Why yes!  Even though it is late May and most of the United States this very week is heating up to encourage an early arrival of hot summer days, I do say “Cabernet” . . .  I just say “Cabernet Franc” with unbridled enthusiasm.

Hot weather screams for crisp white wines, the icy nature of chilled rosés (fruity or dry) or the refreshing bubbles of sparkling wine.   The mere thought makes me long for shady late warm afternoons with a plate hosting some simple seasonal fruit or sugar snap peas from the garden, a bit of cheese and nuts upon which to nibble.

Yet not everyone enjoys the traditional summer wines and some simply are staunch red wine drinkers.   Even on a warm evening while a barbeque grill slowly smokes in the backyard, these wine aficionados will lovingly swirl and sip those red wines.   I cannot fault them (or even those who dedicatedly isolate themselves indoors with the air conditioning blasting just to enjoy a good Cabernet Sauvignon with a summer steak).   Despite their die hard commitment to the summer consumption of red wine, I do recommend less tannin.   Tannins are drying and frequently red wines that hold them in abundance are lumbering and heavy (which is not comforting in warm summer weather).   Nor do tannic wines pair well with spicy food which can frequently emerge from summer barbeque grills.

There are, however, a number of red wines that are less tannic and ironically, one such red wine in particular that can romance the sentiment of June:   Cabernet Franc.   If you have yet to experience a bottle consisting of 100% of this varietal, you have been missing out.  Cabernet Franc often is a party in your mouth.  It flirts on the front of the palate and then entertains vividly and dynamicly across the middle of the palate.   While not known for a long lingering finish (like Cabernet Sauvignon), it also does not simply shut off and fall into an abyss either.   Similarly, Cabernet Franc can be just as elegant and sophisticated as Cabernet Sauvignon and if you are fortunate enough, you will find a winery that will introduce you to an enduring love affair.

Casa Nuestra Winery (“Casa Nuestra”) is a small family-owned winery located in St. Helena, Napa Valley, which produces Cabernet Franc wines which will enamor your palate from the first sip.  The winery, which commenced operation in 1979, began its Cabernet Franc program in 1986.   Since that date, the 2008 vintage of the winery’s Cabernet Franc is the most concentrated yet.  Only 354 cases were produced of this vintage and given Casa Nuestra’s reputation among locals in Napa Valley, it is a surprise that this vintage has not yet sold out.  The winery itself makes almost all of its wines from its organic vineyards and operates in three solar powered buildings.  The winery is also known for specializing in wines of special interest so the true connoisseur can explore a variety of varietals that are not standard fare at other wineries in Napa Valley.  If you are in Napa Valley now, call in advance to visit the folks at Casa Nuestra (meaning “our house”) and you will be able to taste a wide variety of hand-crafted unique varietals, including the 2008 Cabernet Franc.

Casa Nuestra hands down makes my favorite Cabernet Franc.  It is not only a party, but it is like a top notch symphony accompanies it on the palate.  Two summers ago, I featured the 2006 vintage on this site and since then, it has been my habit to pick up a couple of bottles the winery’s vintage and tuck them away to cellar.   Given that the 2008 vintage is still offered for sale on Casa Nuestra’s web site, there is still opportunity to enjoy what I am about to describe.

First, the wine’s appearance is romantic.  It is deep plum yet has a rich ruby edging.   Depending on when and where you are enjoying the wine, the light will catch and reflect in this edging and it accentuates its jewel-like aspects further.   Next, the bouquet brings rapture to one’s olfactory senses:  lively and fresh aromas of ripe Bing cherries are accompanied by cola and gentle sprinkle of anise.  The bouquet of the wine is tender on the nose, yet subtly coaxing.  Finally, in the mouth, this 2008 Cabernet Franc does not disappoint.   Rich full fruit lumbers across the mid-palate in a wake of velvety texture.  The front of the palate is splashed with delicious cherry cola before the wine explodes onto the mid-palate with cherries becoming roasted in flavor coupled with ripe blackberries and hints of caramelized Vidalia onion.  The wine finishes leaving your palate mesmerized and lingering over chewy candied black cherry.  The wine in its bottle tastes as though it has ripened all on its own, affixed to the vine in the St. Helena summer sun.

Given that Cabernet Franc is not recognizably tannic and has a known propensity to pair well with earthy flavors, this week’s menu hosts:

• Roasted Mushroom Gorgonzola Potatoes Au Gratin

Potatoes are an ingredient that must be paired carefully with wine.   Given the high starch content, this can often distract from the wine and throw the wine’s flavors off for your palate.  Nevertheless, if the potato is simply an ingredient and properly augmented in a structured dish, it can become a meal that can pair with less tannic red wines such as Cabernet Franc.

In this week’s dish, I elected to present a varying structure of flavors to the traditional recipe of “potatoes au gratin”.   Thin slices of sweet red bell pepper constitute one layer.  Slices of white button and porcini mushrooms are roasted with garlic, sage, rosemary and thyme to create additional layers and the earthy flavors for which Cabernet Franc yearns.   Similarly, stepping away from the simple flavor of cream, a mild gorgonzola is integrated into the sauce that is layered between the layers.   To finish, the traditional sprinkling of fresh grated parmesan sits on top and is adorned with pieces of cooked applewood smoked bacon.   Again, the even the bacon ingredient is brought up a notch to bring in that earthy smoky flavor that will ultimately create depth in the dish as a whole.

For those who have met my golden retriever who has visited dog friendly wineries in Napa Valley and was featured on a local Bay Area television station, you can only imagine the torture she endured while this dish was baking in the oven.   A staunch lover of cheese, as this dish baked with the cheese, the herbs, the mushrooms and the bacon, my casual canine parked herself on the kitchen floor dutifully and whimpered in anticipation for the duration of the dish’s baking.

Who could blame my dog for whimpering when this emerges?

It is no surprise that given the ingredients that Cabernet Franc cozies right up to this dish.   Casa Nuestra’s 2008 Cabernet Franc found its place with this involved potatoes au gratin.   It heartily embraced the applewood smoked bacon, savory medley of herbs, the earthiness of the mushrooms and turned delicious sommersaults of flavor in the creaminess of the cheese.   And just like the 2006 vintage, the 2008 vintage confirms that applewood smoked bacon is its soulful food-pairing match.

Casa Nuestra’s 2008 Cabernet Franc is utterly delicious on its own and can be simply sipped and savored. It is a varietal that you want to linger with and get to know just a little bit better.  There is no rush with this 2008 Cabernet Franc (aside from the rush to obtain it).  It is a conversation piece and it can hold its own with a meal.  It shows a style and structure that only comes from the hand of a vintner at a small family-owned winery:  a winemaking hand that is not rushed by whim or public demand but in tandem with Mother Nature.