Aug 24 2011

Summer Lovin’ Syrah Rosé

Published by at 12:05 am under Uncategorized

Summer lovin’, we all knows that it happens so fast.  Whether it is a summer vacation, your summer vegetable garden in full harvest or those longer summer days where the sun sets late in the evening, it all happens and goes by too fast.   This past week I hopped in my Jeep, put down the windows, dangled my arm out into the California sun and meandered my way down Highway 101, southbound for some summer fun.   A classic California road trip was had visiting various wine regions including Carmel Valley, Paso Robles, Edna Valley, Santa Ynez Valley, Ojai, Ventura County and finishing to tuck my toes into the warm sand of Malibu’s beaches.

It was a whirlwind romance of various coastal climates, different terroir  and unique varietals.   At the end of it all, with a warm summer sun shining above and coastal waves crashing ahead, there in Malibu a beautiful 2010 Syrah Rosé was introduced that manages to capture all of the romantic senses of summer in a bottle.

While Emilio Estevez and Sonja Magdevski of Casa Dumetz grow only Pinot Noir vines in their Malibu yard (see “Drink Local, Eat Local” published in April on this site), Sonja Magdevski is a savvy vintner and knows best where to source other varietals for their winemaking.   Establishing a relationship with the Tierra Alta Vineyard in Santa Barbara County, Sonja knows that she is guaranteed to procure quality juicy fruit from a unique steep vineyard in the Ballard Canyon.   While the grapes for Casa Dumetz’ other varietals are not estate grown, there is not the traditional risk of supply shortage sourcing from Tierra Alta Vineyard.   The owners of the vineyard are growers only and do not make wine.  Instead this large vineyard is managed by John Belfy of Buona Terra Farming.   So while other vineyards may source fruit from this particular vineyard, barring a disastrous growing season, there should be plenty of fruit to go around to adventurous vintners.   This also allows the opportunity for vintners to establish a committed relationship to the grapes that they wish to bottle.

Tierra Alta Vineyard was originally planted in the year 2000 and as previously mentioned is one of the steeper vineyards in Ballard Canyon.   Given that the vineyard is relatively young, the vines are going to be more inclined presently to produce juicier, fruit-forward grapes for wine.   Couple in the climate of this area of the Santa Ynez Valley with the vineyard’s physical location and slow ripening is ensured which enhances the development of flavors in the grape (which transition into the final bottled wine).  Also unique to this wine growing region (as opposed to Napa Valley) are the calcareous soils that these grape vines call home.

Calcareous soils are similar to that found in the Rhone region of France and thus for any Rhone varietal fanatics, Syrah grapes will vary drastically compared to that found in much of Napa Valley.   Sonja Magdevski takes her interest in Syrah one step further before bottling her 2010 Syrah Rosé and has sought out a specific clone of Syrah called, “Syrah Noir”.   Our favorite varietals often have many different clones and depending on which one is selected or how the clones are combined will affect our love or dislike for a single varietal bottling.   Casa Dumetz’ 2010 Syrah Rosé is created from the Syrah Noir clone that is grown in the Tierra Alta Vineyard and the result is a delicately, yet sophisticatedly, perfumed wine made in a dry rosé style with enough personality to reflect the vineyard’s jammy, juicy young fruit.

In the glass this 2010 Syrah Rosé reflects a deep pink hue with personality.   If you are fortunate enough to be enjoying this wine with a classic Southern California coastal sunset, you will find that the wine mirrors the dramatic colors that paint the evening sky.   Using a screw top cap as the closure for the wine ensures that its enchanting aromas are encapsulated effectively and that with each pour, the grape’s true aromatic personality of subtle melon, berries, sage and rhubarb will coyly linger in your glass.   Served chilled, the dry style of this Rosé is refreshing, slightly tart and sets forth a delicate layering of flavors such as raspberry, rhubarb, herbs and a subtle kiss of vanilla.   Whether you find yourself in your backyard at the end of the day in the setting sun or looking out over the coast, Casa Dumetz’ 2010 Syrah Rosé is the perfect companion for summer dreaming.

To capture some quintessential culinary elements of summer and regional local food pairing, this week’s menu hosts:

1)      Ginger Lime Cantaloupe Wrapped in Prosciutto with Fresh Garden Clipped Chives; and

2)     Kristin’s Summer Malibu Ahi Tacos.

Rosé wines naturally gravitate to pairings involving cantaloupe and prosciutto and this Syrah Rosé is no different.  The slight tartness found in the wine instinctively reaches for the juicy refreshing nature of fresh cantaloupe.  However, given that the Syrah grape is involved in this Rosé, this means that the wine can handle a little spice in its accompanying food pairing.   To liven up this classic cantaloupe pairing and make it ready for any backyard summer afternoon affair, the fruit is tossed in ginger, lime and a tiny sprinkle of sugar before being wrapped in prosciutto and tied with freshly clipped chives from the garden.   To serve, slices of dry aged jack cheese are placed upon the platter beneath the appetizer.

 

The cantaloupe is a festive pairing ready to kick off easy backyard entertaining and the 2010 Syrah Rosé is anything but a wallflower when paired alongside.   To contrast the natural juicy and tart aspects of the wine and the cantaloupe, dry aged jack cheese is nibbled on after.   When paired with the wine, the cheese blossoms in the mouth with a burst of creamy full flavor.   This is an aspect of the true art involved when pairing wine with food, as the wine is often intended to enhance the food.   Similarly food can accentuate a wine’s attributes and with symbiotic complements such as these, smiles natural spread across your guests’ faces.

While the appetizer is being explored, searing on a hot charcoal grill are ahi tuna steaks which have been briefly marinated in ginger, lime, sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper.   White corn tortillas are quickly flipped on the grill before being dressed with shredded red cabbage and a summer inspired fruit salsa to ultimately create “Kristin’s Summer Malibu Ahi Tacos”.   Using chunks of summer seasonal watermelon, julienned fuji apple, minced pink lady apple, Mexican spring onion, chopped garden fresh basil and cilantro, cumin and lime juice, a unique salsa is prepared that will mirror the texture of the chopped pieces of ahi tuna steak.  Tiny pieces of avocado are added before the entire ensemble is dressed lightly with a freshly prepared vinaigrette of Spanish smoked paprika, cumin and lime juice.

 

When the wine is paired with the fish tacos, the flavors of sage increase in the wine and summer fresh flavors of basil and cilantro tumble forth from the salsa to naturally reciprocate.   Knife skills in the kitchen cannot be emphasized enough.   Using different complimentary shapes and sizes of cut produce better the flavors in your creations.  Including basil with watermelon gives the salsa a certain depth if not lustfulness.   Combined with the wine, the ensembles is collectively juicy on the front of the palate with flavors reminiscent of a summer backyard edible garden.

Rosés should be carefree and easy drinking as summer afternoons and evenings are meant to be enjoyed slowly.   Casa Dumetz’ 2010 Syrah Rosé naturally fits this profile, but with a lower alcohol content of 12.9%, easy-going enjoyment is ensured alongside casual backyard summer cuisine.   And while summer and summer vacations may flit past too quickly, a bottle of this romantic rosé will perhaps encourage that summer dreaming to linger for a little bit longer.

*While Casa Dumetz wines (including the 2010 Syrah Rosé featured here) can be found in Malibu, if you are traveling the Central Coast you may also find it at Gather Wine Bar in Arroyo Grande in San Luis Obispo County.   San Luis Obispo County is known for its quintessential California lifestyle, highly rated wines and commitment to seasonal, sustainable California produce and agriculture.   Learn more about wines from this county on a monthly basis here on this site under “The SLO Vine”.   Cheers!

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