Oct 20 2010

Beautiful Bordeaux Blend

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With autumn in full swing, colorful leaves begin to adorn grape vines in Napa Valley and in the rest of the country paint the treetops of skylines to only fall poetically to the ground.   Autumn’s palette fills with orange, yellow, burgundy red, crimson red and brown to create warm hues on leaves previously kissed by summer sun.   Kitchens begin to fill with a medley of warm smells ranging from apples, spices, squash to root vegetables.   The oven is heated and cooking begins its seasonal transfer from the grill.

As a medley of colors, aromas and flavors characterize autumn, it is only fitting that this week’s featured wine be of similar vein.   The term “Bordeaux Blend” is used to define a wine that consists of two or more grape varietals with origins from the Bordeaux region of France.  Most commonly in Napa Valley, a Bordeaux Blend is a red wine; however, Bordeaux Blends can also exist as a white wine.   If the Bordeaux Blend consists of white grape varieties it will contain Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle and/or Sémillon.   If the Bordeaux Blend is a red wine, it will consist of some combination of two or more of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Gros Verdot, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot and/or St. Macaire varietals.   If these blends meet certain requirements, in the United States they will be further classified as a “Meritage” (for the rules associated therewith, please reference past article titled, “The Merits of Meritage”).

Girard Winery, whose tasting room is located in Yountville, annually crafts a red Bordeaux Blend fittingly titled, “Artistry”.   Artistry is Girard Winery’s (“Girard”) proprietary red wine which varies slightly in grape constitution each year in order to reflect consistency in quality.    Anyone who is familiar with this wine will readily attest that upon tasting prior and future vintages that Girard has been successful in establishing consistency in quality, texture and flavor year after year.   While Girard has recently released its 2008 Artistry vintage, I have elected this week to feature the 2006 vintage which has benefited from four years of bottle aging and was highly rated upon its release by The Wine Spectator and The Wine Enthusiast (each awarding the 2006 Artistry with 92 points).   The 2006 Artistry has been previously hailed as the winery’s perhaps best ever vintage despite the fact that the wine consistently ranges from “very good” to “excellent”.  

But what is in the 2006 Artistry?

Consistently, each year the Artistry wine is a Bordeaux Blend of red grapes.   The varietals and percentages may vary from year to year, but it is very important to remember that the consistency of quality and style will remain the same.   For the making of the 2006 Artistry, Girard included:  59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, 13% Petit Verdot, 8% Malbec and 7% Merlot.    All fruit hails from Napa Valley, specifically from Oakville, Yountville and St. Helena (using both valley floor and hillside vineyards).  Girard takes such care with this proprietary blend that it hand sorts its fruit and subjects the fruit to an extended maceration to ensure that the tannins are refined before tucking it away to age for 22 months in French Oak.   When the wine emerges for release, it is readily accessible and approachable to most palates, but when it is set aside for additional years of bottle aging the consumer must be prepared for a seductive treat as complex layers reveal themselves.

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Pouring the 2006 Artistry into the glass, it still reflects a gorgeous dark ruby wine which will pick up dining lights and reflect that ruby color onto a dark placemat.   The bouquet intrigues the nose with deliciously entertaining nuances of anise, raspberry, plum, pipe tobacco, cigar box and a soft note of vanilla lending to images of sugar cookies.   Knowing that the bouquet provides all of the necessary teasers for a beautifully crafted Bordeaux Blend, the palate is readily prepared for delicious, voluptuous round flavors of black plum, blackberry, currants, clove spice, white pepper, roasted black cherry and further savors a finish of soft vanilla cherry and cocoa that lingers elegantly on the palate.

Lingering with a glass of this beautiful artfully crafted wine, it is apparent why this blend is perhaps fittingly suited to autumnal cuisine as its flavors are soft, yet complex and can pair well with a variety of spices, herbs, lingering vegetables in the garden and beef.   Taking this into account (and given that it is a red Bordeaux Blend), it was only appropriate that this week’s menu include:

·         Kristin’s Family Beef Burgundy Recipe Served With Crusty Baked French Bread

Typically, I am not a fan of pot roasts or casseroles or heavy meat-oriented fare.   However, Beef Burgundy can be made elegantly depending on the technique involved and the patience used to time the addition of ingredients to create complex layers of flavors.   In my family, there is a recipe which my father has passed down to me which has time and time again been tested and impressed even my father’s cousin who at one time was the executive responsible for determining all restaurants and cuisine for Disney.   Reviewing my father’s recipe, I could see opportunity to improve certain aspects to knock the socks off my invited dining crowd.    Without disclosing the actual recipe, I will give a few hints as some of its contents to demonstrate why this is not the average Beef Burgundy. 

Like most Beef Burgundy’s, wine is used to cook our carefully tenderized and cut chunks of sirloin tip roast.   Most people think that any red wine will do but as prior articles have shown, the wine used generally ties the meal closely to the wine paired.   In this case, there is no way that I am going to sacrifice any of the 2006 Artistry to the dish, but for a few dollars, I can find at the wine shop an inexpensive bottle of wine that has similar characteristics (or a few key flavors) to nurture the dish.   With one of Mondavi’s wines in hand for cooking, the beef is also gently seared first in the remainder drippings of cooked applewood bacon.   Again, stepping away from traditional bacon and seeking that additional bit of flavor, the applewood smoked bacon adds another layer of flavor.   Seasoned with garden picked thyme (which infuses flavor ten times better than dried), crushed garlic, and cloves, the dish is braised for hours in the oven, while at various stages cippolini onions, mushrooms, peas and carrots pulled from the garden are added.   Using fresh ingredients is always preferable and when they can come from your own backyard, they truly do not get any fresher.

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Braised in the oven, the dish creates a rich thick gravy which is meant to be sopped up by a baked crusty French Bread.

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Sweet peas dance with clove spices, while thyme and roasted cippolini onions add depth.   Carrots grown in one’s own garden will lend a unique sweetness to any dish that cannot be mirrored by produce found at the local store.  

While in appearance it is dark, this hearty meal is actually brightened by Girard’s Bordeaux Blend, the 2006 Artistry.   The cherry notes found in the wine readily embrace the sweetness contributed by the roasted carrots, cippolini onions and peas.   The earthiness that is exuded by the mushrooms enhances the wine’s intoxicatingly masculine aromas of pipe tobacco and cigar box.

Warm contentment soothes the palate and stomach as autumn evenings grow colder and early winter rainstorms coast into Napa Valley.   It is a meal such as this, when paired with an artfully crafted Bordeaux Blend, which causes a guest to sit inside without remorse and happily listen to autumn night winds.   Cue up a toasty roaring fire as the last of Girard’s 2006 Artistry swirls in your glass and the picture is complete.

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