Zinfandel, long known as California’s red wine grape jewel, is synonymous with barbeque as barbeque is to summer dining.   As August wrapped up this week and Labor Day looms immediately ahead, there is no better tribute than firing up the charcoal grill and pulling a bottle of California’s classic red wine.

As cliché as a glass of Zinfandel with barbeque may seem, it is still a classic pairing that it should qualify as tradition with Labor Day.   By no means, however, does the pairing have to be mediocre and not only can the Zinfandel selected be exotic but equally the food pairing can impress the palate of guests to make the close of summer one to remember.

While often confused that Zinfandel has Italian origins due to its similarity to Primitivo, DNA studies have linked Zinfandel to an obscure grape from Croatia called Crljenak Kastelanski.  Regardless its origins, aside from the United States, Zinfandel is not widely grown and rightly is assumed to be a California red wine grape.   Zinfandel (as discussed last summer in “Is it a Sin to Love Zin?” on the web site) comes in varying styles of bottling with young fruit-forward styles, to some showing great pepper notes, others smooth as silk due to aged vines and yet others powering forward with unique style due to the blending of a different varietal.   Depending on the vintner’s style and preference, it is possible to find a Zinfandel made which has complexity, structure, depth and longevity to compare with the sophistication of many Cabernet Sauvignon wines.

Caymus Vineyards (“Caymus”), widely recognized for its aptitude with Cabernet Sauvignon, impresses its winery visitors with tastings of its Zinfandel.   Often thought of as a winery operating under the philosophy of “one wine, one label”, the winery does bottle Zinfandel for purchase at the winery.   The Wagner family has long produced Zinfandel for their enjoyment and after experiencing a taste of it, it is easy to understand why.

The first time I was introduced to Caymus’ Zinfandel, I was so enthralled with the wine’s nose that I could not begin to taste it for a good ten minutes.   If it is possible to have a love affair with the bouquet of a wine, Caymus’ 2006 Zinfandel is the beguiling culprit as its nose is just too good to break away from.  

Knowing in advance what awaited in a glass of Caymus’ 2006 Zinfandel, it was easy to take some time with the wine in order to thoroughly enjoy it in all of its stages.   Pouring the wine into the glass, the wine is a rich dark plum color yet when held to the light, jewel-toned ruby notes can be admired.   Brushing the nose past the rim of the wine glass, the wine’s bewitching bouquet begins its seduction.   Met with gorgeous aromas of cigar box, dust of the earth, clove, allspice, raspberry and a tease of black licorice, it is understandable if the wine captures your nose with its romantic spell.   As the wine tumbles back, the palate is met with undulating rich warm waves of plum accompanied by a full-on continuing charge of the wine’s aromas.    As the wine finishes leaving faint aromas of cedar, the palate savors notes of juicy black cherries with a hint of freshly picked blueberries.   Of surprise to most connoisseurs, Caymus blends a bit of Petite Sirah into its Zinfandel.   Characterized by a lovely acidity, the wine also presents finely grained tannins and structure.   Caymus’ 2006 Zinfandel levels the palate with class, complexity and raw seduction.   Purely a masculine wine, it is not so overpowering as to shy away the palate of the gentler sex.

Pulling myself back to culinary reality, at first I was concerned that perhaps I had met a wine that I could not do justice with my recipes.  And frankly, that still may be the case as each sip of this powerhouse wine renews a genuine enduring love affair.   In my bag of culinary tricks, I knew that I had little that could truly measure up to the caliber of this wine, however, I did have a unique sauce which is enough of a savory powerhouse in its own merit that it influenced this week’s menu:

1)      Blueberry-Chipotle Barbequed Baby Back Ribs; and

2)     Roasted Butternut Squash-Potato Skewers.

With a Blueberry-Chipotle Barbeque Sauce, sweet meets seductive smoky spice.   The acidity in the wine pairs well with the light acidity of the sauce and the robust blueberries coax forward the Petite Sirah that is blended into the Zinfandel.  Choosing to use meatier baby back ribs is purposeful since the wine is “substance”; it attracts its like kind.  Slow-cooked on a covered charcoal grill on the back deck, the ribs create a lovely smoked aroma to tantalize the senses while sipping the wine.

Putting together skewers loaded with two types of potatoes and cubes of butternut squash ripe from my garden, is a pleasant palate pleaser to accompany the rich, smoky notes of the Blueberry-Chipotle Barbequed Baby Back Ribs.   Seasoned with light olive oil, sea salt, freshly ground black pepper and thyme picked from the garden, the mix is like a loving caress of soft, sweet earthy flavors and textures so as to not interrupt the wine from taking full center stage.  When tasted with the wine, the Roasted Butternut Squash and Potatoes accentuate the gentle blueberry notes in the wine.

When guests sit down to a creative wine and food pairing, I am accustomed to a quiet hush falling over the table as delights are savored.   But even as the hostess, Caymus’ 2006 Zinfandel still manages to render me speechless with each smell and taste that the palate draws.  A fitting end to proverbial summer is Caymus’ 2006 Zinfandel.   As coy as the wine’s nose may be, the wine itself is not a fickle infatuation as it is powered with surprising substance and a lingering finish that is poetically suited to the final cataloguing of summer memories.

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As summer winds down and fall waits patiently around the corner, last “hurrahs” are sought in the final full week of August.   People push to find time to entertain outdoors and grasp at the final elements of summer to savor until next year.   It seems this summer has passed faster than others past and this week in order to put a proverbial exclamation point on the end of a favorite season, a much-loved bottle of Bubbles is opened. 

As prior archived articles have discussed, “Bubbles” is the fond casual term for sparkling wine in the United States (which is not allowed to be officially referred to as “champagne” due to the geographic location where it is made).   Not all sparkling wines are alike and as introduced this past spring there are a variety of styles in which they are made, including “demi-sec”, which is described as sweet and contains 3.3 to 5 percent sugar (see my archived article “Break out the Bubbles for Budbreak” for further technical discussion).  In the world of sparkling wine, “demi-sec” (and the even sweeter “doux”) wines are known as the “dessert wines”.   But do not be fooled, these wines are not of the traditional sugary sweet characteristics that many associate with dessert wines.   Instead, it is the “demi-sec” wines which come across as exotic and often offer unique aromas, texture and flavoring.

