Jul 05 2011

Cooling Off in Carneros

Published by at 10:58 pm under Fish,Food,Rosé,Salad,Sparkling Wine/Champagne,Vegetarian

The 4th of July holiday weekend brought hot, dry weather to Napa Valley.  Folks slowly motored up and down Highway 29, taking in the beauty of the valley itself and wandering into wineries on whim.   While the crowds filled houses known for its Cabernet Sauvignon or feisty Zinfandel, with the sun baking the valley floor I headed in an opposite direction, to the Carneros American Viticultural Area (“AVA”).  

The Carneros region of Napa Valley sits south and west of the traditional valley where most visitors spend the bulk of their days.   It is one of the cooler regions in Napa Valley and for that (among other qualities), it is recognized as an official designated AVA.   In the summer, while the sun may beat warmly from above, a gentle cool marine breeze blows inland naturally cooling the vines.   This natural air conditioner primes these vines to grow grapes such as Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Pinot Noir.   Often graced by the fog, these vines receive more natural moisture than vineyards up valley.

On Saturday, it was here that I found myself, lost in a sea of lush green vines.   Tiny grapes were apparent everywhere, a sight that reassured that a 2011 harvest will be underway.   Within a few months, indeed, this vineyard will be bustling with workers, clipping grapes.   Those grapes will then fill large bins of trucks and bounce happily along Highway 29 to some other Napa Valley destination to be made into wine.   Looking up at the pristine powder blue sky above, the sun beat into my face as a cool marine breeze whispered past and for now, it was a quintessential summer Carneros day.

Up the road sits the sparkling wine chateau, Domaine Carneros.    It is not to be missed, sitting majestically on a hilltop with a seemingly infinite number of stairs to climb to its terrace.   On a warm summer day, a glass of sparkling wine can easily be enjoyed.  With a holiday weekend in full swing, nothing would be more festive than some bubbles and more specifically, a Brut Rosé.

Domaine Carneros annually releases its “Cuveé de la Pompadour,” commonly known as the winery’s Brut Rosé.   With only twelve percent (12%) alcohol, this sparkling wine also easily fits into casual summer enjoyment.   Filling the glass, tiny bubbles work their way to the top.  Aromas of sweet cherries and raspberries faintly pass the nose before the mouth is greeted by gently sweet mirroring flavors coupled with a hint of lemon zest and a bit of summer rhubarb.

In reality, I love to pair this sparkling wine with something as simple as salted buttered popcorn.   In November, I have been known to open a bottle of this in the kitchen on a Thanksgiving Day afternoon for whoever graciously kept me company as I cooked or even dared to lend a helping hand.   But it is summer and no less is it the 4th of July weekend.   It is a different holiday, so there is no reason why a menu should be any less festive:

1)      Celebration of Summer Scallop Salad dressed with Beurre Blanc Rosé Sauce; and

2)     Raspberry Champagne Roasted Cauliflower with Parmesan Cheese.

On a three-day summer holiday weekend, it is hard to not find foods on a grill and slathered with a sugary marinade, if not overall over-the-top processed.   While those foods have a time and a place, by the time that one is attending their third barbeque of the weekend it is a bit much.   Yet taking a break from the traditional July 4th fare does not mean that food cannot be flavorful, creative and capture the essence of summer.

Heirloom tomatoes, which are known for their funky appearance and varied colors, combine in an array of slices to capture varying flavors of sweet, classic and robust.   Pickling cucumbers have come into season and when they are thinly sliced, they are sweet and delicate.   This combination placed atop a bed of sweet red and green lettuces harvested from the garden is lightly dressed in raspberry champagne shallot vinaigrette to turn delicious.    

Scallops are sliced cross-wise to become what many begrudgingly acknowledge as “skinny scallops”.   When creating a plated salad, however, this thinner version of the traditional scallop is welcomed as it is dimensionally compatible with the other underlying vegetables, spreads the flavor across the plate and is overall texturally more desirable.   To ready the scallops, they are seasoned with sea salt and fresh ground black pepper before being quickly and gently seared in a light butter and olive oil mixture.   After they are placed on top of the salad, a Beurre Blanc Rosé Sauce (using the featured sparkling wine, butter and minced shallots) emerges from the stove top to be drizzled over the scallops.   A final sprinkling of garden fresh chopped chives decorates a gorgeous tribute to what a summer garden can yield.

Cauliflower is also presently in season and when oven roasted, its rich flavor is enhanced.  Tossed in olive oil and lemon thyme, the cauliflower pieces are roasted and briefly removed from the oven to be tossed in raspberry champagne vinegar.   Placed back onto the baking tray the pieces are sprinkled with freshly grated Parmesan cheese before returning to the oven.    Once roasted, the cauliflower is served alongside in tender, delicate butter lettuce (which is known for its sweet flavor and velvety and sensual texture).

While the roasted cauliflower has a delicious roasted cheesy and potato-like flavor, its flavor profile is flirtatiously brightened by the raspberry champagne vinegar.   When taken with the wine, this hint of bright flavor accentuates the berries tasted in the Brut Rosé.   Similarly the scallop is no stranger to sparkling wine and using some of the wine to create the butter-shallot sauce gives the meal a festive summer appeal.

Whether you harvest produce from your backyard garden or your local produce stand, your taste buds will enliven and celebrate a vibrant sensuality that only summer seasonal vegetables can offer.    As a wide array of fruits and vegetables come into season like a never-ending parade, it reminds one of the terrific bounty that the humble dirt beneath our soles can yield.

Meanwhile, there is still a quiet summer peace in the Carneros AVA, on the back roads away from the traffic of the tourists.   It is here that you can smell the dust of the earth, the grapes growing on the vines, and where eucalyptus, lavender and rosemary gently perfume the air.   It also reminds one readily that the wineries are farmers.   And as farmers, these vintners work intimately with the microclimates that lie within Napa Valley.  For those in the Carneros AVA, there is much to be harvested.

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