Mar 14 2012

Pairing Petite Sirah

Published by at 5:41 pm under Barbeque,Beef,Burgers,Food,Petite Sirah,Red Wine,Zinfandel

 

Despite knowing numerous wine varietals well, Petite Sirah is always a varietal that causes me pause when pairing with cuisine.  In a tasting room, Petite Sirah often emerges in a glass as dark and mysterious, with a seductive nose, an involved flavor profile and with tannins ready to rival Cabernet Sauvignon.   It is a “thinker’s wine”, so to speak, as you can easily lose yourself  in a few ounces of Petite Sirah as you decipher what exactly is it that you are tasting.

 

This week I decided to solicit my friends for some reasonable food pairing ideas.  Right out of the gate, one friend suggested “boar”.  Boar… there is nothing reasonable about boar.  Then the conversation shifted to rabbit.   Before it could venture down the predictable path of wild game ideas, another friend suggested jokingly “tall, dark and handsome”, which got me thinking about wine varietals.  

 

Petite Sirah is one of the dark grapes that are often referred to as “black grapes”.   This is largely due to the dark skin of the grape itself, however, if you have ever uncorked a bottle of Petite Sirah you have seen exactly how inky and dark the end of the cork is.  If you are not careful, you will stain a countertop, your shirt cuff or your hands.  It will leave a permanent stain on a white piece of paper should you stamp it with the cork.   Similarly, Petite Sirah is known for its tannins (among many other attributes).  This ironically makes it a terrific candidate for pairing with wild game, that is should you get the inclination to serve it or order it in a restaurant.  So should someone challenge you to serve boar, clearly you know what wine varietal to serve.

 

Petite Sirah, however, is such an interesting varietal.   The fruit naturally is largely influenced by the soil from where the vines grow and so each vintage’s identity is highly vineyard specific.  It can also age for about ten years and often is far better with a couple of hours of decanting.   This is due to those tannins and oxidation is this varietal’s friend.  Similarly there is a distinct acidity to the wine which lends itself to tart berry juice flavors intermingled with spices, oak, and chocolate.  Because of these qualities, it also pairs very nicely with grilled meats (which is a far more reasonable pairing than, well, boar). 

 

A pleasant surprise about Petite Sirah is that you can find an affordable vintage that delivers just as much punch and bold character as an expensive Cabernet Sauvignon.  For under $30 a bottle, Girard Winery (“Girard”) in Yountville consistently delivers a quality Petite Sirah made from old vines.  One of the vineyards used for this bottling contains grape vines that are over one hundred years old.  Again, for this price point, Girard delivers a tremendous amount of quality.

 

Selecting a 2006 vintage of Girard’s Petite Sirah from my wine collection, the cork emerged from the bottle with its trademark inky dark cork.   The shade of purple that the wine has exceeds eggplant and is akin to something close to the darkest of night.  The wine cork immediately stains your hand and guarantees that it will stain your teeth.  In the glass, the wine’s color is dark and takes brooding to a new level.  Since the wine has had six years to age in the bottle, the edges of the wine show a rosy hint of plum.  Similarly the wine’s legs extend down the glass slow and seductively.   There simply is no rush with this wine.

The bouquet for the 2006 Girard Petite Sirah offers aromas of blueberry, currant, chocolate, coffee, an herbal hint of thyme and toasted oak.  If you are in Napa Valley on a wet late winter day, find yourself standing in a vineyard where the earth is still a bit wet, this wine’s bouquet is akin.   On the palate the wine is still terribly intense.   The texture is silky smooth (and increasingly velvety the longer the wine is allowed to decant) and the flavor profile is reminiscent of fresh cherries and blueberries (lending recognition to acidity).   Tannins are indeed notable although they are remarkably finely woven into the wine.  The longer the wine decants, its flavors unfurl and becomes utterly delicious.

 

This is shaping up to be a serious affair which thus merits some serious cuisine.  The conversation with my friends did eventually move away from boar and with some thought I suggested that I create Balsamic Burgers.   As such, this week’s menu hosts:

 

1)      Balsamic Rosemary Burgers with Red Onion, Spinach and Balsamic Thyme Mayonnaise; and

2)     Mini Casseroles of Asparagus, Mushrooms, Parmesan Cheese and Bacon.

 

 

Reducing balsamic vinegar into a sauce with some red wine, it is gently worked into lean ground beef with minced fresh rosemary and freshly ground black pepper.   A charcoal grill is heated and the burgers are placed out to slowly grill.  This burger is a red wine drinker’s dream and you will not miss the cheese.  If you simply must have cheese, Petite Sirah will pair wonderfully with dry aged jack cheese or parmesan.  Instead of lettuce, fresh leaves of spinach are place on a grilled buttered whole wheat hamburger bun.  One of my friends suggested slices of red onion and he could not have been more seasonally correct.   Onions are just coming into season as we near spring.   Since it is earlier in the year, red onion has a milder, flavorful taste that borders sweet.  This will create depth and a wonderful contrast to the spinach and the flavors in the burger.  A mayonnaise is made with balsamic vinegar, herbs and notably fresh thyme.

 

This is the new spring burger that is perfect for grilling on a 65 degree day.  With the Petite Sirah, the burger is deliciously woodsy and a nearby smoking charcoal grill adds ambience.  The pairing can enliven a cloudy spring day and turn even a shy Petite Sirah fan into an arduous lover.

 

As a petite gourmet side surprise, a mini casserole is created that has plate and palate appeal.  Bits of asparagus are first quickly blanched before layered with sautéed mushrooms, fresh thyme, parmesan cheese and bits of bacon.   The ensemble is baked at the last minute to provide a delicious transitional medley of winter and spring flavors that perfectly compliment Petite Sirah and allow its spices and herbs to step forth.   When paired together, the fruit found in the wine becomes almost jam-like.

 

So perhaps I was not adventurous enough to use boar as my instigating friends might have liked, but there is no way that you could not be wild about my Balsamic Burger and have a new regard for Petite Sirah.   The combination of the two leads those dining at your table on a culinary adventure discovering tremendously satisfying, varied layers of flavor and depth.

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