Schramsberg Vineyards (“Schramsberg”), founded in 1862 and located in Napa Valley, is highly regarded for its sparkling wine.   A visit to the winery is enough to enchant anyone and it is not a bad life to spend a few moments sipping bubbles in the solitude of a candlelit cave.  Yet even without the ambience, it is the high quality of the varied flight of sparkling varietals that they produce which captivates the winery’s patrons.  Among the wines produced, Schramsberg does make an off-dry dessert-style wine called “Crémant Demi-sec” (“Crémant”).   Interestingly enough, it is this sparkling wine that is served more often at While House events and notably was served at President Ronald Reagan’s Second Inaugural Luncheon and President Clinton’s dinner for the prime minister of Canada.  

Learning about the composition of the Crémant prior to actually tasting the wine immediately provides some insight as to why it might be selected over other sparkling wines for White House affairs.   While many sparkling wines choose to make the Chardonnay grape as the foundation of their production, the Crémant’s composition consists of 88% Flora, 10% Chardonnay and 2% Gewürztraminer.   Flora?   Yes, Flora, a grape that many are unfamiliar with and yet another testament to the notion that no matter how much one knows about wine, there is always something new to learn or even a lesser known varietal to discover.

Flora is a unique California grape.   It was developed at UC Davis and is a cross of Sémillon and Gewürztraminer.   The combination of these two vines creates a powerhouse of a grape.   Gewürztraminer, which is known for its fruit and ever-present spice, meets the strength of Sémillon (which is often known for deep honeyed notes in other dessert wines).   Imagine a grape that is truly exotic in its nose, fruit-forwardness and spiced components coupled with the strong, smooth creamy and honeyed nature of Sémillon:  that vision is a reality known as the grape Flora. 

With Flora’s characteristics in mind, it is apparent why Schramsberg would name its demi-sec sparkling wine “Crémant” (which means “creamy”).    In a traditional sense, Crémant is also appropriate in the sense that it is used to refer to a sparkling wine which has a softer effervescence.

Opening a bottle of Schramsberg’s 2005 Crémant is a treat well worth waiting for and it is no wonder that this wine appears so frequently at White House State affairs.   The sparkling wine flows richly forth into the glass without the typical effervescence of other sparkling wines.   Not to be mistaken, this glass of sparkling is complete with tiny, ornate bubbles gently rising to the top.   Admiring the wine in the glass, it is easy on the eyes as the senses get lost in the wine’s deep golden color.   Taking a curious quick first sip, the Crémant meets expectations by matching the wine’s appearance and is like liquid gold on the palate.  Mesmerized by the texture, the wine is decadently smooth with just the right amount of weight as if a satin sheet is gliding across the palate.   Deep rich lumbering aromas of toasted oak and melted caramel flirt with a slight perfume of honeysuckle.  Waken by the nose of the wine, the palate presently picks up buttered popcorn, French vanilla, toast, a breath of lemon meringue and a hint of ginger to be entertained by a lingering finish of candied orange.   The sweetness in the wine is delicate and balanced by a subtle acidity, such that succulent rich flavors tumble across the palate.   Due to the exotic nature of the wine coupled with its fine crafted balance, the palate finds itself carefully savoring each flavor and hungrily searching for more.

While the wine looks presidential and on the palate certainly embosses a golden seal, the Crémant is still affordable in the realm of sparkling wine and can be guiltlessly paired.  However, not wishing to squander the decadence of this wine, an elegant dessert pairing is merited.   While many would race to pair crème brûlée, (which, admittedly, would  be heavenly), the 2005 Crémant merits a creative dessert pairing that will equally impress guests:

·         Lemon Blueberry Tiramisu

In creating a Lemon Blueberry Tiramisu, refreshing fresh lemon meets juicy seasonal blueberries as a “hail to the chief” of the final days of summer.   While the dessert itself looks fancy, it can easily and moreover casually be made to win over even the most cantankerous of guests.

In this multi-stage recipe, the ingredients are largely fresh lemon, blueberries, ladyfingers, mascarpone, lemon curd and two types of sugar.   While there is no vanilla in the recipe, when paired with the 2005 Crémant the wine adds that flavor to soothe any residual acidity in the dessert.   Nuances of toast or bread pudding in the wine accentuate the flavors from the ladyfingers in the tiramisu.  The citrus notes of the lemon in the tiramisu are compatible with the exotic fruit in the wine.  Despite being a demi-sec sparkling wine, the deep notes contributed by the Flora grape in the 2005 Crémant also tame the sugar in the tiramisu bringing forth perfect harmony in a dessert course.

Flavor wise, the Lemon Blueberry Tiramisu was frankly, insanely good.  The dessert is astounding decadent without overwhelming the palate.   While the wine was reverently sipped to take in its exotic rich nature, similarly the Lemon Blueberry Tiramisu was slowly savored as if wishing that neither would end.  A quiet hush fell over my guests and the consensus was that with the pairing of the 2005 Crémant, it was a dessert course of the caliber and worthy of a 5 star San Francisco restaurant while being served in the comfort and seclusion of a summery backyard.   Once assembled, the dessert has to refrigerate for six hours or longer; given the caliber, quality and overall “wow factor” of this dessert, however, if spending an afternoon to prepare Lemon Blueberry Tiramisu for guests is “wrong”, then I don’t wanna be “right”.

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Napa Valley, traditionally known for its warm climate for growing grapes, does house a few American Viticultural Areas (each an “AVA”) which are cooler in temperature and best-suited for growing grapes such as Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay.    Most commonly recognized is Los Carneros AVA located at the southern end of the valley, but just slightly north sits sleepy Oak Knoll AVA which is regarded to produce highly regarded Chardonnay grapes.

