Jul 29 2009

Summer Afternoon Affair: Pinot Grigio

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It is a lazy summer afternoon in Napa Valley.   The sun is warm, and the breeze is gentle.   Tasks mount on many a to-do list, but there is an undeniable sense in the air that no one is in a hurry.   Below, the blades of grass are soft between your bare toes and above, the sky is a flawless, perfect powder blue.   The ever-present fragrance of blooming roses draws your senses into closer focus, enticing you to slow down even more and remember that it is not just a proverbial notion to “stop and smell the roses.”    On afternoons such as these, it is easy to abandon daily responsibilities and instead invite friends over for a late afternoon lunch outdoors.    Given the weather and the mood, it is natural to want to reach for a truly stand-out wine that will hold its own, yet find its place in perfect harmony with the immediate environment.    Certainly there are many choices to consider, but my immediate selection is intuitive, natural and without a second thought:   Benessere Vineyards’s Pinot Grigio.

Pinot Grigio (or also referred to as “Pinot Gris”) is an Italian white wine whose grape is often referred to as the white grape variant of Pinot Noir.  Benessere Vineyards (“Benessere” meaning “well being” in Italian) alleges that Pinot Grigio is the second most popular white wine in the United States,  yet surprisingly, Pinot Grigio often receives mixed reviews in the United States.    I have generally found at other wineries that the acidity is not in balance with the rest of the wine and the flavors experienced on the palate might be too tart or biting.   The acidity will lessen in the wine if the Pinot Grigio grapes are picked when closer to being fully ripe.   Similarly, if picked closer to full ripeness, the grapes will also provide a sweeter flavor in the wine.  I have found that I prefer a fuller bodied Pinot Grigio with luscious fruit, which is the result of harvesting technique and skilled vinification.    If you are truly looking for the best Pinot Grigio in Napa Valley, it is common word of mouth among many locals that you will find it at Benessere, made by well-regarded and talented winemaker Chris Dearden.

Years ago I was wine tasting with a good friend and she mentioned that we had to stop by Benessere to taste the Pinot Grigio because it was rumored to be “insane”.    That day in late July, we substantiated that rumor and became quick fans of Benessere’s Pinot Grigio.    I still remember my first tasting of it:   the beautiful aromas of tropical fruit, peach, and a hint of Meyer Lemon on the nose, transitioning poetically to the palate with a combination of similar fruit, a dash of acidity and perfect balance rendering a silky smooth wine which coasts off the palate.   Benessere’s Pinot Grigio is a wine that I always introduce to anyone who goes wine tasting with me.    Everyone’s reaction is typically the same:   their eyes bug out and they wildly exclaim, “This IS  insane!    Insanely good!     This past fall I learned that I am not alone in having a strong memory of my first tasting of this Pinot Grigio.   A friend confided to me that ever since she had tasted it in the tasting room, she had been “dreaming” about this wine.    

Benessere’s Pinot Grigio has fortunately also shown consistency over the years.    There has not been a year where the wine has not been good, although there have been a few years where the wine has just been outstanding and did garner a 90 point rating from The Wine Enthusiast.    Generally its ratings are a point or two below that.  

This Pinot Grigio in particular is a beautiful wine to pair with food.    The typical pairing recommendations lean towards seafood, chicken and cheese plates.    But, having been a fan of Benessere’s Pinot Grigio for so many years, I also recognize that it pairs well with certain vegetarian dishes provided that they are not tomato based (acidity in tomatoes will throw this wine off-balance).    Given that I am creating a menu for a lazy late summer afternoon lunch this week, below follows what I chose to specifically create for this wine and food pairing:

1)       Cucumber White Grape Gazpacho;

2)     Avocado Zucchini Sandwiches with Jack Cheese on Sourdough Bread; and

3)     Key Lime Sugar Cookies.

