The holidays are upon us and holiday celebrations are in full swing.   Whether they are large gatherings or simple dinners among close friends, there are people to entertain and hearty food to serve.

Red wines abound at the holidays as the weather dips in temperature and people begin to reach for those darker, rich, tannic and robust red wines.   Cabernet Sauvignon is opened at holiday parties left and right, but there are plenty of opportunities for other varietals to shine and particularly when paired with food.

Some wines which by themselves might seem too tannic or uniquely acidic despite being a red wine find a perfect place alongside certain traditional dishes that are served during the holidays and the upcoming winter months.   One in particular is a unique wine that originates in Umbria, Italy but can be found at Benessere Vineyards in Napa Valley: Sagrantino.

Sagrantino is an Italian varietal that is grown in Umbria, in only a small total of 250 acres and with only approximately 25 growers involved.   The grape itself creates distinctly tannic red wines that are nearly inky black and yield a unique acidity that is not comparable to any other varietal.   Its flavor notes can yield cinnamon, plum, earth, orange citrus and chocolate.   That simple description fits with many aspects of Christmas.

In Napa Valley, Benessere Vineyards (“Benessere”) makes a Sagrantino and presently has it available for purchase in its tasting room.   The grapes are grown on the estate and the present vintage available is the 2010 Sagrantino.   2010 was a very challenging year for Napa Valley as it was one of the coldest growing years in decades.   Many red varietals and white varietals struggled that year to ripen and yields were very small.   Yet in 2010, certain varietals did exceptionally well in Napa Valley.   Sagrantino happens to be one of those wines as the growing conditions of 2010 allowed the grapes to develop flavors yielding great depth and structure.

Benessere’s 2010 Sagrantino presents a lovely bouquet that is gently herbaceous, forest moss, subtle aromas of mushrooms and a hint of forest floor.  On the palate, there are flavors of traditional plum accompanied by delicious notes of milk chocolate with candied orange peel.   The wine is tannic but it is countered by a lovely acidity that makes the 2010 vintage approachable now.   It is a unique wine but one that is seasonally fitting.

To pair with food, the 2010 vintage of the Sagrantino can easily pair with chocolate mousse, chocolate hazelnut torte with candied orange peel or homemade fudge.  It is an easy wine to enjoy with some of the sweet treats of Christmas but similarly it can be the star of the dinner table and pair with rich main courses.   To show off its pairing ability, this menu hosts:

• ·         Braised Chuck Roast with Orange Zest with Red Wine Shallot Reduction Sauce atop Creamy Polenta with Sauteed Crimini Mushrooms

This dish welcomes winter in many senses as it uses lemon thyme, cloves, seasonal orange citrus, cumin, and a hearty red wine to braise this roast into a seasonal celebration of flavor.  It warms the soul and brings a sense of comfort on a cold December night.   The sauce is a lovely red wine, shallot and thyme reduction sauce that folds in the drippings of the roast.  Crimini mushrooms are sautéed with lemon thyme from the garden.

To brighten the roast, I have used some zest from some oranges picked from my tree.  Despite recent cold temperatures, my orange tree is in full swing as citrus is in season at this time of year.  Bits of orange zest from the roast brighten an otherwise potentially heavy meal and deliciously embrace the acidity in the Sagrantino allowing bright delicious fun fruit to race forward.

Each bite and sip feels like a happy culinary celebration.  Similarly a creamy polenta delivers a rustic element that can take the quintessential arm chair tourist on a jaunt to rural Italy.  The fat of the butter and cheese used in the polenta cut the tannins in the wine. Despite being a unique varietal, with the right food the wine is a seamless transition.

This is a wonderful hearty meal that does not overly stuff one but instead leaves one content, full of good food, great wine and jubilant conversation with those others lucky enough to have been invited.  Cheers!