As you cruise through Napa Valley, from time to time you will see a small sign either indicating in which AVA a particular vineyard sits or even a sign that you are entering or leaving a certain AVA.   For those geography enthusiasts, the Oak Knoll AVA sits directly south of Yountville but north of Trancas Street in the town of Napa.  It extends as far west as the base of Mt. Veeder and as far east as the Silverado Trail.   This basically is the area that you first drive through as you are leaving the town of Napa to head up valley past the seemingly endless rows of grape vines.  

Located in the Oak Knoll AVA is the Laird Family Winery (“Laird”), on the western side of the valley off of Highway 29.    Laird’s physical location is in an ideal spot for growing terrific Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes.   If that is not enough to keep the winery occupied, Laird is also the largest landowner in the valley with its holdings strategically placed in several different AVAs.    In Napa Valley, it is said that Laird owns more land than any other winery and thereby is privy to some of the best grapes grown throughout the valley for the vinification of a number of varietals.   Couple in the fact that Laird also keeps its prices reasonable given the high quality of the wine produced, this winery is a gem of a discovery to anyone seeking a family owned winery.

A star example of the caliber of the wine that Laird is capable of producing is its 2006 Red Hen Ranch Chardonnay (“Red Hen Chardonnay”).    The Red Hen Ranch vineyard is located where the actual winery sits in the Oak Knoll AVA.   The vineyard is located thus on the western side of Napa Valley’s floor (which is known for its gravelly soil and terrific drainage).  Picking grapes from this vineyard allows Laird to produce a beautifully elegant estate wine with 100% Chardonnay grapes.

During production, Laird’s Red Hen Chardonnay experiences 100% malolactic fermentation, 100% barrel fermentation, of which 50% used is new French oak and ultimately spends a total of 15 months in the barrel during the aging process.   Often in California, when a wine has experienced oak exposure, it runs the risk of being over-oaked and becomes a big toasty butterball Chardonnay reminiscent of the 1980’s.   At Laird, the Red Hen Chardonnay will fool many to think that perhaps the wine is unoaked:  meaning, that the wine is that clean in taste and the actual Chardonnay grape can be experienced on the palate.   Pouring the wine into the glass, the nose is met with lovely nuances of pear, honeysuckle and melon with a slight perfume of toasted oak.     On the palate, there is a slight initial tickle of acidity that makes one think of green apple, yet that sensation is quickly whisked away by a smooth, juicy wine characterized by cantaloupe, ginger spice and pear.   This Chardonnay is not “flabby” by any means, but instead is pleasantly vibrant with a lovely balance and an elegant mouth feel.   And oak?  Not to disappoint traditional Chardonnay enthusiasts, the wine is characterized by the perfect kiss of oak so as to preserve the integrity of the grape.   I am not alone identifying this wine as a high quality find as The Wine Spectator has rated this wine with 93 points.

As the warm evening breeze brushes across the back deck and catches the top of the wine glass, the aromas of Napa Valley in late August come forth from the wine.   Whether it is the smell of ripening grapes or that slight alluvial dust in the wind in Napa, this wine merits a menu that perhaps appears simple, yet the combination of ingredients involved truly embody wine country cuisine:

1)      Grilled Marinated Stuffed Chicken Breast; and

2)     Grilled Marinated Glazed Carrots.

Prior to starting the chicken, a quick marinade involving chardonnay, garlic and other ingredients is put together.    Taking boneless, skinless chicken breasts, the poultry is then properly trimmed and prepared such that it can be stuffed.    In a sauté pan, minced garlic and shallot from the garden are heated, while adding fresh thyme (also from the garden) to heat.    Once finished, diced Carmelo heirloom tomato is added.   A thin layer of provolone cheese is added to the chicken breasts before placing the tomato mixture atop and sealing the chicken breasts shut.    Once sealed the chicken breasts are basted with the marinade and carefully set atop a charcoal grill.

To have alongside, carrots from the garden are thinly sliced and basted in the marinade and roasted atop the grill.

Plating the meal is misleading as it looks simple and not exciting.   However, the aromas from the plate are enticing.

Slicing open the chicken breast, inside is the savory filling.

Taking the wine with the chicken, the acidity of the tomatoes captures the light balanced acidity of the wine.   In doing so, it brings forth flavors in the wine akin to roasted apples with a brush of crème fraiche.   The flavors of the chardonnay laden marinade naturally tie to the wine and the similar combination of shallot, garlic and fresh thyme capture essential flavors found through much of traditional California wine country cuisine.   The carrots, which were gently caramelized in the marinade over the charcoal grill, are sweet yet sophisticated bringing forth unanticipated flavor and depth.

Whether you find yourself on a back deck in Napa proper or parked outdoors on a late August evening elsewhere, Laird’s Red Hen Chardonnay combined with a meal such as this captures the very essence of fresh vibrant flavors of Napa Valley.   Enjoying them, it is easy to find that without much effort memories of either a relaxing wine country vacation or a simple trip up valley can be recreated as the golden hues of that Chardonnay capture some of the last of summer’s evening light.

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Coasting into the second week of August, many find themselves making a “Summer Bucket List” filled with things and activities that seemingly must be done before summer ends.   There is one wine in Napa Valley that quintessentially captures the essence of summer and for me, it would be remiss to not feature it:  Benessere Vineyards’ (“Benessere”) Pinot Grigio.

For those who have been following over the course of the last year, you will realize that I did feature this wine last summer.    Typically I feature a different wine every week.    While there is not a shortage of varietals in Napa Valley, there are few wineries that make a Pinot Grigio which consistently exceeds expectations and amazes the palate per pour.   In all fairness, Pinot Grigio is not a varietal that is planted widely throughout California.   Instead there are small plantings of the grape in Napa Valley (primarily in the Carneros American Viticultural Area) and also in Monterrey.    Provided that you are familiar with the geography of each of these locations, you will readily recognize that each area experiences cooler temperatures and is also blessed with cool oceanic fog.   These conditions produce idyllic Pinot Grigio grapes capable of producing a favorite summer wine able to grace any table or entertain any setting.

