Aug 11 2010

The Return of Pinot Grigio

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Coasting into the second week of August, many find themselves making a “Summer Bucket List” filled with things and activities that seemingly must be done before summer ends.   There is one wine in Napa Valley that quintessentially captures the essence of summer and for me, it would be remiss to not feature it:  Benessere Vineyards’ (“Benessere”) Pinot Grigio.

For those who have been following over the course of the last year, you will realize that I did feature this wine last summer.    Typically I feature a different wine every week.    While there is not a shortage of varietals in Napa Valley, there are few wineries that make a Pinot Grigio which consistently exceeds expectations and amazes the palate per pour.   In all fairness, Pinot Grigio is not a varietal that is planted widely throughout California.   Instead there are small plantings of the grape in Napa Valley (primarily in the Carneros American Viticultural Area) and also in Monterrey.    Provided that you are familiar with the geography of each of these locations, you will readily recognize that each area experiences cooler temperatures and is also blessed with cool oceanic fog.   These conditions produce idyllic Pinot Grigio grapes capable of producing a favorite summer wine able to grace any table or entertain any setting.

There are characteristics about Benessere’s Pinot Grigio which make it stand out from other offerings in Napa Valley.   Often the acidity in a Pinot Grigio can be off which can cause that urge to “pucker” when tasting this varietal.   Year after year, Benessere produces a Pinot Grigio which offers the perfect balance of acidity which has convinced countless white wine doubters to eagerly embrace a glass of the winery’s varietal.

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Pouring the wine into the glass, the nose is entranced by lovely tropical notes and white peach, jasmine and lilting honeysuckle.   On the palate, the acidity is in balance, the wine is crisp and refreshing while flavors of mango, peach, melon and pineapple tumble forth like a cornucopia of goodness.   While the wine may sound like a sweet tooth’s delight, the sugar content is in check and instead that crisp light acidity balances otherwise sweet fruit from overwhelming the palate.

Given the terrific balance of acidity and the fresh tropical fruit flavors in the wine, this week’s menu is designed to show off the wine’s versatility with some culinary creativity:

1)      Californian-Asian Cucumber Salad; and

2)     Creole Tilapia Atop Cherry Tomato Infused Creole Brown Rice.

The Californian-Asian Cucumber Salad is a vibrant medley of spice, heat, cool yet sweet flavors.   Pickling cucumbers are still being abundantly harvested from the garden, along with chives, cilantro and chocolate mint.   Rather than travel the typical path of using rice vinegar, I elected to use a Raspberry Champagne Vinegar from a winery in Sonoma.   Champagne Vinegar is breathtakingly light and with the addition of a raspberry flavor, it is bouncy and lively.   Taken together with Benessere’s Pinot Grigio, the dish pairs beautifully and incorporates the tropical fruit notes of the wine.

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Creating a Creole Tilapia is quick and simple.   It can be made either on the grill in a roasting pan or in the oven.   Tilapia is a light buttery white fish and in this dish it meets Cajun spiced cherry tomatoes and green pepper picked fresh from the garden.   Placed atop a brown rice cooked in the juice of Sungold and Sweet Baby Girl cherry tomatoes with a dash of Old Bay Seasoning, creates a light and flavorful dish that will not be overwhelmed by the selected wine.

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Enjoying the Creole Tilapia with Benessere’s Pinot Grigio is a match made in heaven.   The wine’s tropical notes and flavors of melon are delicately sweet and easily embrace the sweetness of the cherry tomatoes.

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Singing praises for Benessere’s Pinot Grigio is easy to do and if you have not opened a bottle yet this summer, August is the time to hurry up and do so.    Chase those fading rays of summer evening sun, reflect on the months that have sped by all too quickly and with your wine glass in hand, enjoy delicious, easy-going, tropical summer kisses on a warm August evening.

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