September in Napa Valley marks the start of harvest.   Not all grapes are harvested at the same time as different varietals ripen at various stages.  Similarly, depending on where you are in Napa Valley, its varying geography and microclimates determine ripening.   Even those with backyard gardens are harvesting vegetables such as heirloom tomatoes.  

If one is lucky enough, he or she will grow several different types of heirloom tomatoes.   They vary in acidity and sweetness and representing a rainbow of colors, these delicious fruits are akin to a harvest fanfare in Northern California.

Given the acidity of tomatoes, wine pairing may initially seem daunting.   Yet, depending on the type of heirloom tomato selected and its specific blend of acidity, the possibilities for wine pairing are actually endless.   As heirloom tomatoes are presently seasonal here, for the next few weeks each featured article will demonstrate pairing versatility.

Since the 1980’s, Chardonnay has been California’s darling of white wine varietals.   Historically the grape has been exposed to oak barreling for prolonged periods such that the wine emerges heavily oaked and overly buttery.   In recent years Napa Valley vintners have been exploring different styles of making Chardonnay and venturing into the world of unoaked chardonnays which are an open true expression of the grapes flavor profile.   Yet some of the most elegant Chardonnays are those wines which are carefully barrel aged with some exposure to oak such that it appears as a kiss, a flutter or even a satin ribbon of expression on one’s palate.  

Bremer Family Winery (“Bremer”) located on Howell Mountain in Napa Valley demonstrates vintage after vintage its artful touch with making Chardonnay.  Bremer itself sits in an original stone winery and cellar which was built in 1891 into the side of Howell Mountain.   With such an intimate proximity to the soil in which many of the winery’s grapes are grown, it is no surprise that Bremer has a strong commitment to make wines that the owners not only love to drink but are a true expression of the land.   Opening a bottle of Bremer’s Chardonnay, it is clear that the winery has not compromised anything and you are about the reap the benefits.

The winery describes its Chardonnay as tropical but having enjoyed several vintages, each release I find distinct delicious rich round flavors of spiced fuji apple complemented by aromas of honeysuckle.   The chardonnay grape is nevertheless readily recognizable for its natural attributes but is given a glamorous edge with its oaken notes.   The wine’s oak profile is not overwhelming, but casually present to provide a subtle, yet sophisticated smooth notion that this should belong with a dinner that offers something special and unique.  As the wine crosses the palate, it offers an eloquent expression of fruit, spice and texture.   Bremer’s Chardonnay hints that the possibilities for the evening are endless and without a doubt, this perfectly balanced wine is one smooth operator.

Looking at a yet to ripen White Beauty Heirloom Tomato and a blushing Brandywine Heirloom Tomato, there sit a unique possibility of sugar and acidity to pair with this week’s wine:

• Fried Heirloom Tomatoes for Sophisticated Grown-Ups

Whether the tomatoes be green or firm red tomatoes (the red tomatoes adding color to a plate for serving and showing off to guests), frying tomatoes gives them a warm comfort food feel with a varied flavor profile of sweet to spicy.   Similarly using different types of heirloom tomatoes in a dish such as this will ensure depth in flavor profile as the tomatoes can be almost dessert-like or rich and robust.

First the tomato slices are coated in spiced buttermilk (Spanish paprika, cumin and fresh cracked black pepper) and then dredged in a mixture of polenta and flour.  This is an intentional spice profile to pair with Bremer’s Chardonnay.   Once fried, tomato slices are adorned in sweet microgreens, herbed chevré and dressed with a marjoram and lemon thyme vinaigrette.   While the vinaigrette is herb themed, other flavors such as shallot, red wine vinegar, black raspberry vinegar, Dijon mustard, garlic, ginger and lemon juice sit within to create a dynamic dressing.

Similarly, using freshly picked herbs from the garden are certain to charm with their incredible natural perfume.  Both marjoram and lemon thyme are aromatically romantic.  When the dish is paired with the wine, the creaminess of the herbed chevré reaches for the balanced richness of Bremer’s Chardonnay.  At the same time, the Chardonnay livens a bit with the herbs and spices of the dish.

Sharing a dish such as this with others is a wonderful seasonal precursor to a September evening meal. Without question, Bremer’s Chardonnay will sleekly transition from course to course and charm you as it goes.