There are characteristics about Benessere’s Pinot Grigio which make it stand out from other offerings in Napa Valley.   Often the acidity in a Pinot Grigio can be off which can cause that urge to “pucker” when tasting this varietal.   Year after year, Benessere produces a Pinot Grigio which offers the perfect balance of acidity which has convinced countless white wine doubters to eagerly embrace a glass of the winery’s varietal.

Pouring the wine into the glass, the nose is entranced by lovely tropical notes and white peach, jasmine and lilting honeysuckle.   On the palate, the acidity is in balance, the wine is crisp and refreshing while flavors of mango, peach, melon and pineapple tumble forth like a cornucopia of goodness.   While the wine may sound like a sweet tooth’s delight, the sugar content is in check and instead that crisp light acidity balances otherwise sweet fruit from overwhelming the palate.

Given the terrific balance of acidity and the fresh tropical fruit flavors in the wine, this week’s menu is designed to show off the wine’s versatility with some culinary creativity:

1)      Californian-Asian Cucumber Salad; and

2)     Creole Tilapia Atop Cherry Tomato Infused Creole Brown Rice.

The Californian-Asian Cucumber Salad is a vibrant medley of spice, heat, cool yet sweet flavors.   Pickling cucumbers are still being abundantly harvested from the garden, along with chives, cilantro and chocolate mint.   Rather than travel the typical path of using rice vinegar, I elected to use a Raspberry Champagne Vinegar from a winery in Sonoma.   Champagne Vinegar is breathtakingly light and with the addition of a raspberry flavor, it is bouncy and lively.   Taken together with Benessere’s Pinot Grigio, the dish pairs beautifully and incorporates the tropical fruit notes of the wine.

Creating a Creole Tilapia is quick and simple.   It can be made either on the grill in a roasting pan or in the oven.   Tilapia is a light buttery white fish and in this dish it meets Cajun spiced cherry tomatoes and green pepper picked fresh from the garden.   Placed atop a brown rice cooked in the juice of Sungold and Sweet Baby Girl cherry tomatoes with a dash of Old Bay Seasoning, creates a light and flavorful dish that will not be overwhelmed by the selected wine.

Enjoying the Creole Tilapia with Benessere’s Pinot Grigio is a match made in heaven.   The wine’s tropical notes and flavors of melon are delicately sweet and easily embrace the sweetness of the cherry tomatoes.

Singing praises for Benessere’s Pinot Grigio is easy to do and if you have not opened a bottle yet this summer, August is the time to hurry up and do so.    Chase those fading rays of summer evening sun, reflect on the months that have sped by all too quickly and with your wine glass in hand, enjoy delicious, easy-going, tropical summer kisses on a warm August evening.

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Warm weather draws people outdoors and from there, they are intuitively drawn to their grills.   Grill tops are adorned with a variety of creative fare from ripe garden vegetables, freshly picked corn, sizzling steaks and barbecued chicken to juicy stone fruit.  The wines which accompany these grilled delights vary across the varietal spectrum and while Zinfandels are readily selected to serve, Syrahs are often mistakenly sidelined.

Syrah wines, while increasingly produced in Napa Valley, are still often a misunderstood Rhône varietal by much of the public.   The age of the Syrah in question will determine a great deal about its characteristics.   For example, when a Syrah is young, it is often loaded with pepper and spice and characterized by strong tannins.   As the wine ages, however, maturation is kind and brings forth elements of sweet black fruit and smoky nuances.   In other words, a Syrah can be very different depending on when it is bottled and when it is subsequently opened.   For those who love to explore a wine and study how it develops, Syrah is a fun varietal.   Syrahs age quite nicely (if stored properly) and can easily age longer than ten years post-bottling.  

This week, to select a wine, I decided to pull a Syrah that I purchased in the fall of 2008.   Given that it has been intentionally stored in the spirit of “out of sight, out of mind,” memory had lapsed thinking that perhaps in late 2010 it might be time to check on that Syrah and consume it.   Searching through the collection, there still sat two bottles of Alpha Omega Winery’s (“Alpha Omega”) Syrah.   Pulling them from the shelves, low and behold, I discovered that they were bottled in 2007!   (This meaning, purchasing a Syrah in 2008 after only sitting in the bottle for one year would make the Syrah at the time of sale very young.)  Nevertheless, it is 2010, now approximately three years post-bottling, this Syrah should be an interesting discovery to see just where aging had taken it.

Opening Alpha Omega’s 2007 Syrah, the wine tumbles into the glass with coloring dark as night.  Looking at the rim of the wine in the glass, there is the slow ember hue of ruby.   Its nose has matured since I originally discovered it in the tasting room, as it proffers forward notes of blackberry, plum, allspice and anise, dressed with a slight lavender perfume.   Taking these aromas into account, I began dinner preparation and allowed the wine to decant in the glass for about 20 minutes before taking my first sip.   There was no disappointment as my palate experienced an elegantly smooth wine with now refined tannins with lovely notes of ripe red plum, thyme and soft caramel.

The wine’s characteristics on the palate were anticipated simply from personal experience, but the nose of the wine guided my determination for this week’s menu:

1)      Grilled PorkChop with a Cinnamon-Allspice Rub;

2)     Grilled Red and Black Plums with Honeyed Chevré; and

3)     Haricots Verts Almondine.

Putting together the seasoning rub for the grilled porkchops is highly driven by the bouquet of the wine paired.   Given that I did identify anise and allspice in the wine, I blended proportional amounts of cinnamon, allspice, clove, black peppercorn and salt to make a rub which would compliment dark fruit on the palate and yet continue to coax forth sultry spice elements in the wine.

August is a terrific time to find seasonal plums at the grocery store or the local produce stand.   Slicing them in half, brushing them with honey and then placing them face down on a hot grill will help soften the fruit and ebb away some of the tartness typically attributed to plums.   Finally, after discovering honeyed chevré last week, I am still enamored and thought that it would be the perfect touch to the grilled fruit.

