In the Bay Area, it is no secret that some of its warmest weather can arrive in October but when it arrives at the tail-end of the month, it is unexpected.   The days are increasingly shorter with the sun setting earlier each evening.  Nevertheless, when temperatures soar it takes little encouragement to leave an office early, wrap up obligations sooner and hustle outside to enjoy those last warm rays before rainy season.  

Similarly, in Napa Valley, 2011 has been a challenging growing season.  Harvest has been delayed at many wineries or at the very least, days for crushing are sporadic and drawn out.   Fighting early rain, humidity, sudden chilly temperatures and then a burst of hot days, the grapes of Napa Valley are giving it their final push to cross the harvest finish line.   If you happened to be driving through the valley on Monday, winery after winery posted signs along the road, “Crushing today!”  Never has an exclamation point been used so appropriately to reflect Napa Valley’s harvest sentiment:  enthusiasm, relief, invitation and joy.

Benessere Vineyards (“Benessere”), located in St. Helena, has long been known for its consistency in its winemaking and the quality of the grapes that it selects to make its wines.   Over a week ago I was visiting the winery and grapes hung readily from the vines.  These beauties were continuing to ripen and develop even though in the past harvest would have completed.  Members of the wine industry community held their breath and with a sudden burst of heat this past weekend, grapes were being picked and crushed on the crush pad behind the winery on Monday.

The cement was slick and sticky with grape juice, an errant grape landing here or there and shiny green stems piling up in a nearby bin.   With a taste of an estate Merlot grape, the juice was gently sweet and it was clear that harvest was worth the wait.

After the crushed grapes find its way to Benessere’s tanks, not all of that juice is destined to make the winery’s well-regarded red wines.   After twelve to eighteen hours of skin contact and prior to commencing fermentation, a small amount of juice is drained from various tanks.  The purpose of this is two-fold:  it will allow the wine to develop a deeper color and complexity and it can also be made into a delicious rosato wine.

In 2010, lightly colored drawn-off juice, consisting of 49% Zinfandel, 41% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot, was fermented separately in stainless steel to become Benessere’s Rosato.   While the Rosato is typical with its rosy blush, readily recognizable fruit profile and light acidity, the 2010 vintage is distinct in that it is slightly drier than prior vintages and more representative of the styles enjoyed in France and Italy today.   It is this drier style that is exceedingly refreshing on an unexpected warm day and encourages the carefree spirit that perhaps nudged you out of our office a few hours early.

Growing up in Southern California, it was not uncommon to see a rosy blush wine such as a Rosato on a back patio table when family, neighbors or friends would drop by to visit.   Similarly in the 1970’s, entertaining existed in the style of quickly combining ingredients that were growing in the backyard, seasonal or simply on hand.  My parents had a simple recipe for “California Sandwiches” which used whole wheat English muffins, bacon, sharp cheddar cheese, tomato and avocado.

While the combination sounds simple, when the ingredients combine the smells thereof trigger memories of my dad being tasked with the cheese grater and later mashing avocados from a neighbor’s tree, my mom frying bacon and family guests casually sipping at Rosado without a care in the world and no hurry ahead.   Whether it was a quiet Sunday evening as the sun slowly sank in the distance behind the might Pacific, a late Tuesday night when someone was too tired to cook or in someone else’s kitchen across the country . . . it was not about whether this was the “best”, it was about the simple combination of flavors that creatively livened the palate and inspired conversation.   It was about enjoying the people with you in that moment and enjoying that which the moment brought to you.

Today this combination of ingredients may perhaps seem “mainstream”.  However, in the 1970’s, this was true Southern California fare.  It offered a degree of healthiness, fresh local (if not backyard) ingredients and a sense of sustainability using what you had on the pantry shelf.  If we found ourselves elsewhere, friends would find such a combination creative and to a young “me”, the cheddar melted the same through every oven window.  Yet no matter where we were, I sensed that our California lifestyle was there, too.

This week, in honor of the unexpected hustle and bustle of harvest and the sudden bursts of warm weather in the Bay Area, pulling a bottle of Benessere’s Rosato is almost celebratory.  Its casual and carefree nature fits into any dining scenario and is a welcomed addition to any wine rack.  It pairs well with beef, bacon, cheddar cheese and grilled vegetables.   Pairing with my parents’ “California Sandwiches” is like a soul mate as its acidity is balanced by the tomato in the sandwich, the riper strawberry notes become fuller with bacon and the cheddar cheese almost encourage bits of herb on the palate.   Avocado is gently mashed with some Meyer lemon and seasoning salt and a baked whole wheat English muffin absorbs the flavors of the other remaining ingredients.   On the side is a serving of sweet potato fries sprinkled with herbs from the garden.   It is a meal that is simple, casual and readily enjoyable.

Each wine should be enjoyed on its merits.   Not all wines are created equal, but not every wine should require being paired with lobster or filet mignon.   This is the beauty of California wine.  It is made and embraced with the intention that it will uniquely find its matching cuisine.   With all of the various produce and nuts being grown in California, the possibilities are endless and there is room for all.