January in Napa Valley typically brings strong rainstorms from the Pacific Ocean, creating cold dark and stormy nights.    Candles are lit in living rooms and the air outside is permeated with the smell of wood fires burning in neighboring fireplaces.   As the winds bluster, the rain falls and a chill fills the air, it is only fitting to enjoy a warm red wine on such evenings.  

Charbono is a unique grape which (in the United States) is presently known to be only grown in California in Napa and Mendocino counties.  Compatible with winter weather, Charbono is a dark and brooding wine.   Mysterious by nature, not much is known about the Charbono grape except that it may originally hail from the Savoie region of France and that it can produce a typically tannic and acidic wine.   If made well, the wine is extremely dark in color, alluring to the nose, and characterized by black fruit flavors, a firm structure and a notable finish.   For those who are Cabernet Sauvignon fans, Charbono serves as a formidable challenger in the world of big, bold red wines.   Trying it, you will not be disappointed as you will secretly personalize your wine collection with the discovery of a beloved strong, rustic red wine (which many do not have, nor of which many are aware).

Selecting a Charbono to feature is an easy task as I have a favorite in the few that are made in Napa Valley.   Elyse Winery (“Elyse”) in Yountville has a second label, Jacob Franklin.    Under that Jacob Franklin label, the winery produces a Charbono.  Having recently obtained access to the new 2007 vintage of the Jacob Franklin Charbono, I was excited to not only try the new release but feature it since it is one of my favorite wines.

Opening the Jacob Franklin 2007 Charbono, the cork reflects promise as it is stained by dark, inky wine.   As the wine pours into the glass, its appearance is dark (if not black) and the nose is met by aromas of spice, smoke, leather and dark fruit.  On the palate, the acidity of the Charbono is readily noted with flavors of black plum, black cherry, a slightly earthy component and a finish noting flavors of anise and a hint of smoke.   The 2007 vintage contains twelve percent (12%) of Barbera which lends a slighter brighter taste to the otherwise dark fruit in this wine.    Not to disappoint, the Charbono rolls smoothly across the palate with a notable finish that lingers just long enough to entice another pour.

While easily enjoyable on its own, the Jacob Franklin 2007 Charbono is an excellent wine to pair with food.   With the combination of acidity, tannins and dark flavors, the pairing possibilities are endless.   If someone hunts or is a fan of “wild game”, Charbono serves well alongside fattier sides of protein.  This is not to imply that vegetarians should veer away from food pairings with Charbono.    Because of the notes in the wine, earthier flavors found in fennel, spinach and mushrooms pair well, too.   And if someone is a lover of Italian comfort food, this wine will go marvelously with hearty lasagna.   This week, however, to demonstrate the versatility of this wine, the menu holds:

·         Roasted Fennel Topped With Italian Sausage and Mushrooms on a bed of Sautéed Spinach With Minced Garlic and Dressed With Parmesan Cheese Shavings

Each ingredient in the above dish is purposefully included based on the aromas, flavors or elements found in the wine.   As previously noted, spinach, fennel and mushrooms compliment the earthy components experienced in the Charbono.   The fennel was sliced relatively thinly before being roasted in some white wine and a bit of balsamic vinegar.  Once roasted it is placed atop the bed of spinach and then topped with sautéed crimini mushroom slices and crumbled brown Italian sausage.    The fatty consistency of the Italian sausage helps cut the tannins in the wine and the seasonings also compliment the wine’s spicier components.   Adding shaved Parmesan on top of the meal simulates the wine’s smooth finish.

Taking in the various flavors of the meal with the Charbono creates a rich, robust myriad of flavors which induce rustic senses and invoke dreams of old world charm.   In the glass, the Jacob Franklin Charbono is delicious, smooth, dark and enticing, as if beckoning the bottle for another glass.   And as rain continues to visit Napa Valley, a glass of Charbono warms on a cold, dark and stormy night.