Similarly, as summer lumbers forth, green beans are being harvested daily in large bunches from the garden.   Just as it has been a task to incorporate zucchini in prior meals, it is imperative to find an appropriate use for green beans.  Almonds are freshly sliced and sautéed in melted butter and then freshly blanched green beans are added to finish heating with a dash of salt to add a French twist to the meal in the spirit of traditional Haricots Verts Almondine.

Plated together and taken with the wine is a lovely combination of cinnamon, spice and everything nice.

Taking the grilled plums and honeyed chevré with the wine, it is simple to see that deep flavors of roasted plums would come forth in the Syrah as well.   Plums inherently pair well with porkchops and when taken together here, cinnamon, allspice and clove add an air of mystery and intrigue with the wine.   The 2007 Syrah, still being a young wine, does set forth a certain tartness but it is tempered when taken with the pork.   For any guest lamenting for more smoke in his or her Syrah, the Haricots Verts Almondine allows that quality to shine forth in the wine due to the earthy nature of the green beans and the flavor of the almonds.

The meal itself is a lovely way to enjoy the last full month of summer while taking advantage of seasonal produce and firing up the outdoor grill.   The addition of a Syrah adds an element of intrigue for as this 2007 Syrah is still young, it exhibits enough substantial characteristics to be elegantly enjoyed now or similarly hints as to where it might go with more aging.   That second bottle of this wine still sits in my collection, for it waits for that undetermined day to be revisited again and reveal what else it has gained from aging.

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Summer continues to perplex much of the nation.   The majority of the country continues to belabor under the stronghold of a crippling heat wave; yet California’s Bay Area and Napa Valley pass each day with cooler than average temperatures.   No matter the weather that you may be experiencing, Colombard can be delightful in any summer setting.

Colombard, or “French Colombard” as it is referred to in California, is a white wine that may sound exotic but is far more familiar to the palate than one may originally think.  In the 1970’s, when California discovered that French Colombard would grow well in its climate due to the grape’s ability to thrive in heat increased its plantings and continued to do so well throughout the 1980’s.    While the grape can be made into its own singular varietal, today it is commonly found in California as a blending grape in other white wine.   The grape itself produces a wine that is moderately dry, has well-balanced acidity and is often described as spicy with floral qualities.   Its qualities are not as showy as other white wines, yet nevertheless, if it is made well it can be the perfect dining companion during hot trying summer months.

In addition, if the grapes hail from old vines in addition to the wine later being made well, then the connoisseur’s palate is in for a poetic treat.  Casa Nuestra Winery (“Casa Nuestra”) in Napa Valley is fortunate to have old vines of French Colombard on its vineyard estate and to add a unique twist to this misperceived obscure grape, the winery produces it in the form of a late harvest dessert wine.   “Late Harvest” is a wine term which means (as it implies) that the grapes are picked towards the end of the harvest, when they are very ripe and have a high sugar content (with a minimum of 24˚ Brix).   This sugar content can be even higher if the grapes have been infected with a desirable fungus known as Botrytis Cinerea, which causes the grape to shrivel but in doing so concentrates the sugar (note, “Select Late Harvest” will have a minimum 28˚ Brix and “Special Select Late Harvest” will have a minimum 35˚ Brix).   The higher the sugar content, the more likely that the Late Harvest dessert wine in question will have a rich, deep honey flavor.   Again, Casa Nuestra’s dessert wine is a “Late Harvest French Colombard”, made from old vines located at the winery’s Oakville estate, which denotes that while the wine will have a higher Brix, it will not be characterized by an extremely honeyed quality.

Pouring the 2008 Late Harvest French Colombard into a small dessert wine glass, the nose is aromatically floral with notes of fresh citrus or nectarine blossoms.   While some white wines may have a floral bouquet reminiscent of spring, this floral nose is more in line with fruit tree blossoms and compatible with summer months.   Taking in the aromas, images of outdoor brunches on sunny lazy Sunday afternoons are invoked.   The palate is greeted by a sweet white wine that is not overly sugary, but instead akin to light white peach (or even apricot) nectar with gentle spiced notes offering subtle richness in flavor (yet devoid of blatant deep honeyed notes, as the wine should be).

Given that the wine offers a distinct sweetness, its food pairing must be taken into careful consideration.  The wine offers a lovely present balanced acidity which also factors into the planning of the pairing’s recipe.    As a result, this week’s menu hosts:

·        Strawberry-Pecan Chevré Pizza

Ginger kissed strawberry slices adorn a honeyed whole wheat pizza crust.   A delicious honeyed chevré embraces warm strawberries with bits of warm pecans as the pizza bakes.

Once ready to serve, slices of the Strawberry-Pecan Chevré Pizza are dressed with julienned slivers of garden-grown chocolate mint.

Is it dessert, is it brunch or is it just plain “good”?   The answer is simply, “all of the above” as the dish successfully proves to be light summer entertaining fare.    Romantically aromatic, the pizza surprises the taste buds of guests as its honeyed whole wheat pizza crust adds a bit of depth and an earthy quality with a dash of simple commonality to help keep the sugar content of the dish in check.   It is sweet, yet not overly sugary, as concentrated fruit flavors spill forth.  Fruit alone paired with the 2008 Late Harvest French Colombard might overpower the wine (unless it is a medley of certain melon), so in this respect, again, the honeyed whole wheat pizza crust adds an essential component.

This creative pairing surprises guests and delivers pleasant reactions.    It is a terrific showpiece dish which captures the beauty of summer strawberries yet demonstrates creative versatility in how they can be served.   Served alongside a pleasantly floral Late Harvest French Colombard satisfies a sweet tooth without saturating the palate.   Accompany this fare with summer weather (no matter the temperature) and all smile with a slice of summer splendor.

