and elegant red wine certain to capture and captivate one’s taste buds.   In 2001, Markham Vineyards (“Markham”) produced a Reserve Merlot worthy of such accomplishment.

What does “Reserve” mean?

One of the greatest secrets in the wine industry is that there is no legal definition for the word “Reserve”.   This means that the word “Reserve” is particular and independent to the winery in question.    On the bright side, it could denote that higher quality grapes are used, estate grapes are used or that a particular vintner made the wine, etc.   On a darker side, it could also be a marketing ploy to imply quality when that is not the case.   As a result, if you are visiting a winery and you see a “reserve” wine on the list, do not jump to conclusions.   Simply ask your tasting room assistant for the meaning of the word in relation to the winery and more importantly, let your taste buds make the decision for yourself.   Much about wine appreciation truly stems from what you  like and in the case of “reserve” wines, your palate will not mislead you.

With respect to the 2001 Reserve Merlot that Markham produced, there is not a shadow of a doubt that quality fruit and quality winemaking were involved in this wine.  If elegance could emerge from a bottle, it does here.   One characteristic of a quality Merlot is the coloring of the wine in the glass.   While the grape itself may be a beautiful shade of blue-black, the wine will result in a medium to dark-red color.  Here, the 2001 Reserve Merlot is of similar coloring.   Further demonstrating its quality, the wine is velvety on the palate and nuances of raspberry, cherry, tobacco and dark chocolate lilt through the mouth, flirting with one’s taste buds.   Any prior misperception of Merlot softens instantly and before you are even aware, a slow relaxed smile has already crept across your face.   While the complexity of multi-layers of flavors and aromas are not present, this does not detract from the wine itself.   Sometimes when something is simple, but done exceptionally well, it is better.   It immediately grabs hold of your senses and continues to present a full round, supple velvety mouth feel until the wine itself is simply fading into the horizon.   This wine exudes a simple strong elegance and results in being simply sensual.

With this in mind, an array of recipes comes to mind.  However, given that winter still strongly grips Napa Valley in January with colder temperatures and driving rain, something warm, sensual and comforting appropriately pairs:

·         Italian Sausage Beef-Bolognese Lasagna

When the dregs of winter arrive in January, there is no room for polite meals.  Instead the warmth and comfort of a good red sauce, pasta noodles and cheese command center stage.    Despite the spices in the Lasagna, the wine is not overwhelmed.   It stands up well and holds its own alongside this Lasagna (which has sautéed sweet onion, garlic, diced tomatoes, and a cabernet marinara sauce).   The cheeses involved (ricotta, parmesan and mozzarella) are soft and comforting similar to the wine.

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Finishing the meal, it is easy to pour an additional glass of the Markham 2001 Reserve Merlot and simply sip with sheer enjoyment.   By itself, the wine is relaxing, elegantly sensual and the notion of “comfort” personified.  With such a description it is easy to understand how this particular wine can enchant the senses and leave one delightfully dizzy and moreover, mad for merlot.

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