Agli-what????   Aglianico, pronounced “Ah-lee-on-ee-koh”, is as unique as it sounds.   Grown most recognizably in Southern Italy, only a handful of growers in California grow this black grape.   The grape itself thrives in a bed of volcanic and rocky soil, seeking hot temperatures to spur its growth.  Taking this into consideration, there are certainly areas in Napa Valley where the grape would thrive.   While the Aglianico grape remains a mystery to many, there are a few growers in wine country who have plantings and harvest annually.    When it is found made well, the grape is used to create big bold dynamic red wines.

The Aglianico grape made into wine by itself can produce a burly, tannic red wine which frequently merits aging post-release.    However, the wait is worthwhile because the wine renders most notably a cherry flavor not found predominantly in other wines or blends.    Add this component to notes of leather, earth-like components, firm tannins and a lingering finish, Aglianico can become a unique red wine to give a hearty Cabernet Sauvignon a run for its money.   

Benessere Vineyards (“Benessere”), known for specializing in creating top notch Italian varietals in Napa Valley, is fortunate to neighbor a vineyard that grows Aglianico grapes.    Years ago, winemaker Chris Dearden produced an Aglianico wine which after some years of cellaring was a delicious unique alternative for the traditional big red wine.   But no sooner had the word been whispered through Napa Valley that this Aglianico was “ready” and it sold out.    Fortunately, Benessere continues to produce a wine, called “Sorridente”, incorporating Aglianico grapes such that one’s wine collection can remain diverse.   However, the wine is a blend (which is also a typical Italian varietal blend found in Italy), in which Aglianico grapes are introduced to percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.   Once the 2006 vintage is released for purchase, it is a blend of simply Aglianico and Merlot.    For the purposes of this article, I have pulled a 2003 Sorridente from my collection.

To test the merit of Aglianico’s ability to age, I have set aside a bottle of Sorridente from the following years:  2003, 2004, and 2005.    Sorridente has always been a favorite wine of mine given its unique character and its ability to dance across the palate with a lively lingering finish.   Given that the wine from these years is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Aglianico, you readily recognize components of all three grapes in the blend:  dark berry fruit, leather and tobacco from the Cabernet Sauvignon; smooth mid-palate fruit of the Merlot; and cherry, spice and notable tannins from the Aglianico.   As a wine ages, the fruit generally subsides and the tannins soften.    Opening the bottle of the 2003 Sorridente, the nose was met by black cherry aromas and similar bright flavors on the palate due to the predominate Aglianico.  However, given that the wine was allowed to cellar for a couple of years, there was a predominant smooth character to the wine which would not normally be found upon immediate release.    As a result, while the wine still exhibited tannins for structure, its smooth character shows off sophistication while being celebrated by cherry and spice from the Aglianico.

Since the Sorridente is an Italian varietal, and a substantive red wine, a traditional filling Italian dish is fitting.   This week’s menu simple hosts:

·         Zucchini Lasagna

Do not be fooled by the name “Zucchini Lasagna”.    The dish is not vegetarian, however, to give a unique and healthy twist, it does not use any pasta noodles.    To substitute for lasagna noodles, zucchini was cut into long strips, approximately 1/8^th of an inch thick.   Once cut, the slices were allowed to sit out on paper towels to absorb some moisture.   During this time I prepared a seasoned browned meat with sautéed sweet onions, chopped garden-fresh Black from Tula heirloom tomatoes and with marinara sauce.    Once simmered to cook off some of the excess liquid, the zucchini strips have dried a bit in the air and are ready for assembly.    Putting together the lasagna, (layering on ricotta, the meat and sauce mixture, shredded mozzarella, and then another layer of zucchini strips and repeated), the key is to layer the ingredients in a manner such that the liquid of the meat sauce does not sitting entirely directly on the zucchini.   Zucchini by nature releases water as it cooks and if in contact with too much liquid from the sauce, the lasagna would risk being runny and not holding together.   However, layering as done, the zucchini cooked to a perfect tenderness yet with enough substance and crispness to hold together as bona fide lasagna.  

Once the Sorridente is paired with the Zucchini Lasagna, a lively meal ensues.   The marinara sauce and sweet onions tango dynamically with the bright cherry flavor contributed by the Aglianico in the wine.   The zucchini brings forth the earthier notes from the Cabernet Sauvignon in this blend and the Merlot adds that certain indescribable smoothness that rounds out this blend wine.    And the meal itself?   It is filling without leaving one with a heavy feeling.  

If you are a fan of big bold red wine, start exploring Aglianico or Aglianico blend wines.    They have a brighter, spicier character than Cabernet Sauvignon wines, are certainly something unique to add to a growing wine collection and will spark interesting discussion among guests.