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In the 1940’s, a phone would ring on the outskirts of the town of Napa and on a party line, a voice would greet Aldo Biale with a seemingly simple request, “Please send produce, a dozen eggs and a black chicken.”    A delivery would then be made within Napa, with the items requested but hidden therein a bottle of zinfandel.    Today, as the Robert Biale Vineyards (“Biale”) holds out, “Black Chicken” was Aldo Biale’s secret code for requesting wine during a time when it was otherwise difficult to obtain.   While the Prohibition ended in December of 1933, many vineyards previously had been transplanted with table grapes or Alicante Bouschet, and many wineries had gone under.   While some California wineries survived Prohibition, many did not and wine that might have been previously made for home consumption might have tentatively been sold “under the radar”.   Since that time, the Biale Family continues to make quality Zinfandels (and now other varietals), but commercially and legally, and as a tribute to the winery’s origins, features one Zinfandel wine in particular aptly named, “Black Chicken Zinfandel”.

Biale’s zinfandels typically sell out quickly but when you are able to either share or obtain a bottle of the Black Chicken Zinfandel, you are in for quite a treat.   Everyone loves a little Napa folklore with their wine and, given the tale above, this is no exception.   What is the exception, however, is that lore or not this wine stands on its own for its extraordinary quality, structure, fruit and spice.

As previously mentioned, Biale’s Black Chicken Zinfandel typically sells out quickly but once you have your hands on a bottle, you will not want to let go and you will instantly recognize what all the fuss was about years ago.  Pouring the 2008 Black Chicken Zinfandel into the glass, the wine is rich in color like it is rich in history.  Before the nose even truly begins to explore the wine, it is evident that gorgeous deep dark aromas are slowly wafting forth.   Taking the first inhale of the bouquet, the imagination is enchanted with such rich diversity that one wonders where to begin descriptively and similarly where that description should end.   Characterized by aromas of earth, allspice, cola, black cherry, anise, raspberry, a wisp of cedar and a caress of leather, it is easy to get sensually lost in the nose of this wine.   Taking a sip of wine, the wine slips across the palate smooth like silk with a twist of cherry on the front followed by flavors of toasty oak, cassis and blackberry.   As the wine continues to open, a slight nuance of pipe tobacco saunters forth along with a semi-chewy note of roasted plum.

Even though the wine is young, it is extraordinarily rich in the mouth and earthy reflecting a true product of Napa soil.   Given these characteristics and summer produce continuing to abound in the garden, this week’s menu hosts:

1)      Baked Breaded Zucchini Sticks With a Homemade Tomato Sauce; and

2)     Parmesan Couscous With a Basil Heirloom Tomato Caprese Relish.

With plenty of zucchini ripening daily in the garden, constant creative ways to use it help it grace the table for enthusiastic guests.   To add some depth to the Breaded Zucchini Sticks, a combination of freshly grated Parmesan and Italian Cheese with Black Truffle is mixed with texturally light Panko Bread Crumbs.   Also abundant in the garden are now Heirloom Tomatoes Black from Tula and Carmello.   A combination of these varieties make a quick robust sauce to place beneath the zucchini sticks.

With the wine, the Italian Truffle Cheese accentuates the earthiness of the 2008 Black Chicken Zinfandel.   Similarly zucchini and tomatoes from the garden pair beautifully while paying homage to the agricultural nature of Napa Valley and the Italian heritage of Biale.   Enjoying each bite with the wine triggers visions of toiling on the land by day and enjoying its fruits by night.  

To accompany as either another side dish or to make a vegetarian meal, the Parmesan Couscous with a Basil Heirloom Tomato Caprese Relish counters the earthiness of the zucchini sticks by setting forth gentle rich, sweet flavors.  The sweet flavors can be attributed to a medley of Thai and opal basil, minced sweet onion from the garden and a combination of Sungold, Sweet Baby Girl and Green Zebra cherry tomatoes.  Chunks of fresh mozzarella add a subtle creaminess to the dish.  Selecting a fine grained couscous is a lighter summer alternative to pasta on warm nights.

When paired with the wine, the sweetness of the couscous and basil heirloom tomato caprese relish allows the zinfandel’s dark berry flavors to tumble forth, embracing the acidity of the tomatoes.   Similarly, the use of Thai basil in the dish mimics the wine’s notes of anise as that type of freshly grown basil has a similar black licorice smell.  The soft texture of the couscous shows off the wine’s silky nature.

Both dishes are so simple, yet so deliciously flavored that if you have not grown your own tomatoes yet, you will going forth.   The flavor of home-grown tomatoes is unparalled; even a local produce stand’s fare cannot quite parallel.   For vegetarians, this can be a delicious meal on its own; for those who cannot go with “meat”, slices of basil-black pepper grilled chicken would pair well alongside.

Finishing the meal and still lingering with the wine, each taste is like a bit of Napa heaven.   The 2008 Black Chicken Zinfandel truly embodies the character of the earth and soil.   While easily enjoyed this summer, admittedly I cannot wait to see where this will go in a year or two.   And while it will take marked discipline to set it aside, a further aged 2008 Black Chicken Zinfandel will mesmerize some fortuitous unsuspecting guest in the future.

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Proprietary Reds in Napa Valley arrive in varying grape combinations and consistencies.   Their tannins can be refined or firm and they can easily be overly influenced by the climate of each growing season.   As discussed earlier this year, some proprietary reds will actually meet the rigorous standards of Meritage, others will be called Claret and some will just simply be referred to as “proprietary red”.   Yet there is still another technical classification that merits special discussion and that is of the Super Tuscan Reds.  

Italy, like other countries, has its own system of set rules and regulations to categorize wine by quality, caliber and appellation:  denominazione di origine controllata (“DOC”).   In the 1980’s, a trend in red wines emerged and received international acclaim for their superlative quality, yet without an official DOC classification, these wines were left to be referred to merely as “table wine”.    Given the term “table wine” gave a distinction of commonality to otherwise uniquely special red wines, a new terminology emerged informally among Italian wine connoisseurs to distinguish these wines: “Super Tuscan”.   These wines could vary in consistency and combination.   For example, they might consist of a blend of red grapes which included perhaps unauthorized grapes (such as Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon), unapproved methods (size of barrel, type of oak, etc.), or an unauthorized consistency (which could even mean that the wine could consist of 100% of Sangiovese yet hail from an area that was not officially designated for such production).    These “Super Tuscans” broke the barriers of traditional regulation in Italian winemaking and did so most frequently reflecting extraordinarily high quality and attracting premium prices.   Today most “Super Tuscans” are still sold as table wine, but in the 1990’s, Italian authorities decided to extend a special DOC to certain individual Super Tuscan reds in recognition of the distinct, phenomenal quality that said wine presented.

