Dec 06 2011

The Magic of Merlot

Published by at 7:43 pm under Food,Merlot,Red Wine,Soup/Gazpacho

Exactly one year ago this week, I met and became friends with a colleague who shared my love of wine and food pairing.   Throughout the course of the past year, whenever the topic of wine and food pairing would arise, my colleague would always suggest Merlot with thoughtful remembrance.   Perhaps it was due to the varietal’s versatility in pairings and characteristic soft round mouth feel that would inspire his predictable suggestion.  However, as time wore on, it came about that it so happened that Merlot was his wife’s favorite varietal.   Individual thoughtfulness and delightful as Merlot can be, to this date I believe that my colleague’s dependable suggestion was instead driven out of a genuine endearing fondness for his wife.

While Merlot may have a soft spot in that couple’s relationship, it is a varietal that should never be overlooked.   Its soft comforting red profile can turn velvety if well-grown grapes are later equally aged well.   When these two aspects come together, this wine varietal can trigger a lasting love affair with merited dedication.

Markham Vineyards (“Markham”) has been recognized for its past Reserve Merlot vintages and while the vineyard that supplied those grapes is long gone, it merely means that the vintner can focus more acute attention to the Merlot vintage that the winery distributes nationally.   For the consumer, this is a boon.   Couple in the fact that the winery’s current release is a 2007 vintage; suddenly a moderately priced Merlot can readily compete with those in the $50 a bottle range.   As a reminder, 2007 was a year in Napa Valley where a vintner simply could not go wrong with red wine grapes.   A combination of perfect weather and growing conditions and vintner’s were graced with text book perfection grapes to bottle.   Similarly, because the fruit was of such a wonderful quality and strength, the 2007 vintage wines will age well.   To realize that a bottle of Merlot sitting on your local grocer’s shelf will age wonderfully is a handy tip to turn a bottle into a nice investment (if you have the discipline to set it aside).

The wine sits in the glass with its classic dark ruby jewel tones welcoming the nose and the palate forth.   Its bouquet offers an array of aromas ranging from cherry, cola, vanilla, mocha, toast and herb.   Packed with personality of distinct tannins, Markham’s 2007 Merlot delivers on the palate with flavors of cherry, berries, chocolate and cream soda.   This is not merely a “best value” wine, it is flat out a steal.   It is rare to find a wine of this caliber in this price range and if you have a love for Merlot, you will want to place a few of these in your cellar to age over the next few years. 

Just as Merlot is a varietal suggestion that I fondly receive, similarly I have friends who suggest dishes from time to time.   Sitting in California, our winters are not that of the Midwest or the Northeast but eventually our cold chilling damp prolonged rains arrive and we, too, seek soul-warming comfort foods.

In October while I was basking in warm 70 to 80 degree days and coasting into a warm November, my friend James was starting to freeze in Wisconsin.  James is a highly adept home chef and has lived and studied extensively in France.  Being an amateur culinary heavyweight, James’ suggestions are always taken with careful consideration.   Since the inception of this web site, James has nudged me and asked, “What about some classic French cooking?”

Thinking of friend and colleagues as we find ourselves in the midst of this busy holiday season, this week’s menu hosts:

  • Kristin’s Tricked-Out Caramelized French Onion Soup with Portabella and Cheese Bread Dippers

There is a reason why Bordeaux originating varietals pair so closely and intuitively with the regional cuisine of France:   simply, there were intended to.

Depending on how French Onion soup is prepared, the result can be sweet, savory and decadent.   To commence, onions slowly caramelize in butter, lemon thyme and a bay leaf to become a sweet pile of goodness.   In order to take the recipe to a higher level, four types of naturally sweet onions of varying flavor profiles are added:   Vidalia, Maui, Shallot and Spring Onion.   Once caramelized, sherry deglazes the pan, to be followed by some unoaked chardonnay and ultimately combined with beef broth.  The staging of these ingredients is crucial as it give the onions a chance to absorb the flavors of each ingredient before taking on another.

 

The flavors of the soup are rich, sweet, delicious, succulent and harmonious.   While the flavor profile has depth, there is a readily recognizable softness in how the flavors seamlessly intertwine.   With a simple taste, it is intuitive that this soup will be a well-aligned match with Merlot.

Beef and red wine go together naturally but often we forget that soup pairs well with wine.   These pairings become harmonious when a beef-based broth meets a Bordeaux varietal.   While steak may not be on the plate, portabella mushrooms dunked in the French onion soup trigger the same palate pleasure points.

 

To glam up the portabella slices, they are slowly cooked in melted butter and minced herbs.   Herbs are fresh from the garden involving rosemary, marjoram and lemon thyme.   In the last stage of cooking balsamic vinegar is added to glaze the slices and allow them to caramelize.   Eaten alone, these are delicious; taken with the soup, they become a five-star meal.   Similarly the mushrooms also diversify the traditional bread and cheese dippers for the soup.

But why should one go “boring” with a bread and cheese dipper?   White Cheddar and Garlic Bread Slices are toasted and topped with shredded black pepper fontina to melt in the oven.  A guilty pleasure alone, dunked in the soup they become downright sinful.

So this winter, when inclement weather has you locked indoors, do not forget that soup can surprise you.  And while Merlot is patiently waiting for its invitation, do not let this varietal’s soft polite nature fool you.   Pair it with something native to its origins and let this varietal “wow” you and show off what it is intended to do.

Bundle up, stay warm, simmer some soup and sip a Bordeaux varietal.  It makes wintery weekends worth waiting for.

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