Frequently during the warmer summer months, I long for refreshing recipes which are cool and easy to prepare.    All too often, when first seeking “refreshing,” people immediately think of citrus.    Given that this Pinot Grigio’s acidity is in perfect balance, you will want to veer away from recipes dominated by citrus.    As an alternative, consider cucumber.    Presently my vegetable garden is producing two or three cucumbers a week.    Wanting to again practice sustainability, I utilized garden fresh cucumbers to create a Cucumber White Grape Gazpacho.   As many of you well know, gazpachos are a refreshing chilled soup.   Gazpachos are perfect for warm summer days when you do not want to cook.   The traditional recipes for gazpacho, however, call for tomatoes and lime juice.   Given the Pinot Grigio pairing, a perfect alternative for a refreshing chilled gazpacho is to create a Cucumber White Grape Gazpacho.   Chilled cucumber soups have long been a part of California cuisine and can date back to menus in early California state history.    Including Cucumber White Grape Gazpacho in this menu is also a nice cultural tribute to California wine and food.   To give my gazpacho some body, I decided to also incorporate some chunks of the sourdough bread which I am going to use later to create my sandwiches.     This inclusion is also intentional from a different perspective.   By adding some sourdough bread, it ties the gazpacho to the sandwiches, creating a sense of balance.    And, as an additional bonus, like Benessere’s tasting notes correctly suggest, sourdough bread is a wonderful accompaniment to this Pinot Grigio.   

gazpacho

Tasting the Cucumber White Grape Gazpacho with the wine confirms my wine and food pairing suspicions.   The gazpacho hosts primarily flavors of fresh cucumber, sweet seedless grapes and a hint of sour from the bread.   This Pinot Grigio has long been known to be refreshing, which I attribute partially to the wine’s lightly crisp entry on the front of the palate.    The Cucumber White Grape Gazpacho is a lovely accompaniment to the wine, as it is equally refreshing and greets the Pinot Grigio as if to introduce a fresh, carefree summer affair.    

Next I have created Avocado Zucchini Sandwiches with Jack Cheese on Sourdough Bread.    This again is a great seasonal idea for summer as avocados are in abundance at produce stands and farmers markets (if not your yard) and my ever prolific zucchini plant in the garden boasts a beautiful ripe zucchini ready for grating.    The trick to these sandwiches is to toast them in the oven.   Placing avocado slices on the sourdough bread, then grated zucchini, and topped with freshly grated jack cheese, the open-face sandwich ensemble is tucked into the oven just long enough to melt the cheese, soften the avocado and tie the flavors together.   

sandwiches  sandwiches-full

While the ingredients may sound initially bland, rest assured that I have added two secret ingredients to the zucchini to give it a little zip.    Once the sandwiches are toasted, I drizzled some Italian style dressing on the sandwich.    The result is a wonderfully filling sandwich which hosts incredibly smooth well-blended delicious flavors.   The buttery texture and consistency of the avocado is worthy of particular note because it complements the wine’s velvety texture and smooth balance of flavors.   The zucchini and avocado together present a nice rich fresh flavor, which is pleasantly balanced by the sourdough bread and the tangy semi-sharp flavor of the jack cheese.   The sandwich, like the gazpacho, acknowledges the initial crisp flavor of the Pinot Grigio but as you sip the wine while eating, the ambrosial fruit flavors of the wine leaves a delightful, yet wistful sweet twist at the back of the palate.

 gazpacho-sandwich  gazpacho-sandwiches-full

To finish this summertime afternoon meal, my Key Lime Sugar Cookies are a perfect dessert pairing with Pinot Grigio.    As I mentioned above, generally when pairing food with Pinot Grigio, you want to avoid matching citrus fruits because it will throw off the balance of acidity in the wine.    However, my recipe for Key Lime Sugar Cookies is a unique exception because I have created a sugar cookie which is delicate, crisp, melts in your mouth, and only leaves a hint of Key Lime aftertaste on your palate.    It is the incorporation of just a hint of citrus which keeps the wine and food pairing in balance and gives a nod to the note of Meyer Lemon that I find in Benessere’s Pinot Grigio. 

key-lime-sugar-cookies

Ultimately, Benessere’s Pinot Grigio to my knowledge has yet to disappoint.    It is a wonderful companion to a lazy summer afternoon but if you continue to follow my articles this year, you will find that this white wine also drinks well no matter the season.    For the time being, this wine is much like a favorite fun friend who you will always invite to any backyard gathering because it is known for its balance, delicious array of fruit flavors, and its enchanting easy going nature.   

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*Benessere Vineyards is located on Big Tree Road, off of Highway 29, just north of St. Helena.    Benessere Vineyards is recognized for its Italian Varietals, its friendly hospitality staff, and its talented winemaker as many of his wines are highly rated and well-regarded.   

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