Benessere Vineyards (“Benessere”), located in Napa Valley, prides itself for crafting Italian and Tuscan inspired wines.   Benessere is exceptionally regarded for its Sangiovese, yet also uniquely steps to the forefront of the wine community with a red Super Tuscan, which is aptly named, “Phenomenon”.

The 2005 Phenomenon creatively blends 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Sangiovese, 14% Merlot and 12% Syrah.   Given the ability of all of these grapes to grow well in Napa Valley, it is no surprise that the winery refers to the 2005 Phenomenon as its “Super Napan”.   2005 was a terrific year for most grapes in Napa Valley given that the year experienced an early bud break, followed by nurturing spring rains and then finished with a lingering summer to encourage a late harvest.

Pouring the wine into the glass, it is dark and brooding with glints of ruby jewel tones to meet the eye.   Characterized by a rich nose, the wine sets forth aromas of blackberry, spice, cloves, plum and leather, with a trace of dark chocolate.   Drinking well now, the palate experiences rich, round dark fruit of blackberry preserves and warmed plums, with gentle bits of olive, black cherries and spice.   Texturally the 2005 Phenomenon is smooth (which is a trademark of Benessere wines), has refined tannins and has just turned the corner in aging with hints of velvety sensations.   Add a finish that lingers and seduces, this truly is a majestic wine which at first blush merits fancy culinary fare yet also should not be feared to be enjoyed with something simpler or even alone.

Seeking to pay tribute to the creativity of the origin of Super Tuscans, I elected to veer away from the traditional big beef or steak pairing for the 2005 Phenomenon.   This week’s menu hosts:

·         Pesto Zucchini-Tomato Gratin Atop Basil Pesto Rotini

Given that it is mid-July, the vegetable garden is bursting with more zucchini than one readily knows how to use and heirloom tomatoes have quickly started to fully ripen.   One of the terrific joys of cooking in the summer is being able to walk into one’s vegetable garden, see what is available that evening, pick it right off the vine and head directly into the kitchen.   This week I am seemingly picking 3 zucchini and 3 slicing heirloom tomatoes a day.   Of unique surprise was a ripe Black fromTula heirloom tomato (known for perhaps being the ugliest of the heirlooms with a dark burgundy skin yet also recognized for being one of the most richly flavorful).   The Black from Tula heirloom tomatoes are frequently the last to ripen and often are not harvested until September.    Nevertheless, my plant wished to keep up with the neighboring Carmelo heirloom tomato plants and a combination of the two were picked for this week’s recipe.   Each offer their individual flavors but both are outstandingly rich which ultimately provides flavor dimension.  

Sautéed garlic is combined with chopped artichoke, fresh zucchini, freshly made basil pesto, a medley of varied basils and marjoram from the garden and is layered among slices of fresh mozzarella cheese and slices of heirloom tomatoes (among other ingredients).  Once baked, it is placed atop a Basil Pesto Whole Grain Rotini to create a filling Italian inspired summer meal.

Taken with the wine, the Basil Pesto does a dreamy dark seductive tango with the 2005 Phenomenon.   The sweet artichoke complements the wine’s mocha notes and softens its black fruit flavors.   The dish itself is savory and succulent given the lush flavorful freshly picked zucchini.   While filling, the meal is not overly heavy making it perfect for summer dining.

Whether your summer evenings are pleasantly cool or you retreat to a crisply air-conditioned dining room, the meal presents a terrific vegetarian way to creatively enjoy a well-crafted Super Tuscan red wine in otherwise warm summer months.

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As temperatures rise and seemingly hang naturally in the 90 degree range and heavy humidity holds much of the nation hostage, each has his or her own arsenal to combat the dog days of summer.   In the world of wine, however, when long heat waves take hold, red wine is left to cellar and instead crisp white wines take their place amidst rosés in the parade of appropriate summertime wines.

Sauvignon Blanc leads the charge with its characteristic crisp acidity and refreshing citrus notes for summer white wines.   My personal preference is to select a Sauvignon Blanc which masters the delicate dance with the grape’s natural acidity such that it offers refreshing citrus notes, a perfect dash of crispness and by no means will make me (or my guests) pucker.   Once found, a beautifully balanced wine is sure to entertain.

Hall winery (“Hall”), located in Napa Valley, offers its “T Bar T Ranch Sauvignon Blanc” which is of such caliber that when served chilled, delightfully refreshes yet shows a bit more depth.   The grapes for this wine actually are not grown in Napa Valley, but Alexander Valley in a vineyard known as T Bar T Ranch.   Alexander Valley, located in northern Sonoma County, is an American Viticultural Area (“AVA”) which experiences warmer temperatures as it is not as prone to fog as other parts of wine country.  The region is versatile enough due to its microclimates to grow a range of grapes well (from Sauvignon Blanc to Cabernet Sauvignon).  The T Bar T Ranch vineyard specifically has its own microclimates and is located in the eastern mountains of Sonoma County in the Alexander Valley AVA.  Due to its own varied microclimates and volcanic complex soil composition, T Bar T Ranch is recognized for producing highly concentrated fruit. 

Knowing that the fruit from this vineyard will be highly concentrated, it is a given that its Sauvignon Blanc will show off more complexity than the average competitor’s.   Pouring Hall’s T Bar T Ranch Sauvignon Blanc into the glass, it is aromatic of Meyer Lemon, citrus blossom and cucumber.   Taking a sip, the palate is greeted by delicious minerality, lemongrass, soft tropical fruit and a delicate whisper of honey and marzipan on the finish.   The wine is characterized by notable acidity but not such that it overwhelms the palate.

