Jun 24 2009

Summertime “Good Libations”

Published by at 9:35 pm under Appetizers,Dessert Wines & Ports,Food,White Wine

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The mild cooler days of June are seemingly gone this week as our temperatures here in Napa Valley have quickly climbed into the 80’s and might well hit 90 degrees by the end of the week.   As the temperature increases, people are spending longer hours out in their backyards in the evening.    Perhaps you are gathering with friends or family.    This is the perfect weather to entertain, and with entertaining always come appetizers.    

In my backyard, I am sitting on the patio with the warm summer rays on my skin and a light coastal breeze in my hair.  The Beach Boys are playing over the stereo and those warm summer good feelings are all around.    As I look about the garden, I am determining what I can use to create some appetizers that are seasonal and perfect for casual entertaining.    And of course, I am summer dreamin’ about what “Good Libations” I can pair with what I serve.

Naturally I have the usual suspects among the white wine choices:    Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio.   But what if I wanted to save these dinner table regulars to pair with my main entrée?   What would I serve instead?    My suggestion may surprise you, but white grape based dessert wines (“Dessert Wines”) are a wonderful accompaniment to appetizers.   

But shouldn’t Dessert Wines only be served with dessert?  After all, they are referred to as Dessert Wines.  

That, in my opinion, is a misperception.   Dessert Wines can also be used as an “aperitif” (meaning, an alcoholic drink taken before a meal as an appetizer).      For example, last summer, I would come home from a long day of work, set my lounge chair and side table in the last fading rays of the evening sun, arrange a small plate of macadamia and cashew nuts, sliced nectarine with some mild cheese, pour a glass of Benessere’s Frizzante (their dessert wine), and nibble away… letting the stress and tribulations of the day ebb away as the sun sank into the Western horizon.   Benessere’s Frizzante is made from the grape muscat canelli or “muscato di canelli” (as it is known in Italy), which is one of the oldest grapes known to winemaking and recognized for the sweet bouquet that it produces.  Benessere’s Frizzante, while categorized as a Dessert Wine, does not overwhelm your palate with sugar.  Instead it refreshingly greets you with citrus notes and bright fruit flavors such as melon, cantaloupe and a hint of peach.   The wine is light and well-balanced and washes pleasantly across the palate.   It is a perfect prelude to your dinner on a summer evening.

Remember your parents telling you that you could not have dessert before dinner?    Those days are now guiltlessly over by using Dessert Wines as an aperitif to dinner.  

Looking at what I have from my own backyard and a nearby produce stand, I have decided to create three simple straight-forward seasonal appetizers which boast rich flavor without much manipulation or effort from me:  

  • Grilled Zucchini topped with home-made bruschetta and freshly grated parmesan cheese;
  • Cucumber slices topped with a home-made green onion dill spread and fresh vegetables; and
  • Grilled Fruit Skewers (consisting of nectarine, white nectarine and plum).

Putting these together, I already know that Benessere’s Frizzante will pair effortlessly.   But despite my casual nature, I think that my audience is ready to accelerate its knowledge of Dessert Wines from the classic muscat canelli grapes to the introduction of a different grape:   Gewürztraminer.    Gewürztraminer is another white wine grape that can be very aromatic on the nose and boast flavors of passion fruit and spice.    When turned into a Dessert Wine, however, this wine does not disappoint.    Over the hill, in Sonoma, the Mayo Family Winery produces an outstanding Late Harvest Gewürztraminer (which I recommend for any connoisseur’s collection).    The Late Harvest Gewürztraminer presents big aromas of ripe peaches on the nose.    And instead of a sugary, syrupy sensation (as sometimes found with other Dessert Wines), this Dessert Wine presents a tease of spice and feels like honey cascading across the palate.   Moreover, this wine’s alcohol content is also very low, coming in at ten percent (10%).  

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Of the simple appetizers that I put together, the grilled zucchini topped with bruschetta and freshly grated parmesan was the most pleasant surprise.    While making my bruschetta, I elected to use spring onions and sliced garlic.   Spring onions are naturally very sweet.  Since I sautéed the garlic first, it also became sweet in flavor.     Using ripe roma tomatoes and fresh basil from the garden, the bruschetta topping was a nice compliment to the Late Harvest Gewürztraminer.    Similarly, the cucumber slices appetizer that I prepared adds a bit of spice and tanginess which offsets the mild sweetness found in the wine.   Finally, pairing the grilled fruit skewers with the Late Harvest Gewurztraminer does not require much imagination.  As the fruit sits on a hot grill, the juices naturally caramelize thereby heating the fruit and providing a delightfully sweet finish to your aperitif before dinner begins.

Still want another challenge in the world of aperitifs?   Let’s think about Chenin Blanc.    Chenin Blanc is a white grape that dances the line between being paired with an actual meal versus being considered a Dessert Wine.   In the 1970’s it was hip to drink Chenin Blanc and the wine had a noticeable presence in Napa Valley.    Then, at some point in the 1980’s, it became unpopular and since then it is difficult to find a truly great Chenin Blanc in Napa Valley.    Goosecross Cellars (“Goosecross”) produces my favorite Chenin Blanc and I am of the opinion that this is one of their “stand out wines.”    Most Chenin Blancs are dry and lack much flavor.  What sets Goosecross’s Chenin Blanc apart from the rest in the field is that on the palate, it is loaded with big pear flavors, a hint of honeydew melon and soft notes of sugar.   There is a tiny hint of perfume on the nose and as the wine’s slightly sweet components caress off the palate, this Chenin Blanc becomes the perfect backyard casual aperitif.    This wine would pair beautifully with the appetizers that I prepared above, but it also could go effortlessly with a light-flavored cheese plate accompanied by cashews, strawberries, grilled plums or other fresh seasonal fruit.

So onward fellow connoisseurs… Explore Dessert Wines with creativity and an open mind.  Whip up your favorite appetizers and create your own backyard “happy hour.”   Most importantly:  do not forget to invite your friends!   Get ready for casual easy backyard entertaining, warm summer evenings and good, good, good… “good libations.”

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