While Sauvignon Blanc pairs magnificently with much seafood (in particular, oysters), it also pairs famously with tomatoes picked fresh from the garden due to its infamous acidity.   My vegetable garden is thriving this summer and is presently loaded with heirloom cherry tomatoes, various cucumbers, onions and zucchini.   All of these are prolific producers and provide for healthy summer meal combinations which intuitively pair well with Sauvignon Blanc.   Taking this into consideration and the wish to create a refreshing light summer meal, this week’s menu hosts:

1)       Parmesan Flan With Heirloom Cherry Tomato-Cucumber Relish; and

2)     Grilled Garden Zucchini With Garlic-Shallot Sauté.

Last summer when I featured another favorite Sauvignon Blanc, I stuffed large heirloom tomatoes from the garden to serve as a main course with the wine.  Those same tomatoes are presently on the vine, but will ripen later this summer.   In the interim, however, I have a variety of heirloom cherry tomatoes ready for use which include, among others, Sungold and Sweet Baby Girl.    The cherry tomatoes from my garden have a delicious sweet robust flavor and each type has a different acidity level.   Slicing them and combining them with minced cucumber from the garden along with a medley of finely shredded basil leaves creates a simple flavorful relish to top light, healthy Parmesan Flan.   Texturally, the light fluffy nature of the flan is compatible with the light nature of the wine; while the acidity of the Heirloom Cherry Tomato-Cucumber Relish pairs perfectly with the acidity typical of Sauvignon Blanc.

Slicing zucchini from the garden and brushing them with a Meyer Lemon olive oil, the slices are then quickly and easily grilled to create a delicious side dish.   To give a bit of a zip to the dish, shallots from the garden are minced, to be combined with minced garlic and softly sautéed with freshly picked thyme.  The combination of flavors creates a degree of depth that is warm, semi-sweet and inviting.

Nearly all of the ingredients for this meal came directly from the vegetable garden, allowing summer seasonality to show off in its entire splendor.   While the recipes are relatively simple, the fresh flavors of vegetables and herbs from the garden take center stage to create a light yet vibrant display of flavors on the palate.

The meal and wine can easily be served as a starting course or as an afternoon lunch on a summer patio to entertain friends.   It is a blissful summer affair of light and fresh summer flavors which masquerade as gourmet on your guests’ palates while having ever simply been pulled moments before from the garden by your own hand.

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As June winds to an end, our days are seemingly longer accompanied by rays of light painting the sky with varied warm hues until long into the evening.   Aromas of ripening stone fruit and strawberries fill the air and the garden landscape is dotted with brightly colored blossoms of various vegetables yet to come.  Flowers continue to burst into bloom seeking the warmth of the summer sun and seemingly everywhere one turns, the eye is met with a vibrant diverse color palette only known to summer. 

It is intuitive to spend more time outdoors and laze on backyard patios while savoring these longer days with the picturesque ambience that abounds from nearly every backyard.   With warm temperatures and plenty of summer culinary fare literally at your fingertips, the time is ripe for casual entertaining or simple relaxation with Rosé.

Rosé, as it has been previously featured on the site, can be made a variety of ways and from any number of red wine grapes.   To show the diversity of the pink wine, in the past I have featured Rosé wines made from Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc and Syrah, among others.   Veering away from obscurity to standard tradition, Girard Winery (“Girard”) produces a Zinfandel Rosé which captures the very essence of this point in summer.

Typically a Zinfandel Rosé does not fit my palate as they can be overly sweet or reminiscent of a standard strawberry flavored hard candy.   Girard’s Zinfandel Rosé dashes these perceptions away as instead it is remarkably clean in the mouth, showing off as refreshing and crisp.   With only 2% residual sugar, the wine is able to emulate a certain dryness while still showing off a lush strawberry flavor with a hint of watermelon.  Its fruit nuances are attributed to the 90% of Girard’s Zinfandel grapes used (the juice of which is only allowed minimal contact with the grape skins prior to stainless steel tank fermentation).   Later Girard adds 4.5% of Syrah, 3% of their amazing Sauvignon Blanc and 2.5% of Grenache.  Aromatic of rose petals from the garden, this wine is ideally suited for late June.

It is no secret that Rosé is the proverbial “party wine”.   By nature it is easy drinking and a great sidekick to appetizers or picnics.    Do not let the casual nature of Rosé fool you, however.   It saddles up well to summer dinner salads and seasonal fruit.  Keeping this in mind, this week’s menu hosts:

1)      Basted Poppy Seed Grilled Chicken Summer Salad with Fresh Strawberries; and

2)     Fresh Apricot Pie.

Putting together the Basted Poppy Seed Grilled Chicken Summer Salad is a simple flavorful fix on warm summer evenings.    Always seeking an excuse to fire up the charcoal grill, chicken breasts are basted with a homemade semi-sweet poppy seed salad dressing while a variety of fresh colorful sweet lettuces, delicate spring onions and strawberries are collected from the garden.   Adding some sliced almonds, bits of chevré cheese and sliced mandarin oranges, the salad is quickly put together and adorned with slices of the basted grilled chicken.   Pouring the wine into the glass, it is easy to visual how this wine serves brilliantly alongside.

Taken together, the wine and the salad are like festive summer flavors entertaining the palate on a warm late June evening.   Serving the Rosé chilled is like experiencing refreshing crisp iced strawberries.

By the time dessert rolls around, typically there is no Rosé left.   It is light, refreshing and easy drinking.    This actually works well when serving a seasonal summer dessert like Fresh Apricot Pie.   The pie does not pair well with the wine.   But after a meal of sweet flavors, the blend of sweet and tart found in the Apricot Pie serves as the perfect palate cleanser while remaining loyal to current seasonal summer fruit.

Wrapping up a meal such as this on the back deck in the late evening summer rays leaves guests feeling closely paired with this specific point in summer.   Lost in the surroundings of vibrant varied colors and aromas of vegetables, flowers and fruit growing all around us, Girard’s Zinfandel Rosé romantically seems almost equally organic.

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